Home Safe Electronic Lock Maintenance - Battery Preference?

[kbuhagiar]

Hello folks,

I decided to start this thread after reading another GJ member's account of being locked out from his safe.

I have a large safe with electronic keypad (Liberty Centurion 24 with Amsec ESL10 keypad). Every now and then (maybe 20% of the time) after entering the correct combination, and hearing the click, the door refuses to unlock. It will almost always open on the second try, but once or twice it has taken three times before the locking bolts fully disengage. It's always given me pause, but never enough to do anything further. I replaced the 9-volt battery two years ago with a long-life lithium battery, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Again, this only occurs about once every five times I try to open the safe. And when it does happen, I can still hear it activate, but it's like it just doesn't have enough oomph to open the locking bolts.

Would a regular alkaline battery provide any more voltage than the lithium battery?

And on that note, any maintenance tips for ensuring top-notch performance of the locking mechanism? The only thing I do right now is make a point to open the safe at least once every two weeks or so.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Danno1]

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Can you take the panel off the inside of the door and lube the moving parts?


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[rlitman]

Can you take the panel off the inside of the door and lube the moving parts?

It's not that. The lock bolt should not touch any of the safe components except when you turn the wheel/handle, so lubrication should never be an issue. If the bolt is dragging, something is misaligned, and while lubrication may solve that issue temporarily, you WILL get locked out eventually.

Electronic safe locks are not designed to handle much force while retracting. They can withstand lots of side force to hold the boltwork locked, but they shouldn't be dealing with side force in normal use.

One thing you can do is take off the door panel, look at the lock bolt and make sure it is free and clear with the handle in the closed position. You can operate the lock (and possibly even the boltwork) with the door open to visually see if anything is dragging. Be sure to operate the lock WITH THE DOOR OPEN and verify it is still good when you put the cover back on, before you lock the door closed.

Years ago, I was a fan of the Sargent and Greenleaf model locks that had two 9V batteries wired in parallel. They sold the same lock with both one and two battery slots, and the two battery version had better reliability (still less than perfect).

Nowadays, I use Kaba Mas locks that use the handwheel to self-generate power without batteries.

 

[aggie113]

Are you averse to a mechanical lock? If you have the ability to turn a screw driver and follow directions you could try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EDF466?tag=atomicindus08-20 (sorry, website seems to be forcing the tag on my link...)

 

[ar2stp48]

Your safe lock is warning you of trouble. I've heard that description many time; and eventually it locks you out. Then the expense is a safe tech "opening" your safe plus a new lock.. The lock you mention is a quality lock, but e-locks are known for problems. The S&G mentioned the post above this is base model; need brushed chrome, black chrome, etc, they are available to match you safe.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Are you averse to a mechanical lock? If you have the ability to turn a screw driver and follow directions you could try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EDF466?tag=atomicindus08-20 (sorry, website seems to be forcing the tag on my link...)

Your safe lock is warning you of trouble. I've heard that description many time; and eventually it locks you out. Then the expense is a safe tech "opening" your safe plus a new lock.. The lock you mention is a quality lock, but e-locks are known for problems. The S&G mentioned the post above this is base model; need brushed chrome, black chrome, etc, they are available to match you safe.

I'm certainly considering this option. I'm not averse to doing the work myself.
The Sargent & Greenleaf dial appears to be as good a choice as any. How would I determine which part number would work with my Liberty safe? Do I have to do any fab work, or is it a bolt-in replacement?

 

[strength_and_power]

As described above, you are probably experiencing “bolt pressure” when the door is shut, there should be a little play in the door. If you have to push and hold the door shut with one hand and turn the handle, it’s too full. A good rule of thumb is, nothing overhangs the edge of the shelf.
There may be something keeping the bolts from extending fully. To test. Open the door and extend the bolts. If the handle won’t turn, there is probably a detent rod on the hinge side of the door that prevents the bolts from extending until the door is shut and lowering the chances of chipping the paint. If the lock works consistently with the door open, something is obstructing the bolts work. If the safe has too and bottom bolts, it’s probably something at the bottom. With the door open and bolts extended, eyeball them and make sure they are vertical. Shutting the door with the bolts extended can bend the bolt work just enough to prevent it from extending fully.
If all this checks out, shut the doors d extend the bolts. It’s common practice to wiggle the handle after closing to make sure it’s secure. If your final “wiggle” is in the direction that you turn the handle to retract the bolts, you are making bolt pressure. Turn the handle to the opposite direction and your problem should go away.
The ESL-10 is a good lock. So is its big brother the ESL-20. But they both can have crappy 9v connectors. You should have 2 batteries. They are a parallel connection so the lock will work with just one battery. Open the door, extend the bolts and remove one battery. Lock should still fire. Swap and test the other connector. If the lock works both times, the connectors are good. If not, you have a bad connector. The soft vinyl coated connectors tend to break easier than the hard plastic one. If you have a broken one, shoot me a DM and I can send you a set.
Over the years, I’ve dealt with lots of electronic locks, S&G 6120,6123,6124. Kaba Mas / Dorma Kaba / mas Hamilton 50,100,500
X-08 ( one of the few locks approved by the government to secure nuclear launch codes), ESL 10,20. Amsec Safewizard, Vindicator, LaGard Basic, 33, 33e, smartgard, smartlink, Techmaster, Global Lock, BVk and a lot of import clones. Out of all those and whatever else I’ve forgotten, I’d put the ESL in my top three most reliable.

