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home granite cut, can it be done?

LutzTD

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I bought a nice piece of granite for a workshop fixture top. It is a drop so it was $5. it is pretty big, around 24x36 and an 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 thick, basically what was left over from a counter top cut. Problem is its not square. I would like to square it up with a couple maybe 3 cuts so it will make a nice top for a roll around fixture. I would also like to drill it and put in some threaded nut inserts. Does anyone know the best way to cut this? Im thinking a score and then chip it with a masonry hammer, but not sure what to score it with. Also , what kind of inserts would be best? I was thinking they would get epoxied in so I would also need to get that. thanx in advance :)
 
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LSU

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Lutz, I can't answer your question with specfics but here is what I've seen workers do when I had granite installed at my home and office.

The "long" cuts on the granite I have were done on a table saw (a really big one) that had a water hose to lubircate the cuts. These were done at the build shop. I think the water is used for cooling. The cutting which I saw was done on a computer driven, water cooled saw that was really, loud and really dusty. Think of it like a water cooled, computer driven huge tile saw. I'm not sure of the blade type.

I have an island in my kitchen that is about 4' x 6'. One piece of granite with a cut out (about 2' x 3") for a drop in stove. When this piece came to the house it was pre cut and the edges were rounded.

Same thing with the sink. I think the table saw (and it is a table saw that the granite is placed on and completely supported) can handle up to about 10' in lenth of granite.

The install guys who did my kitchen had a 1/2" drill and just drilled a hole through the granite to put in the sink facuet. I didn't pay much attention so I'm not much here.

The edges on my kitchen and office are different. Kitchen is more of a 1/2 rounded edge. Office is a bull nose edge. Not sure how this was done but there was an error in the kitchen install and one of the corners was a sharp 90 degree corner. Install guy took out a small grinder (at this point I started to freak because everything looked so good and factory fresh) and this guy used the grinder (not sure what type of blade) and he groud the corner so it was perfectly matched.

I've got the sink cut out of my kitchen and I'd like to do something with it but I'm afriad it would crack or chip if something really heavy was dropped on it.

I can tell you that the edge of the inside area around my kitchen sink has a small nick in it from where someone bumped it with a heavy pot.

Don't know if this helps but those are my experiences.
 

gbh

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Fine abrasive disc, LOTS of water. Take care not to electrocute yourself!
 

Bull

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The sort-of-family member who helped me redo my kitchen made the cuts for my granite tops by using a worm drive circular saw with some kind of masonry/carbide blade in it. He didn't even use any water, which is probably not the way to go, but it worked. He made a couple of cuts to get pieces to the right length, and also made the square cut for the sink opening this way. I used the same method to cut some granite backsplash. By putting tape where you are making the cut, you can reduce chipping. These might not be pro methods, but they work and this is for a workshop anyway.

I installed a granite top in a bathroom. I needed to make two holes, one for the umbrella drain and one for the faucet. I found two appropriately sized diamond core bits on eBay from one of the big tool sellers there. The bits were MUCH less expensive than the ones I was seeing at industrial supply houses. I put the bits in a powerful hammer drill (can't recall what setting it was on) and made the holes while my buddy kept a stream of water from a garden hose on the work area. Worked great.
 

MScott

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I cut the granite counters when I was remodelling my daughters house with a dry cut diamond saw blade in a circular saw. I just picked up a cheap blade at Princess Auto (like your Harbor Freight) and it worked great. If you need to polish the edges, it can be done by using progressively finer grades of abrasive disks in a DA sander.
 

pattenp

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X2 ... Been there, done that. :thumbup:

Oh.. but it is dusty. Wear a mask.

I cut the granite counters when I was remodelling my daughters house with a dry cut diamond saw blade in a circular saw. I just picked up a cheap blade at Princess Auto (like your Harbor Freight) and it worked great. If you need to polish the edges, it can be done by using progressively finer grades of abrasive disks in a DA sander.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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The big part is the diamond blade-

I use a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a 4" diamond blade for cutting granite, holes in tile, and Durock.
Great tool to have.
There are also wheels for polishing granite.
 

shoot summ

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Some good suggestions.

Diamond blade in an angle grinder will be difficult for long straight cuts. Lay down some tape, make a shallow cut to follow the line, then repeat. Support both pieces as the drop can suddenly decide to drop, and break the piece you want to keep. Do a little research although the turbo blades work best for cutting dry, but they all work. Lots of dust when cutting dry. You can "smooth" your cut with the turbo blade as well, polishing is a complete other topic, lots of work for that.

