home construction questions

[carterbeauford]

Building a new home. Stressed out. Trying to make sure everything is done right. House is framed and the bumpout for the fireplace is different than the plans, I wanted a shed roof and they framed a gable roof which looks terrible. builder said he did it that way because it will melt the siding. The fireplace vents out the back and I don't understand what difference the roof makes. Said he could change it if I sign a waiver saying he's not responsible for the siding melting.

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't get the "siding melting thing" sounds like an attempt to scare you off of him making the change

 

[Boomer343]

Now that is funny ..... tell him to build it to plan and to stick the waiver.

 

[carterbeauford]

Same guy also tried to talk me out of 2x6 walls, said he could insulate 2x4s to the equivalent of 2x6s.

Carpenters knew what they were doing but I'm not sure he gave them page 3 of the plan.

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

Same guy also tried to talk me out of 2x6 walls, said he could insulate 2x4s to the equivalent of 2x6s.

Carpenters knew what they were doing but I'm not sure he gave them page 3 of the plan.

Technically what he is saying about insulating a 2 x 4 wall to the equivalent of 2 x 6 is partially true if you use close cell spray foam in a 2 x 4 wall as compared to fiberglass batts in a 2 x 6 wall.... so it’s an apples to oranges comparison....I don’t know why he would talk you out of 2x6s because upgrading to a 2 x 6 wall instead of a 2 x 4 sounds like an upgraded sell to me which would be more profit for him


What he is saying about melting the siding is kind of funny because why would it be that way in the plans? It sounds like a scare tactic to prevent him for paying for the change.... melting the siding wouldn’t matter either way if anything was going to melt it would be the soffit cover if the fireplace vent was too close, not the siding


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[redneckcharlie]

Im curious, was it addressed before the siding and shingles went on? It should be done to plan unless u agreed on the change or asked for it, pretty cut and dry.

 

[larry4406]

Get the manual for the actual gas fireplace in your home and study it for clearances. There should be criteria for the vertical distance from the flue wall cap to the soffit above. Don't quote me but I think it is typically something like 15-18". Different specs if the soffit is vented or not. Typically the lesser number is for unventilated soffit above while the larger is for vented soffit.

We call those fireplace bump-out structures "dog sheds" and depending on house type, we build them with either shed roof or gable end like yours.

Several years back I built a house that had a non-standard raised fireplace to accommodate a custom raised hearth detail. This in turn raised the vent termination and we were too close to the shed roof soffit with the dog shed at standard dimensions. We tore the roof off the dog shed, extended its walls higher, then rebuilt the roof. It was a shed roof detail like your plans call for.

With facts in hand from your manual, show your builder he is wrong and that you request it be built per plan. While studying the manual, make sure the flue termination cap is proper regarding siding installation. No need for any waiver.

 

[RWorth]

Simple solution, call the engineer that drew it.

 

[GMCGarage]

Building a new home. Stressed out. Trying to make sure everything is done right. House is framed and the bumpout for the fireplace is different than the plans, I wanted a shed roof and they framed a gable roof which looks terrible. builder said he did it that way because it will melt the siding. The fireplace vents out the back and I don't understand what difference the roof makes. Said he could change it if I sign a waiver saying he's not responsible for the siding melting.

Have the builder send a RFI to the engineer/Architect. Let them take the liability, as a home owner you paid them for their expertise so you dont have liabilities.

 

[jbwilkins]

Get the manual for the actual gas fireplace in your home and study it for clearances. There should be criteria for the vertical distance from the flue wall cap to the soffit above. Don't quote me but I think it is typically something like 15-18". Different specs if the soffit is vented or not. Typically the lesser number is for unventilated soffit above while the larger is for vented soffit.

THIS might be what he's talking about when he stated the (siding will melt).....I noticed the bump out was on the rear of the house at a eve, with the shed roof under that eve, there may be clearance issues if he builds it as drawn....Keep in mind, generally, architects don't have a clue what fireplace is going to be installed and what's the clearance requirements when they draw a plan.

IMHO I would have just extended the roof line over the bump out, then there's no junction of the shed and siding and it gets it a bit higher...

 

[CraigStu]

I think it looks fine.

 

[NorteCatorce]

You the same carterbeauford from the gmfullsize place?

 

[yeldogt]

I'm not seeing the spot on the plans ..?

Look to me that's the only shed roof? Maybe he has had a situation where the heat rising has melted the overhang vinyl?


This is always an odd detail

 

[CJ7VFR]

I'm not seeing the spot on the plans ..?...

You can see what appears to be a fireplace shed bump out and roof in the Front Elevation view just above the center point of the view, and also in the Right Elevation view at the bottom of the view.

