Home built Garage Cabinets

[Mordi]

I have about 18 ft or so along the back wall of my garage that I would like to use for enclosed storage and a workbench area. I am thinking about cabinets that are approx. 72 inches in height, 16 inches deep and have sliding doors. (Need the sliding doors sue to space limitations).

Has anyone built anything like this? Any pics?

Thanks,
Mordi

 

[saumon]

You could try something similar to this:

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17772/

 

[Jude20VT]

Another option may be to build a closet? It will give you floor to ceiling storage with unlimited set-up options. In mine, I have one door with floor to ceiling shelves. The other two doors are peg board and deep enough to store my wheel barrow.

 

[Mr.N]

(Need the sliding doors sue to space limitations).

My dad has the sliding doors, you add a little weight and the doors don't work right. I'm not a fan of them, and will never build with them.

Now, if you could find a track where the lower just hung free...

 

[ddawg16]

I can see where sliding doors are a good solution.....in the right conditions...

But it wouldn't work in my garage....I do a lot of woodworking...the sawdust would setting in the track and I would end up spending way too much time keeping it clean.

 

[Torque1st]

Have you considered used kitchen cabinets or other cabinets removed from service in commercial buildings, apartments, labs, etc? Sometimes they can be had cheap.

 

[Tech Guy]

I called a guy that did kitchen cabinets for a living. Had some old ones he removed from a job. Slapped new doors on for me and helped me mount them. $200.00 total for 8 cabinets wall mounted.

 

[Mattlt]

Walk through the hardware aisle and look at some of the pulleys they have. These could be mounted to the top and/or bottom of the doors. Then have them run on an angle iron track.

 

[Mordi]

Another option may be to build a closet? It will give you floor to ceiling storage with unlimited set-up options. In mine, I have one door with floor to ceiling shelves. The other two doors are peg board and deep enough to store my wheel barrow.

That is what I am talking about!

What size are those doors and what type of hardware do you have those doors on? Are there rollers on tracks for the top and bottom? From the pic it looks like you have three tracks - is that so you can push the doors all the way to one side or the other to gain access inside?

This looks very similiar to what I was planning Any downside with this setup?

Thanks,
Mordi

 

[Jude20VT]

What size are those doors and what type of hardware do you have those doors on? Are there rollers on tracks for the top and bottom? From the pic it looks like you have three tracks - is that so you can push the doors all the way to one side or the other to gain access inside?

The 36"W x 9'T doors were special ordered from Lowes for only $30ea. They are mounted using basic interior closet accessories like in most bedrooms.

The left door is on it's own 6' track to only access the shelves. The shelves (3@23", 1@10" deep) are supported by a freestanding wall within the closet. The left/center doors are supported at the center floor by a double "U" bracket, again basic interior closet parts.

The center/right doors are on a separate 9' track to allow them to slide behind the left door for complete access to the bulk/peg board storage.

The right door is supported at the floor by a "L" bracket to prevent from pushing inward while shut. Once the right door is opened, it swings freely and must be guided behind the others. I chose not to go with a floor track because it may get crushed by the jack, etc.

Total cost was <$400. As you can see in the pics, all my junk is behind closed doors (needs to be organized better).

 

[Mordi]

The 36"W x 9'T doors were special ordered from Lowes for only $30ea. They are mounted using basic interior closet accessories like in most bedrooms.

The left door is on it's own 6' track to only access the shelves. The shelves (3@23", 1@10" deep) are supported by a freestanding wall within the closet. The left/center doors are supported at the center floor by a double "U" bracket, again basic interior closet parts.

The center/right doors are on a separate 9' track to allow them to slide behind the left door for complete access to the bulk/peg board storage.

The right door is supported at the floor by a "L" bracket to prevent from pushing inward while shut. Once the right door is opened, it swings freely and must be guided behind the others. I chose not to go with a floor track because it may get crushed by the jack, etc.

Total cost was <$400. As you can see in the pics, all my junk is behind closed doors (needs to be organized better).

Excellent - Exactly the kind of setup I was thinking about Thanks so much for the pics and the explanation of the hardware - that really helps me with my planning. Is there a stop at the end of the 6 ft track for the left door?

