High lift door conversion

[scoob8000]

I went thru this way back when I had the garage built 8 years ago. 12 ft ceilings, 16x8 garage door.

I'm finally pulling the trigger on buying a lift. And while the door won't be in the way too bad, I'd prefer better clearance.

I only got one company to come take a look, but they're really pushing me to replace the door with something more sturdy. It's a decent door I feel like, single sided, insulated, etc. Plus it's only 8 years old. I also already have a jackshaft opener on it (liftmaster 8500) Haven't got the quote yet, but we're figuring it's going to be a couple grand just for the door.

That said are they blowing smoke up my rear trying to sell me a new door? I'm pretty handy with most things, but I really don't like the idea of messing around with torsion springs.

Thoughts?

 

[u2slow]

The high lift tracks (extensions) were an add-on for my door. Supplied when I bought the door kit. It added 4'; cut them down for less.

Of course they want to sell you a new door.

 

[CraigStu]

The high lift tracks (extensions) were an add-on for my door. Supplied when I bought the door kit. It added 4'; cut them down for less.

Of course they want to sell you a new door.

I agree. I think you need to say, I am not buying a new door so can we now talk about what I do want to buy.

 

[Glemon]

You don't need a new door. I don't know how much extra lift you are looking for, I added about 18" by putting in extensions and cranking up the torsion springs. I know not considered the correct way to do it, I think some would recommend new springs or spools, but has worked fine for nearly two years now.
Shown in the pic, was more work putting the jackshaft opener in, you are over halfway there

 

[scoob8000]

You don't need a new door. I don't know how much extra lift you are looking for, I added about 18" by putting in extensions and cranking up the torsion springs. I know not considered the correct way to do it, I think some would recommend new springs or spools, but has worked fine for nearly two years now.
Shown in the pic, was more work putting the jackshaft opener in, you are over halfway there

That's what I figure. Where did you get the extensions, or make them yourself?

I'd like to get 2-3 feet of more lift. More so when the door is open, less of it is hanging out in to the garage. I'll probably be fine with my lift, as long as I keep it far forward in the garage as I can. But I went with a taller lift and even without a car on it, the posts won't clear the door when it's up the whole way.

 

[firebirdparts]

The last thing on earth I'd want in that situation is a heavier door. I say no.

I did my own, and I understand how the door works, so no problem making accommodations. There are some limits about what you can do; If the door goes straight up, then you truly do need the drums designed for going straight up and you truly do need a torsion spring door that can use them, or else you'd need a gravity counterweight to make that work well. If the door goes up at an angle, I don't think anybody really makes a drum shaped for that. You are stuck with an imperfect solution in that case as far as I know.

 

[u2slow]

That's what I figure. Where did you get the extensions, or make them yourself?

In my case... it's bulk track with more wall brackets, and a couple extra joiner plates.

 

[wssix99]

It's a decent door I feel like, single sided, insulated, etc. Plus it's only 8 years old.

What brand is the door? You should be able to call the company up and get a new set of tracks, springs, and drums from them. You should be able to get the proper parts without doing paranormal things to your door that will stress out your current springs or risk your limbs during the install. ... But this is the do-it-yourself route.

An installer isn't going to deal with your mix-n-match and risk all the grief that can come with something not being right or fitting. That is why they are insisting on a new factory set of tracks and doors. If you are paying someone else to install the door, (considering the installation cost) this is going to be the path of least resistance and cost for you. In the end, buying a new door essentially lowers your installation cost.

 

[scoob8000]

What brand is the door? You should be able to call the company up and get a new set of tracks, springs, and drums from them. You should be able to get the proper parts without doing paranormal things to your door that will stress out your current springs or risk your limbs during the install. ... But this is the do-it-yourself route.

An installer isn't going to deal with your mix-n-match and risk all the grief that can come with something not being right or fitting. That is why they are insisting on a new factory set of tracks and doors. If you are paying someone else to install the door, (considering the installation cost) this is going to be the path of least resistance and cost for you. In the end, buying a new door essentially lowers your installation cost.

Well that said the original guy just called to give me a price. $5,800. I about fell over. I told him that's out of the question.

Got another shop coming out to take a look and give me a quote.

The door is a Haas door.

 

[tstaude]

I am up against the same thing pretty soon here, I have two 10x10 doors. One will be regular lift and one will be high lift by about 2'.

One thing is that the spools/drums will be slightly different and you may need new springs. I bought my doors used so it will be a little guessing game to get everything to sit perfectly on each one. Both came with high lift spools so I had do buy one standard pair

 

[wssix99]

Well that said the original guy just called to give me a price. $5,800. I about fell over. I told him that's out of the question.

Got another shop coming out to take a look and give me a quote.

The door is a Haas door.

I would call Haas. They will be able to tell you if their high lift tracks are even an option for your door.

The installation cost is such a large coponent that the door is essentially disposable.

We have three doors. I installed them in a day with my wife and we saved a ton of money. When we got to the torsion springs, I did the winding on the ladder and she stood by, watched, and was ready to call 911. There are some good videos online for the spring winding and as long as you take your time and buy some good winding bars, all should be good.

 

[Earp69]

I converted my 10x10 door from regular lift to high lift and it's not as easy as one may think to do it correctly. I needed new drums, springs and cables along with the track. You can slap some **** together to make it functional but cranking your old springs tighter creates an unbalanced door and springs that wear out quicker. Im a do it right not do it twice person. Springs are simple enough to wind

 

[Glemon]

That's what I figure. Where did you get the extensions, or make them yourself?

I'd like to get 2-3 feet of more lift. More so when the door is open, less of it is hanging out in to the garage. I'll probably be fine with my lift, as long as I keep it far forward in the garage as I can. But I went with a taller lift and even without a car on it, the posts won't clear the door when it's up the whole way.

I got the extensions from my brother, who did a similar job years ago and kept some of the extra pieces but here is a link to some extra track pieces. https://www.menards.com/main/hardwa...049-c-7577.htm?tid=3022358242022688042&ipos=4

I was only going up an extra 18" or so, didn't worry too much about modifying drums or cables. If you were going three feet you might want to get a little more scientific about it. If you go the diy route and get new springs, go for the ones that have a screw drive, you wind them with a power drill, easy. $5k for such a job seems more than a little crazy to me

 

[mmb617]

I'm not sure why several posters mentioned buying extra track sections. You still need the same amount of track, it just needs reconfigured. Instead of going straight up then back after it reaches the top of the door it goes straight up to the top of the door then up a couple feet more more at a slight angle then back. Still the same length of track. I simply cut track off the back and welded it in at an angle where needed. I did not have to buy any extra track.

I did however have a professional shop figure out what I needed as far as cables, springs, drums and cones. I gave them the info on door weight, height and amount of high lift that they asked for and bought all those parts for under $200, but that was 11 years ago so prices would surely be higher now. I did not need to buy a new door.

I did this conversion 11 years ago and haven't had any problems with it yet.

 

[racecougar]

Well that said the original guy just called to give me a price. $5,800. I about fell over. I told him that's out of the question.

Got another shop coming out to take a look and give me a quote.

The door is a Haas door.

That guy is insane. I had Overhead Door Company come out two years ago and convert the 16x7' door on my attached garage to a 9' track. Total cost for the new hardware (drums, cables, springs, track extensions, etc.) and labor was under $300. I handled the operator myself.