Hobbiest CNCs
- Thread starter will335i
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Most of the smaller units will use the Bosch or Dewalt model trim routers like you posted. The next step is the 2-1/4HP units like the Dewalt DW618, Hitachi M12VC etc. After that you have the true spindle motors.
Are you going with a proprietary pre-built unit, a kit, or are you going the DIY way? That answer will give us a direction because it makes a huge difference in $$$ as well as time/energy.
Before we get started the most important factor in CNC routers is it's mechanical rigidity. Cheap units built with inferior frames will deflect under load and cause you more headache than what they are worth.
Are you going with a proprietary pre-built unit, a kit, or are you going the DIY way? That answer will give us a direction because it makes a huge difference in $$$ as well as time/energy.
Before we get started the most important factor in CNC routers is it's mechanical rigidity. Cheap units built with inferior frames will deflect under load and cause you more headache than what they are worth.
I think I am looking at Kit/DIY to keep the cost down. I don't have any specific plans right now which is why I am looking to see what people here have and what they are using them for and what they think of them.
The Mill Right Mega V is the one that has my attention right now.
Being able to handle 80% lowers would be a huge bonus but not a must.
The Mill Right Mega V is the one that has my attention right now.
Being able to handle 80% lowers would be a huge bonus but not a must.
I have a Carbide 3D Shapeoko 3 XXL. I've had it a few years now and it works very well.
More recently I upgraded from the DeWalt router to a spindle with the new Carbide heavy duty setup.
One thing to consider is software compatibility. I use Fusion 360 for modeling and CAM/toolpaths.
More recently I upgraded from the DeWalt router to a spindle with the new Carbide heavy duty setup.
One thing to consider is software compatibility. I use Fusion 360 for modeling and CAM/toolpaths.
Any pictures of your projects?
Would be interested in the details and how much the project ran you.
jhracer
Member
I have the Avid Pro4848. It's sold as a kit and it took a couple of days to put it together. I stepped up to the spindle. Not the cheapest way to go but it seems to be very rigid and can handle higher feed rates. I didn't want to buy or build a machine twice. I've been using it for 6 months and couldn't be happier. Using Vcrave pro to program and it's done everything I have needed.
scubadoober
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2017
- Messages
- 511
I have built a bunch of DIY CNC's over the last decade.
Frames I've built are typically made from 80/20 aluminum extrusion with some combination of lead screw and/or rack and pinion drive system. You can also, step up to ballscrews for better precision. Linear travel can be done a bunch of different ways and there is no right or wrong answer as long as there is some level of precision. From precision linear rails, supported and unsupported linear shafts/rods, and typical ball bearing configuration. Again, deflection is the enemy of CNC routers so some kind of supported linear travel is a huge positive in that regard.
I'm a K.I.S.S. in regards to electronics so, a GeckoDrive G540 based system is my go to. It might be a little more expensive than other options but it is tried and true.
On the computer software side I always recommend Vectric for CAM/CAD software because the user interface is awesome. VCarve is where I would start for simple 2D carvings and Aspire is awesome if you want/need more functionality into 3D stuff. Vectric ain't cheap but it is awesome software. I still use Mach 3 for my machines as my post-processor/controller software.
Frames I've built are typically made from 80/20 aluminum extrusion with some combination of lead screw and/or rack and pinion drive system. You can also, step up to ballscrews for better precision. Linear travel can be done a bunch of different ways and there is no right or wrong answer as long as there is some level of precision. From precision linear rails, supported and unsupported linear shafts/rods, and typical ball bearing configuration. Again, deflection is the enemy of CNC routers so some kind of supported linear travel is a huge positive in that regard.
I'm a K.I.S.S. in regards to electronics so, a GeckoDrive G540 based system is my go to. It might be a little more expensive than other options but it is tried and true.
On the computer software side I always recommend Vectric for CAM/CAD software because the user interface is awesome. VCarve is where I would start for simple 2D carvings and Aspire is awesome if you want/need more functionality into 3D stuff. Vectric ain't cheap but it is awesome software. I still use Mach 3 for my machines as my post-processor/controller software.
1Garageman
Well-known member
I am very interested in getting one also. I'd like to pay less than $350. I am trying to think of all of the things I would create with it to justify buying it in the first place. Do you guys have any pictures of some objects that you have created with your CNC ?
There is another thread about that machine on GJ. I would steer clear of a machine built like that.
IMO $350 is not really a budget for a decent CNC... DIY or otherwise.
Depending on the size a decent framework, drive system, and linear travel CNC is going to probably be more than your budget. The 80/20 frames I build have a working envelope that is anywhere from 18"x24" all the way up to 4'x8'. Even the smallest size machine will easily wipe-out that budget.
Electronics are also probably going to exceed a $350 depending on what you go with as far as drivers and motors.
Lastly, software can be open sourced so, you can probably make that happen. If you were to work with what I've suggested earlier, I think Vectric charges around $600 for VCarve and Mach 3 I think still costs a hundred or two.
HTH
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I depends on what you want to do. My Chinese CNC router/laser is just about $200. The work envelop is tiny, but within its limits it works great. You can scale that up to a decent size for $400. You are definitely not going to go 4x8 at that price.
On a $350 budget, I would stick with 2x2 or smaller. GRBL based controller with TMC2208 stepper drivers, Nema 23 motors, 36 volt ANTEK power supply, and 8 mm rails. Use Fusion for your CAD/CAM and BCNC for your control. 80/20 is good, but over kill you can make the machine out of plywood.
It would not be the fastest or stiffest thing, but it would definitely get the job done. I ran my mill of this setup for a while Linky. I out grew it quickly on the mill, but it worked and I had less the $200 in it (Not counting the mill)
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A person has to be knowledgeable enough to understand what a CNC router is fully capable of to see the deficits of that design. If you want to just do simple 2D cut-outs and 2D work that do not require a high level of precision then it might fit the bill. With that being said, it isn't anything that I would ever consider giving its limitations.
BTW thanks for the tone of your post, it is extremely helpful to the discussion. Take a deep breath there is more than one way to skin a cat and if that machine works for you, good on you.
I know several people who have one. They are a super need idea and science project, but I don't know anyone who is happy with them. As a toy or an introduction to motion control, I think they are great.
They have several problems. First, there is no z control. Everything has to be a continuous cut or the user has to repluge the router for every piece. The bricks also don't do a great job holding the base to the wood. If the wood is not consistent, they tend to jump. Finally the motion control is different from pretty much any other routers. Your axes are rotated and not necessarily square to one another. You also have to account for gravity in the motion. They also cut dramatically better going up hill. There is only one post processor that I am aware of for programming them. It is okay, but it is definitely toy level. The math is not actually that bad and as an educational project I highly recommend figuring it out.
You are right many thing have been made with one. However the same projects could have been achieved with a chisel and a mallet. Just because it is a tool, doesn't mean it is a good one.
Darby9
Well-known member
What kind of tolerances do you need to finish the lowers? That seems more like a CNC milling machine job, rather than a CNC router job, at least as a low scrap rate, make-it-efficiently effort. In general, what kind of projects do you want to make besides those?
FWIW--I have a Tormach 770 milling machine, Solidworks for CAD, HSMWorks for CAM/toolpathing. Very different price point than the Mill Right (10x the cost, 0.25X the working area
) It's a good machine within its limitations. It's neither a router and a brick nor a Mori Seiki VMC, but it works for what I do.