Home Depot 2' High Bay Lights
- Thread starter Zaxxn
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ctgoodman
Well-known member
If they are anything like the ones I got on amazon you should get some great light output from them. I have 4 In my 36x48 for the time being. Probably going to add two more and then some specific task and bench lighting once I get in there.
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That looks amazing, @ctgoodman - the main space of the shop I am building is 46x28x14h, and it seems like I'd be well lit with 6 of them in there! Somehow that sounds more appealing than wiring dozens of conventional LED 4' shop fixtures and suspension mounting them...
Thanks for the pics!
Thanks for the pics!
ctgoodman
Well-known member
These are the ones I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XSNQD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iHr4BbVT0KMVX
They are 100 watt each and are 13000 lumens. Each only draw about .833 Amps so you can get quite a few on a 20 Amp circuit. I do think I will be adding two more for a total of 6. My ceiling height is also 14’ and I don’t think I would have went with these with a 12’ or lower ceiling. I also agree with not wiring dozens of individual shop light style fixtures. There is also a cost both in wire, connectors, and time the more you connect.
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ctgoodman
Well-known member
What would be a good watt per lumen ratio? What are some fixtures available that achieve that?
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cory58
Well-known member
It's pretty common to find fixtures that are 150 lumens per watt these days. TechBrite, Atlas, LSI, Albeo, etc... they all make them... AND these are real brand name products!
Good luck,
CD
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Similar products with higher efficiency and lower cost:
https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/LED-High-Bays-LED-Low-Bays-s/150.htm
https://greenlightdepot.com/collections/led-linear-high-bays
https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/LED-High-Bays-LED-Low-Bays-s/150.htm
https://greenlightdepot.com/collections/led-linear-high-bays
Thanks for those links - much appreciated! Guess I'll have to do some more research.
Just in case there are any home automation gurus around, or anyone that has more intimate knowledge of the 0-10V dimming: It seems that the hookup for it are just 2 low voltage wires, so the dimmer itself will have to supply it's own power for the 0-10V dimming signal - can I just use any power supply independent from the light's driver? Meaning, is the 0-10V input just looking for any kind of voltage between 0-10VDC from whichever source?
If that's the case, it would be rather simple to integrate them into e.g. Z-Wave control, since there is a company now that makes a Z-Wave 0-10V dimmer.
Thanks,
Zax
Zax, the power for the 0-10 control is supplied by the LED driver, not the switch. You wont need a power supply.
CD
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Hmmmm...if I look at the wiring diagram on a PDF of the aforementioned lights (https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/v/vspfiles/Erythin/559620104.pdf) they show the dimmer being fed by line voltage and then the 0-10V output of the dimmer connected to the DIM+ and DIM- leads.
When you scroll down to the wiring diagram on the Z-Wave 0-10V dimmer I am looking at (http://qubino.com/products/flush-dimmer0-10v/) you'll see that it's looking for a 12-24VDC power supply and then outputs the 0-10V signal to the light. So what I was wondering about if the 12-24VDC supply voltage can be provided by just really anything, or if they need to have some kind of a relation to the line voltage into the LED driver, or the LED driver output voltage or so...not sure if I explained that understandably
Thanks,
Zax
When you scroll down to the wiring diagram on the Z-Wave 0-10V dimmer I am looking at (http://qubino.com/products/flush-dimmer0-10v/) you'll see that it's looking for a 12-24VDC power supply and then outputs the 0-10V signal to the light. So what I was wondering about if the 12-24VDC supply voltage can be provided by just really anything, or if they need to have some kind of a relation to the line voltage into the LED driver, or the LED driver output voltage or so...not sure if I explained that understandably
Thanks,
Zax
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Well that diagram is just plain wrong. Just run the violet and grey wires fixture to fixture and connect to dimmer. That's all there is to it.
Zax, what they are trying to show you in that diagram is a combination dimmer/switch. The switch part of it works on AC voltage, just like any other switch. The dimming works on 0-10 VDC that is supplied by the driver.
There are many of these switches out there. Here is one example: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/lighting/controls/products/documents/greengate/spec_sheets/0-10v_slide_dim_spec_sheet.pdf
Or you can use the one that Platonic Solid said. The other one that you referenced will not work.
