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Home remodeling pry bars

Dynasty

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Mar 7, 2013
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132
Location
USA
I'm looking for some opinions on pry bars that are handy to have for home remodeling. It looks like the three types that can get majority of jobs done are:

1. Flat Bar aka wonder bar

2. Cats paw

3. Wrecking bar aka crow bar

What size for each bar is recommended?

Is brand and COO important here or are will they all get the job done?

Feel free to provide your input.

Thanks in advance!
 
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R_einan

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Aug 29, 2016
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461
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Eastern WA
I haven't found many jobs that required more than the Vaughn wonder bar I've had for years...
 

bmwpowere36m3

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Nov 8, 2012
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1,125
I mostly used a flat (wonder or handy), long wrecking bar (42" with 90* end) and rip claw hammer.

The long wrecking bar was invaluable doing demo, framing, removing big spikes.
 
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JerryB

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Joined
Mar 22, 2007
Messages
132
Location
North Coast, CA
Since these are (relatively) low cost tools, I have all three types. Wrecking / prying tools will last for a long time.

The flat 'wonder bar' type is probably the most generally useful, until you need to get in where the flat bar is either too wide, does not have enough angle, or the 'digging for nail heads' ability of a 'cat's paw' type bar.
 

e36jon

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May 2, 2013
Messages
237
Location
San Francisco CA
I bought the following:

1) Stanley Wonder Bar: It's awesome. Gets the most use of the bars I have by far. I use it a lot where I drive the short head behind material with a claw-hammer so that I can then get my pry on...

2) Shark Grip cats-paw: This is the style with a wide sharp end and the cats-paw puller 90 degrees off on the other end. This has rocked for pulling trim (The Wonder Bar is too thick for the job) and for yanking smaller nails (my old drywall is nailed on and this works great for those nails, ditto for the 1" long finish nails in my hardwood floor).

3) Stanley Fat Max Fubar III: I don't have anything else with this leverage so it gets used a lot. I can't say if it's the best for the job as it's all I have, but it's worked great when needed.

Have fun!

Jon
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I use a mini flat 'wonder' bar as much as any. Being in construction I have every type all the way to 6 foot wreckers. I guess this is the new and improved flat bar. I sure have bent a few.

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ChaseDE

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Aug 25, 2016
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2,178
Location
Delaware
Was working in my garage and there were 2 straggler metal shelf brackets in the corner from the previous owner I never took down. I wanted them out to mount pegboard. This guy must have had the hammer of thor and liquid nail coated nails, he nailed them into the corner studs and I could not for the life of my get behind them with my flatbar and had no cats paw and ended up tearing up the drywall that i now need to patch.
 

GLTHFJ60

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Oct 31, 2013
Messages
821
Location
Durham, NC
Cats paw, long crow bar/wrecking bar, 6' digging bar and a wonder bar work great.

For remodeling, they make a cats paw variant that has a wide end to easily pop off trim. Works great.
 

homebuilt burner

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Dec 8, 2014
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1,763
Location
central Wisconsin
cat's paw: smaller is better, I usually use them in a tight spot. any brand is probably good not a high torque tool for me

flat bar: medium @ 16". definitely name brand of some sort (buy two so when you misplace the first one you can keep working)

crowbar: go big or go home. any brand as they are usually built so heavy


The flat bar is my go to but others have there place.
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,075
Location
Minneapolis
I use a Vaughn Wonderbar the most. My crowbar comes in handy for prying big things apart, even though it's not all that big - I think it's maybe 30" long. I don't think I even own a cat's paw.
 

rlitman

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Oct 18, 2010
Messages
24,591
Location
Long Island
...For remodeling, they make a cats paw variant that has a wide end to easily pop off trim. Works great.

That's a must for me. A nice thin and wide bar is essential to removing trim with the least chance of damage.

I've got maybe half a dozen demolition bars. No two are alike (except the pocket sized flat bars), and that's for good reason. When one doesn't quite fit the situation, another does.

The cats paw is nice for pulling smaller nails. You can more easily hammer it in to get a recessed nail than a flat edged bar.

Not mentioned, is one of these:
173621.jpg


Unlike any other nail puller, this can pull even the toughest of nails, gripping the shank alone. When your other puller has ripped the head off, this can still pull it.
 

outdoorspace

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Jan 28, 2014
Messages
356
I mostly keep to a 15" Vaughan Superbar and the 5" minibars but I have a 21" Superbar XL for certain situations. Wrecking bars I have not had as much use for lately. I have a pair of 30-year old 24" goosenecks stamped AP and branded under Craftsman but the modern offerings are supplied by Dasco and look awful. In terms of cat's paws, I love the Japanese style nail pullers like the Vaughan BC10 and BC12.
 
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GarageGuy89

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Jul 12, 2016
Messages
367
Location
Olalla, WA
My 2 cents:

They all have there uses, pros and cons.

The crow bar by far gets used the most. The leverage and sturdiness is hard to match to anything else.

The catspaw I have is one that has the rounded edges. I only use this when I can't get a nail out of something I'm trying to salvage as it leaves the least path of destruction.