And a whee bit of it is sticking out at the top of the Left Elevation view.

The fireplace seems to be located between two windows that are not shown in the photo. Was this a change in the plans? Or am I not looking at the fireplace in the Front, Right and Left Elevations?

Jim

 

[bcoke]

With a gable roof [as it now] any rain/snow would land on the sides of it, from your location do you get a lot of lake effect snow ? if so the snow sliding off the shed roof will form a pile and perhaps block the vent , also the melt will form iciles ask me how I know I am a Vermonter........I know the odds of that much accumulation is rare it can happen so I would stay with the current design , isn't a gable roof on that side ofthe house ?????? IMHO bobbycoke

 

[Radix2]

Looking at your elevations, every other bumpout front and back you have is a gable - it would be better to have a full picture to be sure, but I think a gable would actually look better than that little shed roof on the plans.

The shed roof looks like it is an afterthought, the gable will flow with the theme. IMO.

How about have him give you a credit and keep it, win win.?

 

[yeldogt]

You can see what appears to be a fireplace shed bump out and roof in the Front Elevation view just above the center point of the view, and also in the Right Elevation view at the bottom of the view.

And a whee bit of it is sticking out at the top of the Left Elevation view.

The fireplace seems to be located between two windows that are not shown in the photo. Was this a change in the plans? Or am I not looking at the fireplace in the Front, Right and Left Elevations?

Jim

The picture looked as if it was a corner -- and the gutter line must be just outside of the shot. I would have looked for a third solution.

 

[larry4406]

As a minimum if you keep the gable on the dog shed, have the builder install proper kickout flashing on the roof (looks like its missing).

 

[6768rogues]

Involve the architect who stamped the plans. Did he stamp something that will not work? I doubt it but they do make mistakes. If the architect says it is ok, have the builder change it.

 

[carterbeauford]

You the same carterbeauford from the gmfullsize place?

yessir. not the real Carter Beauford however.

I think it looks fine.

the first picture is a stock photo but it looked like **** and ruined my nice roofline. I paid an architect for a reason.

checked on the house tonight and he fixed it. on to my next questions:

there are a few damp spots on the block in the basement. house has no basement windows or HVAC yet. is this something to worry about or will it not be a problem once there is HVAC moving air through the house? I absolutely cannot have water in the basement. I was forced out of my last place and have had 2 sinus surgeries compliments of mildew.

also there is a cracked block in the garage foundation.

 

[ItsNemo]

Basement will be damp until house is entirely enclosed...completely normal.

Get any blocks fixed.

When I built, they made a dozen mistakes while building that they had to correct. If it's in the plans, they have no choice but to correct to the plans. Don't let anything slide whatsoever.

 

[larry4406]

Cinder block foundation for a buried basement with new construction? Yesterday's technology today I'm sorry to say. We use poured concrete walls with vertical and horizontal steel. With CMU's, each joint is a crack waiting to open in my opinion.

As ItsNemo said, it is not unusual for a basement to be damp during construction. Especially since you said the windows are not yet installed on the structure. To that end, I always delay basement finishes as much as possible to give the basement longer time to exhibit any adverse issues (water leaks, cracks, etc) and dry out. Sometimes we rent and operate commercial dehumidifiers in the basements (depends on if we have power to the home).

What kind of waterproofing system was used? Hot spray bituminous (real waterproofing) or the thin cold spray on stuff (labeled only as damp proof)?. Do you have real deal drain tile in a gravel bed perimeter drainage system, footer weep holes, and an interior drainage system with sump crock, or the Mira-drain type system?

Is the yard properly graded presently or still on rough grade that may be adverse?

 

[carterbeauford]

Basement will be damp until house is entirely enclosed...completely normal.

Get any blocks fixed.

When I built, they made a dozen mistakes while building that they had to correct. If it's in the plans, they have no choice but to correct to the plans. Don't let anything slide whatsoever.

I am watching him like a hawk.

Cinder block foundation for a buried basement with new construction? Yesterday's technology today I'm sorry to say. We use poured concrete walls with vertical and horizontal steel. With CMU's, each joint is a crack waiting to open in my opinion.

As ItsNemo said, it is not unusual for a basement to be damp during construction. Especially since you said the windows are not yet installed on the structure. To that end, I always delay basement finishes as much as possible to give the basement longer time to exhibit any adverse issues (water leaks, cracks, etc) and dry out. Sometimes we rent and operate commercial dehumidifiers in the basements (depends on if we have power to the home).

What kind of waterproofing system was used? Hot spray bituminous (real waterproofing) or the thin cold spray on stuff (labeled only as damp proof)?. Do you have real deal drain tile in a gravel bed perimeter drainage system, footer weep holes, and an interior drainage system with sump crock, or the Mira-drain type system?

