I have a PLC-2 in service every day at work! They have no plans to replace it any time soon!
Home Automation Schema?
- Thread starter ddawg16
- Start date
I have a PLC-2 in service every day at work! They have no plans to replace it any time soon!
Interesting to see this. Just proves that a workhorse is a workhorse is a workhorse. If it ain't broke, why fix it? Allen-Bradley supplies for a lot of older equipment comes from eBay, I guess...
When PLC-5's were all the rage, I did a contract for a company that was using 2-20s and 2-30s and loved them, but that was around 18 years ago... They may be still using them to this day! Jerryd68 says PLC-5s are large... I think 1770, 1771 series, PLC-3 were large...
I think I'm going to eventually use PLC-5 stuff to do my thing, just have to learn a bit more about wireless remote I/O capability (Or the lack thereof) since my application would be for multiple buildings tied to one processor, and internet tie-in under poor conditions (Just my luck).
PLC5 are workhorses....but your going to find that a ControlLogix platform is cheaper and a lot more powerful.
It's like going from DOS to Windows XP....once you make the change, you don't want to go back.
AB is jacking up the prices of the PLC5 stuff in order to push customers towards the newer hardware. At some point AB is not going to be able to get some of the parts they need. Data Highway is already a legacy com....though I can't say I care for ControlNet much either...Ethernet is cheaper and easier....but systems take way to long to boot up with it...that is where ControlNet shines.
It's like going from DOS to Windows XP....once you make the change, you don't want to go back.
AB is jacking up the prices of the PLC5 stuff in order to push customers towards the newer hardware. At some point AB is not going to be able to get some of the parts they need. Data Highway is already a legacy com....though I can't say I care for ControlNet much either...Ethernet is cheaper and easier....but systems take way to long to boot up with it...that is where ControlNet shines.
I liked DOS!!! And Windoz "stood" on top of it for how many versions??? LOL... Used ICOM, 6200, T-3/T-4 terminals, all that stuff...
Actually, I worked a contract for Allen-Bradley in 1994 - developing ControlLogix - called the Automation Controller until they came up with that name - working on I/O development... Was working there when they made the move from Highland Heights to Mayfield Heights...
ControlLogix has everything going for it, I agree. Haven't checked eBay for any prices yet. Cheaper? Probably not for me, it won't be. I can't afford thousands upon thousands to automate my personal stuff... I'll probably never get this project done.
AB has always done this as they move forward, once a product becomes "legacy" it gets more expensive. I agree that you will find that contrologix is much more capable in todays world. I have systems running that encompass whole plants, I coax controlnet ring thoughout the entire facility running refrigeration equipment, gathering data, monitoring processes etc. Now that same coax network can be wireless. I have a internet connections at remote sites that I have contrologix processors running and produce and consume data across the internet from miles away. Today anything is possible with contrologix.
Amen brother! Or use hidden M-files to pass data to HMI's! Factorytalk is also a huge step foward from the old panelbuilder days! Still not as functional in the ME version as I would like to see but much better than it used to be. The are blurring the lines between the traditional HMI and SCADA applications though.
M Files? Nope...don't miss those either....
BTW...if your using the PV's....look into using the parameter files for tag replacement.
I have numerous screens that for the most part are just copies of other screens...but with different tags....using the parameter file you give a generic # and then the parameter file has the actual details....
And....you can copy the contents of a parameter file into notepad....make wholesale changes using search/replace and copy back into the parameter file. It's my new found love for saving time...
BTW...if your using the PV's....look into using the parameter files for tag replacement.
I have numerous screens that for the most part are just copies of other screens...but with different tags....using the parameter file you give a generic # and then the parameter file has the actual details....
And....you can copy the contents of a parameter file into notepad....make wholesale changes using search/replace and copy back into the parameter file. It's my new found love for saving time...
John
I use the parameter files for a lot of things, so many redundant things in PLC programming makes things much easier especially for HOA controls for motors, valves, pumps etc.
