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HF Inspection Camera 66550

IONH

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So I purchased a Cen-tech (Harbor Freight) #66550 inspection camera a couple of years ago for probably $80 on sale minus a coupon. Now they are a different color (gray/red) and a different model number, so this information may or may not apply.

I'd only used it a couple of times early on to inspect a valve retainer with its mirror attachment. Worked great for that. However, I tried to use it maybe a year later and of course the batteries were dead. I replaced the batteries in the gun (camera) portion and plugged in the display, but the display would not power on.

I left the display plugged in to the outlet for 3 or 4 days as I had forgotten about it. When I came back out and pressed the power button, the LED flickered briefly, but that was it. I left it for another couple days and came back out and it turned on that time and worked normally. I knew the battery was probably junk so I used it plugged in and eventually put it away again.

Today I wanted to use it at my mom's house to look at how an ancient (40+ year) installation of a NG oven was done but, of course, the battery was dead and it did not respond when plugged into an outlet. Being frustrated with it again, I decided to open it up and see what type of battery it had in order to find a replacement.

Upon opening, I see it has a 3.7V 1750 mAh battery. The manual for the product claims it is Lithium Ion. I was not able to find the battery on the internet based on the markings (see picture).

The original charge adapter was 8V so I didn't feel safe using that. Into the storage bin with misc DC adapters I went to find something with a close voltage. Out comes a Sony 4.5VDC adapter.

I tore the original battery off some circuit board. I do not know what the board is for, but I expected it was a voltage regulator, stabilizer or even a charge controller... Took a couple pieces of wire and touched them on the DC adapter and put them onto the board where the battery leads had been previously located. Nothing happened.

Moved the wire leads to the wires going onto the main board, bypassing the prior battery board and the LED flickered on. Good sign!

Touched them a bit more securely together and was able to turn the monitor on. It worked!

I may try stealing one of the 3x AAA battery cradles out of a flash light and strapping it to the monitor as that would give me 4.5V. Maybe 3x AA would be better as I think that'd be 3.6V, but those cradles aren't available in random flash lights I have laying around.
 

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thesilverone

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was this being charged in the garage? The PCB that was attached to the lithium ion battery controlled the charge/discharge.
 

firebox40dash5

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3.7v Li-Ion batteries are pretty common in cell phones. Found a bunch of hits on Amazon for Samsung, LG, and Blackberry batteries, and the shape looks about the same.

I've probably got half a dozen Blackberry batteries I could send you, but they might not work worth ****.
 
OP
I

IONH

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I also saw them readily available. However, none listed dimensions so that made it difficult to purchase.

Also, how about the charge controller? Is it usually built into cell phone batteries while this one was not?
 
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IONH

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As I didn't want to cut the end off the DC adapter, I simply snapped a small piece off one half of the covers and wrapped the wire with enough electrical tape to make it a tight fit.

All set now to just be plugged in whenever I need it. Turns right on and looks good.
 

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andywander

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......I may try stealing one of the 3x AAA battery cradles out of a flash light and strapping it to the monitor as that would give me 4.5V. Maybe 3x AA would be better as I think that'd be 3.6V, but those cradles aren't available in random flash lights I have laying around....

What AA battery has a different voltage than a AAA battery of the same type?
 
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IONH

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What AA battery has a different voltage than a AAA battery of the same type?

I had looked at batteries I had kicking around here, and the AA batteries had 1.2V each while the AAA had 1.5V each.

Upon a bit of research (using the term "research" losely as it is wikipedia)...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AA_battery
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AAA_battery

It appears non-rechargeable AA and AAA batteries are generally all 1.5V.

Side note, to contribute to the thread, I have used the camera a half dozen times since this retrofit and, aside from having to pull out an extension cord, it still works great. The thin DC cord gives me easy movement of the display.
 

95blklsc

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Dec 11, 2009
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Thread resurrection! Let me preface this by saying I'm an electrical engineer very well versed in failure analysis of electronics.

I bought one of these inspection cameras a while back. I have used it from time to time, but not a whole lot, maybe 20 minutes in total over the years. I went to use it today and the screen wouldn't work. I figured it had gone dead so I took out the supplied charger and plugged it in. A few hours later nothing, it still wouldn't power on.

