hints, tips and suggestions for a retaining wall..?

[Skunkape]

Hey guys,

I built a shop recently on a downhill slope. I'll need to put in a small retaining wall, which I've never done. Aside form the obvious, is there any hints, tricks, tips or suggestions that you've come across in erecting one?

I would like to locate a block that locks in place with pins (saw it on youtube!), instead of the paver blocks with the back "lip" that you typically find at the big box stores.

Thanks!

 

[Kaizen]

Pins imo are not needed. I have a four foot wall with block that has lip. Not big box quality though. 20 years and still in place. Make sure you get heavy ones. These were like 80 pounds each. Lots of lifting. 98 percent of the job is laying the first course below grade perfectly level. If you do that right it's mindless monkey work. I didn't even glue down my caps as they are so heavy


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[Hot Rod Grampa]

I have built several with the pins. They are a pain because of alignment. There is little room for error. Up here I have seen one that is solid in front, has a lip but body is poured with two pockets. Idea is you stack them then fill them with gravel. I would use solid with lip for anything up to 4' high. Then you want to involve an engineer for safety concerns. Hope this helps.

 

[Lelandwelds]

You need a Deadman or the step back mentioned. Water is unbelievably powerful over time. Use a french drain or gravel and filter fabric.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you want pins, you could always drill them yourself and drop in a section of rebar.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How about we start with how high this wall need to be ? The blocks with lip are only good for about 3'. You have to check on the other ones.

The 2 big issue with retaining walls is proving proper uphill drainage and a proper footing. Do your research. Lots of info and pictures.

 

[ard]

Pins imo are not needed. I have a four foot wall with block that has lip. Not big box quality though. 20 years and still in place. Make sure you get heavy ones. These were like 80 pounds each. Lots of lifting. 98 percent of the job is laying the first course below grade perfectly level. If you do that right it's mindless monkey work. I didn't even glue down my caps as they are so heavy


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This.

I have around 140 pallets of these blocks for retaining walls, several hundred feet of walls. 8" tall, 16" wide face ont eh blocl, lip onm the back.

Keys:

Nice crushed rock base, perfectly level
One course of block below finished grade
DRAINAGE from behind wall. Perf drain with sock, round drain rock.
Make sure walls dont 'tilt' as you stack them.
Dont exceed 48" of exposed wall. If you need more height, create a bench with 5,6 ft separating the lifts.


(I didnt like the way the tops looked, with my freeform and curving walls, so I cast in place a concrete cap. Stegmeyer Wall Caps. Same stuff they used for swimming pool deck, just attached to both sides of the wall. It was a bit nuts, lots of work. But looks nice.)

 

[Skunkape]

Pins imo are not needed. I have a four foot wall with block that has lip. Not big box quality though. 20 years and still in place. Make sure you get heavy ones. These were like 80 pounds each. Lots of lifting. 98 percent of the job is laying the first course below grade perfectly level. If you do that right it's mindless monkey work. I didn't even glue down my caps as they are so heavy


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The highest part will be 4ft. good to know that pins aren't needed, and are a pain, as noted by Hot Rod Grandpa. A GOOD heavy block is what I need, but I have yet to locate a local source for them. I plan on only doing this project once. I've read a good base of sand, and to place angular rock behind the wall (6-8 inches from soil). There are so many different videos out there, it gets a bit confusing, and I start second guessing myself at which approach to take.. I appreciate all the insight, and will continue to take all the advice I can get!

 

[Kaizen]

I get mine from a stone supplier. Actually used two different colors on most of it. Don't use sand under it. Use pea stone or something that will pack. Get the caps and cut after the wall is done if you don't do a straight wall. Mine is serpentine with steps into the middle. I'd recommend finding the block you like and follow their install instructions


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[NUTTSGT]

I used two rows of concrete block for my base course set on tamped base material. After the base was down I laid two course of block down (not mortared) and filled them with #9 (fines). I did two course of block since it was along the driveway and eventually I'd like to replace the stone driveway with concrete. I didn't want to undermine my way so I added the second course. Right or wrong, I don't know but it seemed like the smart thing to do.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I hope the people who come along later and read this appreciate how much work this is. This **** is heavy. Simple in tools and concept but heavy. Lots of people dont value heavy labor like this. But, done right, it is impressive. Subtle, usually, but impressive.

