How high is your door (opening), how high is the ceiling between the door and the beam, and how high is the beam?
general considerations: As you figure out how to get your high-lift door, you'll want to know how far back into the garage space it will go. If the door tracks can sit 6" below ceiling height, and it's a 7' tall door, the total space needed will be somewhere around 10'. So with your 4' from beam to wall, is there 6' from the top of the opening to the ceiling? If so, you can probably fit the door in that space.
For your situation with the beam immediately inside the door opening, you can slant the track so the door passes under the beam on its way to the ceiling behind the beam. You'll do some creative sectioining of the track pieces to get the angles right. Just keep in mind that the door only 'bends' one way, so you can't make it turn towards the ceiling behind the beam; it can only angle up to it. At the top of the door, the highest roller needs some sloped track so it sits tight against the openeing at full-closed position, yet pulls immediately away as soon as the door moves off of full-closed position. Keep that joint as high as possible, just below that to roller. Depending on how high and how far away from the front wall the back of the beam is, you may be able to just use a straight section of track, joining the main section just below where the top roller sita at full-closed position. It needs to pass the bottom rear edge of the beam with enough room for the door to fit, and that dimension depends ultimately on how close you get that lower to where the top roller sits; the further the roller is from the connection, the longer the top roller will be from the door, and the more clearance you'll need between track and the beam.
After that, the transition from the sloped section to the horizontal ceiling track uses part of the usual almost-90º curved sections. Depending on the actual angle of the front sloped sections, you may or may not want to use the remaining curved pieces at the connection right at the top of the door.
The toughest challenge for our door installers seemed to be getting the right pulley and cable setup with the right springs. But the home-office guys at Overhead Door were able to work it out once I sent them the track layout drawings, and both doors work perfectly now. If you are retrofitting an existing door for the high-lift setup, plan on getting new pulleys/cables/springs since the load on them will be way different than a traditional installation.
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I worked with the building contractor on my current garage/workbay to make sure I would have lift clearance. I have a support header that runs across five feet inside the door, but above ceiling height. Ceiling height is adequate for my tallest car on the lift, but there wasn't going to be room for lights and the door above the car. We did some creative framing to make a partial 'cathedral' ceiling section that follows the roofline between the front wall and that beam, then engineered the door tracks to follow the sloped section. Besides getting the door completely out of the way, it allowed for lights supported below the opened door so no shadow from the door.
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We love the 8500 openers, and planned for them from the start. Power and low-voltage wiring for safety lights and the remote station went in during prep. I ended up fishing in the low-voltage wiring for the cable tension switches and the lock solenoids. If you have the chance to put that stuff in the wall before it's finished, it will clean up your install a lot.
