High Lift Door Question

[genericwood]

I apologize if this has been covered before. On Monday, I will finally install the 2-post lift I've been desiring for years! Now I need to get the garage door out of the way. I understand that I can install additional vertical track to move it closer to the 13' ceiling. But this would require remounting the spring/cable system and a different type of opener. What I am considering is simply changing the bend on the track from 90 degrees to 45 degrees. This would carry the back of the door (when raised) right up to the ceiling, but wouldn't require remounting anything other than the tracks. Am I missing something that would make this a poor idea? Of course this would require also mouting the opener (not yet installed) at an angle as well. Any problems with this?

Thanks in advance for being kind in your responses!

Erik

 

[ovilla]

I've seen this set up before many times in pics. I bet the most you'd need to do is just add another couple of turns to the overhead torsion spring to make sure the door is still well balanced when open. When fully open the door should be able to support itself and not be falling down. Best of luck!

 

[genericwood]

Thanks ovilla. I spent some more time looking at everything today and I'm now pretty sure it will be the easiest way.

Erik

 

[LVDell]

I had my garage door tracks taken to the ceiling to accommodate my lift. When this was done I was told by the installer that you can do what you are thinking as long as you get the appropriate springs. My suggestion is to call a few garage door repair companies and ask if they do FREE estimates and if so get a PROFESSIONAL opinion and an idea what it will cost. I had several companies give me quotes and there was two schools of thought.

More expensive way: Add an extra door panel(s) since you do NOT want the door hanging (straight up or even 45 degrees) and the doors bending over the 90 degree bend help relive the stress off the opener.

More cost effective (however, still not significantly cheaper): change out the springs to assist with the weight stress now placed on the motor.

Bottom line is that I would get a pro out to look at what you want to do and offer suggestions with pricing.

 

[kbs2244]

The only problem I see is that the cables will be under tension even with the door up.
I doubt this will be a big deal since they are under a lot more tension when the door is down.

 

[PurdueSD]

I believe this will require a tapered spring. Call your overhead door supplier, they should be able to tell you.

 

[logical]

My ceiling is just under 13'...no reason for "special" openers...just an extra door panel and an arm extension from the trolley to the door.

 

[JohnZ]

My ceiling is just under 13'...no reason for "special" openers...just an extra door panel and an arm extension from the trolley to the door.

I had exactly the same thing done to get my 18' x 8' sectional door up to 8" from my 12' ceiling - my garage door guy did it for less than $400.

 

[jayoldschool]

I plan to go the same route as the last two pics. Do I need to raise my spring up to the roof like that, or can it stay right above the door?

 

[ScaldedDog]

Pardon the thread interruption, but do you need the extra door panel of you're using a jackshaft door opener?

Mark

 

[JohnZ]

I plan to go the same route as the last two pics. Do I need to raise my spring up to the roof like that, or can it stay right above the door?

You'll probably need to move it, or the door will hit it; the vertical track extensions will keep the door closer to the wall until higher in the lift path.

 

[JohnZ]

Pardon the thread interruption, but do you need the extra door panel of you're using a jackshaft door opener?

Mark

No, you don't - but the added top panel eliminates having to buy a new opener - you can use the same one you have now.

 

[ScaldedDog]

No, you don't - but the added top panel eliminates having to buy a new opener - you can use the same one you have now.

Thanks! I happen to be in the market for a couple of openers, anyway, so your answer is very helpful to me.

Mark

 

[jimmerz]

Sorry to hi-jack this thread, but it sounds similar to my current situation:

My house is in the process of being built. It is a newer model and I might be one of the first customers to notice this and complain.

I have an attached garage. From floor to ceiling it appears to be somewhere in the 13-15' range (plenty of height) The door is a standard 7 foot x 16 foot door. HERE IS THE PROBLEM -

From my kitchen looking into my garage, I can stand in the doorway and reach out to grab the garage door track at chest level....NOT GOOD. My builder is working with the garage door company and so far they think they can remedy the situation by using an 8ft door instead of a 7ft door. (they will have to re-frame my garage door opening). I suggested maybe just extending the vertical tracks 3 feet and that should be perfect. They said they can not do that? I want the track completely Above my doorway so there is not obstruction period. Does anyone have any suggestions I can make to them so that this gets worked out and I am 100% happy...

Thanks, Jim

 

[Junkman]

If you have that amount of hight, and they are considering re framing the door opening, then have them do a 10' high door. The work to re frame is the same to add 1' or 3'. The only other thing to consider is to have the door move as close to the ceiling as possible. That way, if you ever decide to get a 4 post lift, you can roll it outside the garage without any effort, and the higher door will give you lots of overhead clearance. Also make sure that the door that they install isn't one of the cheap uninsulated ones. I saw a garage door that was so flimsy, that it bent with the effort of the door opener pulling on it. It was thin stamped steel door in new home construction..

 

[e-tek]

Does anyone have any suggestions I can make to them so that this gets worked out and I am 100% happy...

Thanks, Jim

ya - show them the above pics and tell them to get er done right - or else!

 

[jimmerz]

If you have that amount of hight, and they are considering re framing the door opening, then have them do a 10' high door. The work to re frame is the same to add 1' or 3'. The only other thing to consider is to have the door move as close to the ceiling as possible. That way, if you ever decide to get a 4 post lift, you can roll it outside the garage without any effort, and the higher door will give you lots of overhead clearance. Also make sure that the door that they install isn't one of the cheap uninsulated ones. I saw a garage door that was so flimsy, that it bent with the effort of the door opener pulling on it. It was thin stamped steel door in new home construction..

I thought about the 10' but I think in my neighborhood my house might look silly! I will not be getting a 4 post lift. Here is a picture, pre-garage.

 

[nova65ss]

I imagine it will not pass code like that and will need to have some high lift added to get the track out of the way. We do it here all the time. If the door guys can't figure it out find a new one.

 

[Junkman]

I thought about the 10' but I think in my neighborhood my house might look silly! I will not be getting a 4 post lift. Here is a picture, pre-garage.

I might have agreed with you until I saw the pictures. The garage is set off to the side, and with the wide opening, it will look fine. I know you say that you won't be getting a lift, but you never know. One thing that I can say in support of your statement, is that with a driveway that is pointed downhill, rolling it outside isn't going to be an option..

 

[ebfabman]

Maybe here too...