The wonder bar only gets used when a crow bar can't fit. I find them too flimsy and I always get stung (much like hitting a baseball off the handle) when it pops or I am smacking it with a hammer.

Best combo is a framing hammer and crowbar.
 

JR 42

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Nov 2, 2013
Messages
966
Location
Sunny Seattle
I like 10" concrete nips for pulling nails, they work better than anything else for pulling finish and casing nails out the back of molding. I've used them to dig nails out of framing lumber, like a cats paw, and to back out broken wood screws when I snap the heads off. The jaws will chip if you try to cut anything harder than a wire nail, though.

My pry bar pile starts with a couple stiff putty knives and a molding bar for delicate stuff. Most used is a 12-14" flat bar (the offbrand Vaughan (Grayvik, I think) are US-made and a good value). I like a 17" ripping chisel for heavier stuff that doesn't require a 3-4' long wrecking bar.

We used a lot of Burke bars for real heavy demo at a previous job, they're easier to use than 5-6' wrecking bars IMO.

JR
 

wolf_from_wv

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Sep 24, 2012
Messages
493
Location
WV
Used every bar I could find pulling nails and staples at the 'new' house.

Oh, the nails and staples...

Vise grips on the end of the nail after the head sheared off...

Pry bar under the screw head to pull as I used the impact driver because the screw would just spin...
 

seber

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May 31, 2016
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Deep East Tx.
Over the years I broke a lot of crowbars. Not using them, dropping them. I finally found an Estwing I-beam style that my son will inherit. Flatbars, any name brand will be fine, just stay away from the really cheap ones. (Globemaster etc.) I like one full size and one small, about 8". I still have the cats paw i started with. I have no idea what brand but I doubt you could buy a bad one.
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
Messages
2,540
Location
Napa Valley, California
If you're removing nails from wood, then you need a cats paw. For general demolition, the wonder bar and crow bar are great.

I also like to use the mechanic's style pry bars. HF has a relatively inexpensive set.

KDub.
 

the gypsy

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Mar 13, 2013
Messages
1,780
Location
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
I have this crow bar in 3 different sizes. It can be a time saver, not needing to find a solution for not fitting in an odd space. Just turn the crow bar. Instead of pulling up you are pushing down as a lever but has the notch for nails.
 

davethorik

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Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
This is the moulding puller I have, Estwing made in Japan. The only dislike I have is that it's chrome plated and has already started to chip. I like the soft grip though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT0OY0K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

As for other bars, I have the Vaughan wonder bar and mini bar. No name 24" crowbar. Mayhew 30" die separating bar.

I do like that Mayhew dominator nail puller linked above. Always find something on here I didn't know I needed lol
 

Todd.Brock

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Jul 15, 2008
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4,250
Location
Cincinnati
If I need to demo stuff, it's usually in a semi controlled manner. I use a wonder bar I bought 20 years ago and one from a flea market. That plus a block of wood pulls baseboard well
 

jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
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7,246
Location
MN
I use my 36 inch Snap On prybar a ton. Both in remodels, demo, landscaping, etc.
 

southalabama

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Jan 10, 2011
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5,534
Location
Brewton AL
I've had to rip out a building after a flood. I have a collection of nail claws, pry bars, wonder bars etc. I'm always looking for a better one. Almost all of them have their place. Different sizes and shapes for different jobs.
 

CNGsaves

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Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
+1 for Zeke's recommendation of the Mini-Flat bar . . . actually BARS . .
. . . . you WILL need multiples of those mini flat bars.

You'll either misplace one, or stubborn board will need 2 little prybars.

Also, the catspaw and couple wonder bars are must have.

Great tool for removing staples or nails is nippers.

These are all available and cheap at WalMart.
 

gdocktor3

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Apr 18, 2015
Messages
5,419
Location
Connecticut
Used one of these guys when doing demo in my carpentry days. Good for removing sheetrock, plaster, wood, etc, etc.
07-0881-multi-hatchet-hammer-pry-bar_large.jpg
 

LesserSon

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Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
5,054
Location
PA USA
It depends on what you're pulling apart and whether you mean to salvage it.
Start with wrap-around eye protection and heavy gloves. Long sleeves and thick footwear would be next. A dust mask is a good accessory. So is a tetanus booster (but you can get that after you gouge yourself).
Then a framing hammer and a wonderbar. If your budget is limited, either will do most tasks reasonably well on their own, and work very well together.
If you mean to destroy, or if it's really heavy framing, move up the weight class to a sledge and a wrecking bar.
If you're trying to save something, then pulling nails (and sometimes screws) and applying leverage with finesse require more subtle tools. I prefer farriers hoof nippers over catspaws; because they are broader-faced they don't mark up wood as bad, plus the nail stays under your control rather than zinging across the room if it loosens suddenly.
Sometimes, especially with thinner pieces, it's better to drive the nail through rather than pull it. You can cut the head off common nails or cut off clinched nails with an end nipper with hardened jaws (these won't pull a nail, though), then drive it through with a pin punch or nail set. I like this one with a short 90degree starter.
 

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