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HF Toolboxes Workbench - Phase 3

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AussieDan

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I'm trying to figure out exactly how you did those too!

Here's the last set I made for my compressor:

I milled out a recess in the bottom of the puck just larger than the head of the bolt, then drilled a through hole the same diameter as the shank. For this project I didn't make them adjustable so I just bolted them right to the frame. To make them adjustable you'd just need to put a fender washer on top of the puck and thread a nut down onto it.

I got the pucks at Dicks Sporting Goods, $15 for 12 pucks.
 

mdbeck1

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I'm trying to figure out exactly how you did those too!

Here's the last set I made for my compressor:
...snip....

I milled out a recess in the bottom of the puck just larger than the head of the bolt, then drilled a through hole the same diameter as the shank. For this project I didn't make them adjustable so I just bolted them right to the frame. To make them adjustable you'd just need to put a fender washer on top of the puck and thread a nut down onto it.

I got the pucks at Dicks Sporting Goods, $15 for 12 pucks.

I did something similar but used bolts and washers on the bottom (countersunk) and then drilled all the way through the puck and put a washer and nut on (no picks). Then I just bolted them directly onto the bottom of the compressor "feet".

They've been on there about 18-20 months and I haven't noticed any problems.

I think that I bought the hockey pucks off of an EvilBay store for $1-$2 each.
 

bsg

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Awesome thread OP! And I was wondering the same as above, if there is an industrial lazy susan cabinet.

Below is a pic of one in white, and the purple one is what my dad calls "An Efficient Jane". I found no mention of "Efficient Jane" online, so maybe it is his age/wisdom speaking, but I think both could be built fairly easy if you have fab skills. I will do something like this when I blatantly copy the OPs idea one day. :beer:

Here's a link to some nice cabinets, you should be sitting down when you call for a price.

http://www.swivel.pro/index.html

I have seen them in Detroit at a Production Tool Supply, they are very stout as the price reflects.

These are similar to cabinets I have seen from Europe but a little beefier.

Any one with some fab equipment and skills could make these easily enough.

Kevin
 

bsg

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The swivels are made here in Manitoba. Definitely high end pricing, and funny enough, no one sells them locally. Strange.

They are hard to find.:confused:

They are built like a tank but the latch mechanism is a bit simple.:(
It is a spring loaded affair and it rubs on the paint, I would think these would be more suited for a service truck than a nice high end shop where Lista's would be a better choice, IMHO.

I may have to look at Stronghold cabinets for a corner unit, definitely cheaper and also built like a tank, plus plenty of places to get them from.

084_cc.jpg


I'm going to contact Stronhold and see how much that cabinet is.:drool:
I will post it here when I get the quote.:thumbup:

Kevin
 
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SantaFe66

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Outstanding job! Now for the welding table build..........can't wait!

____________________
PAUL
 

5mall5nail5

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Hey Steevo - love your thread, great ideas.

I am looking to make a stand for a 48" pan and brake box and need some square tubing - where do you get yours? Trying not to spend $300 on metal lol.
 

burleyfarm

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Northern Michigan
Steevo

Great workbench.

Any pictures of the finish on your top. I just installed mine and can't decide if I should grind off the black finish and oil or wax it. I'd like to see how yours turned out.
Thanks
 
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Steevo

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I still haven't done anything to the surface, other than wiping it off a few times with a solvent wetted rag when I get oil on it.
It looks the same today as when I built it.
 

Responder

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Saskatoon, SK
You know you have inspired a pile of people with this workbench when the thread continues to go on this long! And yes, I take my hat off to you on the workbench/toolbox idea as well......Great Job!!

The quesiton that I have for you, and all others, is how do you keep the top from getting all cluttered up? I try to keep it "free" of "stuff" but two days later and there seems to be **** on top of it. You know, the things that don't get put away right away, or don't have a home. Guess I just answered my own question now that I read it!!

Love the build :beer:
 

jmait769

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Las Cruces, NM
You know you have inspired a pile of people with this workbench when the thread continues to go on this long!

Here is my Steevo inspired bench! You can see that I pretty much copied Steevo’s design right down to the feet inserts, added metal plate to the outside legs to hide the boxes and just adjusted the dimensions to the boxes.

NG141_zpsc698352c.jpg


NG142_zps73b429ae.jpg


Thanks Steevo for posting this and sharing all of the great details!! Best bench I have ever owned!! :)

Jay
 
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Hot Chop shop

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What an awesome Bench.... So I got myself a welder just to build this bench and think I got the basics down... If I can't weld too pretty I'll for sure get really good at grinding... So I plan on making a smaller version two cabinets with a hole in between to push in a chair... I am a little scared to take off the wheels and make it one long bench cause I don't know how long I will be in this house so I probably should keep it on wheels to make it easier to move then when I get my own house then I can take the wheels off and do more of a permimate setup and also add the fun air lines and 1000pound strong hold cabinets etc. So the question is do I try to cut up my current bench to fit the HF bench under it? Or start from scratch.
 

