high lift garage door

[thunders]

I have a 13 ' high lift garage door that opens 12-1/2' and I need it to open the full opening. I am using a 2x4 to hold it open to the full opening so I can get my camper in an out . The cables prevent the full opening and my installer said a automatic opener would open it to the 13' heigth but I don't have room due to the jack shaft is to close to the door next to it. Does anyone have any idea to manually open it without using a 2x4 or some kind of idiot device so I cant forget to prop it open so I don't pull out and rip the AC off ?

 

[jstroede]

So the door is 13' high and not a high lift, but just a standard lift and the door doesn't clear the opening? That's what I am reading here, but I just want to make sure. Pics would help for sure.

John

 

[thunders]

Hi john. Here is a picture of the track, the cable pulls the door back open.

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[Hot Rod Grampa]

You have a low headroom system. Installer was correct it will always droop. Shaft style opener will not open it more. You need to go to a trolley type opener that will pull the door the last few inches.

 

[thunders]

I don't think I have room for a opener. I have three 12' wide doors on a 40' wide pole barn and the shafts almost touch. Looks like propping it open with a 2x4 may be my only option.

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[MrSurly]

There may be a way to arrange something more ‘elegant’ than a two-by but, yes some sort of manual operation is needed.

BTW: the low headroom set up is pretty much the *opposite of a high-lift system.
Just for reference clarity


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[thunders]

Thank you, now I know I have a low headroom set up. The reason for my post is that I am looking for something more elegant. Anyone else have any ideas ?

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[MrSurly]

It looks like you’ve a ceiling of OSB.
Is this pole barn constructed in the typical way with panel trusses? Are the trusses in line with the garage doors? iow: are the trusses parallel to the door rails?
If so, it might be possible to raise the ceiling panel up between the trusses so as to allow headroom between trusses thus allowing a standard door opener enough headroom. You don’t need the width of the door, only the width of the opener or one “bay”


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[MrSurly]

I have seen pics of a low headroom setup that had the drums/ springs reversed so the cables were on the back side of the drums and would pull the door further open. I *don't know* how well that works in regard to the door's operation on closing. It seems like it could be problematic, however, it would be something you could *try* at little cost or free and it would be readily reversible if it didn't do the trick.

 

[rslaback]

I have a similar setup on the shop that I just bought. The garage door takes up most of the front wall and runs on low headroom tracks. I have a trolley opener that runs along one side of the door instead of in the middle. That puts the opener out of the way and gives full opening headroom all the way into the shop.

 

[Tracs]

I have a similar setup on the shop that I just bought. The garage door takes up most of the front wall and runs on low headroom tracks. I have a trolley opener that runs along one side of the door instead of in the middle. That puts the opener out of the way and gives full opening headroom all the way into the shop.

Brilliant idea! I've been thinking of a 4 post lift and this would solve the opener dilemma.

 

[thunders]

Great idea, you solved my problem. Where is the best place to get a opener with a long enough track for a 13' door ,do they sell extensions ? Thank you

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[rslaback]

This is the newer version of what I have. Mine is actually wired as a commercial door control with open, stop, close controls.


https://www.liftmaster.com/mt-trolley-operator-medium-duty-door-operator/p/MT

https://www.grainger.com/product/LIFTMASTER-Commcl-Door-Opener-6UR99

 

[matt_o_70]

Thanks for posting your photos - I am very interested in this for my situation!

I have doors with the low headroom tracks and Clopay EZ-set springs & drums. I am shopping for door opener options and was looking at the 8500's but everything I read - suggested that I would have to convert to 'standard' cable drums with conventional tracks in addition to the cost of the 8500's. So cost was adding up quickly.

I am going to look at replicating this setup. Is there something unique about this opener vs a typical opener at big box store?

 

[thunders]

Matt_o_70, let me know what you find out. I am looking for a less expensive set up than $600.00. I don't need a commercial unit since I one open this door a couple of times a week.

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[kbs2244]

The standard Chamberlin extension kit take a 7 foot door to 10 feet.
But I do not see any reason they could not be piggy backed for a total of 6 feet extension.

 

[thunders]

What about the stop start limit's, would there be enough travel.

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[CraigStu]

Knowing how my central mount trolley system acts if the spring tension is different left to right I am curious how that side mount system works. Does it tend to pull that side of the door up and cause the door to cant side to side?

 

[rslaback]

Knowing how my central mount trolley system acts if the spring tension is different left to right I am curious how that side mount system works. Does it tend to pull that side of the door up and cause the door to cant side to side?

Sorry for the delay. I didn't see this reply until I was looking for those links I posted.

The door does not noticeably cant to one side. It seems to be that if a door is properly balanced that it doesn't really matter on which side the opener is mounted. The way I look at it, if I don't have to be dead center when I open or close the door, the opener shouldn't either.

 

[matt_o_70]

so i found an old chain drive overhead opener in the trash.. since its an 7' and not an 8' I am going to try this:

If needed I can to add a second set of cables and drums with the cables run to the top of the garage door. hope is that this will be able to pull the door in both directions. I have hand wound the tube and while it works it seems that might be a bit flakey without a more direct drive to lower the door.