Mordi

 

[Jude20VT]

Is there a stop at the end of the 6 ft track for the left door?

Yep, the left door has a stop at the end of the 6' track.

There are also stops on the back of the left/center doors; this keeps the center/right door slightly staggered when fully opened. Before I added these to the back of the doors, the center/right door would push fully behind the left door making it harder to dig them out to shut.

 

[Mordi]

Yep, the left door has a stop at the end of the 6' track.

There are also stops on the back of the left/center doors; this keeps the center/right door slightly staggered when fully opened. Before I added these to the back of the doors, the center/right door would push fully behind the left door making it harder to dig them out to shut.

I was thinking of using plastic rollers on the bottoms of the doors - Any issues with that approach?

Mordi

 

[Jude20VT]

I was thinking of using plastic rollers on the bottoms of the doors - Any issues with that approach?

I did not use a lower track, thinking it would get crushed in the garage. I have no issues with only using a top track.

 

[hammlm]

I built cabinets with doors on them. I liked the idea of hopefully being a bit more dust-proof, and I wanted to keep some locakble so that as my kids get older I can keep stuff out of thier mitts.

I used some cheap "cabinet grade" plywood from HD. I haven't seen it there in a while, but it is some far-eastern birch type of plywood. I am noticing some (not much) delamination of the top veneer on some rip lines, but I think I paid about $25 a sheet.

It took a while, but I am so happy with the result. I have just about everything in the cabinets now. If I get a free day sometime soon, I'm gonna pull everything out, and reorganize, and I think I can get the rest in.

I keep small benchtop machines (belt/disc sander, spindle sanders, routertables, etc) stowed away, all my "construction" hand tools, clamps. I made all of them with adjustable shelves so I can change things up as I need to. I also put electric in a couple. One is my small power tool storage area, and I have 4 battery chargers in there.

I probably have some rudimentary plans somewhere. I think I have about $170 in hardware (pulls, hinges, shelf supports) and I forget how much playwood. I want to say I have between 15-20 sheets of plywood in the cabinets. so, that would be another $400. and, it was a fun project, too.

-hammlm

 

[Mattlt]

I built cabinets with doors on them. I liked the idea of hopefully being a bit more dust-proof, and I wanted to keep some locakble so that as my kids get older I can keep stuff out of thier mitts.

I used some cheap "cabinet grade" plywood from HD. I haven't seen it there in a while, but it is some far-eastern birch type of plywood. I am noticing some (not much) delamination of the top veneer on some rip lines, but I think I paid about $25 a sheet.

It took a while, but I am so happy with the result. I have just about everything in the cabinets now. If I get a free day sometime soon, I'm gonna pull everything out, and reorganize, and I think I can get the rest in.

I keep small benchtop machines (belt/disc sander, spindle sanders, routertables, etc) stowed away, all my "construction" hand tools, clamps. I made all of them with adjustable shelves so I can change things up as I need to. I also put electric in a couple. One is my small power tool storage area, and I have 4 battery chargers in there.

I probably have some rudimentary plans somewhere. I think I have about $170 in hardware (pulls, hinges, shelf supports) and I forget how much playwood. I want to say I have between 15-20 sheets of plywood in the cabinets. so, that would be another $400. and, it was a fun project, too.

-hammlm

Holy cow!!! These are beautiful! I especially like the charging station for cordless tools.

Could you post a pic of the details of the face frames / doors? I'm curious how you did this. Did you use a plywood face frame or a solid wood frame? And how did you fasten things together?

 

[hammlm]

Thanks for the compliment. They are not of the quality you would put in the kitchen, but they work well in the shop.

so, I built them in "units" of approx. 8-running feet. They are 3/4" tops, bottoms and sides. A unit might be made up of two 35" sections and one 23" section. There is a fixed (non-adjustable) mid-section that seperates the uppers from the lowers (except in the full length sections).

Simple joinery, rabbets at the top and bottom and dado's for the middle-section seperator. I glued and screwed with regular black-screws (coarse thread drywall screws). The backs of each section is rabbeted 1/4" luan plywood. That helped me get things squared up before I stood them up.

I built a little 4" high support box on the floor out of my scrap pieces of plywood and made that a little smaller than the boxes to create a toe-kick.