HF also has a small dry tile saw:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-dry-tile-saw-68298.html

I've seen some cheaper import versions of this MK wet saw:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...1&keyword=tile+saw&storeId=10051#.UDeDE8FmQUo

Drilling the holes is another topic, typically a diamond hole saw, I bought a set off of EBAY from Hong Kong, here is another example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-5-pc-...ltDomain_0&hash=item35bf3cb488#ht_1678wt_1393

No pilot drill so I made a "guide" from a 2x4, bored a hole a little larger than the diamond hole saw, clamped the 2x4 to the part I was drilling, and ran the hole through, kept a bit of water in the hole to keep everything cool and the dust down.
 

wnstwolf

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x10 on using the 4-1/2" grinder. MORE RPMs and the blades are designed to cut wet or dry (see package) and a bit cheaper than a diamond blade for a circ saw. Down side is ability to hold the grinder without the base like a circ saw.. I cut out an opening for a sink using the grinder but it was a top mount unit with a 1/2" flange so the cut could be rough. If it were an undermount sink the grinder may not have been up to the job as far as the end look.
 

Herb

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I've done this before on 4" thick granite, but it would work the same on the thin stuff too. I have an inexpensive 7 1/4" circular saw with a cheap Husky diamond blade that I use with a small stream of water. There is no dust this way and that saw cuts full depth through granite with EASE! Now, I caught some flak last time so I will mention this- always make sure you are using a GFCI cicuit!
 

slickgt1

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Easy breezy. Get a shop vac, get your angle grinder. Put in a stone, mason blade, diamond if you can swing it. I used a mason blade. Taped off my cuts, Squared it with a pencil, and went to town.

When I bought my house, the previous owners had a 5' x 12' granite table in the basement. It was useless to me, and way to heavy to move anywhere else. So I cut it in half first, and then made two counters for my rentals. Everyone was happy, except for my vacuum and ears.

Oh yea, wear ear protection. Loud.
 
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slickgt1

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I've done this before on 4" thick granite, but it would work the same on the thin stuff too. I have an inexpensive 7 1/4" circular saw with a cheap Husky diamond blade that I use with a small stream of water. There is no dust this way and that saw cuts full depth through granite with EASE! Now, I caught some flak last time so I will mention this- always make sure you are using a GFCI cicuit!

This too. I have a bunch of cheapo skill saws that I use for everything. From cutting concrete, to cutting roofs off. Love it.

Yea do the above, and use a grinder to smooth it out.
 
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LutzTD

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awesome thanx. Ive got an old beater craftsman circular saw. Ill see if I can find a blade for that at HF. Trying to do this on the cheap.
 

pump_man

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Calgary, AB
try Tool City (http://www.toolocity.com/), they had everything I needed to re-purpose some granite from a kitchen renovation into my wine cellar. Everything worked as advertised. If you cut dry, expect lots of dust, if you cut wet, well, expect lot's of water but the results are much better.
 

Milton Shaw

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I have seen circular saw with diamond blade used. Have a helper hold shop vacuum hose to catch dust and you will be a lot happier with the job. Most sink cutouts, not undermounted sinks, are cut in home with that method. Undermounts are cut in shop and rounded and smoothed there.
 

jlckmj

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My son and I just did that for my kitchen remodel. I bought 8 foot slabs from Menards for $200 each. We used a 71/4 in circular saw with a cheap Harbor freight type diamond blade, and a pigtail GFCI.

He made the cuts along a pencil line on masking tape, I followed the side of the saw blade with a small stream of water to keep the dust down.It worked great, we cut a 24 inch deep slab in about 3 minutes.

Jim
 

64coupedeluxe

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I used a thin diamond blade in a 6" grinder and also cut along masking tape. I used a spray bottle to mist the surfaces with water so the dust would stick.

I also had two vacuum cleaners running and also had plastic taped to the walls and ceiling to close off the kitchen. It was still an incredibly messy job.