 

[ard]

Amen. IMO it is more of a muscle than laying CMUs. Or seems like it.

When I did mine, I hired two kids to stack. I did the first course (which is the twitchiest), they rock and rolled the rest.

Also, when you get the blocks delivered, have them run each pallet of block as close as they can get to where the wall will be. You don't want to have to move blocks twice. After the first wall, I realized this- and took the time to grade access paths for the Home Depot forklift to get way into the site. It won't look neat and organized, but can save massively. Even a 40, 50 ft wall- by staging them along the wall

 

[Kaizen]

Sometimes visual is nice. The only blocks that were cut on any of my wall were at the stairway and the caps. Like I said most of the block is from 1998. You can see the lower courses have 2 colors......they stopped making one when I added some height and the caps. age give it a natural feel. Agree these are heavy. I found the hug at chest level good. I used a dolly to load and move if more then ten feet away.

 

[James-W]

Sometimes visual is nice. The only blocks that were cut on any of my wall were at the stairway and the caps. Like I said most of the block is from 1998. You can see the lower courses have 2 colors......they stopped making one when I added some height and the caps. age give it a natural feel. Agree these are heavy. I found the hug at chest level good. I used a dolly to load and move if more then ten feet away.

Looks really good!

 

[Jeff95TA]

If you decide to go this route, the Versa Lok Tulsa manufacturer might be able to tell you if there's someone in your area:

http://www.versa-lok.com/find-a-dealer/midwest-block-brick-1

And the tool used to carry them is definitely worth using, especially is the block is over half your weight!

 

[kj_mustang]

Read the installation documents from the block manufacturer. Each style of block has different requirements for installation. Any wall over 4' should be requiring a geo-grid type of fabric to use as a tieback/support into the retained dirt.

 

[Kaizen]

We installed geo-grid every other course when mine was built...One of the things I remember the installer telling me was you have to have geo-grid as far back on the ground as the wall is high. 4' of wall would be 4' of geo-grid behind the wall under the top course or under the caps depending on how high you are filling it up.

Mine was a large undertaking and I had it installed professionally...

Holy great wall of Maryland. Worth it imo to get flat usable land


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[bjcouche]

I had a 4' tall wall built about 4 years ago. The blocks were the hollow Allen blocks with the lip. They weighed about 70lbs each. The installers used gravel for the base and had excellent drainage per the manufacturers recommendations. They even filled the hollow blocks with pea gravel as recommended. However they did NOT compact the soil (with plate compactor) well after EACH course of block was added, nor did they install geo grid. Consequently my wall is falling over now. The stairs are not safe to use as they are heaved and angled downward. The whole thing needs to be ripped out and reinstalled.
My recommendation is to either do it yourself to be sure it's done right, or find someone who has a 10 year old wall that's still standing straight and ask them who installed it for them. As others have said, it's not rocket science, and it does take a lot of manual labor. Because labor is expensive, shortcuts to minimize labor are too often taken.
Brian

 

[Skunkape]

We installed geo-grid every other course when mine was built...One of the things I remember the installer telling me was you have to have geo-grid as far back on the ground as the wall is high. 4' of wall would be 4' of geo-grid behind the wall under the top course or under the caps depending on how high you are filling it up.
Mine was a large undertaking and I had it installed professionally...

That looks great! I in no way shape or form would undertake that monster on my own.

I'm looking at a 4ft tapered down to 2ft wall, approx. 50ft long.. I'm sweating doing that right!

 

[Kaizen]

That looks great! I in no way shape or form would undertake that monster on my own.



I'm looking at a 4ft tapered down to 2ft wall, approx. 50ft long.. I'm sweating doing that right!

