Hold downs & Clamps

[Jackfre]

I had a friend give me a piece of 3/4 x 32 x42" plate which I've built into a welding table. There are plenty of pics of everyone's tables, but what fixtures, jigs, clamps etc are you using. Which of them have you fabricated.

This is a hobbyist project, but I'm going to be building some trellis', gates, fencing and general pipe work (that was my trade, light years ago). I'll be doing some bending of metal on this table as well.

Right now I have to make some forks for the tractor so I can move this thing.

 

[catalytic]

There are 4 clamps to have if you do general fabrication work IMHO. These are:

1. Bessey welding clamps. I prefer the lever type (of the lever types, SGHS lever style are my favorite, but they're only available in Europe). Many others like the screw type -- these go to higher pressures.

2. Carver welding clamps. These are even heavier than the Bessey clamps and slightly more protected from weld splatter

3. Kant Twist clamps. These are fantastic for smaller work -- far preferable to a C clamp.

4. Vise grips. Can never have too many. I love my 310s and 318s (bar with swiveling pad) ones for general work (obsolete, but they turn up from time to time).

*edit: for pipe work, you can buy or make 'V' jaws for all of the clamps I mentioned (some Kant Twist clamps come with a 'V' groove already milled). It can sometimes be a challenge to get them onto a pipe even with 'v' jaws, though -- best to affix the 'v' to the non swiveling jaw pad.

Also, definitely get/make yourself a right angle jig and some nice welding clamps (not the cheapie harbor freight ones).

Personally, I love all of the clamps I listed above and use them quite a bit. I do know guys who do most everything with tack welding and taps of the hammer, though -- that might save you a small fortune in clamps.

 

[bulletpruf]

There are 4 clamps to have if you do general fabrication work IMHO. These are:

1. Bessey welding clamps. I prefer the lever type (of the lever types, SGHS lever style are my favorite, but they're only available in Europe). Many others like the screw type -- these go to higher pressures.

2. Carver welding clamps. These are even heavier than the Bessey clamps and slightly more protected from weld splatter

3. Kant Twist clamps. These are fantastic for smaller work -- far preferable to a C clamp.

4. Vise grips. Can never have too many. I love my 310s and 318s (bar with swiveling pad) ones for general work (obsolete, but they turn up from time to time).

*edit: for pipe work, you can buy or make 'V' jaws for all of the clamps I mentioned (some Kant Twist clamps come with a 'V' groove already milled). It can sometimes be a challenge to get them onto a pipe even with 'v' jaws, though -- best to affix the 'v' to the non swiveling jaw pad.

Also, definitely get/make yourself a right angle jig and some nice welding clamps (not the cheapie harbor freight ones).

Personally, I love all of the clamps I listed above and use them quite a bit. I do know guys who do most everything with tack welding and taps of the hammer, though -- that might save you a small fortune in clamps.

-The Bessey welding clamps look nice, but not cheap. Don't see many used on eBay.

-Can't find Carver welding clamps on eBay.

-The vise grip 310s are EXPENSIVE!

Scott

 

[dr_clyde]

Look at Strong Hand tools. They specialize in welding clamps and jigging. I have dozens of their bessey style clamps and they are great. Especially for the money. I also have their table jig clamps, and a 3 way right angle fixture. All are excellent quality.

 

[catalytic]

Look at Strong Hand tools. They specialize in welding clamps and jigging. I have dozens of their bessey style clamps and they are great. Especially for the money. I also have their table jig clamps, and a 3 way right angle fixture. All are excellent quality.

This is good advice -- SH clamps have a great rep. Be sure to compare clamping pressure to Bessey's before you buy, though -- SH look very similar, but some models have significantly lower clamping pressure (not really an issue for most work -- just noting this so you can compare apples to apples). Personally, I like my 9000N force clamps a lot better than my 4500N clamps -- they just feel a lot more solid when you're trying to make something fit. In the lever types, the higher force ones also have much bigger teeth on the ratcheting mechanism. Small teeth make me a little nervous, since they feel like they're going to pop loose with vibration (hammering or whatever), although I guess I haven't actually experienced that problem.