Also had some granite guys drill through with a hole saw. Not sure on the blade used but I was shocked at how fast he drilled through it and how rough he was compared to how I took it so slowly. Difference in being a professional!
 

mothgrey

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I did this in an in-law suite we have. Used my circular saw and a kobalt granite blade. do it outside as there is lots of dust. I did it dry and it worked fine. Cut like butter just take your time. Cost about 15 or 20 bucks for the blade. I used a strait edge and clamped it to the granite and use that for my saw guide. Looks mint. I did not need to polish as the edges were butted together. And for the sink. Use the granite hole blade drilled the outer corners then used the circular and just cut from the top down by hand once all the way down I made the cut to the next hole. Did this 4 times. Oh yeah don't forget the masking tape.
 

rlitman

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x10 on using the 4-1/2" grinder. MORE RPMs and the blades are designed to cut wet or dry (see package) and a bit cheaper than a diamond blade for a circ saw.

You don't get it. RPM isn't what cuts. SFM is. The speed that the diamonds pass over a surface is the same. You must spin a 4 1/2" disc faster to have the same linear cutting speed as a 7 1/4" disc.
Also, the larger circumference of a circular saw blade will make it last that much longer, and takes that much more diamonds. Hence the proportionately higher price.

Stick with the circular saw blade for straight cuts (or do what I do, and get a 14" demolition saw for this, but don't spend that for just one job).

I've done this before on 4" thick granite, but it would work the same on the thin stuff too. I have an inexpensive 7 1/4" circular saw with a cheap Husky diamond blade that I use with a small stream of water. There is no dust this way and that saw cuts full depth through granite with EASE! Now, I caught some flak last time so I will mention this- always make sure you are using a GFCI cicuit!

Don't do that.
Wet cut blades (with a continuous rim) must be wet to cut. And I mean really wet. Way to wet to use with any old electric saw.
A -little- water, just makes mud in the cut, and slows your cut drastically down, as the diamonds have to push through the peanut buttery paste of caked up dust. When sufficiently wet, a proper wet saw uses water to keep the slurry in the cut sufficiently thin, that things cut faster (my diamond routers actually shoot water out from the surface of the cutting tools).

Turbo blades cut wet or dry. I suggest one of these for a beginner, and DRY cutting.

Segmented blades cut ONLY dry. Both a segmented blade, and a turbo blade, are designed to bring air into the cut, and to use air to remove the cut stone.
Just wear a dust mask, and keep in mind where the saw will be throwing the dust, before you make your wife's car look like it was in a volcano.

Put the stone on a flat piece of grass, and cut it there. If it is at all unsupported, it will break near the end of the cut, under its own weight, and will NOT break where you want/expect it to. Granite is just like that.

As for anchors in the stone. Yeah, you can drill and epoxy them in, but you're concentrating stress, and asking for trouble.
I would epoxy a sheet of plywood to the underside of the stone, and anchor to that if that suits your needs.
 

Steevo

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Rent a wet tile saw from HD and cut the three/four sides in about 20 minutes, then return the saw. The blade charge will be more than the rent, but possibly less than taking the granite piece to a granite shop and having them cut it.
I have had really good luck with getting cuts done at a local granite fabrication shop, paying cash for small jobs like a single cut or a couple of cuts to shorten a counter, etc.
The last one I needed, they gave me the piece for free, and didn't charge for cutting it to size, either.
 

Herb

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Don't do that.
Wet cut blades (with a continuous rim) must be wet to cut. And I mean really wet. Way to wet to use with any old electric saw.
A -little- water, just makes mud in the cut, and slows your cut drastically down, as the diamonds have to push through the peanut buttery paste of caked up dust. When sufficiently wet, a proper wet saw uses water to keep the slurry in the cut sufficiently thin, that things cut faster (my diamond routers actually shoot water out from the surface of the cutting tools).

Turbo blades cut wet or dry. I suggest one of these for a beginner, and DRY cutting.

Segmented blades cut ONLY dry. Both a segmented blade, and a turbo blade, are designed to bring air into the cut, and to use air to remove the cut stone.
Just wear a dust mask, and keep in mind where the saw will be throwing the dust, before you make your wife's car look like it was in a volcano.

Put the stone on a flat piece of grass, and cut it there. If it is at all unsupported, it will break near the end of the cut, under its own weight, and will NOT break where you want/expect it to. Granite is just like that.

Well, I have done it, many times, and I do use enough water so that I don't have mud. I've used this method to cut many cobblestones, 4" granite slabs, and also a couple of holes in a concrete floor for drains.
 
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