Just like eating an elephant....one bite at a time. The good thing with this product is if you do mess it up you can take it apart and do it again and all you have is time and muscle. Good luck


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[Jim_No_Garage]

Just like eating an elephant....one bite at a time. The good thing with this product is if you do mess it up you can take it apart and do it again and all you have is time and muscle. Good luck


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I've built 3 retaining walls on my property using the "tumbled" Versa-Lok wall stones. These are the large blocks that are set with pins. I don't think the pins are a problem at all - there is a good bit of wiggle room with the pins.

The first 2 shots are of the driveway wall with stairs. There was a concrete block wall that had failed in this location. The existing stairs were of 3 different rises in the same 4 steps. It all came out and was built over several weeks. I had issues with the stair design as I was trying to solve an issue with the slope of the sidewalk.

The next 2 shots are of a wall that eased the transition into the back yard. The ground was tilting in 3 different directions at the house corner. Now it's better and we still have drive-in access to the back yard.

The last 2 shots are of a wall we planted to get a spot for the maple shade tree for the deck.

These blocks are HEAVY and next job I'm getting the block lifter. I wore out several pairs of leather gloves lifting/setting the stones for the driveway wall. All the walls have crushed stone and french drains behind them.

Cheers

Jim

 

[theoldwizard1]

We installed geo-grid every other course when mine was built...One of the things I remember the installer telling me was you have to have geo-grid as far back on the ground as the wall is high.

First, you project came out awesome !

Second, use a good quality, heavy duty geo-grid as a tie-back is and EXCELLENT suggestion. Quick and easy to install !

Last, I don't think I saw it mentioned, WEEP HOLES ! Just in case the drainage in the back does not get the water out fast enough.

 

[M35A2]

I have seen to many walls that become so uneven over the years due to settling that I personally like to pour a footing, in this case 6x12 with 2 sticks of rebar in it. First one I did is 17 years old and still looks great. This was my last one that I did, about 120’ long, between the wall, rock on bank and pavers my body was hurtin. Weep holes were mentioned but depends on the block, some are flat and tight on the face or like mine, bevel cut which leaves plenty of cracks for excess drainage. Drainage is a must and I do 4’ perf with sock and 3/4’ Round drain rock which is good for drainage and small enough to fill cracks and voids.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I've built 3 retaining walls on my property using the "tumbled" Versa-Lok wall stones. These are the large blocks that are set with pins. I don't think the pins are a problem at all - there is a good bit of wiggle room with the pins.

The first 2 shots are of the driveway wall with stairs. There was a concrete block wall that had failed in this location. The existing stairs were of 3 different rises in the same 4 steps. It all came out and was built over several weeks. I had issues with the stair design as I was trying to solve an issue with the slope of the sidewalk.

The next 2 shots are of a wall that eased the transition into the back yard. The ground was tilting in 3 different directions at the house corner. Now it's better and we still have drive-in access to the back yard.

The last 2 shots are of a wall we planted to get a spot for the maple shade tree for the deck.

These blocks are HEAVY and next job I'm getting the block lifter. I wore out several pairs of leather gloves lifting/setting the stones for the driveway wall. All the walls have crushed stone and french drains behind them.

Cheers

Jim

That looks like chopped limestone thats been in place for 30 years! Nice job.

 

[oldcpecdr]

Want something easy ? And looks pretty good... Google Cement Bag Wall..

I built one along the driveway extension about thirty feet long and four foot high in places. staked with re-bar through the bags... After 60 days or so you peel off the paper bags and it looks pretty good !

Did I mention EASY and CHEAP !!!!!

The picture is a LOT more ambitious than mine..

Mike B

 

[ard]

Want something easy ? And looks pretty good... Google Cement Bag Wall..

I built one along the driveway extension about thirty feet long and four foot high in places. staked with re-bar through the bags... After 60 days or so you peel off the paper bags and it looks pretty good !

Did I mention EASY and CHEAP !!!!!

The picture is a LOT more ambitious than mine..

Mike B

Not easier than an engineered block wall.

Cheap? a bag of readimix covers 4"x24" and costs $3. so $4.50 per sq ft of wall

A block, HD 3 sided pavestone, is $3.97 for a 8" x 16" face: so $4.46 per sq ft of face

(My numbers on the bag dimensions are estimates...)

Did I mention the blocks are engineered?