LOL, hey, come on now, this thread is supposed to be about Home Automation... Who cares if you use block transfers? And for data base expansion, I can afford a minute to go to program mode and define a larger integer,timer, counter, or whatever file if needed, not that I won't make it big enough in the first place...
If my scan time is 50 msec instead of 10 msec, does it matter in my home automation real time?
It's why even industrial plants can still use PLC-2s... Whatever fits the need, not higher tech just for the heck of it. Maybe a particular manufacturing line doesn't need integration with another line, i.e., stand alone fills the bill... Sometimes the utilities section of a plant doesn't require a DCS to run it...
I once worked a Modicon job where Ladder Doctor software was no longer being supported, and they really were going to possibly lose their program documentation. This affected literally hundreds of PLCs in many plants. The Taylor software they were converting to, would, of course, download the actual program, but naturally, no documentation was kept in the PLCs.
What to do? I found out what the Taylor documentation format was for the instruction descriptors, the rung/segment comments, etc. Then I wrote my first macro - in Lotus 1-2-3. Crude as it was, it converted the old Ladder Doctor exported documentation to the new format - and when imported to Taylor, gave them nice, documented programs! How old and out of date is Lotus 1-2-3 nowadays?? One could use Exel for the same task now, I'm sure.
And, yes, I'm as out of date as the equipment I've worked with over the years...
Now, somebody tell me how I'm going to automate & alarm my situation! By the way, one of the buildings is metal, so no wireless stuff will work in there...
The one thing I've seen so far is that it's more sensible to make an automation controller do alarm work than to try and make an alarm system do control work...
LOL, hey, come on now, this thread is supposed to be about Home Automation... Who cares if you use block transfers? And for data base expansion, I can afford a minute to go to program mode and define a larger integer,timer, counter, or whatever file if needed, not that I won't make it big enough in the first place...
If my scan time is 50 msec instead of 10 msec, does it matter in my home automation real time?
It's why even industrial plants can still use PLC-2s... Whatever fits the need, not higher tech just for the heck of it. Maybe a particular manufacturing line doesn't need integration with another line, i.e., stand alone fills the bill... Sometimes the utilities section of a plant doesn't require a DCS to run it...
I once worked a Modicon job where Ladder Doctor software was no longer being supported, and they really were going to possibly lose their program documentation. This affected literally hundreds of PLCs in many plants. The Taylor software they were converting to, would, of course, download the actual program, but naturally, no documentation was kept in the PLCs.
What to do? I found out what the Taylor documentation format was for the instruction descriptors, the rung/segment comments, etc. Then I wrote my first macro - in Lotus 1-2-3. Crude as it was, it converted the old Ladder Doctor exported documentation to the new format - and when imported to Taylor, gave them nice, documented programs! How old and out of date is Lotus 1-2-3 nowadays?? One could use Exel for the same task now, I'm sure.
And, yes, I'm as out of date as the equipment I've worked with over the years...
Now, somebody tell me how I'm going to automate & alarm my situation! By the way, one of the buildings is metal, so no wireless stuff will work in there...
The one thing I've seen so far is that it's more sensible to make an automation controller do alarm work than to try and make an alarm system do control work...
Glen
I agree with you on the fact that we got off the thread a bit. I'm an industrial guy and have been most of my career, actually I do most of my work anymore in the facilities end of things, Refrigeration, Steam Plant, Plant air etc... I'm not really up on the home automation stuff, never really interested me too much after working with the industrial equipment.
kaffine
Well-known member
I have some of the Insteon stuff and have had problems of it locking up on me and not working. I then have to go and throw the breaker to get it to reset so I can turn lights on and off again.
I never would have though about using an AB PLC for home automation. Probably more reliable. There are a few things I have thought of that would probably be easier to do with a PLC but so far have been able to find ways of doing it without one.
Just remember don't make it so complicated that the only one that can turn on a light is person that built the system.
I never would have though about using an AB PLC for home automation. Probably more reliable. There are a few things I have thought of that would probably be easier to do with a PLC but so far have been able to find ways of doing it without one.
Just remember don't make it so complicated that the only one that can turn on a light is person that built the system.
