Hi. Would a hollow mill head be the tool for my needs? I have a vertical steering spindle on a John Deere B tractor of which approximately the top 2 1/2" of threads are stripped. The threads have been re cut once already, now stripped. There is a washer atop then a 3/4" castle nut. By using the appropriate hollow mill head, my thought would be it will allow a blank canvas to then re cut threads to the next size smaller than 3/4". The tools accessible to me are an angle drill and a 1/2 cordless drill. Thoughts please.
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hollow mill head
- Thread starter CPV
- Start date
RoninB4
Well-known member
I think I may be able to visualize what you're asking but photos or drawing would yield a better answer.
It is a tight area to work so that is why I was thinking the hollow mill head. The top vertical end of the spindle is threaded to presently accept a 3/4" castle nut which holds down a sector gear which is slid on to the spindle having splines.I think I may be able to visualize what you're asking but photos or drawing would yield a better answer.
What I think your asking for is a rotobroach, https://www.hougen.com/cutters/rotabroach-advantage.html or a hollow end mill or something of similar form. I really doubt that rotobroach is going to have an inside diameter that will leave your piece a suitable size for threading. I also doubt that you are going to handhold anything that could do this job with any precision.
You have no way to get the spindle out of the tractor? If you did then a whole lot of options would be available to you.
Are you talking about part # 39 in the following link? https://www.oldjdforyou.com/mm5/mer...e=Pedestalandsteeringassembly&Category_Code=1
lg
no neat sig line
You have no way to get the spindle out of the tractor? If you did then a whole lot of options would be available to you.
Are you talking about part # 39 in the following link? https://www.oldjdforyou.com/mm5/mer...e=Pedestalandsteeringassembly&Category_Code=1
lg
no neat sig line
Last edited:
Hi. I'm trying to find options to fix the issue without having a big self inflicted project. I'm working in a shed where the tractor is parked. As a last resort I thought of parking the tractor under a tree and hoisting the front up then slide the spindle out. Yes, that exploded view you found is the correct part except I would think about finding one for a "B" and with the "roll o matic" attached. Another option is once the spindle is out, then find someone to weld/add material to the threads, then knock down the material. Next, re cut the threads allowing the 3/4" diameter to remain. Nice building and machinery by the way.What I think your asking for is a rotobroach, https://www.hougen.com/cutters/rotabroach-advantage.html or a hollow end mill or something of similar form. I really doubt that rotobroach is going to have an inside diameter that will leave your piece a suitable size for threading. I also doubt that you are going to handhold anything that could do this job with any precision.
You have no way to get the spindle out of the tractor? If you did then a whole lot of options would be available to you.
Are you talking about part # 39 in the following link? https://www.oldjdforyou.com/mm5/mer...e=Pedestalandsteeringassembly&Category_Code=1
lg
no neat sig line
I would think the simplest would be to chuck it up in the lathe, turn and thread it to 11/16. Then use a heavy nut. In my shop I don't know if my lathe is big enough so I would fixture it in my large horizontal mill and use a boring head to turn the end of the shaft to size for threading. I don't know all the stresses in the operation but might consider threading the end of the shaft and putting a bolt in with a spacer to apply force to the sector. I'm assuming that the sector just sees rotary force and not tension forces.
You might consider a threaded split collar, {or two} https://www.google.com/search?q=thr...AHzBJIBAzAuNZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz
Do you know how the threads got damaged in the first place? That might play into how the fix is done.
You might consider a threaded split collar, {or two} https://www.google.com/search?q=thr...AHzBJIBAzAuNZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz
Do you know how the threads got damaged in the first place? That might play into how the fix is done.
RoninB4
Well-known member
To the OP- After seeing what Larry-G posted I can better visualize what you're asking....and it's just what I thought it was. Not good. First off, don't take my reply as an insult as none is intended. So read what I'm going to post carefully.