One more option is Jorgensen 7200 series. These are I-beam woodworking clamps with pressure capacities that compare (or exceed) Bessey's welding clamps (although the jaws are much shorter = much less leverage against them). For some setups, they're actually a lot easier to use, since the work can rest against the I-beam until you clamp it (rather than having the jaws slide around awkwardly while you try to set a Bessey -- this happens in some setups).

Also, check these out:
http://www.piher.com/es/4-aprietos-fundicion-profesionales

They are somewhat hard to find stateside, but they are actually a piston-design (not a screw like the Bessey's). The screw pushes a piston up into the work. This makes them somewhat more resistant to weld spatter and reduces the twisting force exerted on your work (the part where as you tighten the screw clamp, the last twist turns your piece out of alignment). I know some UK guys who really like them.

 

[sberry]

Start with a couple common Cclamps an vise grip 11r and go from there, Its unlikely you need expensive heavy fab clamps right off the bat, I been at this 35 yrs and dont have every one they ever invented. There is a difference in home garage than heavy equipment repair.

 

[koditten]

I second that Cary.

Must haves:

2", 4", 6" "C" clamps

bar clamps are great for truing up square items.

Web straps can get used alot in fabbing as well.

Those fab tables look nice, but I don't think I could bring myself to use the table like they are intended.

I like to be able to weld brakets to my fab table. I don't know if I could do that if I had a nice table with clamp grooves cut into it. I beat the **** out of that thing, then just grind it flat a couple times a year.

 

[Kevin54]

If you have threaded holes in your table, get a set of these that most commonly are used on mills. usually the threads are 1/2-13. You have the studs, different length of clamps, and your risers. If you need taller, just purchase a piece of All-Thread and use it to extend your clamping height.

If you are not familiar with them, this is how they are used, only yours would be used in threaded holes instead of a "T" slot.

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[catalytic]

I second that Cary.

Must haves:

2", 4", 6" "C" clamps

.....

I actually can't stand 'C' clamps. I always find that no matter what I do, something twists out of alignment when I tighten them down. Kant Twist and copies cost no more than industrial 'C' clamps and come up used frequently. Just my 2 cents.

 

[tarbellb]

Havent used a C-clamp in 5+ yrs now. Cant stand them, the setup time and limited opening makes them my very last resort.

I went with Bessey med duty bar clamps in 6",12",18",24",36", and 48" varieties. Well worth the extra bucks if you are using them on a daily or even weekly basis.

Kantwist are awesome but pricey, and any Vise-grip like will be good for thin gauge stuff.

 

[koditten]

I actually had to look up the Kant twist clamps. Neat units.

I'm prolly to old to start using them now. I could see myself reaching right past them to use what I have been using for the last 30 years.

If I come across any in sale I might pick them up for reaserch sake.

 

[sberry]

I don't care for the fancy tables either, been in a couple shops where owners bought that stuff at a sale cause it seemed like a good idea, junk collectors for the most part. Simple flat top, doesn't need to be heavier than 1/2, my own is a little light at 1/4 but works with overhang and square is good and really don't care much about flat. This allows for common clamps. It allows he welding bench to be a bench instead of a "welding" bench.
I am sure once in a while there is a guy that uses a few of the 48 holes in the top but its fewer than anticipated.

I got nothing against it all, would snag some at a sale but no need to park a lot of money in clamps for general fab by the hobby crowd. Buy as needed or as deals come along.

 

[johndeereman]

I'M going to side with KEVIN54 on the setup stud set. Comes in handy when needed otherwise just use the flat 4x6x1/2'' top.

 

[Carves]

Bought one of these a while back ...

Has been handy to have - and will probably get a couple more.