Chitown_hillbilly
Well-known member
You guys are way over my head... I feel like I just read an entire thread in a foreign language!
CJCar
Well-known member
I have about a half dozen of UPB light controllers. These are the SW-2 from http://www.webmtn.com/. These have been installed for just over 5 years and have had no problems.
With these I was able to automate my lighting with "scenes" without the need for an automation controller such as Home Seer mentioned above.
In my research before selecting UPB I realized there is (was) not one platform that covered everything. For example, UPB is great for lighting, but they don't have any product to control a simple relay, dry contacts for I/O, alarm interface, etc. I came to the conclusion that the deciding factor in what technology to use is dependent on what controller you are (or plan on) using.
For example, with the right software running on a PC acting as your controller, you can have a UPB button on a switch assigned to send a signal to the controller, and then have the controller activate an X10 device. The controller acts as a gateway to allow disparate devices/technologies to work together.
There are many software packages to choose from such as Home Seer already mentioned to open source such as MisterHouse.
With these I was able to automate my lighting with "scenes" without the need for an automation controller such as Home Seer mentioned above.
In my research before selecting UPB I realized there is (was) not one platform that covered everything. For example, UPB is great for lighting, but they don't have any product to control a simple relay, dry contacts for I/O, alarm interface, etc. I came to the conclusion that the deciding factor in what technology to use is dependent on what controller you are (or plan on) using.
For example, with the right software running on a PC acting as your controller, you can have a UPB button on a switch assigned to send a signal to the controller, and then have the controller activate an X10 device. The controller acts as a gateway to allow disparate devices/technologies to work together.
There are many software packages to choose from such as Home Seer already mentioned to open source such as MisterHouse.
This thread has gotten way off base. You got to be joking if you are going to automate your house with a PLC. Unless you have free hardware, free wall space and like to run wire it's way to impractical.
I do commercial building automation and that stuff is more suited than a PLC and still isn't that practical. I have 2 PLCs and about 6 building automation controllers in a lab in my basement and had images of grandeur of automating my new house. Right now all it does is monitor my house power consumption (got a free demo meter) and my septic tank. I will expand it some but it requires allot of wire pulling. I got most of the hardware for free but I still have about $400 out of pocket at cost for some misc sensors and a BACnet fully programmable thermostat. Pricing is a little high and most people don't need the power of fully programmable controllers nor have the know how to use them.
My girlfriend starts a new job next week and we have the need to hire a dog walker. I wanted to restrict the dog walker to only a certain time window on a specific day. I bought a Micasaverde Vera Lite controller and a Schlage Z wave deadbolt. I was able to get the deadbolt installed and had a code for the dog walker enabled for a 3 hr window and had it sending me an email and text message alert of when the dog walkers code was used in about 3hrs of work.
After I got it working I wanted to try a little more so I picked up 3 Zwave light switches at Lowes along with a water sensor. I was able to set it up so I can use my phone when I come home to open my front door and turn on my porch and living room light. After 5 minutes it will turn the lights back out and lock the door. This was all using the standard interface with no programming. After looking into it the system is capable of being programmed for custom sequences using code.
The price point is right and you can automate your existing switches and outlets by simply replacing the devices. You can also get Zwave stuff at Lowes as they are trying to push their Iris automation system.
After reading about it the Zwave goes about 100' line of sight. As you add devices they act as repeaters and you can have 4 hops between nodes. As you add devices you network size can grow. I don't see why it wouldn't work inside a metal building. I could see the signal being cut down if you have to go through metal interior walls
Here's the price point of the stuff I've bought to get an idea.
Veralite controller $179.99
Z wave deadbolt $166
Light switch $35
Water Detector $30
It's nice to be able to add on stuff cheaply a device at a time. My next project will be to add a motion detector and see if I can get my hallway lights to turn on when its dark and I walk down the hall way.