So, the face frames are pine. Once I had the cabinets up, square, level and secured, I just glued and finish-nailed pine onto the plywood top, bottoms and uprights.

It's far from elegant, but it works. A little bit of warping in some of the cabinet doors, but not too bad. There is only one that is warped enough that one friction-catch doesn't hold it shut. I'll just put a lock on that one.

I can try to get some more pictures of the face frames.

Glad you like them. I am very pleased with how they turned out. It was a lot of work, and a s-load of sawdust, but that's the kind of work I enjoy.

 

[buening]

I too would enjoy more pics of the cabinets! As soon as I finish the drywall in the garage, I will be building cabinets out of 3/4" MDF that I will be painting with an HVLP gun to seal them. They will be extremely heavy, but the cost of cabinet grade plywood is too high here and the local box stores have **** for plywood. The MDF is about $25 a sheet as well.

Are your shelves fixed or adjustable? This is one thing I'm not sure what to do. I can dado slots in the side panels and put in fixed shelves and it would be very rigid. I'm worried that drilling holes for those shelf supports may end up being a bit weak. I guess my worries come from too many cheap entertainment centers and bookshelves that collapse.

 

[hammlm]

I'll work on some pictures.

My shelves are adjustable. I have a two bench-top sanders sitting on a 30" shelf, and there's no issue. Might be more of a problem with MDF than with plywood, but I would think if you drilled the right sized hole, it would be plenty strong.

I made up a drilling template that I would put up on the inside of the cabinet
and it made for very consistent hole patterns throughout the cabinets.

I'll see what all I have left from that project. It was one that just sort of happened and didn't have a lot of planning / obsessing over like most of my projects. So, I guess I'm lucky that they turned out pretty nice.

 

[Mordi]

I'll work on some pictures.

My shelves are adjustable. I have a two bench-top sanders sitting on a 30" shelf, and there's no issue. Might be more of a problem with MDF than with plywood, but I would think if you drilled the right sized hole, it would be plenty strong.

I made up a drilling template that I would put up on the inside of the cabinet
and it made for very consistent hole patterns throughout the cabinets.

I'll see what all I have left from that project. It was one that just sort of happened and didn't have a lot of planning / obsessing over like most of my projects. So, I guess I'm lucky that they turned out pretty nice.

Hammlm,

Those are really some great looking cabinets you built - nice job

I think we all are anxious to see more pics - especially some shots that show how you did the interior shelves -i.e. are there pegs or brackets that support the shelves, the dimensions of shelves, etc. Due to space limitations, I have to use sliding doors, otherwise, I would duplicate your setup, as I love the look you created. Nicely done sir

 

[sharkytm]

I too would enjoy more pics of the cabinets! As soon as I finish the drywall in the garage, I will be building cabinets out of 3/4" MDF that I will be painting with an HVLP gun to seal them. They will be extremely heavy, but the cost of cabinet grade plywood is too high here and the local box stores have **** for plywood. The MDF is about $25 a sheet as well.

Are your shelves fixed or adjustable? This is one thing I'm not sure what to do. I can dado slots in the side panels and put in fixed shelves and it would be very rigid. I'm worried that drilling holes for those shelf supports may end up being a bit weak. I guess my worries come from too many cheap entertainment centers and bookshelves that collapse.

I'd avoid MDF. It just isn't made to handle loads like plywood is. I've never seen an MDF shelf that held up weight long term without warping. Its also extremely heavy, and even if you paint it, if you ever get a spill, it'll swell and never be flat again.

You should be able to get plywood for a reasonable cost. You might want to get single-sided plywood, and use that for the tops, sides, and doors. Just put the faced side out, and be done with it. Paint will cover up the ugliness on the inside.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I'm no cabinet making expert, but I have worked as an engineer for a company that makes about 200 high end kitchen cabinets a day. You did a great job on those cabinets. 3/4" tops and bottoms are a high end feature. Usually 1/2". Properly drilled shelf holes pose no strength problems. Very well done.
The only thing that ever concerns me with kitchen type cabinets in the garage is how they are mounted. Most have very thin backs with a couple 1/2" thick strips on the back. You load a cabinet heavy in the garage, and those can be a hazzard. It doesn't look like you have any risks of that with yours. Great storage and a lot of it!

