Homemade fluid transfer pump write up

[scott37300]

Last week I needed to fill a lincoln aviator 5r55s you fill threw the drain plug, which a lot of cars are doing. You need to pump the fluid in some how. I ended up using one of those pumps you screw onto the trans fluid bottles that pumps the fluid threw a hose up to the drian pan. It worked good but those little pumps are messy and they don't work good for filling gear lube since it's really thick. So today I started gathering some info and parts to build a fluid transfer pump. Like this one-

I was at lowes so picked up a cheap 1 gallon garden sprayer today for 9 bucks. If this works out good my plan is to get a couple of these. One for gear lube and one for ****** fluid. Basically these are the same concept as the motive brake bleeder, which has lots of good info for homemade ones out there. Motive also sells a fluid pump for 55 bucks, which is a good deal but I am going to try and make one cheaper and with a few ideas of my own. And then do a full write up for anyone else that wants to make one of these.

I need a little design help from you smart guys out there on what parts will work and maybe sourcing them at a good price.

First, I want to add a fitting to make this pressurized by hooking up to air compressor. The simple proven way is to add a shrader valve, this also adds a pressure release that my cheap sprayer doesn't have right now. Can I use a valve stem out of a car tire and just drill a hole in the bottle and push it in?

The other idea I have is to hook this up to an air compressor while using it so I don't have to re pressurize it at all. I was thinking about putting a fitting on the bottle and adding a regulator/gauge and regulate air supply to 30 PSI or so. Would this work? Or is this even needed? I have never used one of these so I don't know if you need to keep re pressurizing them or if one time pump to 30 PSI is enough to pump a gallon of fluid out or not?

I am going to run to the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can find a threw wall pipe fitting that will allow me to drill a hole in the sprayer tank and thread this fitting in to get a good seal and then I can thread things like gauge or shrader valve into this fitting.

I need to find out if it is needed or a good idea to hook this up to a compressor to use or just a schrader valve. Then I just need to pick up a gauge and either a schrader valve or regulator to pressurize the tank.

After I get the tank worked out I am going to start making some different adaptors for it for different transmissions and diffs. In the mighty vac kit above they have a nice selction of adaptors to get most vehicles. I know the ford/lincoln one that I used the other day is a 1/8" NPT threaded adapter. A friend of mine has an audi a4 and that one is just an angled tube. Not sure yet how I'm going to make these so any ideas are welcome and also if you know of an adaptor that you have needed for a specific vehicle please share.

This post is mainly a brain storming post to get some ideas to work a few bugs out and then tomorrow and the next couple days I will update on how I modified the tank sprayer to work. I'm hoping with all the knowledge on here we can work together to get some ideas down and then I will built this and do a full write up that everyone else can copy if they want. My goal is a cheap fluid filler. It will also work for a motive style brake bleeder, I already have a mityvac brae bleeder that I like so I don't think I will be making another brake bleeder but if anyone wants to adapt this to do brakes it would be very easy. Just don't use the same setup for oil products and brake fluid.

Thanks for any help you might be able to share to make this work.

 

[scott37300]

Decided I was going to keep things simple, for now!

Decided to drill a 1/2" hole in the tank and insert a valve stem I had laying around. It seals up good. I pressurized the tank using the hand pump and it held pressure. I didn't want to try using the air compressor with it until I get a gauge on it. I pumped until it was pretty hard to pump and measured it with a tire gauge and it said 20 PSI so I think that is around the pressure it will need. So it's basically ready to use at this point. I still want to get a gauge for it so I can tell the pressure. And also going to work on the hose and adapters for different transmissions. I have a friend with an audi a4 that gets filled from the bottom of the pan also so that will probably be the test vehicle.

 

[tonydanzah]

suction gun or old fuel pump

 

[nate379]

Gear lube in an automatic trans?

 

[e-tek]

Sounds like a great plan. Hopefully we can read "THROUGH" the write-up!!

 

[scott37300]

suction gun or old fuel pump

I tried a suction gun with the lincoln like you recomended in that post. I don't know if it was because I bought the HF one or not but it didn't work good at all. The don't hold much at all. I stuck the hose in and pulled the handle out and got maybe a couple ounces in it, then when I went to push the fluid out it barely filled the tube. I gave up after a couple tries. When you have to put 3-5 quarts in a suction gun doesn't seem to be a good way to do it. And if I can make a fluid transfer pump that can pump a gallon of fluid into a trans in one shot for 30 bucks it is well worth it to me.

