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Hip roof and vaulted ceiling

Richtriumph

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Feb 24, 2018
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Hi, planning to build a standalone garage and looking for ways to get the roof designed or find an online design I can buy for the roof or the whole garage .

24 by 22
Hip roof to compliment house
Vaulted or raised ceiling for car lift

Appreciate any resource or advise as I start this project .

Located in Richmond VA

Thank in advance
 
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dcg9381

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Note, plans of this type are typically "generic" and do not account for regional code or things like snow-load. As such, they may be over or under built.

Many GCs can build with "basic designs" (even hand drawings). If you're using trusses, the actual engineering is often done by the truss/lumber provider, so don't go too nuts unless you want to be on the hook for every detail. You can label it "truss per engineering specification".

Bid/Contract specs should be based on detailed design, just saying that you may have to go out and get bids on materials / trusses so it's a little chicken/egg.
 
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Richtriumph

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Thanks. Appreciate the comment the provider can design the truss. I will start checking with local suppliers.

Anyone have references for a general contractor in the Richmond VA area ? I already known one and looking for some options.
 

mike93lx

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Thanks. Appreciate the comment the provider can design the truss. I will start checking with local suppliers.

Anyone have references for a general contractor in the Richmond VA area ? I already known one and looking for some options.
No GC recommendation, but I just used Lodores Truss for a 16x16 build. Pricing was competitive and they were quick to produce and ship them

Its going to be hard to get much of any extra height with a hip roof and basically a square building.
 

larry4406

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No GC recommendation, but I just used Lodores Truss for a 16x16 build. Pricing was competitive and they were quick to produce and ship them

Its going to be hard to get much of any extra height with a hip roof and basically a square building.
I Agree with Mike.

At the day job, one of our houses uses a hip roof and has a tray ceiling in the 2nd floor master. Excerpt of the truss detail is below. Note the high raised heal at the bearing wall for R43 blown insulation (Northern VA). perhaps this gives the OP some ideas. This is a piggy back style truss. This truss produces a flat spot inside the room perimeter of about 24" with the raised tray (12") within.

1746523027327.png

On our houses with a hip roof, the trusses span the long direction of the structure. Then we have girder trusses near the ends which receive infill mono trusses for the roof change of direction. The truss designer will need to be creative to give you a raised "tray ceiling" along with the girder trusses.
 

billconner

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A hip roof can be designed without rafter ties or trusses - just simple rafters. Generally easier with steeper slope. Certainly maximizes clear space. Should be less expensive than trusses.
 

Innovate1

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A hip roof can be designed without rafter ties or trusses - just simple rafters. Generally easier with steeper slope. Certainly maximizes clear space. Should be less expensive than trusses.
That may be true but something needs to resist the outward force at the wall tops. How are you thinking that is handled? I suppose beams could be laid flat with strong connections at the corners to do that. Maybe in combination with the roof sheeting that would resist the walls bowing out in the middle.

Other methods... Scissor truss type details..Or if the upper cord is big enough at the tails (or all the way to the peak depending on other details of the design) they could be the only member that goes to the wall and allow a raised ceiling until very close to the walls.

Typically the truss supplier will design and provide needed engineering loads/drawings needed. If you have special needs for ceiling height, loads, etc you just need to provide them the details. I had more traditional trusses but found local suppliers easy to work with while being my own GC.
 

billconner

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I've read it many times. Google "does a hip require rafter ties" and you'll get some explanations. Also needs to be 8 in 12 or steeper pitch.

Best I can explain is that the hip rafters support the ridge like columns do for a ridge beam in a gable roof. The hip rafters depend on tension in the top plates holding them from spreading, this holding the ridge up, even if the ridge is no length (square building).

Our house before this one was 36x30, 8 in 12 pitch hip roof, 2 x 4 rafters, 2 x 6 hip rafters, built in 1904, no collar or rafter ties, and not a bit of sag. Even had hip roof dormers all sides. Always planned to finish attic - never got to it - but did stretch strings to measure sag. None. So definitely works.
 

mike93lx

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I've read it many times. Google "does a hip require rafter ties" and you'll get some explanations. Also needs to be 8 in 12 or steeper pitch.

