HF pressure sandblaster modification

[evintho]

I finally got around to modding my HF 90lb pressure sandblaster. I got tired of blasting for 2 minutes then spending 30 minutes unclogging everything! I wound up replacing the feed assembly and modding the nozzle too. A few $$ in hardware store parts and a Saturday afternoon later and this thing is right up there with some of the $400 blasters!

Here's the beast in question. I don't think HF even sells the 90lb unit anymore. Couldn't find it on their website.



First I removed the original feed assembly underneath the tank then hit the local Home Depot plumbing department for everything I needed and put it all together. Below is the list of parts.

A - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
B - 1/2" ball valve
C - 1/2" x close ******
D - 1/2" MIP x 1/2" barbed fitting
E - 1/2" galvanized Tee
F - 1/2" galvanized 45*
G - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
H - 3/8" brass coupling

The red and black hoses are original equipment.



So, I basically upgraded from 3/8" to 1/2" but there's really more to it than that. Here's a pic of the old feed assembly next to the new one. In the 2nd pic, note the size of the hole the media flows through! That's the choke point where all the clogging tended to be! With the 1/2" plumbing fittings, the hole is 3 times that size! No more clogging!!





Be aware the 'made in china' POS has metric threads at the bottom of the tank but the MIP brass fittings are soft so wrap them with teflon tape and they'll screw nice and tightly into the steel metric boss.

Because the new feed assembly sits lower than the original, I had to extend the legs to raise the unit up about 3". I still need to throw some paint on 'em.





Holding the deadman handle down while blasting is a real PITA! Simple fix. Drive the rollpin out and remove the deadman handle. Back down to HD for a 3/8" x close ****** and a 3/8" ball valve. It makes it soooo much easier to handle now!



Here it is in all it's splendored glory!



One thing I've learned...........forget about using sand! Not only will it kill ya but it just doesn't do a very good job. I used to buy the $4 - 50lb bags at HD. Now I drive up the road and pick up 50 lb bags of Black Diamond blasting media at Tractor Supply Co. They cost twice as much but do 3 times a better job than sand! 1 bag of Black Diamond will do the same job as 3 bags of sand! So really, you're saving money and it works much faster! Win, win!

I've found it best to crack the media feed ball valve handle about 1/4 of the way open. Open the air handles all the way. I use an I/R 5hp compressor with a water trap 5' downstream. I also fabbed this setup to help keep the air dry. I screw this to the side of my toolshed when I'm blasting outside. Combine that with the water trap that comes with the blaster and I have clean dry air!



Today I blasted 4 wheels, a complete rearend housing and various suspension components. Took me about an hour and the blaster didn't clog once!! Mission accomplished!

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Looks great--thanks for the ideas!

 

[sberry]

It probably wont be an issue with yours but xxh pipe fittings can help from wear thru. If you are buying media 50# at a shot it wont matter. My Bud bought that 90# one and it worked.

Mine is a copy. I didn't use a deadman at all. I bought a fistful of xxh 1/8x6 pipe ******* and cut them in half on the chop saw for nozzels. I used old pressure washer hose and re usable hyd fittings, have worn right thru, just replaced them, its all cheap stuff I have on hand.

 

[sberry]

Sand is for rust, its very slow on paint and other hard to cut surfaces. They grade it, sharp hard sand is like crushed glass often called super blast.

 

[PCO6]

I made similar improvements to my blaster and you're right, you can get them to flow a lot better.

With regard to clogging, I found out the hard way that you should cover the media inlet hole on the top of the unit when it's not being used. I had a mouse climb to the top of the blaster and then fall in to it. It couldn't get out and that became its final resting spot. The next time I pressurized the tank I forced the dead mouse along with the sand into the lines. I had to empty the tank and clear all of the lines before I figured out what happened.

I now keep a plastic bucket cover on top of the unit when its not in use ... and I turned the bucket into a "water trap" for other unwanted mice.

 

[hell_fish_65]

I have a much smaller HF unit and will try this out. It have been a PITA to use.

 

[RonRock]

I made similar improvements to my blaster and you're right, you can get them to flow a lot better.

