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Hobart Welders? Thoughts

loveoftiki

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See Amazon has the Hobart 130 for a fair price. It's supposedly same as a Miller 130. It got good reviews, so any thoughts here.
 
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djkeev

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What are you welding? Sheet metal, thin steel? I've got the 140, I'm running argon gas mixture in it. Couldn't be happier. However if you are going to be welding farm implements and heavy steel go bigger.

The 120v household current feature is quite nice if you move it around quite a bit as I do.

Dave
 

Falcon67

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Have a Handler 140 - great machine. Does 90% of what I need. If I get a do-over, I will buy a multi-volt (110/240) machine. As noted, if you want to do heavy stuff - trailers, .120 up wall tubing in diameters like 1 1/2" and such, you will need a 190A 240V or better unit.
 

Doozer

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I bought a Hobart EZ125 Flux Core a few years ago. It works fantastic, and never had an issue. The Flux Core wire splatters and can make an ugly weld at times. But I have used it to weld everything from oil pans, fuel tank cage, cross members on my race car, to a tire rack for the trailer. Even welded 1/4" plate for the trailer, and I had good heat penetration too. You will out grow a smaller welder quickly. Like with anything practice makes perfect and you will outgrow and "easy to use" welder. And then the ugly welds will be more of an issue to you. But as for Hobart as a brand. They are great welders. I would definitely buy another one.

Something to think about. Hobart offers a 5 year warranty on their stuff. They also sell refurbished welders at a much cheaper price. They take welders not older than 2 years, and make them new again. And then offer the remaining time on that original 5 year warranty. Mine was refurbished, and it looked brand new when I got it. You would have no idea it was rebuilt. I bought mine refurbished for 60% of what it would have been new. And still had 3 1/2 years on the warranty.
 
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Stainless169

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Like said above.. it really depends on what you"ll be using it for.

When I bought my 140.. I knew it had it's limitations and that it would be used for stuff around the house. I bought a stick welder for the heavier duty projects but I rarely used the stick welder.

Another thing to keep in mind with the wire welder is that for you to get the best out of them, you'll also have to lease or buy a bottle of 75/25 for the shield. Flux welding on a wire welder looked crappy to me.

I recently sold my 140 and purchased a Millermatic 211. That's one sweet welder there.
 
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chadman

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I have a Hobart 187 MIG. Ten times better than the Lincoln POS I replaced with it. Hobarts are very nice Welders and are made by Miller. They just tend to not have some of the bells and whistles the Millers have like AotoSet. They actually share many of the same parts. My buddy ordered a replacement switch for his gun and it came packaged as "Miller" on the package. I also have a Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIG. Hobart doesn't make anything compareable to that in a TIG or I probably would have went that route.
 

Falcon67

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Another thing to keep in mind with the wire welder is that for you to get the best out of them, you'll also have to lease or buy a bottle of 75/25 for the shield. Flux welding on a wire welder looked crappy to me

My C25 mix bottle was $50/yr, just went and bought it and was out around $300. Will save in the long run as I only fill it every 2-3 years.
 

antinym

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I repeat all the sentiments here. I have the HH187. I'm glad I went with the 240v machine as I do some heavier stuff. 6mm thick steel.
It if was all 1-3mm I'm sure the 140 would have done fine.
Great machine. no issues yet.
 

JasonTX

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I have the Hobart 130, run with gas since day one. Unbeatable. I use it mostly for 1/4 and under, occaisionally well prepped and "V'd" thicker. Well worth what I paid for it. I'll upgrade to a 220v machine one day, but only because my brother wants to buy the 130.
 

IndyGarage

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I think the Auto Arc 130 might be and entry level import model made in China and rebadged by Hobart.

You'll notice on the pictures it says Auto Arc on the side, not Hobart.

It's not part of the handler series, and they don't even show it on their internet page.

That said, it's $200 less than the Handler 140 - which is $200 cheaper than the Handler 190 (which replaced the 187 that everyone loves)
 

Jack Olsen

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Hobart and Miller are different companies and the machines are manufactured in different facilities (Miller in Wisconsin and Hobart in Ohio, I think). However, both companies are owned by Illinois Tool Works, so there is some integration of parts and components.