CD
Thanks for the info, Platonic Solid and cybrdyke - bummer, guess no way of easily integrating the dimming into the rest of the houses home automation since there are at this point no other 0-10V Z-Wave compatible dimmers around. Would have been nice for all kinds of shenanigans like light level setting depending on the available outside light (what comes into the windows) and so on, but I can still at least switch them with a Z-Wave switch and just use a dimmer to control the brightness manually. I am sure there will be a suitable Z-Wave dimmer at some point.
Thanks again,
Zax
Thanks again,
Zax
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Google search shows this -
Image inked to Amazon
That is exactly the one I was contemplating, but I don't think it would work with these kinds of lights. The vendor (who is in Poland) answered my inquiry stating that these are made for lights that are hooked up to an external led driver and wouldn't work with lights that just have a 0-10V 2-Wire hookup?Google search shows this -
Image inked to Amazon
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Maybe not the very highest lm/W ratio, but still pretty decent, and the price certainly was right at $89 with free shipping over $199. Ended up ordering 8 of these just now, we'll see how they work out! I'll post an update when they get here (apparently on the 11th).
https://www.lightup.com/2ft-led-linear-high-bay-2nd-gen-165w-21450-lumens-torshare-ltd.html
--Zax
https://www.lightup.com/2ft-led-linear-high-bay-2nd-gen-165w-21450-lumens-torshare-ltd.html
--Zax
sennister
Well-known member
I went from 8' florescent lights to 4' LED Fixtures in my pole barn. While it is heated out there, I keep it around 40F in the winter and I love how there is no warm up flicker to the LED lights. The only complaint I have is that it feels like the light is more directional. I have two banks of lights. Each bank is 5x4' fixtures. They seem to produce more shadows and as you are further away from being below them it gets darker quicker. I think this is because the LEDs are in surface mount strips pointing straight down and the diffuser can only do so much. I ended up adding another 8' of lights directly above my work bench to give me more light there as I was too far away from being right below them.
Now, I am using lights from Amazon and slightly different design. That said they seem to not send light out to the side as well as other lights. Overall I am still happy with them but watch placement.
I do have a ZWave switch on them but just a basic on/off not dimming. I personally don't need the dimming capability. If I am out in my shop, I am working and want light.
Now, I am using lights from Amazon and slightly different design. That said they seem to not send light out to the side as well as other lights. Overall I am still happy with them but watch placement.
I do have a ZWave switch on them but just a basic on/off not dimming. I personally don't need the dimming capability. If I am out in my shop, I am working and want light.
I went with these:
https://www.amazon.com/Parmida-LED-Commercial-Industrial-Warehouse/dp/B079SK3BJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546614739&sr=8-1&keywords=225w+led+high+bay
in my 48'x48'x16' (scissor ~ 16'-19' to bottom of truss) barn and have been very happy. I did a comparison spreadsheet between the standard 3,800 lumen fixtures, 2' fixtures ~14.4k, round high bay 30k+, and a few others, and figured that these were the best $/lumen since I would need >40' of the standard fixtures (too much work IMO hanging) so I ended up going with 8 of these on 4 circuits using the Lutron switches. Lutron/Leviton does make a 0-10V wifi/bluetooth smart system (I'm unsure if it is Z-Wave) that I skipped on due to costs.
Ignore some of the temporary insulation conditions.
https://www.amazon.com/Parmida-LED-Commercial-Industrial-Warehouse/dp/B079SK3BJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546614739&sr=8-1&keywords=225w+led+high+bay
in my 48'x48'x16' (scissor ~ 16'-19' to bottom of truss) barn and have been very happy. I did a comparison spreadsheet between the standard 3,800 lumen fixtures, 2' fixtures ~14.4k, round high bay 30k+, and a few others, and figured that these were the best $/lumen since I would need >40' of the standard fixtures (too much work IMO hanging) so I ended up going with 8 of these on 4 circuits using the Lutron switches. Lutron/Leviton does make a 0-10V wifi/bluetooth smart system (I'm unsure if it is Z-Wave) that I skipped on due to costs.
Ignore some of the temporary insulation conditions.
