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HF Toolboxes Workbench - Phase 3

larry4406

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I bolted two identical "std" three drawer rollers back to back to make a stand for my big DeWalt RAS many years back and made a one piece Ply top. No pics and it's currently buried,

The trick was to put bolts in close to the corners so the metal would not flex and I used big washers to ensure clamping to the edges.

I also took off one caster per inside corner so it had six casters supporting but were not hitting each other, and used all swiveling casters.

Outlawmws - thank you for jumping in!

I was thinking about having 4 fixed casters on the same end with 4 swivel casters on the other end. I agree on the rigid bolting together of the boxes. I am hoping to use the original casters. You indicated 6 swivels so you had to buy some.
 
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Outlawmws

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More than two fixed casters doesn't maneuver very well is the issue. It still wants to go straight sort of.. you might get by with two fixed at one end...

And yes, I bought to get all swivelers.
 

pitterpat

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First post for me!

Might I suggest a Brother P-Touch label maker? They are amazing...I use it for everything, though the original purpose was to label my tool box. If you get the kind that uses the TZ tape, it will hold up to most anything you are going to throw at it. Nothing better than pulling the right drawer the first time. For the record, I have no affiliation with Brother, just really like the product and can say that it works.

Especially if you put those on magnetic tags he could put on each drawer / door. Then if he moved some stuff he wouldn't have to peel it off the metal.
 

Outlawmws

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I have a bunch of the magnetic pre-printed labels for the common stuff,, Once I learn my box setup I don't need them, but when others, like my kids, are helping it helps them when getting me a tool and I'm flat on my back under something.

Parts bins on the other hand...
 

red61cj5

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I am so glad someone woke up this thread, this is the coolest thing ever. I was just going to get a 44 inch at HF in a few days, now I may get 2. I'm thinking a V with one on each end and leg space beneath in the middle. Steevo rules!
 

mcmlvif100

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Northern Indiana
Its 3 sheets of 3/4" red oak staggered and screwed together to make 1-1/2" thick. the top is 27" wide by 10ft long. I urethane it with 5 coats

:headscrat
word problem of the day :eyecrazy:

Am thinking that he needed 3 sheets 8 ft. long to get the 27 inch width and the 10 ft. overall length. Likely ripped all 3 sheets to 27 inches wide and then used two 2 ft. long sections off of one sheet to give him the 10 ft. length that he wanted.
 

Outlawmws

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I am so glad someone woke up this thread, this is the coolest thing ever. I was just going to get a 44 inch at HF in a few days, now I may get 2. I'm thinking a V with one on each end and leg space beneath in the middle. Steevo rules!

If you are using the corner for leg space, you can also tuck something like a shop vac back in the far corner and still not be kicking it...
 

laser3kw

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Am thinking that he needed 3 sheets 8 ft. long to get the 27 inch width and the 10 ft. overall length. Likely ripped all 3 sheets to 27 inches wide and then used two 2 ft. long sections off of one sheet to give him the 10 ft. length that he wanted.

good explanation, made my brain hurt for a minute.
Do you think he cut one 8ft into to 4 ft and then the other two 8ft into a 6ft and a 2ft. That would give him a 6ft / 4ft comb which would put the **** joint near the center.
Or
two 8 ft / 2 ft combo and move the **** join to one side?
And I understand that the top layer is opposite the bottom layer, keeping the **** joints from lining up.

No matter what, it does like nice......
 
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JCQuick

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Apopka Fla.
Am thinking that he needed 3 sheets 8 ft. long to get the 27 inch width and the 10 ft. overall length. Likely ripped all 3 sheets to 27 inches wide and then used two 2 ft. long sections off of one sheet to give him the 10 ft. length that he wanted.

Yep that's what I did and why it took 3 sheets

good explanation, made my brain hurt for a minute.
Do you think he cut one 8ft into to 4 ft and then the other two 8ft into a 6ft and a 2ft. That would give him a 6ft / 4ft comb which would put the **** joint near the center.
Or
two 8 ft / 2 ft combo and move the **** join to one side?
And I understand that the top layer is opposite the bottom layer, keeping the **** joints from lining up.

No matter what, it does like nice......

I cut the 3rd piece into 2 2' pieces and staggered the 8 footers so there is a seam on each end of the top 1 on the bottom and 1 on the top hope that explains it. If not i'll post a pic up
 

John in OH

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Looks great! Are all of the cabinets Cman? Can you provide a little more explanation of the first cabinet to the left of the corner ..... it appears to have double doors, but there are drawer tracks visible on the left side ??? Also, why is there a space above the extreme left cabinet??

No criticism intended, just curious! I envy you the space you'll have available.
 

Simon3315

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Looks great! Are all of the cabinets Cman? Can you provide a little more explanation of the first cabinet to the left of the corner ..... it appears to have double doors, but there are drawer tracks visible on the left side ??? Also, why is there a space above the extreme left cabinet??