Both Miller and Hobart make great welders. I had a HH 140 and was never disappointed with it. Now I have a Miller 211, and I like it too.
 
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brownbagg

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holbarts are good machine, the company itself is very into welding not just selling equipment. they have an holbart college of welding. true college
 

dodgeramsst2003

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Love my HH handler 175, but it's about the smallest machine I would own. I have used both a lincoln and miller 110V machine and they were great for welding exhaust pipes, or really thin stuff, but you can max them out in a hurry! I also found that they really only welded well with flux core. I'm a decent welder but no expert, had a course in school and lots of on the job training. If I were you and you have a 220V plug I'd go for the bigger one.
 

cams1021

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I've had my Ironman 210 for a few years now and I really like it. Does everything I need to do. Reliable and most welding/gas supply places stock consumables. The tweco style gun and lead/liner say miller right on them.
 
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loveoftiki

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I think the Auto Arc 130 might be and entry level import model made in China and rebadged by Hobart.

You'll notice on the pictures it says Auto Arc on the side, not Hobart.

It's not part of the handler series, and they don't even show it on their internet page.

That said, it's $200 less than the Handler 140 - which is $200 cheaper than the Handler 190 (which replaced the 187 that everyone loves)

Thats the one I was looking at. Some of the reviews sounded very positive. I would be doing mainly sheet metal work and the odd chassis stuff. I would also put gas to it. Thanks for all the input so far
 

Norcal

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Just a FYI, Hobart & Miller share the same parent company, ITW.
 

bmxr4life87

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Handler 140 here with a 75/25 mix and a 10lb spool of hf .035 wire I love my welder it will do 1/4 if you take your time that being said I use a miller 211 at work almost daily and in highschool used a 251 they are both beasts but not what I personally need for my home uses. Your mileage may vary
 

Ign

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I've had my Ironman 210 for a few years now and I really like it. Does everything I need to do. Reliable and most welding/gas supply places stock consumables. The tweco style gun and lead/liner say miller right on them.

And this is really the only downside of any Hobart/Miller product. Ditch the M10 gun for, well, anything else (like Tweco) and you'll be happy. However not worth it for the sub-140 machines, esp if not equipped for gas.
 

BD1

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i sure hope that who ever is using a 120 volt machine is not using it for something that could be life threating or result in a injury. Especially on a trailer. :lol_hitti
 

78Bird

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If you know what you're doing no reason not to use the 120v machine for anything that's in it's capability. Not like the electricity coming from 120v outlets is bad.

I have a HH140, nothing but praise. Just realize the limits of a 120v machine and if that's not a problem for your use, go for it.
 

Doozer

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i sure hope that who ever is using a 120 volt machine is not using it for something that could be life threating or result in a injury. Especially on a trailer. :lol_hitti

Not sure what you mean by that. Are you just assuming that because it plugs into a regular outlet it can't possibly make a strong weld? If you don't know how to weld, the machine is irrelevant. I check everything I weld, because on the racecar it matters. If the heat didn't penetrate to the other side and the weld didn't penetrate into the metal. Then it gets redone. You could take a 220v welder on the wrong setting and lay a bead about as strong as a bead of caulk. So to just randomly say that a 120v welder isn't safe to use because it's not 220v is kind of foolish.

Every welder has it's limitations. The limitations of mine are weld splatter, a short duty cycle, and useless on stuff thicker than 1/4". As for it being safe, and making strong welds. It is and it does.
 

BD1

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Not sure what you mean by that. Are you just assuming that because it plugs into a regular outlet it can't possibly make a strong weld? If you don't know how to weld, the machine is irrelevant. I check everything I weld, because on the racecar it matters. If the heat didn't penetrate to the other side and the weld didn't penetrate into the metal. Then it gets redone. You could take a 220v welder on the wrong setting and lay a bead about as strong as a bead of caulk. So to just randomly say that a 120v welder isn't safe to use because it's not 220v is kind of foolish.