With regard to clogging, I found out the hard way that you should cover the media inlet hole on the top of the unit when it's not being used. I had a mouse climb to the top of the blaster and then fall in to it. It couldn't get out and that became its final resting spot. The next time I pressurized the tank I forced the dead mouse along with the sand into the lines. I had to empty the tank and clear all of the lines before I figured out what happened.

I now keep a plastic bucket cover on top of the unit when its not in use ... and I turned the bucket into a "water trap" for other unwanted mice.

I read this recently and had to come back and say thanks! My blaster has sat for a couple years in the shop unused. I needed it yesterday for a project. I remembered your post so took a look inside. Whoo WTF! it was like a dead mouse condo. And man did it stink! Had to take the top funnel off and dump the sand and dead mice out.

But it saved me a bunch of time with a clogged hose and fittings.

Now I'll figure out a way to seal it up when not in use.

Cheers to you.

And thanks again.

Ron

 

[theoldwizard1]

Okay, dumb question !

I have never used a sand blaster. I assume you are using them outside, correct ? Do you just go to an area where you don't mind the "grit" and "residue" building up on the ground or do you try to catch most of it with a tarp ?

If you have a large open area inside, can you tarp it and blast there ?

 

[finn]

You'll have a hard time containing the sand indoors.

Hanging tarps from the ceiling will help, but there's still the dust to contend with.

 

[evintho]

I just happened to check this post today. Yeah, I use the blaster in the backyard. I have a 10'x12' area behind my toolshed that I use for blasting. A blue HF tarp on the ground, 200 sq ft of 1mm thick plastic drop cloth ($3 at Home Depot) stapled to 1" strapping which is attached to the fence and the tool shed wall keeps 95% of the blasting media contained. When finished, scoop it up with a shovel and toss it in the yard waste garbage can.

 

[golferguy]

Haven't broke my HF blaster out of the box yet but will mod mine too. thanks

 

[f575gtc]

Can you just use 1/4 inch fittings for nozzles?

for $1 you can have a new nozzle that should last a while.

 

[Brad J.]

Those are good upgrades. I had a Tractor supply version and only used a few times before I gave it away. Spent more time working on it than using it.

Your "B" valve works much better if it's 1/4" instead of 3/8". What you have is a smaller valve that is 3/4 open vs. a larger valve that is 1/4 shut. Media flows much better because the more open a valve is the less obstruction. One of the best mods I've done to my ALC blaster which is setup like you just did.

Your "D" barb fitting will wear out quickly. ALC sells a hardened part that lasts. Otherwise keeps some spare barbs handy and spend time dinking around with it.

 

[elowsma]

The posting is old but for me still valid. I gave a guy $50 for this same HF model. Not many left being sold since it was discontinued by HF. I was having all the same problems as everyone else and was just about to relinquish the blaster of all its duties, but first I thought I would do another quick check on the internet. I ran into this post and had my plaster updated the next day... welds and all. Now it works like a champ. I am up to a $64 dollar investment. Thanks for the post.

 

[malibulvr]

Those are good upgrades. I had a Tractor supply version and only used a few times before I gave it away. Spent more time working on it than using it.

Your "B" valve works much better if it's 1/4" instead of 3/8". What you have is a smaller valve that is 3/4 open vs. a larger valve that is 1/4 shut. Media flows much better because the more open a valve is the less obstruction. One of the best mods I've done to my ALC blaster which is setup like you just did.

Your "D" barb fitting will wear out quickly. ALC sells a hardened part that lasts. Otherwise keeps some spare barbs handy and spend time dinking around with it.

I looked above and he has a 1/2" valve for B and not 3/8", what did you mean by your statement?

 

[Chickenrider]

I finally got around to modding my HF 90lb pressure sandblaster. I got tired of blasting for 2 minutes then spending 30 minutes unclogging everything! I wound up replacing the feed assembly and modding the nozzle too. A few $$ in hardware store parts and a Saturday afternoon later and this thing is right up there with some of the $400 blasters!

Here's the beast in question. I don't think HF even sells the 90lb unit anymore. Couldn't find it on their website.



First I removed the original feed assembly underneath the tank then hit the local Home Depot plumbing department for everything I needed and put it all together. Below is the list of parts.

A - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
B - 1/2" ball valve
C - 1/2" x close ******
D - 1/2" MIP x 1/2" barbed fitting
E - 1/2" galvanized Tee
F - 1/2" galvanized 45*
G - 1/2" MIP x 3/8" MIP
H - 3/8" brass coupling

The red and black hoses are original equipment.