 

[bmwpower]

I'd almost rather see something that screws onto a regular container (gear lube, ATF, etc) and not have to worry about transferring the fluid into another container just to pump it.

Screw on/seal top of container with the "device" and pump away. When you're done, toss the container.

suction gun or old fuel pump

Didn't someone just do this? Oil oil pump, IIRC.

 

[scott37300]

Gear lube in an automatic trans?

No, This pump would be used to pump trans fluid into the trans and can also be used to pump gear lube into diffs. Sorry if it sounded like I was using gear lube in the trans.

Sounds like a great plan. Hopefully we can read "THROUGH" the write-up!!

Sorry about the grammer, not one of my strongest points but I try!

I'd almost rather see something that screws onto a regular container (gear lube, ATF, etc) and not have to worry about transferring the fluid into another container just to pump it.

Screw on/seal top of container with the "device" and pump away. When you're done, toss the container.

They make these and that is what I used to fill the aviator transmission. They are nice but they do make a mess and you have to pump and pump and pump and pump, your arms get tired pretty quick!

 

[bmwpower]

They make these and that is what I used to fill the aviator transmission. They are nice but they do make a mess and you have to pump and pump and pump and pump, your arms get tired pretty quick!

Yes, that is what I use. Very messy, they leak, etc.
If there was a way to replace the pump mechanism with a real pump, that's what I'm talking about.

 

[amolaver]

while i can appreciate the desire to roll your own, i don't see how you'd save money (or more importantly, time) over the motive. what are you trying to accomplish that the motive doesn't do? i understand wanting to use an air source, but that could, ummm, be spectacular if the pressures aren't seriously controlled. of course, nothing would prevent you from putting a schrader on the motive if you really wanted.

i could understand if the mityvac was the only option @ $250, but for $55.. just seems like a 'do it because i can' thing w/o any real upside. nothing wrong with that i guess, it just seems like a waste of time to me. sorry to be a downer and not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to understand the goal.

ahm

 

[nate379]

Why not use something like this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Alltrade-648772-Bucket-Pump/16200288

 

[scott37300]

Yes, that is what I use. Very messy, they leak, etc.
If there was a way to replace the pump mechanism with a real pump, that's what I'm talking about.

Maybe, I don't think it will be too bad to dump the fluid of choice into the sprayer tank and then fill. The benefit to me is that I won't have to pump. Just screw the cap off and dump fluid in and then pressurize and fill.

while i can appreciate the desire to roll your own, i don't see how you'd save money (or more importantly, time) over the motive. what are you trying to accomplish that the motive doesn't do? i understand wanting to use an air source, but that could, ummm, be spectacular if the pressures aren't seriously controlled. of course, nothing would prevent you from putting a schrader on the motive if you really wanted.

i could understand if the mityvac was the only option @ $250, but for $55.. just seems like a 'do it because i can' thing w/o any real upside. nothing wrong with that i guess, it just seems like a waste of time to me. sorry to be a downer and not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to understand the goal.

ahm

Your right there won't be much money savings and part of this is "do it because I can" thing. A couple reasons, the motive with a schrader valve is 85 bucks, I can build this for 30 or so. The second reason is I am thinking of making a couple of these if they work out. One for trans fluid and one for gear lube for diffs. And maybe even get more tanks for different types of trans fluid. The tanks are only 9 bucks a piece.

Why not use something like this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Alltrade-648772-Bucket-Pump/16200288

That is nice if you buy all your fluid by 5 gallon pails. Most of my fluid I get is in gallon jugs or even quarts. So in my opinion it will be nice to just open the sprayer tank and dump up to a gallon of whatever fluid I need into it and go.

 

[bradweingartner]

Why bother with the second container at all? I'm sure a gallon or 5 quart jug of oil can handle a few PSI which is all you'd need to move light viscosity oils at a decent rate. Take an old cap from your favorite brand and punch two holes in it. One for oil out with a valve on one end and a tube to the bottom on the other. Another hole for air in, and install an air line + regulator. I'd include a low-pressure regulator on the airline so you don't plug it into your compressor at 150psi accidentally... Start with a couple PSI and go from there.