Is the yard properly graded presently or still on rough grade that may be adverse?

I had the same home designed in two different sizes with two different builders in two different towns. in order to meet deed restrictions for the neighborhood I decided on it had to be 1500SF so I had to do without my Superior Walls foundation. the land slopes to the back with about 5FT of the back wall exposed. looking at the grade of the lot I wasn't worried about a wet basement. builder referred to the waterproofing as tar, don't know what he used. it's black. there are black plastic drains and gravel around the block and under the basement floor, planning on a sump but the slab isn't poured yet. yard is rough graded.

 

[carterbeauford]

foundation. garage is 24x30 on one side and 26'8 on the other with a 5FT wide recess in the back for my KRL722.

 

[6768rogues]

Cinder block foundation for a buried basement with new construction? Yesterday's technology today I'm sorry to say. We use poured concrete walls with vertical and horizontal steel. With CMU's, each joint is a crack waiting to open in my opinion.

As ItsNemo said, it is not unusual for a basement to be damp during construction. Especially since you said the windows are not yet installed on the structure. To that end, I always delay basement finishes as much as possible to give the basement longer time to exhibit any adverse issues (water leaks, cracks, etc) and dry out. Sometimes we rent and operate commercial dehumidifiers in the basements (depends on if we have power to the home).

What kind of waterproofing system was used? Hot spray bituminous (real waterproofing) or the thin cold spray on stuff (labeled only as damp proof)?. Do you have real deal drain tile in a gravel bed perimeter drainage system, footer weep holes, and an interior drainage system with sump crock, or the Mira-drain type system?

Is the yard properly graded presently or still on rough grade that may be adverse?

The part about yesterday's technology with blocks is completely wrong. Some regions favor block and some favor cast in place concrete. I live near Rochester, NY and all we see is block. An hour west in Buffalo, cast in place concrete is prevalent. Both work well and both have pluses and minuses.
And note that cinder blocks have not been used for generations. We use CMU, which is concrete masonry units (concrete blocks).

 

[Hilltopmasonry]

The part about yesterday's technology with blocks is completely wrong. Some regions favor block and some favor cast in place concrete. I live near Rochester, NY and all we see is block. An hour west in Buffalo, cast in place concrete is prevalent. Both work well and both have pluses and minuses.
And note that cinder blocks have not been used for generations. We use CMU, which is concrete masonry units (concrete blocks).

Most of the regions where blocks are still mostly utilized are usually far from concrete plants

Concrete block walls can be just as good as concrete provided they are built correctly. As a matter of fact I am planning on an addition to my house in the near future and I am going to use concrete block foundation walls as well because my house has them and I am a mason contractor so I am looking to save money


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[yeldogt]

Cinder block foundation for a buried basement with new construction? Yesterday's technology today I'm sorry to say. We use poured concrete walls with vertical and horizontal steel. With CMU's, each joint is a crack waiting to open in my opinion.

As ItsNemo said, it is not unusual for a basement to be damp during construction. Especially since you said the windows are not yet installed on the structure. To that end, I always delay basement finishes as much as possible to give the basement longer time to exhibit any adverse issues (water leaks, cracks, etc) and dry out. Sometimes we rent and operate commercial dehumidifiers in the basements (depends on if we have power to the home).

What kind of waterproofing system was used? Hot spray bituminous (real waterproofing) or the thin cold spray on stuff (labeled only as damp proof)?. Do you have real deal drain tile in a gravel bed perimeter drainage system, footer weep holes, and an interior drainage system with sump crock, or the Mira-drain type system?

Is the yard properly graded presently or still on rough grade that may be adverse?

My guess, all things being equal -- a properly poured foundation is superior to block. Although, I not sure where, why and if it's necessary. Funny, the few top builders in my area that I interviewed still use block .. and my architect says it's about 1/2 in his area .. depending on the project. Now these are fully filled and strengthened.

I think it's as much to do with the masons --- in my neck of the woods the best builders do one off building and the masons tend to be like the other trades needed .. not production. All the McMansion builders do poured .. but they are also doing repetitive foundations.

I have never done a poured -- not because I would not .. just because my builders don't typically do them ..... Never any issue. Proper base -- drains. I try and run a low drain out vs sump .

 

[aabirdman]

Hey Carter
Does that thing have a foundation under it? It doesn't appear to in the pictures. I don't understand, what the difference if it melts the siding on the side of the house or the side of the dog shed!

