High Bay replacement LED Driver, what to get?

[Dragster Racer]

I ended up with some high bay led fixtures which work great for my height of shop. Previous owner said he had some reliability issues with them. So am I.
So I took one that quit apart, and the driver is getting input voltage, but outputting nothing.
Original driver has 100-240 input voltage and max 1.2 a
output dc 2.4-3.0a, and 37 V. 100W

As I do some shopping, I don't see any 37V outputs.
I and using 110V input.

Any help where to get affordable replacements?

 

[cybrdyke]

I ended up with some high bay led fixtures which work great for my height of shop. Previous owner said he had some reliability issues with them. So am I.
So I took one that quit apart, and the driver is getting input voltage, but outputting nothing.
Original driver has 100-240 input voltage and max 1.2 a
output dc 2.4-3.0a, and 37 V

As I do some shopping, I don't see any 37V outputs.
I and using 110V input.

Any help where to get affordable replacements?

You're gonna have to get it from the manufacturer of the fixture.
Should have a 5 year warranty.
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

Need to determine exactly what output the LED array is intended to be run at.
Posting a pic of the driver label might help.
Are they constant current or constant voltage drivers?
Are these programmable drivers - meaning: is the output adjustable by some means?

Edit: or yeah, as CD said, (but that's the logical correct easy way).

 

[Dragster Racer]

You're gonna have to get it from the manufacturer of the fixture.
CD

****, No markings indicating who the manufacture company is.

 

[Dragster Racer]

Need to determine exactly what output the LED array is intended to be run at.
Posting a pic of the driver label might help.
Are they constant current or constant voltage drivers?
Are these programmable drivers - meaning: is the output adjustable by some means?

no adjustment
lable info
mode no: hpz-ktswp-87a14
output dc 2.4-3.0 a max 37v
input ac 100-240v max 1.2 a max 120w
cos >=0.95

ligt itself is marked ra?75
ip65

 

[Dragster Racer]

That's all there is

 

[Platonic Solid]

So you don't know the fixture manufacturer either? Pics of the fixture might help.

 

[Dragster Racer]

So you don't know the fixture manufacturer either? Pics of the fixture might help.

No name on them. I can take pictures, but I have written everything that is on them.

 

[cybrdyke]

Unfortunately, replacing drivers isnt like replacing ballasts. There's too many variables in LED technology to know what you need...exactly.
I see this alot.
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

Take volt and amp readings from an existing functional driver output.

Or the near impossible task of attempting to identify the LED manufacturer and figure out how they are grouped (electrically connected) - example: 72 XYZ LEDs arranged in 6 parallel groups of 12 series. Or maybe there's something printed on the LED array itself.

The picture of the fixture request is a shot in the dark attempt that maybe someone recognizes it as ABC brand.

 

[Dragster Racer]

 

[Dragster Racer]

I will find one working to get the output voltage. How do you find the output amperage? Clamp on?

 

[Bert_]

I will find one working to get the output voltage. How do you find the output amperage? Clamp on?

Current (amps) is the main thing you are worried about measuring here since this appears to be a constant current driver. Most clamp meters only measure AC and wont work on this since the output is DC. I would use a meter that can be put in series with the load and set it to ~10 amp range

I'd be careful about spending to much money on a replacement ballast. That light looks kinda low end and who knows how long the LED chips will last. It might be fine but who knows...

 

[Platonic Solid]

If the fixture and/or driver have UL labels then they will have UL file numbers (beginning with "E") that can be searched on the UL Online Certifications Directory (link). Though I see no UL marking on the driver which leads me to believe the fixture isn't UL Listed either.

That's a single COB LED (cluster of really tiny LEDs manufactured directly onto the PCB). No way to figure out it's rating unless it's printed on the PCB somewhere.

 

[cybrdyke]

I will find one working to get the output voltage. How do you find the output amperage? Clamp on?

You're wasting your time.
You already know that either the driver or the diode isn't working. Most likely the driver and a replacement isn't likely. Doesn't matter which part is bad, finding a replacement is gonna be nearly impossible.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

I'm pretty sure you can adjust the MeanWell HLG-120H-42 (link) current and voltage to run the LED, but not too sure it will fit in your housing.

 

[cybrdyke]

I'm pretty sure you can adjust the MeanWell HLG-120H-42 (link) current and voltage to run the LED, but not too sure it will fit in your housing.

Hmmm....
I read it to say you can adjust voltage OR current but not both at once. Plus, we still dont know the drive current of the existing...
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

You can adjust both at once. They're very touchy in the voltage adjustment - just the weight of the tiny screwdriver you need to adjust them on the trim pot affects the voltage output. Just need to measure an existing fixture for the correct outputs.

 

[Dragster Racer]

Well for the time being I put up some t8 4' fixtures I had taken down from the basement when I finished it.

