HF Double-13-Drawer Workbench

[Steevo]

I am contemplating building a welded steel workbench frame that I can drop a pair of HF 13-drawer cabinets into.
I have a question about the accessibility of the top drawer with an overhanging bench top.

If you look at the diagrams below, the frame is made of 3x3 square tube legs, 1-1/2" x 1/4" angle for the cross ledges that the boxes sit on, and the same angle at the top front and back of the legs to use as a support for the bench top.

In the second diagram, you can see the end view better, and the face of the box is 5-1/2" behind the front edge of the workbench.

Does this much overhang make access to the top drawer a problem? The drawer would be about 2.5" below the underside of the bench top, but at full extension, will the back of that drawer be inaccessible?

If I go down to 2" square legs, I could shave an inch of overhang off, getting it down to 4-1/2".

I could always weld the front lower angles between the uprights, pulling the boxes further forward, but some bench overhang is needed to avoid banging into the drawers with knees, etc.

Thoughts?
Opinions?
Flames?

 

[klhitman]

I really don't see a problem with the looks of it. You could drop the boxes down a little so the over hang doesn't obstruct any viewing of the back drawer.

I think jack olsen has done something like this but I am note sure

 

[Steevo]

I want them as high up under the bench as possible, so I can use the 4"+ of space underneath.

 

[onewaydave]

Two things. When you get them you can adjust the height of the top above the top drawer to allow for the required clearance.

Or, as I would do,

put the drawers on the non-working side, that way you have access to the drawers that do not disturb the work, the person holding that thingy that is about to fly across the room as you get the one tool you need to secure it and you can make the overhang sufficient to put a stool to sit on as you dring that adult beverage contemplating the impossible.

Oh, you have to push it up to the wall, never mind.

Dave.

 

[Steevo]

I guess I just have to buy a couple of boxes, and start experimenting.
I'll lay a sheet of plywood on top and overhang it by 5-1/2" to see how badly that hurts top drawer access, and if it is really bad, I'll try 4-1/2" to see if that is workable.
If neither work, and I need less than 4-1/2", then I have to change my design to move the angle-iron ledges in between the front legs until it works.

And yes Dave, they will be going against walls.

 

[Cryptic1911]

what's going underneath? could you just put the boxes on the bottom, and use that space at the top? obviously not if its a jack, but if its other stuff, maybe you could make a shelf to fit the stuff in

 

[Mike662]

I have that box, and I just measured it. Fully open, the top drawer is 15" from the inside front of the drawer to the frame of the box. So, your plan would eat up 5 1/2" of that 15". That might be a lot, since it's just over 1/3 of the depth of the drawer.

Also, from the top of the drawer to the top of the box measured 5 1/4" (you mentioned 5 1/2" in your post).

 

[Steevo]

I have that box, and I just measured it. Fully open, the top drawer is 15" from the inside front of the drawer to the frame of the box. So, your plan would eat up 5 1/2" of that 15". That might be a lot, since it's just over 1/3 of the depth of the drawer.

Also, from the top of the drawer to the top of the box measured 5 1/4" (you mentioned 5 1/2" in your post).

Excellent feedback, Mike662!
Thank you for that!

Just curious:
How close to the front of the cabinet is the drawer back, when fully open?

 

[Mike662]

When fully open, the drawer back is about 7/8" inside the face of the box, if that makes sense.

 

[Steevo]

When fully open, the drawer back is about 7/8" inside the face of the box, if that makes sense.

That is good info.

Thanks, Mike662!

 

[csp]

Do you already have the square tube? If not you could go to 2x2 with a thicker wall if the smaller size creates a strength issue.

What about bringing the front of the boxes flush to the front of the tube? Keep the bench top depth the same and you have storage space behind the boxes. Mine is setup kinda like that and I keep large drain pans, my creeper, etc. behind the box.

5.5" of overhand will definitely hurt access to the top drawer.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

It would change your design a bit, but I would make it so the cabinet face was flush with the outside of the legs. Your bench top would still overhang the same amount but you would gain the thickness of the leg back, resulting in easier access to the top drawer.

