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Hitch Pins on Chain hooks

pelletman

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WillyBoy

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I just looked at the link above^^^. They look like a good solution but the prices seem unusual. $4.2147; $2.4947; $5.1660.
How does my credit card company deal with the thousandths of a cent? or am I missing something?
 

mike93lx

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I just looked at the link above^^^. They look like a good solution but the prices seem unusual. $4.2147; $2.4947; $5.1660.
How does my credit card company deal with the thousandths of a cent? or am I missing something?
They dont, the seller rounds it at check out
 

JeepYJ

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I just looked at the link above^^^. They look like a good solution but the prices seem unusual. $4.2147; $2.4947; $5.1660.
How does my credit card company deal with the thousandths of a cent? or am I missing something?
Add it to your cart and it rounds the number to hundredths. Buy 10,000 of them and it makes a difference.
 

johnre

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Portland, OR
Standard procedure on sailboat standing rigging is a stainless circular clip; the advantages are that they won't shake out regardless of the orientation, there are no exposed ends to tear sailcloth, and if they do catch on something, it takes a lot more pulling to pull them out or compromise them - they usually just bent on me but otherwise continued to serve their function.

And they are no more expensive than a hitch pin or cotter key:

1733905537753.png
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
Standard procedure on sailboat standing rigging is a stainless circular clip; the advantages are that they won't shake out regardless of the orientation, there are no exposed ends to tear sailcloth, and if they do catch on something, it takes a lot more pulling to pull them out or compromise them - they usually just bent on me but otherwise continued to serve their function.

And they are no more expensive than a hitch pin or cotter key:

1733905537753.png
I don't know how often op has to do this but that would be a major pain to do if they need to do it often. It's effective though.
 

mikegt4

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sw ohio
A split ring is a better choice if you are going to remove the pin on occasion. Much easier to align with the hole in the pin. Available at any place that sells sailboat rigging.
 

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budget76

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i'm also confused on the size/scale we're talking

other potential options:
1734025256653.png1734025273794.png
 

manwithtools

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I'm confused on what we are calling a hitch pin.

This is a hitch pin. You using some really big chain?
KIMG3006.JPG

i'm also confused on the size/scale we're talking

other potential options:
1734025256653.png1734025273794.png


OP is talking about replacing the cotter pin's in a pin on chain hook with R-clips to make the hooks easily removable / attachable in the field without tools.


Chain hook with pin and cotter pin:

61MbVw5O6IL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

R-clips, guessing the M1.5 x 25 R clip in this instance:

617lyRkKTRL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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whateg01

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I've never liked the detent pins. Once it gets gummed up, the ball either doesn't pop back out so the pin falls out, or it gets hard to force the pin through the hole. I like lynch pins as long as there's enough spring in the loop to keep it in place. Depending on the application, the pin with the wire that wraps around to the other side can be ok, but I don't know if I would use one here since the wire can catch on stuff and pull free, then there's nothing keeping the pin in place.
 

ATC

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If I were to be using hitch pins ( sometimes called hair pins around here) I would want to make sure I used some good ones. I have seen some cheaper ones lose their tension and not be quite so "retentive."

I'd be very hesitant using them on chains in the first place. Chains getting thrown around, drug on the ground, and just the general life of a chain...It would be all to easy for one of those pins to become bent, or get pulled out by a link in the chain. You would have to constantly make sure the clip is in, and double-check before every use.
 

CraigStu

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I just went through similar on the quick release bucket on my mini excavator. It has about a 1.125"x6" pin. There is no load that tends to slide it out of place and I got tired of always needing 2 wrenches for the bolt and nylock that came w/ it. I found a pin like the first one in post #13 but the ring was pretty large. SIL borrowed the excavator for a week and went through 3 versions. The ring kept getting caught and popped loose on brush etc. He found one that the ring is just 1/4" over the diameter of the main pin so it stays in place. If you can find that style in the right size they are great. Having that nice ring to pull the pin out with makes things easy.
 

bassJAM

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Cincinnati, OH
Standard procedure on sailboat standing rigging is a stainless circular clip; the advantages are that they won't shake out regardless of the orientation, there are no exposed ends to tear sailcloth, and if they do catch on something, it takes a lot more pulling to pull them out or compromise them - they usually just bent on me but otherwise continued to serve their function.

And they are no more expensive than a hitch pin or cotter key:

1733905537753.png

This is what I use on my mower deck height adjustment pin. The hitch pin it came with fell out while mowing and is lost forever to my yard, and the replacement I bought vibrated itself out too. So I bent the tip of a heavy duty key ring so it's easier to change and it's been secure for about 8 years now.
 

NUTTSGT

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I'd be very hesitant using them on chains in the first place. Chains getting thrown around, drug on the ground, and just the general life of a chain...It would be all to easy for one of those pins to become bent, or get pulled out by a link in the chain. You would have to constantly make sure the clip is in, and double-check before every use.
Bingo, my thoughts.
 

CraigStu

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One more option, keep a small pair of pliers and a few cotter pins in your pocket. You may even be able to go one size thinner on the cotter pin to make it easier to bend or straighten. Or keep a pair of side cutters in your pocket so you can snip the pin and pitch it.
 

NUTTSGT

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One more option, keep a small pair of pliers and a few cotter pins in your pocket. You may even be able to go one size thinner on the cotter pin to make it easier to bend or straighten. Or keep a pair of side cutters in your pocket so you can snip the pin and pitch it.
This is why I have a cotter pin assortment, because when you need one, you need one. Thanks to this thread, typical GJ, I spotted this assortment on sale at HF and picked one up.

1734270163774.png
 

Jackfre

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I think you are better off using the cotters. Chains go thru a lot. Being heavy they get drug all over the lot and anything that can catch, will catch. it will only do it when least expected and prepared in my experience.. I’d have a quantity of cotters on hand and use them freely. Really how often are you having to do this. If it is regularly, pick up another section of chain.
 

rsanter

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All depends on your usage.
Does it open things up to more user error? Yea
Do you have to pay more attention? Yes
With the above figured in will it still make things easier?...
 

Dodgepu360

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Seguin, TX
seems like a lot of hassle

what about a piece of chain with no hooks or just 1 hook, that you feed trough whatever and hook on the other end with another chain?

I assume you're using a boomer, I'd probably work it out so that the boomer covered that connection

or make some sort of permanently mounted better way to attach the chain to whatever it is you're hooking it to, like one of those bolt on hooks or a d-ring
 
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