Hot Chop shop

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what an awesome bench.... So i got myself a welder just to build this bench and think i got the basics down... If i can't weld too pretty i'll for sure get really good at grinding... So i plan on making a smaller version two cabinets with a hole in between to push in a chair... I am a little scared to take off the wheels and make it one long bench cause i don't know how long i will be in this house so i probably should keep it on wheels to make it easier to move then when i get my own house then i can take the wheels off and do more of a permimate setup and also add the fun air lines and 1000pound strong hold cabinets etc. So the question is do i try to cut up my current bench to fit the hf bench under it? Or start from scratch.
image.jpg
 

Hot Chop shop

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Yeah it's only 6 feet long so I was thinking of taking the middle support out and move it over to the 44in mark and putting one of the 44 HF under it then maybe box a second one with a metal top for welding etc...

it's funny I was so proud of this setup.. I got the bench at Sam club and painted it red to match the craftsman cabinets then I found the 12guage garage thread and Steve-O bench thread and now I have to start all over :)
 

alpinewhite

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Yeah it's only 6 feet long so I was thinking of taking the middle support out and move it over to the 44in mark and putting one of the 44 HF under it then maybe box a second one with a metal top for welding etc...
72" - 44" - (2" * 3 legs' width) - (2 * 2" overhang) = 18" left for your stool. Is that going to be enough to put your legs under?
 

Hot Chop shop

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72" - 44" - (2" * 3 legs' width) - (2 * 2" overhang) = 18" left for your stool. Is that going to be enough to put your legs under?

18 left? Hmmm maybe I could fit a knee there or half a stool? Thanks for doing all the math for me... Glad I saw this before I pulled out the grinder and started cutting... So I guess I'll have to start from scratch.
 

mtesh73

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Colts Neck, NJ
awesome build>>>>

extremely well planned and fabricated, really nice work!!

going out and buying a welder tomorrow and some HF boxes this weekend.

steevo, what are doing for tall floor cabinets, if any? i was thinking maybe a set of red ones from HF with the electronic lock flanking the workbench on each side.
 

Hot Chop shop

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I might have missed it in an early thread....but how do you attach the core top to the metal rails? I'm guessing maybe the metal top gets welded to the rails so the wood is just a good filler? Sorry I am new to all this fabrication stuff and the more details the easier it is to recreate this master piece.


Thanks!
 
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Steevo

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I might have missed it in an early thread....but how do you attach the core top to the metal rails? I'm guessing maybe the metal top gets welded to the rails so the wood is just a good filler? Sorry I am new to all this fabrication stuff and the more details the easier it is to recreate this master piece.


Thanks!

The wood door slabs are screwed to the front and rear angle iron rails from underneath.
The steel top is held down by the bolts for the vise that go through both the top and the doors and angle iron underneath, clamping down the steel top.
 

Hot Chop shop

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The wood door slabs are screwed to the front and rear angle iron rails from underneath.
The steel top is held down by the bolts for the vise that go through both the top and the doors and angle iron underneath, clamping down the steel top.

Thanks for the info it's a huge help.
I picked up a chop saw today now just need to plan out my bench before I start cutting and welding... Thinking about maybe adding a hitch for adding a grinder and vise... That makes things a little more complicated but should be a fun learning experience. Thanks for the inspiration sir!:beer:
 

Hot Chop shop

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Hammer it? Grind it? Start over? Or.....?

Looking for some quick feedback from the smart kids.... (Quick background about me I am new to a lot of this fun stuff but have found this website and its been insipiring to take on as much DIY'ering as I can... And to do that I need a sweet garage)

So here's my question I borrowed Stevo's HF bench plans and did some terrible calculations... And it looks like the bench top is off by almost a half of an inch to make it flush with the frame... I think I can hammer the lip part sticking out down and over or even grind it flush or when i weld the front angle lip on i could have it raised a little... or I could start from scratch... Any other ideas welcomed...:bowdown:

image.jpg
 

Dennis93

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Va Beach, VA
I have the weirdest question in the world. Why go through all the expense and trouble of making those chests into a cabinet on stands. Why not simply leave them on their casters and put a top on it? That way if you ever need to move it you can lift the top off with a bunch of friends and roll the cabs away. Or even better roll the whole thing away. I just don't see the point of taking it off casters.

Im sure I'm missing something. But nice work not bashing it at all!
 

alpinewhite

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Re: Hammer it? Grind it? Start over? Or.....?

Looking for some quick feedback from the smart kids.... (Quick background about me I am new to a lot of this fun stuff but have found this website and its been insipiring to take on as much DIY'ering as I can... And to do that I need a sweet garage)

So here's my question I borrowed Stevo's HF bench plans and did some terrible calculations... And it looks like the bench top is off by almost a half of an inch to make it flush with the frame... I think I can hammer the lip part sticking out down and over or even grind it flush or when i weld the front angle lip on i could have it raised a little... or I could start from scratch... Any other ideas welcomed...:bowdown:

image.jpg
How about using spacers made from plate steel.
 

Hot Chop shop

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Re: Hammer it? Grind it? Start over? Or.....?