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Speaking of Z-Wave - I actually did order one of those 0-10V dimmers from above. I looked into it a bit more, and they might actually work with the lights. Ordered one to try. I plan to program a few pistons in WebCore that do things like dim/brighten the lights depending on available daylight in the space and so on, as well as the lights in each bay turning on at a lower level when someone parks a car at night and such. We'll see if it works out!
--Zax
--Zax
Lutron uses their own protocol.
Leviton makes lots of devices that use either EnOcean protocol, Z-wave Plus or Bluetooth LE. Of course, they still make some X10 stuff, too.
CD
Very nice, looking at the diagram from the dimmer it looks straightforward for the 0-10V circuit, but you will have to get 24V DC to it:
It looks like most controllers can pull power off of the device it is controlling, but 0-10V isn't going to have input that can power it. Would you typically use a small 120VAC to 24VDC transformer?*
Thanks, I need to do more research on protocols and available hardware before selecting for my use. My initial intent was to have full control of the barn from my phone including garage doors, entry door lock (and give temporary access if someone needed to borrow something). Looking at switches that were capable of 0-10V and smart connected yielded nothing. A separate controller was required outside of the switch and the costs added up along with the connected switches.*
*Sorry for the hijack, I stopped my research when I was not seeing smart control in my 2018 budget. I need to dig back in again.
Very nice, looking at the diagram from the dimmer it looks straightforward for the 0-10V circuit, but you will have to get 24V DC to it:
It looks like most controllers can pull power off of the device it is controlling, but 0-10V isn't going to have input that can power it. Would you typically use a small 120VAC to 24VDC transformer?*
Thanks, I need to do more research on protocols and available hardware before selecting for my use. My initial intent was to have full control of the barn from my phone including garage doors, entry door lock (and give temporary access if someone needed to borrow something). Looking at switches that were capable of 0-10V and smart connected yielded nothing. A separate controller was required outside of the switch and the costs added up along with the connected switches.*
*Sorry for the hijack, I stopped my research when I was not seeing smart control in my 2018 budget. I need to dig back in again.
Look into www.casetawireless.com . It's a Lutron product. You'll need wifi in the barn, though, if you want to use your cellie to control things from a remote location.
CD
No need to be sorry - it's always good to have discussions about different aspects of a project - just wish the title of the threat would be a bit more fitting to where it's moving!
After years of PLC back home and then X10 over here, I switched to Z-Wave/Zigbee a couple years ago. Affordable and after getting a solid mesh going quite reliable and with great community support at least for the Smartthings side of the spectrum.
I was thinking about doing it the same way you suggested with just a wall wart or something similar to get some voltage between 12V and 24V to the device. I might actually integrate something right into the box that will house the device.
--Zax
Denwood
Well-known member
That Qubino needs 12-24V to run the Zwave, microprocessor..etc. I use a few Mimolites for window automation..same idea. You can run them from a 12volt wall wart. The 0-10V side would be referenced from the LED driver.
Zax, I do dynamic ambient dimming in my home via smarthings and this app: https://community.smartthings.com/t/auto-dimmer-smartapp-sept-2015-v2-update/8336/7
...works great, however I'm just using smart bulbs (mostly HUE) and have not attempted a 0-10V solution. That app might give you some ideas though.
In my tests, dimming HUE and GE smart bulbs 50% also cuts power use by about 50%. Using 0-10V dimming combined with light sensors can be done for about $8 it appears:
https://www.lightup.com/daylight-harvesting-sensor-1-10v-dimming-function-by-lumegen.html
At my commercial site, we use ceiling motion sensors that hold off banks of lights depending on ambient, but they can't "intelligently" dim them. I love the idea of LED lights that individually auto-dim based on ambient light.
Here is one more 0-10V solution based on Zigbee that is referenced as working in Smarthings (google it): https://eucontrols.com/LCM-LV-ZB.html . Check the last post in this thread: https://community.smartthings.com/t/any-0-10v-dimmers-supported/17379/22 I do like the fact that this dimmer is already in a metal box to be integrated much easier for new construction:
https://eucontrols.com/documents/LCM-LV-ZB.pdf
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Wow. That's a lot of really good information! Thanks so much. I'll definitely check that out when I get home. Glad I am not the only one thinking along those lines and it's not completely out there to want to make this happen!
