Hitch Receiver Drawbar Modifications

[gregs]

On the back of my Suburban I have a hitch receiver that incorporates a bracket that mounts a cargo carrier and allows it to fold up. I use the carrier all the time and the folding feature is great. However the actual height of the hitch is too high for my trailers and I need to figure out a solution. I have looked for an adjustable receiver that has an extra long shank that would allow me to cut off and swap the hinge bracket. But I have not found one that would work. So I am looking at modifying my existing hitch receiver. My current plan is to cut off the lower portion of the existing receiver where the ball mounts. Then weld on a new receiver tube across the bottom. That would allow me to use a different receiver with some drop to level my trailer and also allow me to take it off when I am not using it. I would probably make the new receiver tube flush with the end of the existing. Thoughts?

 

[whateg01]

You keep using the word receiver, but it seems you are confusing receiver with drawbar at times so I don't really know what you are trying to say. Are you wanting to cut the end of the drawbar off and weld a new receiver on the bottom of it to accept another drawbar?

How heavy is the trailer you are towing? How much drop do you need?

 

[gregs]

Sorry for the confusion. Yes I would cut the end off the existing drawbar so that I can weld a new receiver to the bottom of the drawbar. It’s kind of like some extension drawbars I have seen.

I have a couple of different trailers with a max of 5000 #’s towing. I need to lower the ball 4”-6”.

 

[gregs]

It would sorta look like this, but I wouldn’t have the receiver tube sticking out so far. For safety sake, I would probably weld the tubes together and add plates to the sides as well.

 

[whateg01]

It would sorta look like this, but I wouldn’t have the receiver tube sticking out so far. For safety sake, I would probably weld the tubes together and add plates to the sides as well.

I think you'd be better off buying that and adding brackets to attach your hitch carrier.

Better yet, buy an extended drop hitch and do the same.

 

[MovingAlong]

On the back of my Suburban I have a hitch receiver that incorporates a bracket that mounts a cargo carrier and allows it to fold up. I use the carrier all the time and the folding feature is great. However the actual height of the hitch is too high for my trailers and I need to figure out a solution. I have looked for an adjustable receiver that has an extra long shank that would allow me to cut off and swap the hinge bracket. But I have not found one that would work. So I am looking at modifying my existing hitch receiver. My current plan is to cut off the lower portion of the existing receiver where the ball mounts. Then weld on a new receiver tube across the bottom. That would allow me to use a different receiver with some drop to level my trailer and also allow me to take it off when I am not using it. I would probably make the new receiver tube flush with the end of the existing. Thoughts?

I think I'd be more inclined to cut at the green and reweld to a new properly sized drawbar...

 

[gregs]

I think I'd be more inclined to cut at the green and reweld to a new properly sized drawbar...

That’s what I would like to do, but can’t find a drawbar that’s long enough yet. I went thru the Curt site and so far from the drawings provided it doesn’t look like it would work. I will email Curt tomorrow to see if I can get a better dimensioned drawing.

 

[MovingAlong]

That’s what I would like to do, but can’t find a drawbar that’s long enough yet. I went thru the Curt site and so far from the drawings provided it doesn’t look like it would work. I will email Curt tomorrow to see if I can get a better dimensioned drawing.

Looks like there are extended models.. only a 4" drop though.

 

[MovingAlong]

And a 6" drop but only 14 1/4" length. How long does it need to be?

 

[gregs]

Need to get some accurate measurements of my existing hitch and the minimum amount of drop I can get away with. Most of the 4-6” drops happen on an angle which results in the tube being shorter. Not sure if there is enough left for the bracket.

 

[WoodsTruck]

You might revisit the installation instructions for the anti-rattle device.
I'm thinking it should be turned over so the tension holds the stinger in the "down" position, not in the "up" position.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Would one of these work? They are available in different heights.

 

[gregs]

If I do away with the anti rattle device, the minimum between the red lines is 7.25, it currently is 9.25. I need to measure a trailer at work, but it looks like 6” drop is the minimum and 8” may be the best. What would be great is a extended shank adjustable drawbar.

 

[gregs]

You might revisit the installation instructions for the anti-rattle device.
I'm thinking it should be turned over so the tension holds the stinger in the "down" position, not in the "up" position.

I have seen both positions listed. The way it is now seems to work the best.

 

[gregs]

Would one of these work? They are available in different heights.

I am looking at some variations of those. Found one that might work. It would give me some drop so that I could perhaps get away with a 6” drop drawbar. That would also allow me to remove the drawbar and not whack me knee on it.

 

[whateg01]

I am looking at some variations of those. Found one that might work. It would give me some drop so that I could perhaps get away with a 6” drop drawbar. That would also allow me to remove the drawbar and not whack me knee on it.

is that better than one with now drop and less drop in the drawbar?

 

[JeepYJ]

If you’re going to be cutting and welding why not just get some proper sized steel square tube and make your own?

 

[gregs]

is that better than one with now drop and less drop in the drawbar?

Not sure what you mean? The one in the picture would be flipped so that the receiver is on the bottom. It’s a 4 inch drop, so I would need a regular 4” drop drawbar to get a total of 8”. The top tube is 2” just like mine now, so I should be able to cut the bracket off and weld it on. And I could remove the drawbar when I’m not pulling a trailer. It’s really back to my original idea.

 

[whateg01]

Not sure what you mean? The one in the picture would be flipped so that the receiver is on the bottom. It’s a 4 inch drop, so I would need a regular 4” drop drawbar to get a total of 8”. The top tube is 2” just like mine now, so I should be able to cut the bracket off and weld it on. And I could remove the drawbar when I’m not pulling a trailer.

There are similar ones that have less drop but you'd need a 6" drop drawbar. Or others that have a 6" drop that could use a regular 2" drop drawbar.

 

[gregs]

If you’re going to be cutting and welding why not just get some proper sized steel square tube and make your own?

Probably because it would take more time and money.

 

[gregs]

Yes. It’s a function off finding ones that are long enough and have enough of 2” tube on top to swap the bracket to. Or I just add a receiver to my existing drawbar like my original concept. 6 of one , half a dozen of another.

 

[JeepYJ]

Probably because it would take more time and money.

You started this thread 5 1/2 hours ago. You could weld one up in that time. Drop steel is <$1/pound at a local steel shop.

 

[gregs]

You started this thread 5 1/2 hours ago. You could weld one up in that time. Drop steel is <$1/pound at a local steel shop.

Well that’s silly. Steel supplier isn’t open on Sundays.