No criticism intended, just curious! I envy you the space you'll have available.


Hi John,

It's fine, the cabinets on the lift side are all made by sealey (uk only brand I think)

The lift side I made it from two old cabinets in that pic all the drawers are not fitted, that's why it looks odd. I will post up some better pics if you like?


 
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RebelAlliance

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I'd be curious to know the part numbers for the tube inserts and leveling feet, if anyone wouldn't mind sharing. I see many options on the jwwinco.com website and before I put my order in, I'd love to know what every else bought.
 

Farrier

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RebelAlliance;64814a48 said:
I'd be curious to know the part numbers for the tube inserts and leveling feet, if anyone wouldn't mind sharing. I see many options on the jwwinco.com website and before I put my order in, I'd love to know what every else bought.

They are available from many sources. MSC, McMasterCarr, Zoro, Amazon etc etc. Just order accordingly to the size of tube you're planning to use. As far as the adjustable feet goes, choose ones that are rated for the weight of your project.
 

RebelAlliance

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They are available from many sources. MSC, McMasterCarr, Zoro, Amazon etc etc. Just order accordingly to the size of tube you're planning to use. As far as the adjustable feet goes, choose ones that are rated for the weight of your project.

Understood and I appreciate that, but the reason for asking is that there are many different options available in the size and weight that I need so was curious what others bought.
 
OP
S

Steevo

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Understood and I appreciate that, but the reason for asking is that there are many different options available in the size and weight that I need so was curious what others bought.


Rebel,
I ordered mine from J.W.Winco ( http://www.jwwinco.com )
Below is a snapshot of the order, showing part numbers.


Description Quantity Price Extended Price Pkg Qty Unit Size
10TPTB
5/8-11 SN993-1.5 1.26FIT SQUARE TUBE END 12 $3.32/EA $39.82 1 1
10T3WP5
(5/8-11) X 3 WN9100-80 NY-LEV 12 $6.92/EA $83.02 1 1

These were for use in 2"x2"x.120" wall tubing. Other tubing sizes/wall thicknesses would need different inserts.
 
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BuffettFan

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Just binge read the entire thread. There are some amazing builds out there by some very creative and talented builders! I am in the process of organizing and hopefully improving working conditions in my 28'X22' attached garage and will be using some of the ideas seen here. Thanks to all who have posted and to Steevo for starting this thing. This is exactly why I joined this forum.
 

Sjfab

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St. Paul Mn
I realize I am late to the game here but, I just came across this forum and most importantly this post. I have built similar work benches for myself. Attached are a few pics. The "short" one is 12' long and the longer one is 20' long. All boxes are husky and it works great
 

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Aimsmall

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I realize I am late to the game here but, I just came across this forum and most importantly this post. I have built similar work benches for myself. Attached are a few pics. The "short" one is 12' long and the longer one is 20' long. All boxes are husky and it works great

Nice work, looks great.
 

C.L S2000

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I realize I am late to the game here but, I just came across this forum and most importantly this post. I have built similar work benches for myself. Attached are a few pics. The "short" one is 12' long and the longer one is 20' long. All boxes are husky and it works great

Very nice, where did you get table top(s) at ? and how much were just the table top(s)?
 

AngryBeaver

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From one steve to another...Awesome build Steve-O. I found this searching for Vidmar/Lista Benches Because I want to do the same concept. But someone already beat me to it..... lol
 

Duker

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Sep 25, 2010
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Livingston, TX
Here's a nice one too. Too bad pics aren't appearing because of Photobucket bandwidth limits.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311519



From one steve to another...Awesome build Steve-O. I found this searching for Vidmar/Lista Benches Because I want to do the same concept. But someone already beat me to it..... lol



Second Alpine’s comment.... Cam’s Lista bench is a beauty. We need to give him some grief to repost his pics!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

heisler3030

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May 29, 2017
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Woodinville WA
How to insert boxes without damage?

Hi! Thanks to Steevo and all those who have contributed since. About to embark on my own build and all your pages of wisdom are a big help.

One question I'm sure others have also faced is how to load the cabinets into the frame absent a forklift. I saw a reference to "sliding them in" with the bench on its side, but I think I need a bit more guidance on how to execute this maneuver without damage to the paint on the bench frame or cabinets.

Plan is for a three-box straight version similar to this one from near the start of the thread:
View media item 27209
I worry that even if I get them in there on their sides, that is a lot to lift to stand up. And sliding them into place feels like there is lots of opportunity for scratches.

As a Harbor Freight aficionado I do have access to some of their furniture dollies, moving blankets, and handcarts. I've got a couple automotive jacks as well. I'm 6'4 / 200lbs and not afraid to do some hefty lifting within reason, nor to buy/rent some additional stuff to make it easier. Had thought about an engine hoist but I'm not so sure this will get me enough height anyway.

What have others done to make this work?
 
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