I do commercial building automation and that stuff is more suited than a PLC and still isn't that practical. I have 2 PLCs and about 6 building automation controllers in a lab in my basement and had images of grandeur of automating my new house. Right now all it does is monitor my house power consumption (got a free demo meter) and my septic tank. I will expand it some but it requires allot of wire pulling. I got most of the hardware for free but I still have about $400 out of pocket at cost for some misc sensors and a BACnet fully programmable thermostat. Pricing is a little high and most people don't need the power of fully programmable controllers nor have the know how to use them.
My girlfriend starts a new job next week and we have the need to hire a dog walker. I wanted to restrict the dog walker to only a certain time window on a specific day. I bought a Micasaverde Vera Lite controller and a Schlage Z wave deadbolt. I was able to get the deadbolt installed and had a code for the dog walker enabled for a 3 hr window and had it sending me an email and text message alert of when the dog walkers code was used in about 3hrs of work.
After I got it working I wanted to try a little more so I picked up 3 Zwave light switches at Lowes along with a water sensor. I was able to set it up so I can use my phone when I come home to open my front door and turn on my porch and living room light. After 5 minutes it will turn the lights back out and lock the door. This was all using the standard interface with no programming. After looking into it the system is capable of being programmed for custom sequences using code.
The price point is right and you can automate your existing switches and outlets by simply replacing the devices. You can also get Zwave stuff at Lowes as they are trying to push their Iris automation system.
After reading about it the Zwave goes about 100' line of sight. As you add devices they act as repeaters and you can have 4 hops between nodes. As you add devices you network size can grow. I don't see why it wouldn't work inside a metal building. I could see the signal being cut down if you have to go through metal interior walls
Here's the price point of the stuff I've bought to get an idea.
Veralite controller $179.99
Z wave deadbolt $166
Light switch $35
Water Detector $30
It's nice to be able to add on stuff cheaply a device at a time. My next project will be to add a motion detector and see if I can get my hallway lights to turn on when its dark and I walk down the hall way.
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Jim_No_Garage
Well-known member
I just retired a W98 laptop running a REALLY old version of Homeseer (1.31 I think).
I've been playing with X-10 since 1996. We used it primarily for lighting schedules, driving a number of X-10 modules. It worked OK but was susceptible to power line noise.
I upgraded to a number of PCS Brand wall switches that beat the feel of X-10 switches to death. The fact that PCS decided to step back from X-10 sort of irritated me - I loved their products.
Insteon has come into play since I had stabilized my system and I never could justify the expense of retrofitting things. I have two keypads with label tags that LOML never got the hang of.
Cheers
Jim
I've been playing with X-10 since 1996. We used it primarily for lighting schedules, driving a number of X-10 modules. It worked OK but was susceptible to power line noise.
I upgraded to a number of PCS Brand wall switches that beat the feel of X-10 switches to death. The fact that PCS decided to step back from X-10 sort of irritated me - I loved their products.
Insteon has come into play since I had stabilized my system and I never could justify the expense of retrofitting things. I have two keypads with label tags that LOML never got the hang of.
Cheers
Jim
chicken89
Well-known member
new to this idea, but really interested. I am not looking for anythign elaberate, but here is what I want to get
Thermostat
1 door lock
4 light switches
garage door opener if possible (2 once i get another opener)
i want to be able to use the automation from a cell phone. i also have an old laptop that i can dedicate if necessary
I read about z-wire and Lowe's iris. i read that z-wire is the technology. Is iris using that technology or is it propriety? the only product i have seen in person is the iris. would i be able to start a system with iris, then if i find other products cheaper, go with them and connect to iris?
Thermostat
1 door lock
4 light switches
garage door opener if possible (2 once i get another opener)
i want to be able to use the automation from a cell phone. i also have an old laptop that i can dedicate if necessary
I read about z-wire and Lowe's iris. i read that z-wire is the technology. Is iris using that technology or is it propriety? the only product i have seen in person is the iris. would i be able to start a system with iris, then if i find other products cheaper, go with them and connect to iris?
mellamoesrico
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2011
- Messages
- 54
To me it seems like the crux of the issue is whether you want hard-wired or wireless end devices in the system. If you can live with hardwired end devices, there are many ways to do this: PLC/HMI, PC-based with I/O expander boards, dedicated home automation controller (ie Crestron, AMX, Control4).
