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HF Tool Chest and butcher block workbench (another one)

number9

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Aug 31, 2006
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220
HF Tool Chest and butcher block workbench - now for tung oil

Was inspired by this thread and have been wanting to do this for a long time. Recent 15% OFF coupon pushed me over the edge and I got two of the 44" x 22" chests. Plan to cover them with a 10' x 25" butcher block counter top.

This garage will only be used as a motorcycle garage. Light duty and fairly clean work, just general maintenance. I've got a 40x60 shop where all the dirty, beating, banging, and sparks flying happens.

My garage floor is sloped, so I needed to replace the castors with leveling feet. After MUCH searching and reading, I ended up ordering the leveling feet from Lakeside Industries. They were cheap, shipped the next day and I had them in a couple days. I ordered them on the long side knowing I'd cut them to lengths I needed to match the floor slope (they can only thread about 2" up inside the bottom of the cabinet).

https://www.lakesideindustries.net/product_p/1210640-ab20.htm

I made some plates and welded 5/8-11 nuts to them for the leveling feet. Drilled 3/4" hole in the bottom of the cabinet to allow the 5/8 stud to thread up into and get about 2" range of adjustment.


Screwed 2x6's to the wall so I can push the chests up against for a consistent 1-1/2" standoff from the wall and will provide 1-1/2" overhang of the butcher block on the front of the chests. If the chests move any when opening / closing drawers, a couple wood screws with fender washers through the back panel of the chest into the 2x6's should fix it.


I've got the chests set in place and leveled to 36" off the floor. I plan to add 3/4" plywood on top and then sit the butcher block across them both, and screwed from underside of chest. Once done, the work height should be about 38" from the floor.


This garage is part of my basement and has spray foam insulation on the backside of all 3 walls, in the ceiling (under the kitchen floor) and door is insulated. Even in 32* outside temps, the garage is at worst a little chilly, like sweatshirt comfortable.

Is there any reason I should leave the rubber mats on top of the chests in place to act as a vapor barrier between the metal chest and 3/4" plywood?

ETA - looks like the embedded images weren't showing up
 

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number9

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Been looking for garage cabinets for long time and wasn't finding what I wanted, without spending lots of $$. Wasn't opposed to the New Age cabinets, but couldn't get what I wanted in a predetermined package and buying individual cabinets really pushed the cost higher than I wanted.

Home Depot had the Husky cabinets on sale around Christmas, and they seemed to get good reviews, so I decided to take a chance on a couple. I think I got the 36"W x 18" deep cabinets for around $240ea. For they money, I am really pleased with them.

I had some Zaino left over from several years ago and put 2 coats on the US General tool chests and the Husky cabinets. The orange peel really shows up on camera but not as much to the naked eye.
 

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number9

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Picked up a 12' maple butcher block countertop at Lumber Liquidators on Friday. Cut it down to 10' last night, and sanded the top and eased the edges with 220. Have some Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil on the way, hope to have it in a couple days.

Have a question on the oiling process. I know I need to oil all sides, but not sure on the order of the process to keep it from cupping. I am thinking:

- butcher block placed on saw horses with bottom surface facing up
- oil the bottom surface (facing up)
- let it sit for ???? length of time
- flip it over so bottom is now sitting on the horses and top surface facing up
- oil top surface and all sides

Does that sound right? How long can it sit with the oil on one surface before flipping to do the other side? I would think it need to sit long enough for the oil to soak in, but at what point is too long that runs the risk of starting to cup?
 

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Hank11

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Aug 19, 2019
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Slather on the finish on all sides and especially the end grain. Slather on and flip it over, don't worry about a few fingerprints. Let it sit until it just starts to tack up a bit and wipe it off all around. Put more on the end grain and let that stay. Let sit a few days and repeat. Maple won't absorb much but it will help to seal it up a bit.
 

Hank11

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I'd cut some plywood for the tops then let the maple sit on that. Just a few screws is all you'll need - that top is heavy.
 
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nadogail

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Coronado, CA
Old sections of bowling alley make good bench tops. I scored some from an alley being closed in the late '70s.

You just might get lucky.
 
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number9

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Messages
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I'd cut some plywood for the tops then let the maple sit on that. Just a few screws is all you'll need - that top is heavy.

Yep, plan to do that, haven’t been able to run and get some for the rain the last few days.
 

Retroman

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Jan 21, 2018
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Mojave Desert
The Pure Tung oil from Real Milk is good stuff I used it on some M1 Garand stocks and S&W Revolver grips.

I got some Maple T&G flooring cutoffs from a gym floor being installed at a local community center I may just cover my work bench top with it.
 
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