So, I basically upgraded from 3/8" to 1/2" but there's really more to it than that. Here's a pic of the old feed assembly next to the new one. In the 2nd pic, note the size of the hole the media flows through! That's the choke point where all the clogging tended to be! With the 1/2" plumbing fittings, the hole is 3 times that size! No more clogging!!





Be aware the 'made in china' POS has metric threads at the bottom of the tank but the MIP brass fittings are soft so wrap them with teflon tape and they'll screw nice and tightly into the steel metric boss.

Because the new feed assembly sits lower than the original, I had to extend the legs to raise the unit up about 3". I still need to throw some paint on 'em.





Holding the deadman handle down while blasting is a real PITA! Simple fix. Drive the rollpin out and remove the deadman handle. Back down to HD for a 3/8" x close ****** and a 3/8" ball valve. It makes it soooo much easier to handle now!



Here it is in all it's splendored glory!



One thing I've learned...........forget about using sand! Not only will it kill ya but it just doesn't do a very good job. I used to buy the $4 - 50lb bags at HD. Now I drive up the road and pick up 50 lb bags of Black Diamond blasting media at Tractor Supply Co. They cost twice as much but do 3 times a better job than sand! 1 bag of Black Diamond will do the same job as 3 bags of sand! So really, you're saving money and it works much faster! Win, win!

I've found it best to crack the media feed ball valve handle about 1/4 of the way open. Open the air handles all the way. I use an I/R 5hp compressor with a water trap 5' downstream. I also fabbed this setup to help keep the air dry. I screw this to the side of my toolshed when I'm blasting outside. Combine that with the water trap that comes with the blaster and I have clean dry air!



Today I blasted 4 wheels, a complete rearend housing and various suspension components. Took me about an hour and the blaster didn't clog once!! Mission accomplished!

Thank you so much for this post! It really helped me get the HF 110# blaster going strong.

-Caleb

 

[evintho]

Wow! 9 years later and this post is still relevant! I'm glad this info was able to help so many. I actually sold my modded HF unit for $150 and applied that towards a real sandblaster. This Texas Blaster has blasted 2 complete cars plus many other parts. It's a beast and does a super job!

 

[bassdr]

Applied the mods and MUCH better success! But the media blew through the cheapxxs brass fittings in only 15 minutes! As recommended by others, get stainless steel fittings!

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Subscribed for future reference - Thanks

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Taking some of the advice offered here.

First thing was increase ground clearance and strengthen the front leg.

Added 4” by sleeving the legs with 1/2” 16 gauge pipe and plug welding them.

Next is new fittings, valves and paint.

Thanks again to the OP who shared his modifications.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I suggest a larger diameter pad on the leg to prevent sinking into the dirt.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I suggest a larger diameter pad on the leg to prevent sinking into the dirt.

Not a bad idea. I am fortunate that I have a huge concrete pad in front of my shop which is where it will be used but the next time I have the welder out, I’ll stick a bigger square on there.

 

[GeoBruin]

I am fortunate that I have a huge concrete pad in front of my shop

As if I wasn't jealous enough after seeing pictures of the inside of your shop...

Having painted a lot of hacked together Harbor Freight stuff, I recommend Rustoleum Gloss Cherry or Sunrise Red. In these photos, I feel like the Cherry would be a closer match.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Back to working on my Harbor Freight sandblaster modifications.

Gave it a 4” lift to make room for the 1/2” fittings on the bottom and blew some paint on it this morning.

 

[evintho]

Really nice job!

 

[SouthernIllinois]

New handle bar grips and the rest of the fittings on the top are on.

Found an unofficial Matco sticker in the bottom of a tool box drawer so I rebranded it as a Matco sandblaster.

So far I have raised it 4" to clear the new, bigger fittings on the bottom, rebuilt the front leg so it is sturdy, replaced all the fittings with new 1/2" ones and painted it.

Just need to get off my **** and order new hoses and a nozzle.

 

[PCustoms]

Found an unofficial Matco sticker in the bottom of a tool box drawer so I rebranded it as a Matco sandblaster.

What, didn't have any snap on?

Looks good!