Of course this probably wouldn't work very well for some heavy gear lube. Or definitely not quickly. I'm curious now as to how many PSI an oil jug can take. Maybe not enough. Hydrotest one first and let us know

 

[mtkst19]

the fuel pump trick works on thinner fluid. i fill my european trannys up no problem w/ the efi pump.

my setup is simple and can be duplicated for mayeb 20 bucks or less. i have a clear plastic jug--think rubbermaid kool-aid container. it is even marked in liters and qts. nice because it has a lid on it to keep fluid clean. When stuff costs $13 to $50 a liter, im not wasting it

i use an electric fuel pump and keep it submerged in the fluid and let it pick up of the bottom of the jug.

i run my wires out from the efi pump/container and hook it up to a jump pack. on the power wire, i put a toggle switch inline so i can turn the pump off/on with ease so im not f-ing around w/ trying to disconnect the jumper box.

to get the fluid in the ******, i have a long piece of hose that comes off the fuel pump and reaches the car. at the end of the hose, i uses a piece of brake tubing to bend my hook. this is hose clamped on the end of the hose. the hook serves 2 purposes. 1-- it will "rest" inside the pan and fill so you dont have to hold it and 2-- being thin, it lets you get in tight areas

when all setup, i can put the car on the rack, leave my scan tool hang from underneath the car so i can read the ****** temps. all the stuff i need fits on my shop cart and is user friendly.

for gear lube, im still trying to figure something out for thicker lubes. most stuff i just use the drum pumps. problem is my drum pumps are all traditional oil and not synthetic. in addition, some stuff i cant get access to the holes w/ the drum pumps so i end up using the suction gun method.

 

[scott37300]

the fuel pump trick works on thinner fluid. i fill my european trannys up no problem w/ the efi pump.

my setup is simple and can be duplicated for mayeb 20 bucks or less. i have a clear plastic jug--think rubbermaid kool-aid container. it is even marked in liters and qts. nice because it has a lid on it to keep fluid clean. When stuff costs $13 to $50 a liter, im not wasting it

i use an electric fuel pump and keep it submerged in the fluid and let it pick up of the bottom of the jug.

i run my wires out from the efi pump/container and hook it up to a jump pack. on the power wire, i put a toggle switch inline so i can turn the pump off/on with ease so im not f-ing around w/ trying to disconnect the jumper box.

to get the fluid in the ******, i have a long piece of hose that comes off the fuel pump and reaches the car. at the end of the hose, i uses a piece of brake tubing to bend my hook. this is hose clamped on the end of the hose. the hook serves 2 purposes. 1-- it will "rest" inside the pan and fill so you dont have to hold it and 2-- being thin, it lets you get in tight areas

when all setup, i can put the car on the rack, leave my scan tool hang from underneath the car so i can read the ****** temps. all the stuff i need fits on my shop cart and is user friendly.

for gear lube, im still trying to figure something out for thicker lubes. most stuff i just use the drum pumps. problem is my drum pumps are all traditional oil and not synthetic. in addition, some stuff i cant get access to the holes w/ the drum pumps so i end up using the suction gun method.

Thanks for the advice. Do you think the sprayer pump would work with gear lube or do you think it is to thick for it? I have used one of the little pumps you screw onto the gallon jugs for gear lube before but it pumps hard and makes a mess. I would think that 30 PSI in a sprayer tank with gear lube would flow pretty good.

 

[amolaver]

I'd almost rather see something that screws onto a regular container (gear lube, ATF, etc) and not have to worry about transferring the fluid into another container just to pump it.

Screw on/seal top of container with the "device" and pump away. When you're done, toss the container.

while i agree, that would be the ideal, the problem is that mobil1, redline, royal purple, castrol, etc all have different sized tops/threads, and i imagine getting a good seal on them consistently would be tough. i've used the little 'hand pump with a tube' method for years and hated every time i had to use it.

i apologize for harping on it, but the motive takes 10-15 pumps/qt, and just flat works. and honestly, i wouldn't bother keeping separate tanks for gear lube and atf. while yes, they are very different lubes, the sub 1oz left in the tank is not going to be a problem.

that said, if you absolutely, have to have separate tanks, clearly the motive is going to cost a lot more, so i understand wanting to DIY.

the fuel pump idea is a good one although more 'stuff' to drag to the car (jump box).

btw, keep in mind that API GL 75w90 is essentially the same viscosity as 10w30 motor oil. if your pump (electric, hand, whatever) can flow motor oil, it won't have any trouble with gear lubes.

ahm

 

[scott37300]

I just found this that looks like a great filler valve. The motive uses a standard plumbing apallo ball valve which are kind of a pain to use on hose that isn't rigid. I think this will make a better on/off valve than the motive uses.