 

[larry4406]

If you have great experience with cinder block/cmu’s that’s great and wish you well with the choice. As I said, my opinion is that cmu is a poor choice for a buried foundation given other options today. Call it cinder block vs cmu and you fully understand; similar to the water heater vs hot water heater nonsense that some posters harp on (and the 110/220 VAC vs 120/240 VAC comments/posters).

Getting the vertical steel reinforcement placed properly in the cells, horizontal reinforcement wires in the bed joints, getting the cells properly filled and vibrated without cold joints, all are weak points prone with error. Very few are done properly, again in my opinion. If your guy is great and on top of his game, then proceed and hope that a wet basement does not occur. Not saying poured foundations are leak free; I’ve had my share.

Can a 5-6 man block crew lay a complete 9’ tall buried foundation turnkey in 2-3 days with reinforcement and full inspections and zero cold joints in the cells? Doubt it. Poured walls in my area we stand panels one day with steel placement , inspect the 2nd day then proceed to pour, strip the 3rd. During spring and summer we stand, inspect, and pour in one day due to longer day light hours. This with 3500-10000 sqft homes on 2 floors not counting basement.

If the nearest concrete plant is 15 counties away, then yes you are probably SOL with a poured foundation. Thus cmu is your only choice with proper attention required unless you bring in precast walls and a crane to set them (OP mentioned Superior Walls which I believe is a precast outfit).

Wish you the best. Remember with opinions, you get what you pay for.

 

[jhelrey]

Pic of the new roof?

 

[carterbeauford]

Yesterday's technology today I'm sorry to say. We use poured concrete walls with vertical and horizontal steel.

precast walls were my first choice, I just didn't have any room left in the budget. my builder isn't really up on the latest technology, he's a production builder and uses what he knows. although two of the best builders I've ever met and two of the nicest homes I've ever seen built both used block but that was 1993 and 2001.

Hey Carter
Does that thing have a foundation under it?

cantilevered on 2x10s

Pic of the new roof?

will get one next time I'm there

 

[carterbeauford]

I specified a gas water heater, builder insists on using electric and says a gas power vent is "I don't know, $1500"

a 50 gallon non power vent is $500 and a 50 gallon power vent is $1000

where is a good place to put a chimney for a non power vent setup? it would have to go through an interior wall somewhere.

 

[kbs2244]

If he builds to plan, he is legaly covered,
If he doesn't, without a change order, he is libel.

Don't sign anything and have him build to the plans.

They were drawn and OKed by guys smarter than him.

 

[Jlbc212]

Concrete blocks provide multiple hidden passageways for termites to build their tunnels without being discovered. I would never buy a house with a concrete block foundation.

Anyone who has sinus issues and/or plans on utilizing a basement for any kind of activity should plan on running a dehumidifier in the basement space.

 

[carterbeauford]

Don't sign anything

signing a waiver was never brought up again. same guy wanted me to pay the taxes on the lot after I made a deposit on it. I said I'll pay the taxes after the deed is in my name. taxes were never brought up again.

every red flag of a crooked homebuilder is there. only reason I signed was because I'm getting what would have been a $12-15K 3 car garage for free.

 

[850xpeps]

You signed because he would build you a 15$ garage for free? That’s sounds like a terrible desicion. If he just put tar like you said you will eventusllly have basement leaks with the block. The last thing you should have done to save money was compromise on a basement wall system. Icf are my first choice with concrete second and nothing else. You will hate life when something shifts and cracks your block wall.


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[carterbeauford]

You signed because he would build you a 15$ garage for free? That’s sounds like a terrible desicion.

a lot more to the story I'd rather not share, when you lose your home and almost lose your family a block basement looks awfully attractive. Superior Walls weren't in the budget. not planning on living here forever.

 

[850xpeps]

a lot more to the story I'd rather not share, when you lose your home and almost lose your family a block basement looks awfully attractive. Superior Walls weren't in the budget. not planning on living here forever.

Fair enough. I wish you well and hope everything works out for you.


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[carterbeauford]

Left out that it's a sole builder neighborhood and it's the only nice neighborhood left with cul de sacs. I am strongly opposed to sole builder neighborhoods. My street is named after his wife. 10 years max and I build my house with Superior Walls, Hardi Plank and Andersen windows on 1+ acres. For now it's a pretty nice house.

 

[ripperd]

I specified a gas water heater, builder insists on using electric and says a gas power vent is "I don't know, $1500"

a 50 gallon non power vent is $500 and a 50 gallon power vent is $1000

where is a good place to put a chimney for a non power vent setup? it would have to go through an interior wall somewhere.

I'm not sure if it is a state or national regulation, but here you cannot put a natural draft water heater in unless its replacing an old one. New construction is all power vented.