But if you want wireless end devices, then it gets trickier. Then you have to look at what wireless end devices are available for the applications you need. And hopefully find a common platform that will work with all of them, and is affordable as well.
My background is PLC-based industrial automation, where we use hard-wired end devices for reliability. The industry now has a lot of vendors offering remote web access to the HMI database. That provides instant access to the controller from anywhere, but its just an outer layer of interface with the existing hardwired control system.
This new generation of home automation and home security systems that use wireless end devices are all new to me. As a matter of fact, I bought a new wireless home security system before the holidays to replace our existing hardwired security system. But I still have installed it yet. The wireless revolution looks to be a real game changer soon.
But if you want wireless end devices, then it gets trickier. Then you have to look at what wireless end devices are available for the applications you need. And hopefully find a common platform that will work with all of them, and is affordable as well.
My background is PLC-based industrial automation, where we use hard-wired end devices for reliability. The industry now has a lot of vendors offering remote web access to the HMI database. That provides instant access to the controller from anywhere, but its just an outer layer of interface with the existing hardwired control system.
This new generation of home automation and home security systems that use wireless end devices are all new to me. As a matter of fact, I bought a new wireless home security system before the holidays to replace our existing hardwired security system. But I still have installed it yet. The wireless revolution looks to be a real game changer soon.
pgray007
Well-known member
I just wrapped up lighting and security automation in our house so I can talk with some intelligence about this. I'd be more than happy to wax poetic especially if someone can help me with roughing in plumbing 
.
If you really want to go crazy, visit cocoontech.com; those guys will blow your mind.
Broadly, there are 3 routes on the DIY automation market:
1) "Roll your own" where you're using various subsystems (lighting, security, audio, etc) and creating your own custom controller to communicate between them. At the extreme this is using things like Arduino or custom Linux scripts as the controller, and relays and custom wiring configurations on the hardware side. The less extreme end is buying a software package (Homeseer, Misterhouse, etc) and building out screens, etc yourself, and interfacing to standard lighting/security components.
2) Panel + Software. An automation "panel" handles security and most automation functions. Big guys here in the DIY space are Elk and HAI (now owned by Leviton). I've used both (currently on HAI) and they're both similar and well-regarded. In the case of HAI, you can get HAI branded lighting and security components that are tested together, and thus eliminate some of the headache, and have one vendor to point a finger at if something is wrong. Elk is more "roll your own". I've added software in the form of a program called Haiku that gives nice iPad/iPhone screens that the wife likes without any programming hassle on my part. I can open the garage door from an airplane (helpful if a vendor is coming), and win friends and influence people by turning on the Christmas tree from the phone.
Note that this route still isn't "plug and play," and if you're not comfortable opening firewall ports and doing some fairly rudimentary programming (i.e. IF DOOR_TO_SCARY_BASEMENT not secure THEN turn on unit LIGHT_SO_I_DONT_STUB_MY_TOE).
3) "Nextgen" stuff. Home automation has experienced a bit of a resurgence, so everyone from Staples to Lowes is selling "prepackaged" HA stuff. The good is most of it works out of the box, and is controllable from the web. The bad is that much of it is from startup-type companies, and tied to monthly service fees. This is a good way to get stated with minimal investment. I'd put items like the Nest thermostat in this category. Big bucks but works right out of the box with minimal effort.
.If you really want to go crazy, visit cocoontech.com; those guys will blow your mind.
Broadly, there are 3 routes on the DIY automation market:
1) "Roll your own" where you're using various subsystems (lighting, security, audio, etc) and creating your own custom controller to communicate between them. At the extreme this is using things like Arduino or custom Linux scripts as the controller, and relays and custom wiring configurations on the hardware side. The less extreme end is buying a software package (Homeseer, Misterhouse, etc) and building out screens, etc yourself, and interfacing to standard lighting/security components.