 

[John in OH]

Suggest that you use the second diagram (end view) of the bench in your original post and superimpose a sketch of the drawer in its open position using the info provided by Mike662. This way you can get a better visual of what the access will look like.

Second thought ... over the years of welding projects, I've found that I occasionally needed lots of "depth" under the bench top for the lower jaws of clamps being used to secure parts being welded or tacked. Your 5-1/2" dimension is probably adequate, but I'd hesitate to make it any less. Another thought ... maybe you could offset the top a couple of inches on the frame so that one overhang of the benchtop is, say 7" and the other (above the drawers) is, say 4"?

 

[Steevo]

It would change your design a bit, but I would make it so the cabinet face was flush with the outside of the legs. Your bench top would still overhang the same amount but you would gain the thickness of the leg back, resulting in easier access to the top drawer.

This is what I will probably do.
This drawing shows the legs reduced to 2x2 tubing, and the box brought forward between the legs to within 3/8" of the face of the legs.
That should reduce the workbench overhang to less than 3"

 

[Steevo]

Suggest that you use the second diagram (end view) of the bench in your original post and superimpose a sketch of the drawer in its open position using the info provided by Mike662. This way you can get a better visual of what the access will look like.

Second thought ... over the years of welding projects, I've found that I occasionally needed lots of "depth" under the bench top for the lower jaws of clamps being used to secure parts being welded or tacked. Your 5-1/2" dimension is probably adequate, but I'd hesitate to make it any less. Another thought ... maybe you could offset the top a couple of inches on the frame so that one overhang of the benchtop is, say 7" and the other (above the drawers) is, say 4"?

All good thoughts, and thanks for them, John.
These tool benches will be backed against walls, so only the front overhang will be accessible.

I will have a separate welding table elsewhere in the shop for clamping up projects though.

These benches will occupy a corner. See the upper right corner
of this floorplan:

 

[Jack Olsen]

My bench is about 30" deep (and 37" high). Instead of having the overhang blocking access to the top drawer (and also look kind of strange), I moved the tool box forward.

I store seldom-used stuff back behind the box.

 

[Steevo]

My bench is about 30" deep (and 37" high). Instead of having the overhang blocking access to the top drawer (and also look kind of strange), I moved the tool box forward.

I store seldom-used stuff back behind the box.

Thanks Jack.
Is your bench free-standing, or resting on top of the box?
If the top rests on the box, how is it supported? Just on the edges of the box, or did you shim up the flat area of the box top with plywood?
What is under the box for support? Did you set it directly on the floor, or are there feet where the wheels used to be?

 

[csp]

I can't answer for Jack, but my bench sits directly on top of my HF box. A 3/4" piece of MDF cut to the size of the box top within the lip is flush with the top edges of the lip.

I build a frame for my box to sit on mainly so the height is where I wanted it. I removed the casters and added adjustable feet where the casters used to be.

 

[ptschram]

My only thought is that it bugs the ever loving **** out of me to not be able to get to the very back of the drawers of some of my toolboxes. I'm sure that your set-up would drive me nuts!

 

[Jeff_R]

I really like the plans that you have for the boxes and the garage.

A thought for the garage layout... by having the boxes at 90 degrees to each other, you will not be able to open the drawers in the corner at the same time. May not be an issue, but I know in my kitchen it drives me nuts.

Also, do you happen to have the height of the box without the casters? I would like to eventually build something like that for my garage.

 

[Steevo]

I really like the plans that you have for the boxes and the garage.

A thought for the garage layout... by having the boxes at 90 degrees to each other, you will not be able to open the drawers in the corner at the same time. May not be an issue, but I know in my kitchen it drives me nuts.

Also, do you happen to have the height of the box without the casters? I would like to eventually build something like that for my garage.

I measured the box at HF the other day, and the height of the cabinet from top lip to bottom lip was 33-9/16"

I don't mind the 'drawer collision zone" in the corner, because I try not to walk away from a toolbox and leave the drawer open. I learned this the hard way when a gallon of anti-freeze tipped over on top of my roll cab once when I was under a truck and the air hose I was pulling on jerked the box. The open drawer funneled the anti-freeze into the box, down into several other drawers, inside the cabinet, etc. I spent a weekend cleaning that mess up.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks Jack.
Is your bench free-standing, or resting on top of the box?
If the top rests on the box, how is it supported? Just on the edges of the box, or did you shim up the flat area of the box top with plywood?
What is under the box for support? Did you set it directly on the floor, or are there feet where the wheels used to be?

