Home-Brewed Semi-Deep Sockets...?

[jride200]

Would it be realistic to take my Craftsman deep sockets (they've been demoted to my b-squad) to a machine shop, and have them grind them down to semi-deep height? I ask because CM no longer makes them, and because I worked briefly in a machine shop, and used a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck... This is where I got the idea.

I'm imagining a chuck full of CM sockets, all stood on end. Perhaps others on here would also be interested, and the setup cost could be shared. You could fit a BUNCH of sockets on even a small magnetic chuck. The CM sockets have an extra deep broach, so this is not an issue... The only issue might be the sharp edges that a surface grinder would leave, and the [possible] resulting difficulty getting it onto nuts and bolts.

Appreciate input, knowledge of the forum. Thanks in advance.

 

[Gtamazing]

It would take a real long time to grind them down on a surface grinder.

 

[Ign]

If you wanna be there for fifteen years. Don't usually take more than .002 per pass on a surface grinder. Larger grinders could do more, but even if you try .005 per pass you're there forever.

I really think a lathe could part them.

If they were impact sockets I'd say use a bandsaw as impacts are generally not hardened.

 

[jride200]

So, maybe some kind of a rough cut first, followed by finishing on a grinder... Don't know what you'd use for the rough cut, maybe a water jet??

 

[Monte]

angle grinder + cutting disc

 

[Rickster]

Yup, I used an angle grinder with cut-off disc on a few older sockets to cut them down mid-length to fill in a few spots where I couldn't find the proper mid-length's yet.

 

[Ign]

Alright, I just did this. Chucked up a Cman 3/8" drive 14mm socket, part #44431

parted w carbide insert .089 wide in a 15" Leblond.

Parted like butter.

Then ran a 60 degree 3/4" c-sink in the new end to de-burr.

edit: based upon how easily it cut it probably wouldn't hurt a bandsaw blade

 

[MattT]

I really think a lathe could part them.

Haven't tried parting hand sockets but have turned them down with HSS bits no problem. Hand tools ain't near as hard as some folks think they are.

Only issue I can see with parting the sockets is when you break thru' the hex corners and the cut goes intermittent.

 

[airbuff101]

A conical stone would easily bevel the edges afterwards with drill press or lathe.
Rob

 

[mrholeshot]

Alright, I just did this. Chucked up a Cman 3/8" drive 14mm socket, part #44431

parted w carbide insert .089 wide in a 15" Leblond.

Parted like butter.

Then ran a 60 degree 3/4" c-sink in the new end to de-burr.

edit: based upon how easily it cut it probably wouldn't hurt a bandsaw blade

very nice!!!

 

[warmpancakes]

do they still have a warranty?

 

[Kirbot]

There's no way it would be cost effective to have a machine shop do the work.
And there's no way any machinist would do it with a surface grinder.

They would almost certainly do it with a lathe as mentioned above, or maybe even a mill, but it would take a lot of time, and they would charge a fortune.

I would be really surprised if you could get a machine shop to do it for less than the cost of a set of Snap-On semi-deep sockets.

However, you could do the work yourself with an angle grinder, and a file without to much trouble.
And after a little practice, you could make them look just fine.

 

[hofferwood]

Haven't tried parting hand sockets but have turned them down with HSS bits no problem. Hand tools ain't near as hard as some folks think they are.

Only issue I can see with parting the sockets is when you break thru' the hex corners and the cut goes intermittent.

Carbide don't like intermittent cuts, tend to chchchippp.
Doin' a few, great, but I wouldn't want to turn a passel of em.
chuck

 

[Case IH]

Would a band saw work?

 

[Ritter4.0]

The easiest way I can think to do it would be to use an angle grinder like others said. Then chuck a 3/8" adapter into a drill, and spin it on a grinding wheel. Or spin it on a file.

That is if you don't have a decent bandsaw, which would only require de-burring afterward.

 

[toolmaker1]

v block on surface grinder chuck with a cutoff wheel first, just downfeed right through. When done just stand them all up, block them in and dust the top. After all that deburr with a chamfering bit. I also think it would be more cost effective to buy them off the truck and when all said and done the resale would be much better.

 

[Zebu Fellenz]

Funny timing to see this topic come up. A few hours ago I needed a super shallow 1/4 drive 1/2" socket so I stuck one on the lathe and cut it with a HSS parting tool, it cut it just fine and after a quick de-burr it worked fine.

 

[chewy7]

use a chop saw

 

[Ign]

They would almost certainly do it with a lathe as mentioned above, or maybe even a mill, but it would take a lot of time, and they would charge a fortune.

I would be really surprised if you could get a machine shop to do it for less than the cost of a set of Snap-On semi-deep sockets.

I dunno why. I didn't use my power feed 'cause I wanted to "feel" the material but now that I know it'd be a cake walk.

Aren't many of the Cman deeps the same length? I think so. If so set a stop at the rear of a 3 jaw, and you're probably looking at well under 15 seconds a pc including loading/unloading.

If the OP has a countersink he can do that operation w a hand drill (which is how I did it 'cause for the sample it was faster than removing my live center and putting a chuck in my tailstock).

What does a set of Snappy semi's go for?

To the OP: how many do you need to do? If you can't find anyone local and you wanna ship 'em PM me.

 

[hofferwood]

Another reason to post location in the profile.
Could live around the block!
Chuck

 

[Coach James]

Any issue with heat affecting the strength of the socket when you cut them?

Coach

 

[Gregg33]

Unless you had your own lathe and lots of time I don't really see the point. Obviously if you are in a bind, by all means hack it off with w.e you have handy, but to do a whole set it'd probably be easier (and cheaper) to buy a used Snap On set or if you only need one or 2 sizes just buy the sockets you need individually.

 

[Ign]

Any issue with heat affecting the strength of the socket when you cut them?

Coach

Even tho they seemed soft presumably they're heat treated to some degree. This is why abrasive wouldn't be my first choice unless it was a one-time use kinda thing. If you're wanting a set that's gonna last as long as before they were modified, I'd look for some method that involves minimal heat.

All the talk of interrupted cuts and carbide is BS; you're either not using the right technique or you're not using the right grade of carbide. There are considerable differences between toughness and hardness and all the major carbide manufacturers can tell you what you need for ANY application.

 

[Bo Heck]

If youre really on a budget:

Vice plus hacksaw would work. The lathe is the best option and is what I would do, but some don't have access to that.

 

[jride200]

Thanks to everyone who has responded to my question... I hadn't even considered cutting these down on a lathe. I suppose I just thought they'd be too hard. But, it appears as if this would be the best option. Special thanks to "Ign" for his insight.

One more thing about this, which I just realized today while taking a better look at my CM sockets. While the CM sockets have an especially deep broach, the depth of the broach varies widely from socket to socket, and some might not be deep enough to turn them into intermediate length sockets. So, if I wanted to make a whole set of semi-deeps, as I'd originally planned... I might have to pilfer through pawn shop CM sockets to find those with deep enough broaching, which if kind of a PITA.

If I end up following though with this (or jobbing the task out to Ign), I'll be sure to post some pics of the end product.