Holland Yost Vise....help

[Metalmole]

Hi all I have a #33c Holland Yost vise that someone gave me, it was in sad shape as far as the screw goes, the rest is in excellent shape. I got it all apart except for the internal thread boss, there is a pin that needs to come out so the boss can slide out...Problem is how does thet pin come out, I dont see a slot in it like it was screwed in, or does it drive out??.....thanks

 

[Packard V8]

Haven't had that exact vise apart, but all the others I've seen used a drive pin; some tapered, some straight.

jack vines

 

[Catalyze]

Greetings MM!!
Welcome to the world of vise vice!
To get your "Main Nut" out....
1. Remove your "Dynamic Jaw" from the vise....usually you just turn the handle and the jaw will run itself out and the "Lead Screw" will disengage from the "Main Nut".
2. Take the "Main Body"...the one that has the base attached to it....take off the swivel base lock down nuts...maybe one or two depending....just unscrew them off the bolts
3. Turn the Main Body over and on the bottom of the swivel base in the middle you should see a Big nut or bolt in the middle. Unscrew this bolt out and separate the swivel base from the Main Body. Some vises won't have a center bolt (Wilton Bullets don't have one) so do what you need to do.
4. On the Main Body bottom.....off center you should see a small hole....it will have a pin in it sticking up/away from the bottom. This pin sticks up behind the Main Nut and is what keeps you from sliding the main nut backwards in its dovetail and out of the vise.
View media item 8893Take a tapered punch and hit the pin on the bottom....you are going to knock it out from the bottom towards the top (where the nut is at). It will only be sticking in about 1/2" or so. The photo shows the pin removed and where the punch should go.

Once the pin is out, you can attempt to slide the Main Nut backwards in the dovetail and out of the vise. Many times (most) , it will have enough crud that it won't slide. Just use some carb cleaner....solvent....air gun...to remove the crud. Then take a wooden dowel or a PVC pipe (like 1/2" ID or 3/4" ID) and hit the Main Nut from the front to move it backwards. Hit is as LOW as you can. Use a brass drift but try NOT to use a steel tool as that nut is expensive and will crack if you wail on it with hard steel.

Good Luck and keep us posted!
Craig

 

[davesnothere]

That copper color looks sweet on the wilton!

 

[chris fresh]

i'm doin a 33c resto right now,it does have a place to punch out that pin,it's under the swivle base plate.mine doesn't have a nut undernieth tho.

 

[autopts]

Greetings MM!!
Welcome to the world of vise vice!
To get your "Main Nut" out....
1. Remove your "Dynamic Jaw" from the vise....usually you just turn the handle and the jaw will run itself out and the "Lead Screw" will disengage from the "Main Nut".
2. Take the "Main Body"...the one that has the base attached to it....take off the swivel base lock down nuts...maybe one or two depending....just unscrew them off the bolts
3. Turn the Main Body over and on the bottom of the swivel base in the middle you should see a Big nut or bolt in the middle. Unscrew this bolt out and separate the swivel base from the Main Body. Some vises won't have a center bolt (Wilton Bullets don't have one) so do what you need to do.
4. On the Main Body bottom.....off center you should see a small hole....it will have a pin in it sticking up/away from the bottom. This pin sticks up behind the Main Nut and is what keeps you from sliding the main nut backwards in its dovetail and out of the vise.
View media item 8893Take a tapered punch and hit the pin on the bottom....you are going to knock it out from the bottom towards the top (where the nut is at). It will only be sticking in about 1/2" or so. The photo shows the pin removed and where the punch should go.

Once the pin is out, you can attempt to slide the Main Nut backwards in the dovetail and out of the vise. Many times (most) , it will have enough crud that it won't slide. Just use some carb cleaner....solvent....air gun...to remove the crud. Then take a wooden dowel or a PVC pipe (like 1/2" ID or 3/4" ID) and hit the Main Nut from the front to move it backwards. Hit is as LOW as you can. Use a brass drift but try NOT to use a steel tool as that nut is expensive and will crack if you wail on it with hard steel.

Good Luck and keep us posted!
Craig

Gee, I wish I knew what you know....

 

[Metalmole]

Thanks everyone for the advise, got it out, and like auto said... the nut is all cruded up, got it soakin with some pen oil. Will keep ya posted, I dont know what I will have to do till I get the nut out and see if it will thread onto the shaft..........

 

[Catalyze]

Metal - after you let the nut soak a while, take a brass drift or IF you are careful, take a piece of steel stock. Start from the back side of the main body, put the drift against the bottom of the nut as low as you can (try to get into the dovetail) and tap it firmly once or three times. Now go to the front and do the same thing. All you are trying to do is to set up some vibrations to make the nut part from the rust or crud. Go back and forth a few rounds and if it doesn't move then soak it more.

If you can get a gap or two started then your oil can soak down farther every session. Just make sure to not hit it up high where the threads are located. If you find yourself reaching for the Air Hammer.....go inside and have a soda. LOL
Craig

 

[Metalmole]

Got the nut out, Kroil done its job ! I threaded the nut up on the shaft, its nice and smooth. I just have to make the locking coller that holds the shaft in the jaw. I was thinking that I would make the spacer a little thicker to take some of the play out of the vise, what do yall think, has anyone ever made a thicker spacer or added washers to the shaft to take up play???

 

[Packard V8]

I was thinking that I would make the spacer a little thicker to take some of the play out of the vise, what do yall think, has anyone ever made a thicker spacer or added washers to the shaft to take up play???

Pretty much SOP on my vise rebuilds. On the Chas. Parker, I file-fitted the front collar to take out the slack. On other designs, as you indicate, fitting washers behind the boss works. One old vise, the nut had worn enough in the dovetail ways, I had to shim one side. The drive-in pin no longer held the nut tight, so i had to make a spacer to go between the nut and the pin.

They ain't rocket science. Find the play and figure the easiest, most permanent method of taking it out.

jack vines

 

[Catalyze]

Jack has it correct as usual. I too have shimmed between the pin and nut (Prentiss). It is a very common thing to add shims between collar and jaw on the lead screw. A certain poster on this forum actually did the "ultimate" rebuild. He added a roller thrust washer as a shim and drilled/fitted a new bushing in the dynamic jaw to take out any type of radial or axial excess play. He is the super hero of vise restorations!
Craig

 

[Metalmole]

Good to know....I have it almost ready to put some paint on, it had a couple of coats of paint on it, I took a small ballpeen hammer and cracked the paint off, it came off in little sheets in some places. This is going to be a real sweet vise. I will try and get some pictures........