 

[hammlm]

I took a couple of pics. I didn't see your post until later, but I used 5/16" shelf supoprt pegs. http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-41893/Detail is where you can see a pic of what I used.

I shot a couple of pictures. Some of my doors are "opposing" swing, some are hinged the same as the ones next to them. Has to do with where I park, how big the doors are, etc. I also showed the basic hinges I used. Can't remember the part# but I got them from Rockler, I think. Maybe it was Woodworker's World. Took one to show the adjustability/flexibility of the shelves. I also enclosed one of my central vac outlets in a cabinet where I also hang extension cords. I need to reorganize, but you can get the idea.

They are not finished yet. I can't decide if I'm going to paint or poly. I have 1/2 of my garage done in two tone grey with a dividing stripe (blue), I just haven't been able to bring myself to paint over my match-booked doors

More questions? I'll try to answer.

 

[Mordi]

Great - more pics

Are those shelves 1/2 or 3/4 " ?

Looks like the wood is unfinished - I thought I read some where that if you seal the wood, it is less likely to warp

The back of my cabinets will drywall. Any need to put a backing to the cabinet or can the drywall server as a backing

Are there any close up pics of the hole pattern for the shelves - how far apart is the spacing between the holes?

I love the look

Thanks,
Mordi

 

[buening]

I'd avoid MDF. It just isn't made to handle loads like plywood is. I've never seen an MDF shelf that held up weight long term without warping. Its also extremely heavy, and even if you paint it, if you ever get a spill, it'll swell and never be flat again.

You should be able to get plywood for a reasonable cost. You might want to get single-sided plywood, and use that for the tops, sides, and doors. Just put the faced side out, and be done with it. Paint will cover up the ugliness on the inside.

I had been wishy-washy on MDF vs plywood. I like that MDF is smooth on both sides, so the interior of the cabinets can be as nice as the exterior (painting both sides). Based on my research, plywood is more susceptible to swelling/water damage and will also delaminate. One thing I failed to mention is that I would be using hardwood boards for the shelves. The boxes and doors will be MDF. Most recommend laminating and edge-banding the MDF, but I cannot find anyone that sells laminate that is not for a countertop.

Here is a nice website that has a ton of info on cabinet making, and the particular link is in regards to MDF vs Plywood: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/MDF_Versus_Plywood_for_Cabinets.html

 

[buening]

Great - more pics


The back of my cabinets will drywall. Any need to put a backing to the cabinet or can the drywall server as a backing

As far as I know, the strength of the cabinet comes from the backing. It keeps the cabinet from wanting to collapse or fold.

 

[beelsr]

nice job!

I don't know if you will want to because you used nice ply but if you paint the faces gloss white, you'll get a lot more reflected light bouncing around. and they'll be easier to (keep) clean.

just a thought....

 

[dan_evv]

Check out this link, it would work great if you already had some metal shelving units.
http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/pdf/wb304-garageshelves.pdf

it is from Workbench Magazine

dan

 

[ddrewyor]

Rustoleum makes a paint that turns any flat surface into a dry erase board. Bright white and you can mark down measurements, phone numbers, wrench sizes for your oil drain plugs, etc... Very handy. I used it in my old garage on my cabinet doors. They also make a chalkboard paint that comes in a tintable base. I used it for my kids easel, works good also. Nice woodwork by the way!

dave
________
New Mexico Medical Marijuana Dispensary

 

[Kevin54]

Most recommend laminating and edge-banding the MDF, but I cannot find anyone that sells laminate that is not for a countertop.

Ask for wood edging wherever you get your wood at. It comes in a roll and is a thin veneer. It will be about 3/4" wide x ? long and will be rolled up in a plastic bag. Some of it you have to glue on, some of it comes with a glue on the back that you have to iron on. I know Lowes carries it as I have seen it, but can't think which aisle it is in. Most box stores will have it. Even some of the Craft stores will carry it. At Lowes you may want to look where they sell the hardwoods, or look around where they sell the glued up end panels. Just a quick search for "wood edge banding" turned up this http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_edge_banding_wood_tape.html
http://edgeitedgebanding.com/
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/edgebanding-guide.htm
http://www.band-itproducts.com/


Not expensive at all for what it is. And with MDF and plywood especially, you want the edges seal to prevent warping and swelling. Even a good coat of paint does wonders.