If you do decide the swap to a mechanical combination lock, use an S&G 6730. They make a few different variations, one cheaper and one more expensive. You will probably want a front read dial as opposed to a top read. Black with white graduations will be the easiest to read, chrome or brushed chrome can be a bit tough to read if there is a glare.

Installation is pretty straightforward, all of the above use a standard footprint so it’s a direct swap. Your safe may or may not have a relocker plate on the back cover, you can screw that up and not know it and that can be bad. Be sure to spline the dial in the correct position to the drive cam, screwing that up can cause issues setting the combination. The dial ring with have two marks, opening index and change index, use the right one when setting the combo or you’ll have a mess.

 

[aggie113]

I'm certainly considering this option. I'm not averse to doing the work myself.
The Sargent & Greenleaf dial appears to be as good a choice as any. How would I determine which part number would work with my Liberty safe? Do I have to do any fab work, or is it a bolt-in replacement?

Not sure about holes lining up. Might check online to see if anyone else has tried it. For install, this video walks you through damn near everything you will need to do it:

 

[ar2stp48]

"How would I determine which part number would work with my Liberty safe? Do I have to do any fab work, or is it a bolt-in replacement?"

The four screw mounting pattern of the lock--e-lock or dial--are standard and are interchangeable--norm brand and model Liberty safes are an easy conversion Remove the e-lock and mount the 6730 in same position. Same is true on the door; remove keypad and mount dial ring using same screw holes
Yes, the drive cam can be installed in 4 positions--3 incorrect, but the instructions clearly explain this.
A direct, front view dial is ok; a top view dial limits the view should anyone try to watch you dial the combination. The bright, brushed, and black chrome plus the gold are norm of this style. Only complaints are from those trying to run the dial too fast

No fab work, no alteration to bolt work of safe. Usually a six screw direct replacement. Likely cut the dial shaft to correct length; nearest to fab work you will see.

 

[tarmy]

I have 2 Liberty safes. Every New Years they both get new batteries…problem solved. I also put an install date on each battery….****…I know.

 

[Recoveryman]

Just changed the 9 volt battery on my safe, it was about 2 years old. My safe also has a key that came with it.
Recoveryman

 

[kbuhagiar]

Not sure about holes lining up. Might check online to see if anyone else has tried it. For install, this video walks you through damn near everything you will need to do it:

"How would I determine which part number would work with my Liberty safe? Do I have to do any fab work, or is it a bolt-in replacement?"

The four screw mounting pattern of the lock--e-lock or dial--are standard and are interchangeable--norm brand and model Liberty safes are an easy conversion Remove the e-lock and mount the 6730 in same position. Same is true on the door; remove keypad and mount dial ring using same screw holes
Yes, the drive cam can be installed in 4 positions--3 incorrect, but the instructions clearly explain this.
A direct, front view dial is ok; a top view dial limits the view should anyone try to watch you dial the combination. The bright, brushed, and black chrome plus the gold are norm of this style. Only complaints are from those trying to run the dial too fast

No fab work, no alteration to bolt work of safe. Usually a six screw direct replacement. Likely cut the dial shaft to correct length; nearest to fab work you will see.

***UPDATE***

With the help and guidance of GJ member @ar2stp48 I removed the electronic lock and replaced it with a Sargent & Greenleaf 6730 dial lock. Before I actually started the conversion I removed the inner door panel to observe the operation of the lock and bolt mechanisms. First thing I discovered was that a previous owner had a lockout - or maybe two - before me. There were MANY metal shavings on the bottom edge of the door, and two drilled holes that weren't made from the factory. Not a good sign, but it definitely reaffirmed my decision to convert to a dial. Truth be told, what I saw was less complicated than I expected. I operated the electronic lock a few times to see how it worked, then I removed the old lock. The instructions that come with the dial lock are pretty thorough, but having guidance from @ar2stp48 helped a lot. It took about two hours but I got everything right the first time. I even changed the combination to something that was easy (for me & my wife) to remember. It passed the ultimate test when I invited my wife to give it a try. She was able to open it on her second try.

All in all a very satisfying endeavor. Honestly, this is something that most folks with reasonable mechanical skills should be able to accomplish.

Thanks again @ar2stp48 !