A pic of the rough casting and drawing/sketch of finished part would go a long way. Not understanding how you get from 5" dia to 2" "thickness".Dimensions are not super critical on this other than >2”00 thickness.
A pic of the rough casting and drawing/sketch of finished part would go a long way. Not understanding how you get from 5" dia to 2" "thickness".
-I'd already suggested/requested more details about the finished part. The reluctance to divulge details is up to the OP and why I backed off.A pic of the rough casting and drawing/sketch of finished part would go a long way.


Sorry to vent but it really bothers me that these parts need to be machined now instead of just cleaning up the sprus.
We are a very small operation. Don’t really have EH&S. But do have a radiation safety officer that will ultimately have to sign off on these being used. I’m pretty sure he will not be against them having a little extra mass to them. I don’t really mind turning lead as I keep a sheet of Al foil under the cut and can collect the majority of the chips. But would still like to keep it to a minimum. I really try and keep it out of the saws and no way am I grinding it!What's your EH&S procedure say for machining lead?
I bet that gives you an out to scrap this and have some cast different
The bits on the top are sprus and vents just for the casting process. Really only interested in the big cylinder bit.-Interesting part. Don't know what you're required to do or the expected tolerances for what some of the features are but if you're going to do 200-300 of these over a few years, even in batch sizes of 10-12 per order, I'd suggest some dedicated tooling for ease/speed/consistency. If the hole goes through then perhaps use a mandrel, if not then perhaps a drive or cup center. Both would enable turning the entire OD between centers in one operation without flipping. matching, or deforming a turned OD. I have plenty of other thoughts/opinions but you're the one making the chips and the decisions so whatever you decide is the last word.
We are a very small operation. Don’t really have EH&S.
I have worked for a few large companies and have been on safety committees. l totally agree with you. I’m the only machinist and I can assure you that I don’t take safety precautions lightly. I have and use respirators, p-paps and tyvecs and use them. Although I do sometimes wear sandals!!Blows my mind you're doing what you doing apparently by the seat of your pants. I'm reasonably sure you're required to have a lead safety program in place to machine lead, let alone if you had cast a sample.
Place is probably an OSHA field day at best.
SMH
I do like the idea of turning between centers. But especially for turning off the sprues I don’t think it would be great with an inturupted cut. I don’t have a taper attachment. I’ll have to check the throw on my cross slide. I haven’t used this particular lathe very much. I’m pretty sure I’ll have to flip the part. I’ll likely have to bore out the center hole also. I wish I had a dro on this lathe, but I do have a couple long travel indicators. I for sure need to fix the tail stock first thing. I’m sure you are correct that it is part of the holding mechanism. Funny because I’ve used it before, but it’s been just sitting for a couple years. Parts can’t have run off too far. Tail stock is pretty cool, has a lever that can give the quill a 2-1 gear ratio to the hand wheel.-Interesting part. Don't know what you're required to do or the expected tolerances for what some of the features are but if you're going to do 200-300 of these over a few years, even in batch sizes of 10-12 per order, I'd suggest some dedicated tooling for ease/speed/consistency. If the hole goes through then perhaps use a mandrel, if not then perhaps a drive or cup center. Both would enable turning the entire OD between centers in one operation without flipping. matching, or deforming a turned OD. I have plenty of other thoughts/opinions but you're the one making the chips and the decisions so whatever you decide is the last word.
I thought about that, but only have regular and super fine on hand. I usually do use sharpie. But wanted more coverage on this so I might be able to see better while turning.-A wide Sharpie will work, I often prefer it to Dykem as it leaves a thinner coat and less mess to clean off. You're the boss.
-The variety of Sharpie's make for good, low cost aids in different operations. Not only the widths but even the colors leave a different film thickness, especially when layered. Maybe that's been more useful to me in approaching a target when surface grinding and .0001's matter. Coverage has more control too, a Dykem brush gets everywhere. I still like/use Dykem just not as much as I used to.I thought about that, but only have regular and super fine on hand. I usually do use sharpie. But wanted more coverage on this so I might be able to see better while turning.
-Any excuse will do.Kinda want a cross slide power adapter too and this will give me an excuse to make one.
-If you're like many of us I'll start the timer for how long that lasts.And my welding table is almost completely clean!
I made one using lost PLA investment casting. We will most likely be making like a couple hundred of these. I’m not doing it! The one I did make took two propane forges with 15kg crucibles.I'm curious as to why you even need a sand casting? We used to melt lead in a soup can with a propane torch and poor them into holes drilled in wood to make weights for various things. Get a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter, weld a cap on it with a thread for a forcing screw. Pour lead in pipe, use forcing screw to extract lead from pipe, repeat.