I decided to check the power adapter, it's putting out 8V DC perfectly. I looked at the connector and it looked ok, no issues. It is your typical barrel connector with + on the inside and - on the outside. I took a flashlight and looked down into the jack on the screen to see if the center pin that makes contact to + in the barrel connector was damaged in any way. Much to my surprise, there wasn't a center contact. I figured I just couldn't see it well enough. I took the screen apart and found exactly what is pictured in the beginning of this thread, the li-po cell with leads soldered to the board. Sure enough the two connectors on the side are identical and not designed to use a center + connector. This screen assembly WILL NOT charge with the supped charger or the jack on the board. There isn't 8V DC on the connector pads soldered to the board. I'm not sure what happened here. Possibly the power supply was supposed to have a multi segment connector like a 3.5mm audio connector, or possibly one of the jacks (for power) was supped to be a different part than what they populated the board with. Someone in manufacturing or design royally screwed up on this one. It only works as long as the initial charge from the factory on the display lasts. How did something with an issue like this get shipped?

Between this battery issue and the flexible camera assembly pulling out of the connector that fastens to the handle I'm very disappointed. Granted it was only $80 while many others are more than double that, it's useless. I didn't get my moneys worth!

The pictures I attached illustrate that the jack doesn't have a terminal to make contact with the inside of the barrel connector. I also took one to show the length of the connector in relation to the jack.
 

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95blklsc

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It's crazy though. It's a fairly complex little board in this thing. There are so many parts to screw up that are a hell of a lot more complicated than selecting the right connector or jack. I'll just end up hard wiring this thing unfortunately.
 

95blklsc

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Dec 11, 2009
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80.00 for a China made camera they have to fix or spend 99.00 on a American made camera in a better case and it works

Could you post a link?

When I bought this I couldn't find any other inspection cameras similar to this for under $200 it seemed.
 

Zapp Branigan

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Mar 16, 2014
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Apparently, they ditched the Li-Ion version because of the problems. When I bought mine ($69 on sale with coupon) they said it was a different unit because every one of the previous ones they sold got returned. The new one uses regular AA batteries. It's been good to me for a couple years now. Sure is nice to see into the lifter valley without pulling the intake.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-inspection-camera-67979.html
 

Fogey1

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Mar 2, 2009
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No link ill post pics of mine shortly

Resurrected to ask for the promised picture, inter alia. TIA.

... I'm an electrical engineer very well versed in failure analysis of electronics. ... I took a flashlight and looked down into the jack on the screen to see if the center pin that makes contact to + in the barrel connector was damaged in any way. Much to my surprise, there wasn't a center contact. ... the two connectors on the side are identical and not designed to use a center + connector. This screen assembly WILL NOT charge with the supped charger or the jack on the board. There isn't 8V DC on the connector pads soldered to the board. I'm not sure what happened here. Possibly the power supply was supposed to have a multi segment connector like a 3.5mm audio connector, or possibly one of the jacks (for power) was supped to be a different part than what they populated the board with. Someone in manufacturing or design royally screwed up on this one. It only works as long as the initial charge from the factory on the display lasts. ... The pictures I attached illustrate that the jack doesn't have a terminal to make contact with the inside of the barrel connector....

Thanks for this post. It perfectly describes my failure mode and your pix of the jacks are exactly what I see also. :bowdown:

Is there a way to install a post to contact the center of the barrel? Would that do the trick? Might it be possible to wire a different jack onto the charger, one that would make it work?

I don't care anywhere near as much about the video out port but I'd like it to charge. And ...

... I'll just end up hard wiring this thing unfortunately.

MORE, please. Got pix of what you did? I'd love to have this expensive tool work again.

Thanks for the time you've taken so far. Feel free to write a further tutorial. :headscrat ;)

Thanks again,

Will
 
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tehach

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Mar 7, 2010
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211
I'm shocked to find out Harbor Freight sells haplessly-designed ****!

LOL at the people out there with this turd sitting in their toolbox, dead as a doornail.
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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12,711
OP,

those are called lithium Polymer batteries, you'll find them in cell phone, ipad/ ipod / android tablets that broke. ... or you might be able to find one from one of those hobby lightweight remote controlled toys places, ie your kids remote control toy chopper... and google of cause, "lithium polymer batteries"... though all single cell are 3.7v they literally comes in different size shape, and capacity.

http://www.all-battery.com/li-polymer_single_19to1000.aspx

The PCB that you tore up and find inside any lithium batter is called charge controllers,,, the circuit is design to open once it reach it's charging capacity, Each cell or cells in parallel will needed one. even though your battery back is a 12V that only means it's PCB is a 4 in one charge controller. Some battery cells have it build in, some don't.

http://www.all-battery.com/protectivepcbsforli-ionandli-polymerbatterypacks.aspx


some kind of advertisement wraps from this site ( GJ ) that prevent the links from opening properly not sure.. just copy and paste in new browser tabs. I am getting the original link waraped into sharesale.com thing must be some sort of advertisement thing.

http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?B=33510&U=389818&M=7491&affTrack=i6867ttlxs0025g300gcb&urllink=...............
 
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