Best I can explain is that the hip rafters support the ridge like columns do for a ridge beam in a gable roof. The hip rafters depend on tension in the top plates holding them from spreading, this holding the ridge up, even if the ridge is no length (square building).

Our house before this one was 36x30, 8 in 12 pitch hip roof, 2 x 4 rafters, 2 x 6 hip rafters, built in 1904, no collar or rafter ties, and not a bit of sag. Even had hip roof dormers all sides. Always planned to finish attic - never got to it - but did stretch strings to measure sag. None. So definitely works.
What was the attic floor? I would assume that would serve the fuction of ties
 

firebirdparts

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This is actually easy - with a square building and a hip roof, there's no push out at all on any wall. The building is small enough for rafters. It's a trivial design.

There really just aren't any forces that any stick of wood in your way would be needed to deal with.
 
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walta

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Is this a DIY project?

General the truss design is done by the trusses manufacture. You will need to provide your design requirement. Size, Inside and outside pitch. The design work is priced into the trusses.

You need to keep your expiations realistic in that the trusses are likely to eat up a good percentage of the space under the roof. If the pitch of the roof you want to match is pretty flat say 5-12. Half of the 22 width gives you less than 6 feet of rise and a scissor truss will take half of that the sloped ceiling and the lift being on one side might let you lift the car 18 inches or so more.


Walta2025-05-06_21-24-41.jpg
 

GCS

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Here’s how I did mine to accommodate a lift

10/12 pitch hip roof
 

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billconner

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What was the attic floor? I would assume that would serve the fuction of ties
They were a couple of feet below the top plate and not always connected, plus a big stair.

The point is the hip rafters serve like ridge beams and the jack and common rafters just rest on hip rafters and (usually short) ridge beam. The thrust of the hip rafters is in tension on the top plates.

I enjoy rough carpentry and hip roofs are especially satisfying to layout it and cut.
 

mike93lx

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They were a couple of feet below the top plate and not always connected, plus a big stair.

The point is the hip rafters serve like ridge beams and the jack and common rafters just rest on hip rafters and (usually short) ridge beam. The thrust of the hip rafters is in tension on the top plates.

I enjoy rough carpentry and hip roofs are especially satisfying to layout it and cut.
I didn't know that a hip transferred load like that. Thanks
 

billconner

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I believe the sheathing also prevents spreading. Once upon a time I read a great article on hip roofs -- New England Builder or Journal of Light Construction. Kind of fascinating.
 

firebirdparts

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Sheathing prevents a lot of things, yes. Everything it does is good. But really, there just is no spreading force at all on this building. There wouldn't be any reason to have any piece of wood that's not in the building envelope.
 

billconner

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I didn't know that a hip transferred load like that. Thanks
Does it make sense or still questioning it? I'm half on faith in my memory from reading, and filling in here from contemporary Google. Half the roof load is on top plates and half on jack rafters bearing on hip rafters. A little bit on the ridge "beam" supported by the hip rafters. The top plates keep the gift rafters from splaying out and unless they compress, the ridges are not dropping.

I've never "defended" hip roofs not requiring rafter ties, have just accepted what I've read over decades.
 

mike93lx

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Does it make sense or still questioning it? I'm half on faith in my memory from reading, and filling in here from contemporary Google. Half the roof load is on top plates and half on jack rafters bearing on hip rafters. A little bit on the ridge "beam" supported by the hip rafters. The top plates keep the gift rafters from splaying out and unless they compress, the ridges are not dropping.

I've never "defended" hip roofs not requiring rafter ties, have just accepted what I've read over decades.
I think I'm kind of there. Wish I could see a structural analysis model that showed how stresses transferred through the framing.

This one is a bit outside my wheelhouse, but I think it's really interesting.

Unrelated to the structural side, how does one vent a hip roof that doesn't have a ridge or has one that is too small for enough area?
 
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