HF Ring Roller

[scrapperzen]

I'm working on a project and have been using the HF ring roller. There is always a flat part at both ends of the work piece. Is this just something I need to hammer out on a mandrel or is this just a POS?

I'm trying to make multiple 5" rings. I have access to torches so I'm wondering if I should just make a jig and bend them with heat. The challenge is that I'll probably need to make hundred of these things if this project works out.

Any ideas?

 

[dieselgarage]

Do you have a three roll roller, or a four? Both still have the same issue just the four roll makes it less. We roll lots of heavy rings. We do it a few different ways when it comes to the flat issue. I will bump bent the ends prior to rolling. Or run the ends in and out of our sheet roller prior to ring rolling. People think you can roll the flats out on the ring roller. That will never happen.

 

[dieselgarage]

One more thought but it's hard on the roller. Let the ends overlap and run through the roller and then cut/trim the excess of for fit up.

 

[scrapperzen]

Thanks for the responses. I was thinking that if I roll the rings out, weld the ends together, then put them back through the roller if that would work. Guess it's all trial and error until the project gets underway.

 

[lilredex]

Thanks for the responses. I was thinking that if I roll the rings out, weld the ends together, then put them back through the roller if that would work. Guess it's all trial and error until the project gets underway.

That's the way I have done it......like the lower ring here.


image sharing

 

[PugetDude]

It's not a POS because of the flats. May be for other reasons, but that isn't one of them. It's a function of the distance between the bending rolls. The flats occur because there is nothing to bend against on the ends until the material contacts both rollers.

Your best option for nice round rings is:

1. Cut the material to length- figure the circumference of the finished roll through the neutral axis- that is through the centerline of the material. If you were rolling a hoop out of 1/4" stock and wanted a 8" outside diameter, you would subtract one material thickness (half the thickness from each side) from 8"- then multiply that by pi. In this case you would cut the strip to 8" minus the .25" material thickness=7.75" X 3.1416 = 24.3474" long. If you were using 1/2" stock you would use a strip 8"-minus material thickness= 7.5" x 3.1416= 23.562" long. Take a few minutes to do the math. Get the length right, DO NOT leave extra and try to roll a double thickness through the rolls. It will ruin any set of rolls, not just the cheap HF version.

2. Pre-bend the ends back before rolling. Do this for the distance between the bending rolls plus an inch or so. Make a cardboard template of the inside diameter, and check to see that you are close to the inside radius you want. Again, this will vary due to material thickness. Do the math.

3. Roll the ring as usual, until the ends come together.

4. Tack weld the ends together while still in the roller. Grind the weld flush so you don't damage the rolls.

5. Without changing the roll settings, roll the now-tacked cylinder around a time or two. Back-roll if you can.

6. This should net you a near-perfect ring, spot-on dimensionally and ready to use.

Good luck.

 

[Brad54]

Make your blanks longer than they need to be. Mark the length you NEED, in from each end.
Roll the ring, cut off the flat part at both ends.

-Brad