 

[mtkst19]

Thanks for the advice. Do you think the sprayer pump would work with gear lube or do you think it is to thick for it? I have used one of the little pumps you screw onto the gallon jugs for gear lube before but it pumps hard and makes a mess. I would think that 30 PSI in a sprayer tank with gear lube would flow pretty good.

be honest im not sure. in theory, it sounds like it would work. just a matter of trying. i like the ideal of regulating the air and using shop pressure. as something has gotta give or go. I think the weakest link on a plastic bottle w/ shop air even with a regulator will be the seals/o rings.


as for the diff fluid, i have tried once to pump synthetic 75/90w gear oil into a land rover transfer case. it would not **** through my pump. ill give it a shot again to see, but it simply would not **** it. although the pump i use is traditionally a gravity fed pump. maybe ill stick a suction style efi pump and see if it works. i have some intank bosch pumps kicking around the shop to sacrifice.

 

[bentwrench54]

are the seals in the "garden" sprayer going to be okay with oil products? :shrug:

reason i ask is that we had a safety meeting last month at work, and was told of a guy who used a garden sprayer for cleaning wire wheels with some nasty nasty wheel cleaner. it exploded in front of him.

 

[dwm]

I have no trouble using a modified cap on the Redline bottles to fill my differential (80W140) using my compressor and an inline regulator plus ball valve. Ditto for transmission fluid. Just have to be careful about how much pressure you allow into the bottle. Exploding a gear oil bottle can make for a bad day.

the parts are cheap and as long as you drill the same size holes in the caps, you can re-use it on any bottle.

 

[nate379]

Needs a 5 gal pail for the base, but that doesn't mean you need to buy the oil in 5 gal. Can pour in into the pail.

That is nice if you buy all your fluid by 5 gallon pails. Most of my fluid I get is in gallon jugs or even quarts. So in my opinion it will be nice to just open the sprayer tank and dump up to a gallon of whatever fluid I need into it and go.

 

[scott37300]

Needs a 5 gal pail for the base, but that doesn't mean you need to buy the oil in 5 gal. Can pour in into the pail.

I think if I'm going to pour fluid into a container to pump it into a vehicle the garden sprayer is more convenient than a 5 gallon pail. Just easier and cheaper in the long run. The pump is 30-40 bucks, I should be able to put together a nice pressure filler for 30 bucks that in my opinion will be easier to move around, easier to use than pumping, and just more convenient than dumping fluids into a 5 gallon pail.

 

[scott37300]

It would be nice if I could put the schrader valve and fluid line on the lid of the pumps so I could keep different fluids in each tank and just switch tops and be good to go but I don't theink that's possible. I did find some quick connects for fluid like my mityvac brake bleeder uses so I might look into those to be able to buy a few gallon tank sprayers for 9 bucks a piece and keep different fluids in them so I don't have to empty it each time to use different fluids.

I'm hoping the hardware store has some of those through wall threaded fittings and see what I can come up with today. HF has a pressure gauge for a couple bucks so I'll pick up one of those.

 

[amolaver]

take pictures and if you can, capture video of the 1st use. i hope its not exciting, but hey, i could use some entertainment good luck!

ahm

 

[scott37300]

I have two types of schrader valves I found in the garage. The first is the standard tire stem. Is it possible to use one of these rubber valve stems just like they do in wheels? Just drill a hole in the tank and install?

Would something like this rubber valve stem above work good?

The second one I have is a schrader valve that has pipe threads on it so I would need to get a through wall brass fitting to attach the valve to the tank.

And the other option is a little whip to hook up to air compressor. I would add a regulator to make sure it doesn't go over 25-30 PSI, that might be bad! I've never used one of these pumps so I'm not sure if it's even needed or if I can just use a schrader valve to pressurize to 30 PSI and if that is enough to pump a gallon of fluid or not?

 

[metal1313]

i would use a screw in valve, drill the hole twist it in, then epoxy it since you wont be able to add a nut to the back inside the tank. or with some creative use of wire you could fish a valve stem through from the inside with an external nut.

like this http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htm

 

[petee_c]

Over engineering it?