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Denwood
Well-known member
Zaxxn, we cut our home electricity consumption by ~35% doing automation..mostly lighting. I just tell the family to leave the switches on In fact, there are no behavioural changes required..other than to stop turning manual switches off. Ha.
There are massive savings potentials across North America I figure..and easy/fun to do.
This is from my thread page 53:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263351&page=53
2 months consumption, HOME meter 1.
2 months consumption, HOME meter 2 (basement)
Business consumption over 1 month. This is a 9000 sq/ft building with five commercial tenants.
This is my quick test of dimming LED smart bulbs (GE and HUE) vs power consumption. About 50% savings at 50% dimming...and a lot less heat. Why power a fixture 100% when it's next to a window during the day?
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5660731&postcount=989
In fact, there are no behavioural changes required..other than to stop turning manual switches off. Ha.There are massive savings potentials across North America I figure..and easy/fun to do.
This is from my thread page 53:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263351&page=53
2 months consumption, HOME meter 1.
2 months consumption, HOME meter 2 (basement)
Business consumption over 1 month. This is a 9000 sq/ft building with five commercial tenants.
This is my quick test of dimming LED smart bulbs (GE and HUE) vs power consumption. About 50% savings at 50% dimming...and a lot less heat. Why power a fixture 100% when it's next to a window during the day?
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5660731&postcount=989
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Hi Dennis - even more awesome information. I think I might give that cheap sensor a shot - sometimes there is nothing wrong with achieving the same thing with a more simple solution, although, as a professional geek I always like to figure out things like that just because I can
I totally agree with you on the energy savings - I have most of the house now equipped with presence/motion/occupancy sensors and it's working out well. I also added a lot of other routines like certain devices turning off when the last person leaves the house, and adjusting HVAC controls depending on occupancy and such.
The only thing I wished is that ST would do more things locally processed. But I like the community and the simplicity of making things for ST too much to abandon it.
I bought a Vera controller and used it for a few weeks, trying to make me like it, but it's just too cumbersome and lacks the community so it's just sitting on a shelf now and will probably never be used.
Glad I am not the only SH/ST dude around here!
--Zax
P.S.: By the way, love your Westfalia! Had a T3 water boxer Multivan that later got a flat 6 and loved that van so much and it was wicked fast. Sold it when I moved over the pond.
I totally agree with you on the energy savings - I have most of the house now equipped with presence/motion/occupancy sensors and it's working out well. I also added a lot of other routines like certain devices turning off when the last person leaves the house, and adjusting HVAC controls depending on occupancy and such.
The only thing I wished is that ST would do more things locally processed. But I like the community and the simplicity of making things for ST too much to abandon it.
I bought a Vera controller and used it for a few weeks, trying to make me like it, but it's just too cumbersome and lacks the community so it's just sitting on a shelf now and will probably never be used.
Glad I am not the only SH/ST dude around here!
--Zax
P.S.: By the way, love your Westfalia! Had a T3 water boxer Multivan that later got a flat 6 and loved that van so much and it was wicked fast. Sold it when I moved over the pond.
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Denwood
Well-known member
Z, like minds, yes
Thanks on the van I sold it a few years back. It was hard to resist as values for a done up Westfalia are very high.
I do use Vera at my commercial site as I needed PLEG to do the more complex logic around active night cooling. It’s far more reliable than ST with 100% local processing.. The only week point is the Ecobee web based API. We have nine ecobee3 stats + remote sensors there used to monitor temps, manage night cooling indoor temps, and occupancy. Vera occasionally causes the Ecobee secure channel to fail, meaning you need to reauthenticate. Other than that, it’s awesome.
Thanks on the van
I sold it a few years back. It was hard to resist as values for a done up Westfalia are very high.I do use Vera at my commercial site as I needed PLEG to do the more complex logic around active night cooling. It’s far more reliable than ST with 100% local processing.. The only week point is the Ecobee web based API. We have nine ecobee3 stats + remote sensors there used to monitor temps, manage night cooling indoor temps, and occupancy. Vera occasionally causes the Ecobee secure channel to fail, meaning you need to reauthenticate. Other than that, it’s awesome.