 

[buening]

I found veneer edgebanding at the local box stores, but I wasn't planning on going with a wood look. It's really the laminate to cover the MDF that has been the problem sourcing. I'm sure once I found it I'd change my mind. I'm sure a sheet of laminate would be more than the wood itself

 

[Dragster Racer]

Nothing wrong structrually with MDF for the cabinets other than the weight. It holds up well as long as it is sealed with something..anything.
It doesn't work well for shelves, but you used plywood for those.
You could go two tone with a paint for the mdf and even just a clear or stain for everything else. Again, well done.

 

[Buckled]

What kind of hinges did you use? Are they considered full overlay? Where did you get them?

 

[hammlm]

Are those shelves 1/2 or 3/4 " ?

Looks like the wood is unfinished - I thought I read some where that if you seal the wood, it is less likely to warp

The back of my cabinets will drywall. Any need to put a backing to the cabinet or can the drywall server as a backing

Are there any close up pics of the hole pattern for the shelves - how far apart is the spacing between the holes?

1 - It's all 3/4" ply. 3/4 should be in quotes, because it's really more like 21/32 so when you cut your dados, make sure you test fit a piece --- if you just set up for 3/4, you'll end up with way more slop than you want.

2 - It's all unfinished. I didn't have the room, or more to the point, the motivation to pre-finish 15 or 20 sheets of plywood. I need to get around to finishing it, but I won't finish the insides. That's too much for me.

3 - I would DEFINITELY recommend a backer. I had painted plywood behind, too. The backer gives you an opportunity to (1) add some rigidity, especially if you rabbet it into the "unit" (this meant in my case that the middle "fixed" shelf had to be 1/4" less wide than the sides, tops and bottoms, .... and, (2) as long as you cut your backer square, it ensures --almost guarantees you'll have a square cabinet / unit to plumb and level.

4 - No close ups right now. Will work on that, if you can be patient. Tonight involved a glass-like iced-over driveway. I slid over 30ft towards my garage completely out of control at 8pm. Only like 3 MPH, but my anti-locks were just laughing and giving me the finger. Good news is that I stopped sideways before I hit the garage, had a buddy come down and rescue me, take me to get salt and I put 160# of salt down in order to be able to (1) get the car in the garage, and (2) make sure I can make a timely and graceful exit in the morning. Hole spacing is probably like 6". I didn't see the need for "hyper" adjustability --- I'll get some details.

Glad I sparked a little interest. Will be more than happy to share any info on this build.

 

[christopherbford]

yep, its all finish and material features are good for...
so this piece features a wide open space for your television with a unique base offers mirrored symmetrical cabinetry and an exposed shelving area for your home electronics. With two solid glass shelving towers that offer moderate storage space you can see through 360 degrees, this elegant piece provides a “barely there” appearance.

 

[jake26]

This GJ member built soffits around the perimeter of his garage with sliding doors and can lighting. It looks awsome.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45022

 

[christopherbford]

I'm no cabinet making expert, but I have worked as an engineer for a company that makes about 200 high end kitchen cabinets a day. You did a great job on those cabinets. 3/4" tops and bottoms are a high end feature. Usually 1/2". Properly drilled shelf holes pose no strength problems. Very well done.
The only thing that ever concerns me with kitchen type cabinets in the garage is how they are mounted. Most have very thin backs with a couple 1/2" thick strips on the back. You load a cabinet heavy in the garage, and those can be a hazzard. It doesn't look like you have any risks of that with yours. Great storage and a lot of it!

ya...thats nice its help me lot...i made new cabinets this types...! thank you...

 

[demondriven]

I have always made my own cabinets for my shops. I almost always mount a board under the wall cabinets it makes installation easier and I assume eases the loading on the cabinet. just my 2 cents.

 

[csp]

I was pricing plywood yesterday and a sheet of ACX 3/4" was $40!

A sheet of 3/4" birch was only $5 more. I couldn't believe it.

You can get 3/4" 'plywood' rabbeting router bits that cut the correct size rabbet rather than a true 3/4".