Large capacity funnel, with a good section of flexible (polyurethane?) hose Probably 6-8', and a small clamp (?binder clip) at the end as a valve?

Hoseclamp the hose to the funnel. Snake the hose through the wheel well to the transfer case. Insert into fill port. Clamp it with the binder clamp. Fill the funnel, undo the pincher and let gravity do the rest. Clamp again when full, and withdraw hose.......

I do have a suction pump (looks like a big syringe, but it is a bit messy). Gave up a long time ago on the soap dispenser type pumps.

P

 

[ptschram]

as for the diff fluid, i have tried once to pump synthetic 75/90w gear oil into a land rover transfer case.

LOL-that exact process is what led me to have severalof the Hudson-style tank sprayers.

I run a Land Rover shop and have need to transfer multiple fluids into various components.

I have tank sprayers for ATF, 80/90 gear oil, diesel fuel, water for a fire extinguisher and one for engine oil.

They work fantastically just using the pump to pressurize them, although I have added tubeless tire Shrader valves.

One thing to plan for is that the tubing provided with the sprayer will eventually become very brittle. I replace with Tygon tubing from the local hardware store and using hose barbs, ball valves and compression fittings to copper tubing, I can make whatever "wand" I need.

 

[scott37300]

LOL-that exact process is what led me to have severalof the Hudson-style tank sprayers.

I run a Land Rover shop and have need to transfer multiple fluids into various components.

I have tank sprayers for ATF, 80/90 gear oil, diesel fuel, water for a fire extinguisher and one for engine oil.

They work fantastically just using the pump to pressurize them, although I have added tubeless tire Shrader valves.

One thing to plan for is that the tubing provided with the sprayer will eventually become very brittle. I replace with Tygon tubing from the local hardware store and using hose barbs, ball valves and compression fittings to copper tubing, I can make whatever "wand" I need.

Thanks for posting. Do you have any pictures of your sprayers and the schrader valves you installed? Sounds like you did exactly what I'm trying to do. Any advice on how to do this?

Also any pictures of "wands" that you have made would be much appreciated!

Thanks again.

 

[scott37300]

Over engineering it?

Large capacity funnel, with a good section of flexible (polyurethane?) hose Probably 6-8', and a small clamp (?binder clip) at the end as a valve?

Hoseclamp the hose to the funnel. Snake the hose through the wheel well to the transfer case. Insert into fill port. Clamp it with the binder clamp. Fill the funnel, undo the pincher and let gravity do the rest. Clamp again when full, and withdraw hose.......

I do have a suction pump (looks like a big syringe, but it is a bit messy). Gave up a long time ago on the soap dispenser type pumps.

P

No over engineering here. Your setup will not work on many vehicles like the ford/lincolns with 5r55s trans. The fill hole is in the BOTTOM of the drain pan, in the drain plug. So you have to PUMP fluid UP into the trans.

 

[ptschram]

Thanks for posting. Do you have any pictures of your sprayers and the schrader valves you installed? Sounds like you did exactly what I'm trying to do. Any advice on how to do this?

Also any pictures of "wands" that you have made would be much appreciated!

Thanks again.

I'm not sure the pics would help much. The Shrader valves were installed on the curve toward the top. simple enough, drop the chain of your valve tool through the hole you drilled, pull it out through the top, pull the chain, a shot of silicone spray and it's in.

As for the wands, they are just pieces of 1/4" copper tubing with compression nuts/ferrules to attach to the ball valve. I have one with a fitting to mate to transmission lines so I can flush when replacing transmissions, most of the others are just bent to stay in the diff or transfer case so I can leave it and go do something more productive-until I see the oil flowing onto the floor as I've allowed it to over-fill

I was just yesterday talking with a colleague about float valves to shut the flow off when whatever I'm filling is full.

Whatever yo do, don't sue too much pressure. You'll be surprised how little it takes to move most liquids.

 

[scott37300]

I'm not sure the pics would help much. The Shrader valves were installed on the curve toward the top. simple enough, drop the chain of your valve tool through the hole you drilled, pull it out through the top, pull the chain, a shot of silicone spray and it's in.

