Higher ceilings versus tray ceiling?

[BellyUpFish]

Hey guys-

Getting ready to build a shop and I'd like to have a lift one day.

I'm considering rather than going 12' ceilings all around maybe going 10' ceilings all around and traying one bay up to say 14' for the "lift bay."

I'm not sure which direction would be better usage of my money.

Would 10' and a tray be less expensive than 12' ceilings?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd rather have one level ceiling to install the panels and lights on as it should be easier to do. When it's easier to do, it generally makes it cheaper.

 

[bczygan]

It really depends on your overall structure. And that flows from your functions inside. Do you have need for extra height for storage or other functions? If you can, it keeps things simple.

Another thing to think about is simplicity of the roof structure. I like to keep roofs as simple as possible. My favorite is a simple steep pitched (12/12 min.) gable roof. Sheds water and snow, and no valleys.

Bill

 

[dwysywd]

Trays add 20% to the cost of your room. Either you have the high ceiling, and drop it to tray, or you cut the ceiling joists and then reframe them from the tray. Either way, they are expensive. So unless you like the architecture look of them, skip it. And go with the higher ceiling. And then You can put higher doors on it which is nice. I out 10' ceiling in my garage and put taller doors in it. So go higher. It will cost less and be much easier.


Regards,
Jeff

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[BellyUpFish]

I had considered the complexity of the tray adding cost to the project. I'll just stick with 12' walls, it's in the budget, but was thinking about trying to cut back anyway.

Thanks guys.




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[stingry]

Trays add 20% to the cost of your room.


Regards,
Jeff

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Not necessarily!!! Here is how I did my coffered ceiling using trusses.


View media item 7636I did not want 12 ft ceilings in all my shop but did want a lift so I made a 12 ft coffered (tray) section. The coffered trusses were more expensive but the cost was offset by the savings in lumber, exterior sheeting, drywall, insulation, etc. by having 10 ft ceilings instead of 12 ft. See below for the finished ceiling.
View media item 26297
Cheers
Steve

 

[Ironcrow]

I had considered the complexity of the tray adding cost to the project. I'll just stick with 12' walls, it's in the budget, but was thinking about trying to cut back anyway.

12 feet can be very tight depending on your lift. If you have not picked out a lift yet, consider 13 foot ceiling. Some lifts are right at 12 feet, or heartbreakingly 12 feet 1 inch for the one you want. In any case designing it this close means you have to fight with clearance for lights, garage door track, and you are closely watching the thickness of the sheetrock, for god's sake, to get every inch.

 

[dwysywd]

Ok. I knew as soon as I put a cost assumption SOMEONE always chirps ups and reminds people that they did it cheaper! LoL. I knew it. Ok well for the average joe who isn't framing it himself, then it will cost more. I should have just left it at that.


Regards,
Jeff

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[icenfire01]

I had to add a tray ceiling to my living room to accommodate a new furnace install (well didn't HAVE to but needed the drop to add duct work but did not want to give up my tall ceilings in the whole living room). It turned out very nice but was alot of extra work. If you are doing it exclusively for the lift just go with taller ceilings, I don't see how you would regret more wall space. If you want it for the architectural aesthetics then do it for sure, they look great when done well.