I need to soak my Holley Carb (Made in 1979). I am taking it apart. I have some Napa carb dip+basket that is probably 7-8 years old. How long should I soak my carb? The can says 10-15 minutes but I don't think that will be enough. Thanks!!
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Holley Carb soak time???
- Thread starter johninct
- Start date
Warrenator
Well-known member
No personal experience with old carb dip, sorry, but if it has been tightly sealed and the volume hasn't gone down than whatever chemicals were in there probably are still in there.
Might go like an hour and then see if all the deposits are gone.
Last time I cleaned a carb I boiled it (google "boiling a carburetor") and that worked well. Add a little lemon juice. Spring of parsley is optional.
Might go like an hour and then see if all the deposits are gone.
Last time I cleaned a carb I boiled it (google "boiling a carburetor") and that worked well. Add a little lemon juice. Spring of parsley is optional.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Overnight using ChemDip.
If you want them to look really nice, soda blast them.
If you want them to look really nice, soda blast them.
Depends on what you're using. I have a gallon can of the old Berriman(sp) dip from NAPA and it's some caustic stuff, lye being the active agent, but VERY effective. Worked great on Holley carbs to get the varnish etc off. DO NOT leave the bowls in that stuff too long. There is a "O" ring under the swedged plug above the needle valve/seat and the carb dip will eat em up, (how do I know that) The fix for that was good old JB weld on the plug to seal it up.
yhprum
Well-known member
^^Boiling in water and lemon juice. If you google it, you will see some good beofre and after examples.
Only long enough to get the old, crusted gaskets off.
Take the carb apart as best you can, the further apart the better. Then make sure you neutralize the chemicals and then use low-pressure compressed air to blow all of the internal passages along with the nooks and crannies clean (and dry).
The Holley rebuilt kits are much better than the generic ones you'll find (esp. the power valves).
Take the carb apart as best you can, the further apart the better. Then make sure you neutralize the chemicals and then use low-pressure compressed air to blow all of the internal passages along with the nooks and crannies clean (and dry).
The Holley rebuilt kits are much better than the generic ones you'll find (esp. the power valves).
Hydro Seal, if you can find it anywhere anymore, is /was hands down the best stuff ever. When they stopped making that I went to spray HogWash. Then they stopped making that.
It was a couple hours or so in the hydro seal. With the hog wash, I just sprayed let it set for a few then a healthy dose of 120 psi air.
It was a couple hours or so in the hydro seal. With the hog wash, I just sprayed let it set for a few then a healthy dose of 120 psi air.
NHBandit
Well-known member
Don't remind me about Hydroseal. It pisses me off. It used to be amazing stuff... A few years back I paid $400 bucks for a 5 gallon bucket to clean some vintage Aluminum Triumph motorcycle parts. After soaking for several days with really ****** results I called the parts store I bought it from only to find that they had changed to an "environmentally friendly" formula. Wouldn't take it back and it dosn't work. Bastards.. LoLHydro Seal, if you can find it anywhere anymore, is /was hands down the best stuff ever. When they stopped making that I went to spray HogWash. Then they stopped making that.
It was a couple hours or so in the hydro seal. With the hog wash, I just sprayed let it set for a few then a healthy dose of 120 psi air.
Falcon67
Well-known member
That dip is probably loaded with condensation now, I would not use it - personally. B-12 spray should be enough for it unless it's been under the barn.
SGKent
Banned
Check the parts in 10 - 15 minute increments. You can wash them then put them back in. The chemical will discolor and soften the metal if you leave it too long. A good friend ruined a carb when we were racing by leaving it in over night. Unless a carb is really bad I just wash it off with Berryman's spray outside where it is away from water heaters etc. Berryman's does a great job of cleaning off carbon etc. In fact, if you haven't pulled it off yet spray the carb throat while it is on the car running and you'll clean some of the gunk off the inside of the intake manifold too. Berryman's B12 is a great carb cleaner but not for soaking as it evaporates quickly.
AMCguy
Well-known member
I have Hydro Seal II. My 5 gallon pail is close to twenty years old now and still cleans as fast and as well as when new. About a half to an hour works very well for most engine parts.
Almost all the older formulas (the ones that really work) will take the gold finish off a Holley or Q-Jet. I hope you can live with that.
I have found that the hardest thing to get off is the carbon from the throat area. Instead of soaking it, I spray a little wood stove cleaner (the stuff for cleaning the smoke stains off the glass). The carbon just runs off.
I have also had great results from using oven cleaner on carb bodies. It works in seconds.
Almost all the older formulas (the ones that really work) will take the gold finish off a Holley or Q-Jet. I hope you can live with that.
I have found that the hardest thing to get off is the carbon from the throat area. Instead of soaking it, I spray a little wood stove cleaner (the stuff for cleaning the smoke stains off the glass). The carbon just runs off.
I have also had great results from using oven cleaner on carb bodies. It works in seconds.