1) A "hollow head" as you described is possible only under a very strict set of parameters, you'll have none of them
2) Having only hand held power tools to do this with is absurd, you won't be able to control the cutting how you'd need to
3) Even suggesting a fix with the above two conditions means your skill set/knowledge means you should NOT attempt this
4) The threads in question have been stripped, cleaned up, and stripped again. I don't know how this could happen (twice) but if a simple castle nut gets cross threaded (twice) somebody needs to have their toolbox welded shut or be a lot more observant about simple things. Given the application it's likely the damaged threads were never really repaired to begin with and only appeared to be. They weren't.
5) It's possible for the shaft to be drilled/tapped in the center and a bushing/washer cap type arrangement employed but I'd have to see the rest of the assembly in a clear photo (which you haven't supplied) to determine if there's room for this. However, if a simple castle nut can't be threaded on correctly I wouldn't suggest the same person attempt to drill/tap anything that would make matters worse.
6) The above fix can possible be done in place but it's a quick-and-dirty repair. The correct fix would be removing the shaft for welding/lathe work. A threading die will likely NOT cut good threads in weld if the welder doesn't know what he/she is doing, the weld will be rather hard and make it difficult to cut clean threads. Not saying can't be done, there are several other solutions that would take a long post to describe but they all require shaft removal and some effort on your part to supply more info/photos.
I mean no insult by my words but just by your suggestions it tells me you need to hear/read the flat ugly truth. I know this isn't what you want to hear/read but sometimes it's better to pay a professional to observe the methods they use. I wish you good luck, be careful if you hoist that tractor from a tree.
1) A "hollow head" as you described is possible only under a very strict set of parameters, you'll have none of them
2) Having only hand held power tools to do this with is absurd, you won't be able to control the cutting how you'd need to
3) Even suggesting a fix with the above two conditions means your skill set/knowledge means you should NOT attempt this
4) The threads in question have been stripped, cleaned up, and stripped again. I don't know how this could happen (twice) but if a simple castle nut gets cross threaded (twice) somebody needs to have their toolbox welded shut or be a lot more observant about simple things. Given the application it's likely the damaged threads were never really repaired to begin with and only appeared to be. They weren't.
5) It's possible for the shaft to be drilled/tapped in the center and a bushing/washer cap type arrangement employed but I'd have to see the rest of the assembly in a clear photo (which you haven't supplied) to determine if there's room for this. However, if a simple castle nut can't be threaded on correctly I wouldn't suggest the same person attempt to drill/tap anything that would make matters worse.
6) The above fix can possible be done in place but it's a quick-and-dirty repair. The correct fix would be removing the shaft for welding/lathe work. A threading die will likely NOT cut good threads in weld if the welder doesn't know what he/she is doing, the weld will be rather hard and make it difficult to cut clean threads. Not saying can't be done, there are several other solutions that would take a long post to describe but they all require shaft removal and some effort on your part to supply more info/photos.
I mean no insult by my words but just by your suggestions it tells me you need to hear/read the flat ugly truth. I know this isn't what you want to hear/read but sometimes it's better to pay a professional to observe the methods they use. I wish you good luck, be careful if you hoist that tractor from a tree.
jar944
Well-known member
I mean no insult by my words but just by your suggestions it tells me you need to hear/read the flat ugly truth. I know this isn't what you want to hear/read but sometimes it's better to pay a professional to observe the methods they use. I wish you good luck, be careful if you hoist that tractor from a tree.
Or go full hillbilly and weld the castle nut to the shaft.
RoninB4
Well-known member
Not a good suggestion for someone that can't properly thread a nut onto a shaft...twice. They might actually do it.Or go full hillbilly and weld the castle nut to the shaft.
Thanks for the reply. Would it be possible to talk on the phone, where are you located?To the OP- After seeing what Larry-G posted I can better visualize what you're asking....and it's just what I thought it was. Not good. First off, don't take my reply as an insult as none is intended. So read what I'm going to post carefully.
1) A "hollow head" as you described is possible only under a very strict set of parameters, you'll have none of them
2) Having only hand held power tools to do this with is absurd, you won't be able to control the cutting how you'd need to
3) Even suggesting a fix with the above two conditions means your skill set/knowledge means you should NOT attempt this
4) The threads in question have been stripped, cleaned up, and stripped again. I don't know how this could happen (twice) but if a simple castle nut gets cross threaded (twice) somebody needs to have their toolbox welded shut or be a lot more observant about simple things. Given the application it's likely the damaged threads were never really repaired to begin with and only appeared to be. They weren't.