2) Panel + Software. An automation "panel" handles security and most automation functions. Big guys here in the DIY space are Elk and HAI (now owned by Leviton). I've used both (currently on HAI) and they're both similar and well-regarded. In the case of HAI, you can get HAI branded lighting and security components that are tested together, and thus eliminate some of the headache, and have one vendor to point a finger at if something is wrong. Elk is more "roll your own". I've added software in the form of a program called Haiku that gives nice iPad/iPhone screens that the wife likes without any programming hassle on my part. I can open the garage door from an airplane (helpful if a vendor is coming), and win friends and influence people by turning on the Christmas tree from the phone.
Note that this route still isn't "plug and play," and if you're not comfortable opening firewall ports and doing some fairly rudimentary programming (i.e. IF DOOR_TO_SCARY_BASEMENT not secure THEN turn on unit LIGHT_SO_I_DONT_STUB_MY_TOE).
3) "Nextgen" stuff. Home automation has experienced a bit of a resurgence, so everyone from Staples to Lowes is selling "prepackaged" HA stuff. The good is most of it works out of the box, and is controllable from the web. The bad is that much of it is from startup-type companies, and tied to monthly service fees. This is a good way to get stated with minimal investment. I'd put items like the Nest thermostat in this category. Big bucks but works right out of the box with minimal effort.
pgray007
Well-known member
Here's what I've done in our current house (started automation projects about a year ago):
I had a bad experience in my last house with Elk and other branded subsystems not talking together as well as they should. In our current house, I use an HAI panel, and HAI lighting (called HLC). HAI has been bought by Leviton. The panel serves as a standard, albeit fairly high-end alarm system, but also can perform automation functions. These range from reacting to an event to perform an action (like "when the sun sets, turn on the kitchen lights" or "When someone opens the front door, turn on the carriage lights," or even "When the fire alarm goes off in the detached, email my wife and I after calling in the cavalry"). The panel can be integrated with other modules (say and irrigation control module, weather station, various lighting/automation standards like Zwave, Zigbee, etc), and listen for events on all of them.
If you want to get fancy, you can connect a computer to the panel, and have that do even more advanced actions. I've seen guys use their computer to get a 5 day weather forecast, and modify their irrigation schedule. Or even do a "movie theater experience" where the computer downloads a few random trailers, dims the lights in the movie room for the "feature presentation," and closes the blinds. It's really up to your imagination/time/wallet.
I started with basic security and lighting, with iPhone/iPad integration. The HAI lighting stuff works over a powerline standard called UPB. X10 and some of the others are also powerline, which means they communicate over the electrical system of your house. The other alternatives with lighting are wireless (self-explanatory) and wired systems, where each switch requires a communication wire back to the controller. Wired is the most expensive and reliable, wireless generally least reliable and a bit more expensive than PLC. PLC and wireless are obviously the easiest to retrofit.
Basically wiring in a new automated switch is the same as a "dumb" switch, plus the need for a neutral wire. You then tell the panel about the existence of the switch, and you can do utterly useless things like turn on the Christmas tree from your phone, or more useful things like light up the house when you open the garage on a dark night. The panel also has outputs (basically a low voltage connection you can turn on and off), so via a relay I can open and close garage doors, or you could control your irrigation, automated deadbolts, motor to raise your pirate flag when home alone, etc.
As previously mentioned, you can tie this to a computer for advanced functionality, and to generate pretty screens that you can show on a TV, computer, or tablet. I went with software called Haiku that works on iDevices, with the intention of controlling everything from iPhones on or off our property, and putting a few dedicated (older/cheaper) iPads in rooms to serve as control panels. HAI and Haiku will also integrate with video cameras, so eventually when someone rings the doorbell, our phones will show the door, and allow a remote unlock, although that's phase 2.
