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High lift door conversion advice

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AndyL

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But you'll be changing to drums with a larger OD, and larger offset flags/headplates/etc.

The basic answer - is yes it's possible to keep the drums/spring low and continue the track, but most installers wouldn't be able to do it (i think that simple DNS+63"-HL formula scares them). As it's not described in the instruction manual and requires a little thinking :)
 
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NitroShark

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Thanks, I figured if I even have to move it up a foot for clearance it would be better for maintenance than being 14ft in the air. I'm still not sure why you need 6 inch drums when 4 would be less torque on the shaft. what's the reason behind that?

Shawn
 

AndyL

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Gearing; as the door climbs it's working its way down the raised portion, (as spring unwinds - torque is falling off - thus you need the gearing advantage to maintain the same torque output (weights remaining constant)) then as the top roller transitions onto the horizontal, you're using the natural reduction in torque to do the same (thus that section of the drum is flat).

There's no reason you can't do it - it's just not typically done. Will require you pull together an assortment of shall we say less standard parts to accommodate the change.

Don't forget every inch you push out at the bottom - will be magnified higher up; so pulling an inch out at 9' could be a foot+ at the ceiling.
 
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NitroShark

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Ok, I got a 65inch HL kit coming w/dual springs (doing 2- 8X9) doors. all commercial parts and 8500 liftmaster. I'm just looking at my choices to re-mount or leave the drum bar where it is now. I have 15ft ceiling height.
 

AndyL

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Depends on the hardware set they send; could be really simple, could be a major pain in the tookus.

Is it that DDM (?) system that I've seen others around here use?
 
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NitroShark

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Talk to both DDM and DIY.. DDM web page is wonderful, but when talking to the order clerk on the phone and email I didn't feel as comfortable with the answers as DIY.

I wanted a custom engineered solution and sometimes I get a little carried away but, I think I'm heading in the right direction. :)


Paid $700 shipped for 2 65 inch HLift kits.

http://www.diygaragerepair.com/High-Lift-Garage-Door-Track-s/345.htm


Shawn
 

AndyL

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Did you order with the angle mount or bracket mount?

If you've got the wall angle, it's relatively simple/straight forward... Other than modifying cable length (but you can buy a replacement set from any decent door dealer)
 
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NitroShark

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This is the kit, but I also added the proper springs. It will be here next week then I will check the mounting... Shawn



Description


High Lift Conversion Kits Comes Complete with the Following Parts.

•High Lift Drums - Calculated to lift and balance your garage door properly
•Custom Length Cables - Cut to fit the exact dimensions of your garage door
•High Lift Garage Door Track Extensions up to 120" & doors up to 550lbs

•Splice Plates
•Jamb Brackets
•Horizontal Angle Extension
•Fasteners
•Comes Assembled and Ready to Install
•Torsion Springs
 

AndyL

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yeah shoot me a picture once you get it in your hot little hands - hard to guess off website pictures, as to what you'll actually receive...
 
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NitroShark

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I received 4 springs total and 4 drums and 4 cables to the picture below. Everything looks assembled. Might need a bracket for the 4 to 6 inch cable drum conversion.

Shawn

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NitroShark

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I wanted to show the final results for both my doors. I really like the liftmasters. the door clears the ceiling by 1 inch ;) I mounted things a little different from the conventional for MAX lift... :beer:

Shawn


Below is one door as I started with

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Results below

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NitroShark

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..moved everything out and put an epoxy coating down. High lift is working out great with the 8500 lift masters.

Shawn


Floor project and re-arranged just started...


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Cannonball

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When they say pictures are worth a thousand words they mean it.
Now I really understand what "high lift" means and why a kit is needed.
If any one has any experience, I want to install my 9' high door as close to the ceiling as possible. With the header thickness of 1' plus the extra height from the truss heels and vault which will be about 6" to 8" where the rails rise, this means the side rails will have to come up an extra foot to hug the ceiling.
If I purchase longer side rails, will the existing supplied hardware (springs and drums) still work for this?
 
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NitroShark

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Don't know if this helps, but that's a 8X9 door with a 175 inch high ceiling. I got the door about 2 inches away from the ceiling with a 65inch high lift kit.

Notice I put the 6" drums under the top rail and not over like most do. That got me the extra door height I was looking for.

Shawn
 

Pluribus

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Skagit County, WA
Thanks, NitroShark, for the detailed posting and photos! That will help me in planning my lift/door area. Would I be close in guessing that you ended up with about 3" from the ceiling to the inside of the raised door and about 6" from the ceiling to the bottom of your support brackets?
 

Cannonball

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I purchased the door for cheap off Kijiji as it was an inside divider wall in a music shop.
The track set up was a bit different, it had a a double track on the horizontal.
I think this was done so that the top of the door moved away quickly to clear the beam that was in the way.
I don't think I will need the double track as I have 16" to 18" above the top of the door.
Thanks for the info. on the torsion bar placement. Will do the same to get the door as high as possible.
Just need to find out if the stock diameter drums and springs will work for an extra 12" of lift of the door.
 

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