First I am still learning the rules here so I don't know if posting my problems in a separate thread or here is okay...I don't want to take away from Stevo's great thread but I figured I could get the most help from the folks who read the thread that inspired me to copy... I'll learn all the rules sooner or later:headscrat


I have the weirdest question in the world. Why go through all the expense and trouble of making those chests into a cabinet on stands. Why not simply leave them on their casters and put a top on it? That way if you ever need to move it you can lift the top off with a bunch of friends and roll the cabs away. Or even better roll the whole thing away. I just don't see the point of taking it off casters.

Im sure I'm missing something. But nice work not bashing it at all!
Dennis93 I have to ask... are you by any chance my neighbor from across the street under a fake name??? Cause he came over and said the same thing (several times)... And he also suggested adding a kick plate in front of the casters if I wanted to hide them... I guess I just really like the idea of building a bench that is really solid and that i could stand on and set a motor on... But the more I learn to weld the more i am learning the need to clamp "the work" (recently learned that lingo) at crazy angles makes me rethink adding a metal top to this bench cause I'll prob end up making a dedicated welding table, since all the sparks keep cratering my pretty wood butcher block.

How about using spacers made from plate steel.
Hahaha... It's funny cause I was playing around adding some washers and some nuts and some thick bolts to fabricate some spacers... I guess I could just cut some 1/2 inch square tubing on each corner and weld them... But I kind of like the idea of the bench top supported evenly across the frame instead of little 1/2 spacers... Keep in mind I have no clue what I am talking about regarding metal working or structural engineering... But seriously thanks for the feedback!
 
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Steevo

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I have the weirdest question in the world. Why go through all the expense and trouble of making those chests into a cabinet on stands. Why not simply leave them on their casters and put a top on it? That way if you ever need to move it you can lift the top off with a bunch of friends and roll the cabs away. Or even better roll the whole thing away. I just don't see the point of taking it off casters.

Im sure I'm missing something. But nice work not bashing it at all!

Here are a few of the reasons behind why I built mine this way:

1. The tool boxes are only about 18" deep, so any top resting on just the box(es) would not be able to be much deeper than that. A workbench frame can be much deeper, allowing a standard depth bench top.
2. If you set several rolling boxes in a row, the tops will only be as even as the variations in the floor allow. This means any top set over them will not be resting fully on all of the boxes all the time, and may "rock" or tilt as you use it. Also, if it is in a typical home garage, the floor slopes toward the door, making your bench top slope as well, which is extremely annoying when working with things that roll away.
3. The tops of the rolling tool boxes have a rim around three sides, which would require setting a wood slab or spacer inside the rim, then laying the top over that. With the rolling cabinet being 40" high on its wheels, by the time you have a good, solid top on that, your bench height would be well over 41" off the floor.
4. A steel frame, resting on leveled feet, which sit directly on the concrete floor can support a much greater load than a toolbox alone, and can do so much more solidly.
5. If you use the top of the box(es) to support a bench on which you mount a heavy vise, and then pound on things in the vise, you are beating down on the structure of the tool cabinet, which will eventually weaken or break the cabinet itself.
6. A HF tool cabinet with no wheels is a HELL of a lot cheaper than a Lista, Vidmar, Lyon or other industrial drawer cabinet, which is probably what we'd all use if we were wealthy.
 
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IONH

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Re: Hammer it? Grind it? Start over? Or.....?

Dennis93 I have to ask... are you by any chance my neighbor from across the street under a fake name???

Interested to hear 'Dennis' response.

But really, aren't we all here under fake names? News flash, my name nor initials are IONH. :3gears:
 
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Steevo

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Re: Hammer it? Grind it? Start over? Or.....?

Looking for some quick feedback from the smart kids.... (Quick background about me I am new to a lot of this fun stuff but have found this website and its been insipiring to take on as much DIY'ering as I can... And to do that I need a sweet garage)

So here's my question I borrowed Stevo's HF bench plans and did some terrible calculations... And it looks like the bench top is off by almost a half of an inch to make it flush with the frame... I think I can hammer the lip part sticking out down and over or even grind it flush or when i weld the front angle lip on i could have it raised a little... or I could start from scratch... Any other ideas welcomed...:bowdown:

image.jpg

Are the uprights interconnected by a front-to-back horizontal piece of tubing near the tops? (they should be).

Why not just use some 2" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" angle across the front and back of the top of the legs? That should get you high enough to clear the rim of the boxes and support the top material.
 

Hot Chop shop

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image.jpg
(Haven't figured out how to send multiple pics from my iPhone/iPad)
So here is a look at the frame before I set the cabinet in it... I appreciate all the feedback... The plan was to box each cabinet separate and bolt the front rail across the top so that when the day comes to move it I unbolt the butcher block top and move each cabinet separate kind of like two separate sides of a desk the top connects them both and there is a 30inch hole between to push in a stool...
And that was the prob with keeping the wheels on it would have been too high for a comfortable work space...

Anyways since I messed up this one already and have to box in the other cabinet I think it makes more sense to start over and make template to weld
All 4 frames identical... If I start spacing this one and adjusted the front and rear rail to fit the box and cut a hole
In the front rail for the key lock ill have to do the other side just like it... Not like it will be too hard to mess up again?
 
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