I had a bad experience in my last house with Elk and other branded subsystems not talking together as well as they should. In our current house, I use an HAI panel, and HAI lighting (called HLC). HAI has been bought by Leviton. The panel serves as a standard, albeit fairly high-end alarm system, but also can perform automation functions. These range from reacting to an event to perform an action (like "when the sun sets, turn on the kitchen lights" or "When someone opens the front door, turn on the carriage lights," or even "When the fire alarm goes off in the detached, email my wife and I after calling in the cavalry"). The panel can be integrated with other modules (say and irrigation control module, weather station, various lighting/automation standards like Zwave, Zigbee, etc), and listen for events on all of them.
If you want to get fancy, you can connect a computer to the panel, and have that do even more advanced actions. I've seen guys use their computer to get a 5 day weather forecast, and modify their irrigation schedule. Or even do a "movie theater experience" where the computer downloads a few random trailers, dims the lights in the movie room for the "feature presentation," and closes the blinds. It's really up to your imagination/time/wallet.
I started with basic security and lighting, with iPhone/iPad integration. The HAI lighting stuff works over a powerline standard called UPB. X10 and some of the others are also powerline, which means they communicate over the electrical system of your house. The other alternatives with lighting are wireless (self-explanatory) and wired systems, where each switch requires a communication wire back to the controller. Wired is the most expensive and reliable, wireless generally least reliable and a bit more expensive than PLC. PLC and wireless are obviously the easiest to retrofit.
Basically wiring in a new automated switch is the same as a "dumb" switch, plus the need for a neutral wire. You then tell the panel about the existence of the switch, and you can do utterly useless things like turn on the Christmas tree from your phone, or more useful things like light up the house when you open the garage on a dark night. The panel also has outputs (basically a low voltage connection you can turn on and off), so via a relay I can open and close garage doors, or you could control your irrigation, automated deadbolts, motor to raise your pirate flag when home alone, etc.
As previously mentioned, you can tie this to a computer for advanced functionality, and to generate pretty screens that you can show on a TV, computer, or tablet. I went with software called Haiku that works on iDevices, with the intention of controlling everything from iPhones on or off our property, and putting a few dedicated (older/cheaper) iPads in rooms to serve as control panels. HAI and Haiku will also integrate with video cameras, so eventually when someone rings the doorbell, our phones will show the door, and allow a remote unlock, although that's phase 2.
pgray007
Well-known member
One final thought... It's tempting to skip the controller and go right to a computer, but I believe in including a controller for 2 reasons:
1) It's UL listed and basically "hardened" to serve as a "life safety" device (i.e. call the FD when the house is on fire). This is a higher standard than some free software or "neato box" from Lowes. If you're doing to do security, use a "real" panel!
2) For "critical" functions I want the more robust device providing basic control. Nothing will piss your housemates off more than lights that randomly come on/off, or stop working when your homebrew box needs a windows update. The fancy/non-critical stuff I like on a computer-based system, but I see it as an augment to the panel rather than a replacement.
1) It's UL listed and basically "hardened" to serve as a "life safety" device (i.e. call the FD when the house is on fire). This is a higher standard than some free software or "neato box" from Lowes. If you're doing to do security, use a "real" panel!
2) For "critical" functions I want the more robust device providing basic control. Nothing will piss your housemates off more than lights that randomly come on/off, or stop working when your homebrew box needs a windows update. The fancy/non-critical stuff I like on a computer-based system, but I see it as an augment to the panel rather than a replacement.
chicken89
Well-known member
WOW, this is a little more in depth to what i am looking for.
i'm basically wanting something basic. open garage door and unlock door when i get in the area so it is ready when i get home. light switches: one for detached garage so there is a light on when i get there (and the wife can signal i've been in there too long), one for house so there is something on when i unlock door, and one for for outside lights.
don't need an alarm panel, motion sensors (outdoor pets), don't see a need for cameras as of yet
i'm basically wanting something basic. open garage door and unlock door when i get in the area so it is ready when i get home. light switches: one for detached garage so there is a light on when i get there (and the wife can signal i've been in there too long), one for house so there is something on when i unlock door, and one for for outside lights.
don't need an alarm panel, motion sensors (outdoor pets), don't see a need for cameras as of yet
paranoid56
Well-known member
Look at the z wave stuff, its super DIY and user friendly.
chicken89
Well-known member
Z-wave, being the technology... what brands use this? any that are not compatable with it?
pgray007
Well-known member
Check out the ZWave-enabled "Mi Casa Verde" (amazon link: http://amzn.to/1djkPiA) as that should allow you fairly robust control without going to a full automation panel, for relatively short money.