The bench top is affixed to the wall, but the bench supports its weight. I have plywood on the top flat section and ripped sections of 2x4 lengths underneath.

 

[bullfrog123]

Sheet of 3/4" plywood cut to fit and 2x6" pcs to fill in the gap and then 3/4" partical board for the final top. This allowed me to keep the final height the same as my welding bench. Top is secured to the legs of the bench and the top of the toolbox carries the center load. The top is also secured with "L" brackets to the back wall and anchored to the floor on both sides with turn buckles and concrete anchors.

I set the box back about 1.5" and depending on where I stand the top drawer can be a PITA to see whats in the back. But gives me just enough room to clamp something of needed, (which is seldom since I have several other benches for that use).

 

[Steevo]

Thanks for those answers, Jack and bullfrog. It helps me to know how others have resolved the questions I am coming up with.

I think I have arrived at my final design for the benches, assuming the steel isn't too expensive.

 

[mister honey]

I wondered this from your first post:

How do you load the HF boxes into the frame?

Lower them in from overhead before the bench top is attached?

I'd rethink the design one last time and make your frames front loading, so the boxes slide in.

Mike

 

[claymont]

What are your plans for the corner space where the boxes meet?

 

[cwlo]

One other question: Does the HF top have no reinforcement between the sides? Looks like it would bow in the center with a lot of weight if using it for support.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[Steevo]

I wondered this from your first post:

How do you load the HF boxes into the frame?

Lower them in from overhead before the bench top is attached?

I'd rethink the design one last time and make your frames front loading, so the boxes slide in.

Mike

I want them to drop in from the top before the bench tops go on.

 

[Steevo]

One other question: Does the HF top have no reinforcement between the sides? Looks like it would bow in the center with a lot of weight if using it for support.

Thanks,

Chris

I don't want to rely on the HF boxes supporting a workbench that I want to bang on, put heavy things on, etc., so I am supporting the bench tops with legs and angle iron. The boxes sit inside, just under that bench top.

 

[Steevo]

What are your plans for the corner space where the boxes meet?

The top of the bench along the back wall will actually be 30" longer, overhanging to the right, and have an extra set of legs out on the end, or a ledger on the wall to sit on top of.
Once these are assembled, and pushed together in the corner, I may weld the seam between the steel caps together and grind it flush.
The steel caps will actually be folded up to have a 6" backsplash against the walls, and down to have a 1-3/4" drop over the front.

 

[jumbo61]

Thanks for those answers, Jack and bullfrog. It helps me to know how others have resolved the questions I am coming up with.

I think I have arrived at my final design for the benches, assuming the steel isn't too expensive.

Those boxes are on sale for $399 each. The steel should be less than one of those.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

The new Hot Rod Magazine that came in the mail this week has a super coupon for those toolchests for $349.99 each from harbor freight.

 

[Steevo]

The new Hot Rod Magazine that came in the mail this week has a super coupon for those toolchests for $349.99 each from harbor freight.

I am going to look for that Hot Rod mag/coupon today!

UPDATE; August issues already gone from the magazine stands around here, and the Sept. issue doesn't have the 13-drawer box on special.

 

[jumbo61]

Just got a flyer in the newspaper (8/14) with a super coupon for $349. Good for 4 until 10/16/11.

 

[ALWX65]

Get the Sept issue of DieselPower, they have a very large add in there.

ALW

 

[Steevo]

I'll look for those.
Thanks!

 

[sscustom]

looks good when does the build begin?

 

[Steevo]

looks good when does the build begin?

I hope to get to the steel place this week to price out the material. I will buy the boxes right after Labor Day, when I'll be in Idaho, saving me transporting them from Calif.
If I get the steel in time, I may start the first bench build that week.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

Steevo I checked the Hot Rod Mag... It the October issue that just came. So you haven't missed it yet.

 

[Steevo]

I'll be watching the magazine racks for that issue, or the Diesel Power mag with the same ad.

Thanks!