5) It's possible for the shaft to be drilled/tapped in the center and a bushing/washer cap type arrangement employed but I'd have to see the rest of the assembly in a clear photo (which you haven't supplied) to determine if there's room for this. However, if a simple castle nut can't be threaded on correctly I wouldn't suggest the same person attempt to drill/tap anything that would make matters worse.
6) The above fix can possible be done in place but it's a quick-and-dirty repair. The correct fix would be removing the shaft for welding/lathe work. A threading die will likely NOT cut good threads in weld if the welder doesn't know what he/she is doing, the weld will be rather hard and make it difficult to cut clean threads. Not saying can't be done, there are several other solutions that would take a long post to describe but they all require shaft removal and some effort on your part to supply more info/photos.
I mean no insult by my words but just by your suggestions it tells me you need to hear/read the flat ugly truth. I know this isn't what you want to hear/read but sometimes it's better to pay a professional to observe the methods they use. I wish you good luck, be careful if you hoist that tractor from a tree.
RoninB4
Well-known member
PM sent
The threads were damaged only because the sector gear had to be taken off several times to gain access to the eccentric bushing in an unsuccessful attempt to minimize steering wheel travel and front end play. A 2lb. brass hamer was placed over the castle nut and struck with a 2lb. hammer until the spindle dropped down, tractor blocked up of course. Would of done it differently with what I know now. Taking the 4' spindle out of the narrow front end tractor is possible except there is a roll o matic (axels) at the bottom where the two wheels are attached giving an overall length of roughly 5'. The wheels can be removed once the spindle is out but very heavy to maneuver. Also, would have to hoist front end of tractor up with a chain attached to tree. Too bad I don't know someone with a front end loader nearby so the tree method wouldn't have to be used. Thanks in advance.I would think the simplest would be to chuck it up in the lathe, turn and thread it to 11/16. Then use a heavy nut. In my shop I don't know if my lathe is big enough so I would fixture it in my large horizontal mill and use a boring head to turn the end of the shaft to size for threading. I don't know all the stresses in the operation but might consider threading the end of the shaft and putting a bolt in with a spacer to apply force to the sector. I'm assuming that the sector just sees rotary force and not tension forces.
You might consider a threaded split collar, {or two} https://www.google.com/search?q=threaded+split+collar&sxsrf=ALiCzsbYmqhTUywdq2wmXp4-ScGsywbnWw:1664810749591&ei=_f46Y5vVI6SH0PEP2vWXkAI&ved=0ahUKEwjbx-Oqr8T6AhWkAzQIHdr6BSIQ4dUDCA4&oq=threaded+split+collar&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAwyBQgAEIAEMgYIABAeEAgyBQgAEIYDMgUIABCGAzIFCAAQhgMyBQgAEIYDOgoIABBHENYEELADOgQIIxAnOgYIABAeEAc6CAgAEB4QDxAHOggIABAeEAgQBzoHCAAQgAQQDToICAAQHhAIEA1KBAhBGABKBAhGGABQvgxY0SJg2j5oAXABeACAAZ0BiAHzBJIBAzAuNZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz
Do you know how the threads got damaged in the first place? That might play into how the fix is done.
When tractor is driven over rough terrain then spindle would have vertical play/movement. Critical that nut makes solid connection.The threads were damaged only because the sector gear had to be taken off several times to gain access to the eccentric bushing in an unsuccessful attempt to minimize steering wheel travel and front end play. A 2lb. brass hamer was placed over the castle nut and struck with a 2lb. hammer until the spindle dropped down, tractor blocked up of course. Would of done it differently with what I know now. Taking the 4' spindle out of the narrow front end tractor is possible except there is a roll o matic (axels) at the bottom where the two wheels are attached giving an overall length of roughly 5'. The wheels can be removed once the spindle is out but very heavy to maneuver. Also, would have to hoist front end of tractor up with a chain attached to tree. Too bad I don't know someone with a front end loader nearby so the tree method wouldn't have to be used. Thanks in advance.