Every welder has it's limitations. The limitations of mine are weld splatter, a short duty cycle, and useless on stuff thicker than 1/4". As for it being safe, and making strong welds. It is and it does.

Boy , that is really scary to me. Post this question on a real welding site and see the real response to get. If you are doing this you have big ba##s
and hope you wear a helmet and body armor.
 

countryroad82

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I have an old 135 (predecessor to the 140) that has served me well through the years. I had to put a new circuit board in it recently because of a bad contactor. Other than that it has done very well for me.
 

Doozer

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I didn't say I was building cars, or welding roll cages. But everything I have welded has held. The tubing breaks before my welds do. If I ever have to front half the frame and rebuild half the car. It will have to go on a jig and it will be TIG welded. For what I use it for it works. Would TIG welding a bumper be stronger, of course. Is it necessary to TIG a bumper, absolutely not. So I spend my money on other things.

If you have $10,000 to spend on a welder, you aren't asking questions about a Hobart on a garage forum. But not everyone is the same. Some people think the cheapo stuff can do everything just as good. Others know the limits of what they have and it works for what they need it for. And some need to have the biggest greatest thing-a-ma-bob because you never know when Nasa will start the shuttle program back up and you need to have that tool just in case, and never use it for what it's for.

So OP....don't take my advice. Stay away from 120v welders, they are useless. Buy this instead http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/dynasty_700/, it will do all of your "around the house" projects.
 

GarageEnvy

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I've used a Hobart 135 for my garage hobby stuff for years with no issues. I'm just an amateur but I did weld up a trailer with it and a play tower for my kids. I had a 35 year pro looking over my shoulder and welding with me on the trailer. I never had any problems with the welds failing. It was mostly .120 wall tubing. I think that's a very comfortable thickness for 110 welders. I wouldn't go much more with it.
 

Falcon67

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I welded a roll bar with my 140. Prep and care are required, but it can be done. Takes a lot longer than it might with a 190 or 211 machine for sure. Penetration is penetration. Test, test, test.
 

Robert L

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I bought the hobart ac/dc stick welder for basic welds around the house, I couldnt be happier. I also would like to purchase the TIG welder that hobart makes for stronger welds.
I think they are great machines for the hobbyist.
 

tlmartin84

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I have a 140 and LOVE IT. You can plug it in anywhere......

I run 75/25 with mine. A lot of guys are knocking the size of material you can weld but 1/4" with flux core and gas is pretty easy in a single pass. Thats as big as I go with single passes, after that its multiple and capping.....my .02 cents
 

Zeke

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I welded a roll bar with my 140. Prep and care are required, but it can be done. Takes a lot longer than it might with a 190 or 211 machine for sure. Penetration is penetration. Test, test, test.

I did so as well. I also did test pieces and had them cut, polished and swabbed with nitric acid. Penetration was fine using flux core. GMAW is more limited.

For 1/4" I use stick. I never have any trouble getting pen with the right rod and amps.

Welding equipment manufacturers are scrambling to bring out new products constantly. What that does is make the older models a little more obsolete and little faster. Hence, the prices soften.

You can buy used 240v MIGS pretty well if you look hard. Somewhere on your house you have 240. Run a fat cord. It's no different than a circuit in conduit as long as the wire size, length of run and breaker match.
 

brownbagg

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i got a miller 135 110 volts, nothing wrong with it but its basically worthless for welding. i usually pick up the stick or tig machine. the 110 machines are really just sheetmetal welders
 

jjpp

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Just be warned the small machine's don't come with a regulator for using gas, you have to purchase it separately.
I spent a lot of time researching between Horbart, Miller, and Lincoln before going for the Miller 211. The 211 is multi voltage and can be used with 120v or 240v, you just can't do as thick of material on 120v. I believe Hobart now has a similar machine.
That being said you get what you pay for, the main difference between the Miller's and the Hobart's is that Miller's wire feed is metal and infinitely adjustable and the Hobart's are plastic and tapped settings. Go to the Miller website forum there is a lot of good info on both there.
The Hobart brand is well regarded and I wouldn't think twice about buying one at the right price.
 
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