Hitachi circular saw... base parallel to blade?

[Sh40674]

so i've gone through 3 circular saws with the same problem. I had a masterforce brand from menards (looked similar to a bosch) and couldn't get a good cut to save my life. never bothered to look at the blade, but it was out almost a full 1/4 inch from the front/back of the shoe to the blade. returned it and got a bosch, had the same issue (slightly less) and returned that one. this time i got a Skil for around 70 bucks, got it home and put the blade on... out by 1/16th of an inch. getting better. i'm reading the reviews for hitachi saws and they seem pretty good and in my price range (need something menards carries as my return will be in store credit only).

the Hitachi models they carry are the C7ST and i believe the C7SB2... do any of you have these models? and how is the base parallel to the blade? if i could get one under 1/32" i'd be happy... just not having any luck. thanks guys!

 

[gungatim]

I've never noticed a problem on any of my cheapo homeowner grade craftsman/skil saws.

I assume it is a problem for you because you are running the base against a guide?

I know my cheap saws have stamped steel bases, but the better quality/contractor grade stuff usually has nice aluminum bases--maybe you can file the base parallel to the blade with a disc sander? any way to shim?

 

[Sh40674]

yes, running them along a guide. the bosch and masterforce both had the fancy base plates... i suppose i'll keep going back and forth with returns till i get a good one haha

 

[mike93lx]

My porter cable 324mag cuts perfectly against a guide. Might be worth looking for a nice used saw

 

[DFB]

A lot of inexpensive saws have poor shoe plates. Some are really flimsily and can get easily bent too

Check out Makita circular saws if you are looking for a saw with really decent base plate. 1/8 thick solid aluminum.

If amperage rating is not an issue the 10 amp HS7600 at $89 obviously is not much more than you are spending now and the 5000F 15amp saw is just $99

A lot of guys I know use the Makita. I have had a 5000NB for years. I just measured mine still looks good to me and as parallel to the blade as I could ask for in hand held saw


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-10-5-Amp-7-1-4-in-Corded-Circular-Saw-HS7600/206041884

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-15-Amp-7-1-4-in-Circular-Saw-5007F/202873973

 

[TNBurban]

My makita hypoid magnesium has been a great saw. Was my go to for cutting sheet goods with a straight edge until I got a track saw.

Now if you want a near perfect cut every time with more accuracy and less setup time, a track saw is what you seek.

 

[rlitman]

My porter cable 324mag cuts perfectly against a guide. Might be worth looking for a nice used saw

I have the 423mag (the left-hand blade version of yours), and make most of my cuts along a guide. Never had an issue either.

 

[Furious Filipino]

Now if you want a near perfect cut every time with more accuracy and less setup time, a track saw is what you seek.

I've been down the same road as the OP. At the end of the day, a hand-held circular saw is not a precision tool (i.e. 1/32" accuracy is not design factor for these tools).

I have designed and built a large cross-cut jig, 24" cross-cut capacity, with two different guides that have rails on either side of the saw base plate--one to fit a cheap Ryobi and one to fit a much nicer Makita.

The rails for the Makita are dead parallel to within a few thousandths of an inch, the rails for the Ryobi had to be adjusted to have some slop because the blade is not true to the base plate; when I drop the Ryobi on that guide, there is noticeable play between the guide and the base plate.

That being said, both saws can make repeatable cuts of 1/32" easily-at least within the span of 24" inches-it can almost make veneer. The Makita can probably make a 1/64" cut, but I haven't needed that accuracy with my wood projects. That being said, you will never get that accuracy over full lengths of plywood with just a DIY circ saw guide--that's why track saw guides are so expensive because it takes quite a bit to make an extrusion run that true.

 

[Furious Filipino]

Just to add, I mis-interpreted what the OP was asking--the blade is 1/16" to 1/4" out of parallel out of the box?

Not to sound condescending, but have you checked with a control blade that didn't come with the box? Are you checking the arbor for debris? Just asking because even my Ryobi was not out more than 1/8" out of the box with the OEM blade.

Also, what are you measuring these with? Tape measure? Calipers? Depth gauge? Even with nicer Mitutoyo calipers, I could barely measure better than a 1/64" variance of my nicer Makita saw which has a magnesium base plate.

 

[Sh40674]

Just to add, I mis-interpreted what the OP was asking--the blade is 1/16" to 1/4" out of parallel out of the box?

Not to sound condescending, but have you checked with a control blade that didn't come with the box? Are you checking the arbor for debris? Just asking because even my Ryobi was not out more than 1/8" out of the box with the OEM blade.

Also, what are you measuring these with? Tape measure? Calipers? Depth gauge? Even with nicer Mitutoyo calipers, I could barely measure better than a 1/64" variance of my nicer Makita saw which has a magnesium base plate.

yes, diablo blade and i always clean up before putting a blade on. checked with a small combination square and a machinist rule. the masterforce and bosch (still convinced is the same saw) were visibly out, and the Skil i had to measure (which came up to around 1/16, i'm estimating i can't remember exactly the number i repeated). checked using the same tooth rotated front and back.

called the store, i can get store credit for the saw (70 plus tax) and they'll price match the hitachi to lowes which is 84 vs. 100 at menards, so all in all it'll cost me about 10 bucks to pick up the hitachi, which is why i'm interested in it. their saws seem to get very positive reviews. and they have a 5 year warranty

 

[Sh40674]

and i cut things like countertops with my circular saw.... need something fairly accurate (i'm aware accurate and circular saw don't go together well). i had an old black and decker my dad gave me years ago, must have gotten lucky because it was dead nuts, even with it's age... it finally burned up so i've been searching for a replacement ever since

 

[Firebrick43]

If you want that kind of precision I would suggest a track saw. Expensive I know but the cut, safety, dust control,and ease is phenomenal. I personally have a dewalt, and like it over the festool and makita do to its plunge mechanism but would own a makita and would be happy as well. Festool nice but stupid expensive and no better than the other two.