Pretty much 90% of the consumer wireless HA stuff is Z-wave these days and you'll find support from all the major vendors (the "big 3" lock companies like Yale, Schlage, Kwikset, switches from Leviton, etc). Carefully read product descriptions since many companies produce a visually similar lock or lightswitch that supports different standards. You might think you're saving a few bucks, then later realize you bought UPB when you wanted ZWave.
The other competing wireless standard (more $ and more oriented towards commercial) is Zigbee, but the product descriptions should note the underlying technology. The Z-wave stuff is "mostly" interoperable, but like any emerging standard various vendors have different levels of compliance.
Check out automatedoutlet.com for an automation-specific retailer, but I find Amazon has most of the same stuff these days with better prices. They occasionally run 20% off promos on Leviton stuff, which really adds up if you're buying a dozen $60 automated light switches.
Do realize that automation ain't cheap. You're average automated light switch will run $40 on the low end to $80+, and once you start getting into controllers, automated HVAC, etc. it gets pricey. Also realize all this stuff is still new and still a bit flakey. Even if you want to "just open a door and turn a light on" you're going to be dealing with multiple vendors, some light programming, and it's not going to work the first time you turn it all on. Amazon reviews are your friend here to make sure stuff will work as you expect and highlight the caveats.
Pretty much 90% of the consumer wireless HA stuff is Z-wave these days and you'll find support from all the major vendors (the "big 3" lock companies like Yale, Schlage, Kwikset, switches from Leviton, etc). Carefully read product descriptions since many companies produce a visually similar lock or lightswitch that supports different standards. You might think you're saving a few bucks, then later realize you bought UPB when you wanted ZWave.
The other competing wireless standard (more $ and more oriented towards commercial) is Zigbee, but the product descriptions should note the underlying technology. The Z-wave stuff is "mostly" interoperable, but like any emerging standard various vendors have different levels of compliance.
Check out automatedoutlet.com for an automation-specific retailer, but I find Amazon has most of the same stuff these days with better prices. They occasionally run 20% off promos on Leviton stuff, which really adds up if you're buying a dozen $60 automated light switches.
Do realize that automation ain't cheap. You're average automated light switch will run $40 on the low end to $80+, and once you start getting into controllers, automated HVAC, etc. it gets pricey. Also realize all this stuff is still new and still a bit flakey. Even if you want to "just open a door and turn a light on" you're going to be dealing with multiple vendors, some light programming, and it's not going to work the first time you turn it all on. Amazon reviews are your friend here to make sure stuff will work as you expect and highlight the caveats.
jomobco
Well-known member
Update: I bit the bullet and switched from the Homeseer to the Revolv. Stupid simple to set up with multiple radios. Works great on my iPhone and I didn't have to teach my wife to use it. They're still building out the software and they need to add a few things like complex actions, etc but they said it's in the plans. I can now turn off my TV from 100 miles away from my iPhone And the hardware is small and super stable.
And the hardware is small and super stable.suedely
Member
Update: I bit the bullet and switched from the Homeseer to the Revolv. Stupid simple to set up with multiple radios. Works great on my iPhone and I didn't have to teach my wife to use it. They're still building out the software and they need to add a few things like complex actions, etc but they said it's in the plans. I can now turn off my TV from 100 miles away from my iPhone
Please keep us up to date on how you like the Revolv! Are you by chance connecting it to an insteon system? Would love to hear how well that works also.
Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
jomobco
Well-known member
IIRC I'm pretty much all Z-wave. I love the Revolv iPhone interface. I can't wait for them to continue to build this friendly platform. It was stupid simple to get running. Plug and play. Tie it into your network and viola. Then add your devices through your iPhone. I've got about 30 devices running on it currently and it's been rock steady.
