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hole saw problems

jeffmoss26

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May 25, 2011
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Guys-
I was installing a bunch of door knobs yesterday with the help of my Dewalt door knob installation kit.
Everything went fine, but I had a HELL of a time changing the hole saws out between drilling the latch and the backset, as the kit only came with one arbor. There was a lot of swearing and improper usage of flathead screwdrivers throughout the hour it took me to install half a dozen locks.

What are my options as far as quick change arbors, spare arbors, things like that? I almost never use hole saws so this is one area of tools I do not have much knowledge in.

Thanks!!
 
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NIDDLE

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Jan 26, 2013
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What i do at work is wrap a piece of solid #12 copper wire arount the arbor right below the threads, trim it up to where the ends meet. Theres usually a little groove there that the wire fits like it was meant to be there. It makes changing hole saws alot easier, the hole saw doesn't seize up on the arbor (kinda like a thrust washer). Hope this helps.
 

FiveFinger

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Dec 25, 2012
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I had the same problem a few weeks ago doing a single door. I am kind of interested to see the responses.
 

Monte

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<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ly439fPYM1I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

lbgradwell

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I carry an 11/32" combo wrench in my kit. It fits the arbor and gives me the leverage I need to unscrew the damned thing if I grip the hole saw with the other hand...
 

Justin1776

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I've been wanting to get one of these for a while (only reason I haven't is due to limited use of holesaws with the small arbor size):

 

signcrafter

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I just looked at a video of the dewalt door lock kit. It only comes with one arbor, the small one. Go buy another arbor meant for the bigger hole saws. Use the current arbor with the smaller size hole saw and use the new arbor for the bigger hole saw. The bigger arbors have two pins in them that engage the hole saw to prevent it from spinning so tight you can't get it off.

Here's a dewalt quick change arbor, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RGZQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

balrog

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Mar 31, 2009
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+1 to what signcrafter suggested. Get both size arbors.

Are you installing on wood or metal doors? If it is wood, you could use the 2-1/8" hole saw on the arbor for the crossbore and a 1" paddle bit for the latch and strike . That way you do not need to change back and forth.

I have used the Bosch quick change system at work and it is fast to swap out. A minor down side is the OAL is a bit more compared to a traditional arbor. In a few rare cases, I have had clearance issues. Another thing is the Bosch arbor will not allow you to stack two different sized hole saws on one arbor when enlarging an existing hole. The standard large threaded two pin arbor will let you thread on two holesaws. The smaller one matches the existing diameter hole for to be used as a pilot or guide and the larger hole saw is your new target size.

Next time you are installing a lot of lockests, set up a few drills. Leave one with the large arbor/ 2-1/8" hole saw. The second one with the 1" paddle bit and a third small cordless driver with a #2 phillips bit installed. This is a huge timesaver.
 
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jeffmoss26

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These were on wooden doors. I did not think of bringing paddle bits but it certainly would have helped. Now that I think about it, I do have an extra 1" hole saw with arbor, I will see if that fits and if so, it will go with the drill kit!
I don't expect to do a whole lot more of these, but this was for family and you know how that goes!
 
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NUTTSGT

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I bought a cheaper hole saw kit several years ago, it has served me well. Last Summer while at HD, I found a Rigid bi-metal set clearance for $20 so I bought it and still haven't used it yet.

I did buy a good bigger hole saw (Lennox, I believe) along with the arbor too, My thoughts were to buy the hole saws as I needed them.
 

signcrafter

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These were on wooden doors. I did not think of bringing paddle bits but it certainly would have helped. Now that I think about it, I do have an extra 1" hole saw with arbor, I will see if that fits and if so, it will go with the drill kit!
I don't expect to do a whole lot more of these, but this was for family and you know how that goes!

Just make sure whatever arbor you use for the bigger hole saw has those pins that go in the holes on the bottom of the hole saw. Those are what stop it from getting so tight you can't get it off. An arbor for a 1 inch hole saw probably doesn't have pins.
 

Automatic Slim

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In a shack by the river in Central Arkansas
+1 to what signcrafter suggested. Get both size arbors.

Are you installing on wood or metal doors? If it is wood, you could use the 2-1/8" hole saw on the arbor for the crossbore and a 1" paddle bit for the latch and strike . That way you do not need to change back and forth.

I have used the Bosch quick change system at work and it is fast to swap out. A minor down side is the OAL is a bit more compared to a traditional arbor. In a few rare cases, I have had clearance issues. Another thing is the Bosch arbor will not allow you to stack two different sized hole saws on one arbor when enlarging an existing hole. The standard large threaded two pin arbor will let you thread on two holesaws. The smaller one matches the existing diameter hole for to be used as a pilot or guide and the larger hole saw is your new target size.

Next time you are installing a lot of lockests, set up a few drills. Leave one with the large arbor/ 2-1/8" hole saw. The second one with the 1" paddle bit and a third small cordless driver with a #2 phillips bit installed. This is a huge timesaver.

this.

also only drill one side until the pilot bit shows through on the other side, and then insert the hole saw bit on the other side for an easy knock out and cleaner finish.

I bought a set of Milwaukee self feed bits years ago and they can chomp on some wood and personally feel like they have a better bore than a paddle.

also use a hand held trim router to set hinges and hardware. works like a charm.


sounds like you got 'er done, so all is well. hate traveling b/c inevitably I leave out a tool and know exactly where it is in my shop.


Way to get after it, like it - keep up the good work :thumbup:
 
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jeffmoss26

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Thanks guys-always looking for ways to make it easier on myself, and an excuse to buy more tools does not hurt! I plan to buy a larger arbor with pins for the 2 1/8 holesaw.

Eventually, my cousin to replace the exterior hardware (to match the interior, go figure) so I will get to rekey 3 or 4 locks.
I hate taking that stuff on the road, always worried I am going to drop a pin kit.
 

rlitman

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Are you installing on wood or metal doors? If it is wood, you could use the 2-1/8" hole saw on the arbor for the crossbore and a 1" paddle bit for the latch and strike . That way you do not need to change back and forth.

You can, but a paddle is hard to align in the template, and will tear up a plastic template. I've used a forschner bit for this too, but I generally just have a second 1" hole saw on its own arbor. The plastic template just really works well with hole saws, and not much else.
 

WWIIjeep

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May 30, 2012
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I hate taking that stuff on the road, always worried I am going to drop a pin kit.

Yeah, most kits aren't as spill-proof as this:

MVC-002F-16_zpsad8c775a.jpg

MVC-003F-17_zps2c832b8d.jpg


I've had that Schlage kit for 37 years and haven't spilled it yet. :)

FWIW, on some kits, I've stuck a sheet of thin foam drawer liner under the lid to help seal the compartments, and even moved a couple of kits to boxes with better seals and latches.

And +1 on the DeWalt 2-pin hole saw arbors. They're more expensive than most other brands of 2-pin arbors, but they work very well.
 

spotco2

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May 18, 2012
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Location
NW Georgia
We fixed the issue of swapping out arbors on hole saws years ago by simply changing brands to Morse. They have the arbor built on and all you add is a 1/4" pilot bit but we don't even use that.

We do use a 1/4" bit to drill a pilot hole from both sides of the door, meeting in the middle, then use a 1/4" allen wrench with the end cut off as a pilot bit for the hole saws. Cur doors from both sides and let your cuts overlap in the middle.

Paddle bits work well in todays cheap **** semi-wooden doors for the 1" hole. Hole saws tend to fill in quickly and you have to keep cleaning the teeth out. Most of the factory kits come with Forstner bits.
 
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