The rubber anti chip edge is cut by the saw and is the cut line so no measuring to offset guide. The saws have a riving knife to keep the blade from pinching. If you cut on a piece of blue board and hook the saw up to a vacuum the is no dust and the cut quality on fine ply is perfect and rivals high dollar sliding table saws.


The second choice would be a ez smart. It's basically a track saw using a cheaper circular saw as a power unit. They have a special base plate the bolts to the plate and you can then tweak the saw to be straight. You could still use your saw off the track against a strait edge of you wanted to (loose depth of cut by the thickness of base plate) but I suggest the track. It's as good as the above mentioned saws as far as cut quality, if your arbor is straight but lacks the plunge, dust control, and anti kick back/riving knife.

Third option it to get a 1/4 inch aluminum plate and make your own base plate. A drill and jig saw will easily cut out the blade slot. Then clamp it to the saws base, align, and drill and countersink plate and use counter sunk machine screws and nut to hold it in place.

I am unfamiliar with the saws you are mentioning but I do know from researching the ez smart tracks saw(before purchasing the dewalt) the recommended saw was 5007mg and 5008mg makitas due to the precision and quality. You will notice even makita has a cheaper line with steel base plates and suffer in precision(fine for most construction use). Several of them were happily using hitachi's but I am sure it was their upper model


Went and looked, they are using the C7BMR. It's upgraded in several way including a blade brake. Also the motor housing is aluminum and the bearings ride in an aluminum bore and the the whole housing has an plasic overlay for double insulation. Cheap saw just have a plastic housing.

I would still get the 5007mg however as the extra money gets you a nice case and rip fence, accessories the hitachi doesn't have and the makita is really tops, unless you want a worm drive.

 

[Mandres]

Does it really matter if the rear of the blade isn't perfectly aligned to the shoe? The front does the cutting right? As long are you aren't getting kickback/pinching in the cut I don't think the rear makes a difference. That said, with a .25" difference I don't see how you couldn't be getting kickback. Something sounds very wrong there

 

[Firebrick43]

Don't know if you would be interested also in a cordless? I just went and checked My 2831 fuel Milwaukee is less than .030" out of square. I say less than as the blade I have (and most will be) has some run out. Some points of blade rotation it's dead nuts. So I will say .015 as you typically take half of the run out out. I didn't put my test indicator on the blade as the mag base won't work on the mag(medium) base of the saw. The way the saw is designed a shim under the adjustment (depth) would correct squareness or a swipe or two with a file. Mitutoyo calipers used to measure.

The saw is as powerful as a corded model, lite and quieter as well. I was ripping 4 sheets at a time of 5/8 OSB and did all the frame/facial/sheathing cuts for my 33'x84' 6/12 roof last week on just two battery charges. 1/2 left first day and 1/4 left second. 9.0 battery. Buy the battery/charger for 249 and get the saw free right now. The framers hired to help were amazed and their corded saws were never plugged in.

 

[Sh40674]

Does it really matter if the rear of the blade isn't perfectly aligned to the shoe? The front does the cutting right? As long are you aren't getting kickback/pinching in the cut I don't think the rear makes a difference. That said, with a .25" difference I don't see how you couldn't be getting kickback. Something sounds very wrong there

absolutely, with the first 2 it was pretty hard to run along a guide, and never got a good cut. the Skil being out 1/16" i could run along a guide fine if i did my part but if i took pressure off it would start to wander a tiny bit.


after work this morning i stopped and picked up the hitachi... the C7SB2. Measured on the short side of the shoe and it's dead nuts. on the long side (motor side) it is out right around 1/64", which to me is about as perfect as you can get on a tool like that. this was with the factory installed hitachi blade. I put it on a guide and cut some scrap plywood and it cut like a dream compared to my other saws. much happier with this one. so far, i'd recommend it.

 

[RivennHewn]

With all the time spent going back and forth to the store, you could have afforded a track saw and been done with it

 

[Sh40674]

With all the time spent going back and forth to the store, you could have afforded a track saw and been done with it

not really, not at all. i need the circular saw for stuff like framing as well. and i never spent more than 90 bucks. got the first one for 80, returned, got the bosh with the return plus 10 bucks, returned the bosch, got the skill for 70, returned, and happy with the hitachi at 84, so i'm not out any more money.

 

[dutchgray]

The only thing is you have left the store with three saws they can no longer sell as a new item.

 

[Sh40674]

The only thing is you have left the store with three saws they can no longer sell as a new item.

2 weren't functional as they were and 1 hardly was, if anything i think i'm saving the next guy some hassle. they were all returned under warranty.

 

[Sh40674]

and actually, the first 2 were returned under the 90 day guarantee and 1 under warranty. i don't see what i did wrong here. i got a tool, wasn't functional and i wasn't satisfied, and i returned it to try something different only to have the same problem.

 

[bczygan]

They should go back to the mfg. so defects are fixed.

Bill