I have a bunch of fixtures in this shop. I never have been really satisfied with the amount of light in there. I think I have 30 fixtures in this 40x40x16' shop. Many of them were from Home Depot, and I think those are the ones I am least pleased with. All bulbs are daylight level, I just don't remember the K rating. I have two LED 4' fixtures from SAM's, and I'm not at all impressed with those. They are a softer light for sure and not as much light as I hoped.

I don't know if I want to gamble $50 on these. Could be great but may be a waste.

 

[Platonic Solid]

No surprise you're not satisfied - you have 16ft ceilings. 9 of these 3x3 pattern spaced 13'4" apart (center to center) will give you 74fc @ 30" workplane. total cost $900 (link)

 

[Dragster Racer]

No surprise you're not satisfied - you have 16ft ceilings. 9 of these 3x3 pattern spaced 13'4" apart (center to center) will give you 74fc @ 30" workplane. total cost $900 (link)

Those look great. How many lumens do you figure the t8's I am using put out? Or those led's that I have been struggling with? I could use those that you linked strategically at first for areas where I need additional lighting.

 

[Platonic Solid]

You didn't provide any real info on the T8's so I'll guess that they're typical F32T8 2-lamp strip lights which can output around 5300 lumens. Don't know whether you have a reflector or painted walls and ceiling or mounting them lower than 16ft. Without a reflector half those lumens never make it to the ground. With a reflector I'll guess 75% of those lumens make it to the ground. So averaging all assumptions together gives me 4000 usable lumens per fixture.

Another stab in the dark with your LED fixture = 11,000 lumens per fixture.

Rather than doing a piecemeal install of new general lighting fixtures, you'll be much happier if you just install all 9 in one shot. When using few high output fixtures in a large space they all need to work together as a team to reduce shadows. Remove 1 of the 9 fixtures and the layout will fail you.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I get what you are saying. But the area is lit and as you can imagine with that number of fixtures, no dark areas now. So the incentive to invest in 9 at once is low. But as I lose more of these current led's, those that you linked will be going in!

 

[Dragster Racer]

I suppose if you had really high ceilings these would be good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZS6NHR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[American Locomotive]

You're wasting your time.
You already know that either the driver or the diode isn't working. Most likely the driver and a replacement isn't likely. Doesn't matter which part is bad, finding a replacement is gonna be nearly impossible.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
CD

Uh, LED's are pretty simple. They're just powered by constant-current power supplies. Find a power supply in the voltage range for your LEDs (determined by how many LED dies are in series), and then sort by current.

A simple ebay search for "100w 3a led driver" yields hundreds of results, all of which will power this particular fixture just fine.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+driver.TRS0&_nkw=100w+3a+led+driver&_sacat=0

 

[Platonic Solid]

Dragster Racer - Mounting height is determined via beam spread, spacing criteria and lumen output. Need an actual IES file to determine proper mounting height. I'm not a fan of the UFO fixture design as all the heat from the LEDs goes straight up into the driver. I wouldn't expect the driver of a fixture like that to last longer than 3 years. The linear fixtures spread the heat over a larger surface which keeps them from cooking the driver.

 

[Dragster Racer]

Dragster Racer - Mounting height is determined via beam spread, spacing criteria and lumen output. Need an actual IES file to determine proper mounting height. I'm not a fan of the UFO fixture design as all the heat from the LEDs goes straight up into the driver. I wouldn't expect the driver of a fixture like that to last longer than 3 years. The linear fixtures spread the heat over a larger surface which keeps them from cooking the driver.

That may account for the driver failures on the style I have now. You wouldn't think that an LED that puts out limited heat, with a huge aluminum heat sink on top, would transfer that much heat to the driver. Well, I wouldn't have.

 

[Dragster Racer]

Uh, LED's are pretty simple. They're just powered by constant-current power supplies. Find a power supply in the voltage range for your LEDs (determined by how many LED dies are in series), and then sort by current.

A simple ebay search for "100w 3a led driver" yields hundreds of results, all of which will power this particular fixture just fine.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+driver.TRS0&_nkw=100w+3a+led+driver&_sacat=0

At that price one of those may be worth the experiment anyhow.

 

[Dragster Racer]

No surprise you're not satisfied - you have 16ft ceilings. 9 of these 3x3 pattern spaced 13'4" apart (center to center) will give you 74fc @ 30" workplane. total cost $900 (link)

I ordered one of these lights last weekend. Do they build them to order? Doesn't look like it will ship this week. Amazon has hightened our expectations of delivery.

 

[Dragster Racer]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R1Y4VM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Ever seen these?

 

[Dragster Racer]

I ordered one of these lights last weekend. Do they build them to order? Doesn't look like it will ship this week. Amazon has hightened our expectations of delivery.

Got an email that it shipped today. Will see it next week.
Still curious about the amazon one I posted.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I ordered one of these lights last weekend. Do they build them to order? Doesn't look like it will ship this week. Amazon has hightened our expectations of delivery.

Hung the light when it came in. Very pleased. I will be buying more. The shop has lots of light. But these really deliver usable intense light. Just right for working.