As for the wands, they are just pieces of 1/4" copper tubing with compression nuts/ferrules to attach to the ball valve. I have one with a fitting to mate to transmission lines so I can flush when replacing transmissions, most of the others are just bent to stay in the diff or transfer case so I can leave it and go do something more productive-until I see the oil flowing onto the floor as I've allowed it to over-fill

I was just yesterday talking with a colleague about float valves to shut the flow off when whatever I'm filling is full.

Whatever yo do, don't sue too much pressure. You'll be surprised how little it takes to move most liquids.

Thanks for the advice. Is one charge up to 25-30 PSI enough to empty a gallon or so of fluid or do you have to stop and recharge the tank?

How would you use a float vavle to shut the flow off? I assume you would attach it to the end of the wand. But wouldn't that be hard to get in the trans or diff fill hole?

 

[scott37300]

Updated the second post with some pics

 

[petee_c]

No over engineering here. Your setup will not work on many vehicles like the ford/lincolns with 5r55s trans. The fill hole is in the BOTTOM of the drain pan, in the drain plug. So you have to PUMP fluid UP into the trans.

Didn't realize that...

Easier, Flip the car over.

(Just kidding)

P

 

[snorky18]

I have no trouble using a modified cap on the Redline bottles to fill my differential (80W140) using my compressor and an inline regulator plus ball valve. Ditto for transmission fluid. Just have to be careful about how much pressure you allow into the bottle. Exploding a gear oil bottle can make for a bad day.

the parts are cheap and as long as you drill the same size holes in the caps, you can re-use it on any bottle.

dwm, do you have a picture of your setup? I'm trying to visualize it, and failing.

 

[dagr8tim]

dwm, do you have a picture of your setup? I'm trying to visualize it, and failing.

I know this is an old thread, but here is how I picture in my minds eye how it would work. Fairly simple process.

Basically you put a tire valve stem in the top of the bottle. You then modify the cap to run a hose down to near the bottom of the bottle and out to the fill/check port on whatever you are working on. Turn the compressor on and I would suggest using a regulator and would probably need under 10 PSI.

As compressed air fills the upper portion of the bottle, fluid is forced down and up the tube and out. This is the same basic idea as a spray can of paint, cleaner, lube, or whatever else.

Infact I found a video online that shows a guy refilling a WD-40 can using this method by adding a schrader (tire) valve to the can.

 

[NorCalWrenchin]

I punched a valve stem into a gallon jug on the side, at the bottom, and JB Kwik'd a piece of plastic tubing into the lid. Works pretty good, you just use a tire inflater and tap the trigger a couple times. As it empties, you just tip the gallon on it's side..

 

[byacey]

I'm fed up with suction guns. They are messy, slow, and increase the chance of getting grit from the underside of the vehicle into the lubricant every time the hose is withdrawn and replaced into the filler.

I realize I'm late to the party, but what I ended up using was a 2 gallon red polyethylene plastic jerry can. I drilled out and tapped the air vent ****** to accept a 1/8 NPT air fitting; the plastic at this point is very thick and taps well.

Where the filler cap ordinarily goes, I found a large steel fender washer the same diameter, and silver soldered a dip tube that goes down inside to the bottom of the container.

From where the dip tube exits the cap, I used 4 feet of 5/16 clear plastic hose, with a ball valve inline to enable or cut off the flow.

Air pressure regulated down to 2 to 4 PSI works fine; I would be concerned about anything higher than that.

It's a simple task to swish the container out with a bit of varsol when changing fluids.

 

[Qualitytools]

I'm fed up with suction guns. They are messy, slow, and increase the chance of getting grit from the underside of the vehicle into the lubricant every time the hose is withdrawn and replaced into the filler.

I realize I'm late to the party, but what I ended up using was a 2 gallon red polyethylene plastic jerry can. I drilled out and tapped the air vent ****** to accept a 1/8 NPT air fitting; the plastic at this point is very thick and taps well.

Where the filler cap ordinarily goes, I found a large steel fender washer the same diameter, and silver soldered a dip tube that goes down inside to the bottom of the container.

From where the dip tube exits the cap, I used 4 feet of 5/16 clear plastic hose, with a ball valve inline to enable or cut off the flow.

Air pressure regulated down to 2 to 4 PSI works fine; I would be concerned about anything higher than that.

It's a simple task to swish the container out with a bit of varsol when changing fluids.

I'll take some pics if anyone wants a visual.

Yes please pics. Thanks

 

[byacey]

Yes please pics. Thanks

Please see edited post above.