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Homemade forge/tempering

MichaelBikel

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Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
379
Location
CT
After watching some videos on youtube I am ready to try making my own knife or machete but I have a few questions.

1) Everyone who I have seen that doesn't use propane uses WOOD charcoal. A lot of the guys use this: http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/products/real-hardwood-charcoal why is this?

2) Is it possible to make a forge from a keg? To be honest all I'm actually looking to do is heat treat in the back yard without making a mess. (I'm more or less blanking)

3) Is using an aluminum keg dangerous?
 
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Leadfot

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Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
179
Location
Norway
Join facebook Group (Blacksmithing for Beginners) They know alot and you can ask questions. They also have a file section with usefull info.
 

jumbojak

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Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
1,374
Location
Surry, VA
Use a brake rotor built into a metal table or a clay firepot formed to the same size in a wooden box. The firepot will be of a manageable size and they hold up very well to forge work. A rotor from a light truck would work best and just about any piece of sheet would work if you decide to go that route. Just keep flammability of the surroundings in mind. A keg would be a VERY large forge and would consume enormous amounts of fuel. Aluminum wouldn't last very long either.

You can forge with dang near anything flammable - I've been considering making pressed paper pellets as an experiment - so if wood is what you have, you can use it. Charcoal is more energy dense and is a more suitable fuel, though expensive to buy. A simple retort or colliery can be constructed fairly simply and then all you would need is wood to produce your own charcoal.

Most people who play with fire and steel wind up with several forges. I have two constucted from metal and the remnants of a clay box forge that was rained on. No single design will do everything so think about what you want to do and build a forge to perform that task.

Also, do some serious research on heat treating. Most of what you hear people say is a bunch of nonsense. Forge, harden, temper. Depending on the alloy you happen to be working with each step will have its own peculiarities.
 
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MichaelBikel

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Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
379
Location
CT
Join facebook Group (Blacksmithing for Beginners) They know alot and you can ask questions. They also have a file section with usefull info.

Unfortunately I don't have a Facebook and i'm too stubborn to create one so I will have to figure out another way to view whatever is on that page. Thank you for that information though!
 
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MichaelBikel

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
379
Location
CT
Use a brake rotor built into a metal table or a clay firepot formed to the same size in a wooden box. The firepot will be of a manageable size and they hold up very well to forge work. A rotor from a light truck would work best and just about any piece of sheet would work if you decide to go that route. Just keep flammability of the surroundings in mind. A keg would be a VERY large forge and would consume enormous amounts of fuel. Aluminum wouldn't last very long either.

You can forge with dang near anything flammable - I've been considering making pressed paper pellets as an experiment - so if wood is what you have, you can use it. Charcoal is more energy dense and is a more suitable fuel, though expensive to buy. A simple retort or colliery can be constructed fairly simply and then all you would need is wood to produce your own charcoal.

Most people who play with fire and steel wind up with several forges. I have two constucted from metal and the remnants of a clay box forge that was rained on. No single design will do everything so think about what you want to do and build a forge to perform that task.

Also, do some serious research on heat treating. Most of what you hear people say is a bunch of nonsense. Forge, harden, temper. Depending on the alloy you happen to be working with each step will have its own peculiarities.

Thanks for that information, right now I have some metal that I will really just be blanking so my assumption is that all I will have to do is grind then harden/temper. I actually found the keg in the woods and I was just wondering what I could do with it, now it seems like I won't be using it at all...
 

Whiskeymike

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Joined
Oct 31, 2013
Messages
775
Location
Austin, TX
Thanks for that information, right now I have some metal that I will really just be blanking so my assumption is that all I will have to do is grind then harden/temper. I actually found the keg in the woods and I was just wondering what I could do with it, now it seems like I won't be using it at all...

Google is definitely your friend as there are a ton of step by step builds out there. You could definitely use a keg. It just depends on what you are looking for and how large of a system you want because it could be inefficient. You'll need to insulate it.

Here are some pages to read -

http://www.instructables.com/id/Beer-Keg-Metal-Melting-Furnace/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/6523-beer-keg-forge/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/24309-beer-keg-used-in-forge-55-design/

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=forge+diy+build
 
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gungatim

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Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
8,101
Location
west mich
search the other forge threads on here and you'll see mine I made from spare tire rims.

I would not use aluminum.

wood charcoal is used because it can be hard to find real coal. I can only get it in the winter for a limited time, it's not available year round in my area. you regulate the heat with the air/bellows with coal/charcoal. with propane, it is not only more expensive, but it's more difficult to regulate the correct heat range.

propane is used more if you want to smelt or heat treat in small ovens because it's quick and fast...
 

brianh

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Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
1,299
Location
grahamsville NY
I made one out of a woodstove insulator pipe and a weedburner torch, works well have made several chainsaw carving bars out of A2 steel.
 

zkling

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Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
If you want to make knives, build a small propane forge. A full size keg is too large to build a knife forge from. You want the smallest chamber size to fit your work to reduce heat up time/efficiency of propane. Unless you like the nostalgia of it or have a ready supply of hard wood, go with propane fired forge, a blown propane burner at that.

Search "blown propane forge"
 

jumbojak

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Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
1,374
Location
Surry, VA
Thanks for that information, right now I have some metal that I will really just be blanking so my assumption is that all I will have to do is grind then harden/temper. I actually found the keg in the woods and I was just wondering what I could do with it, now it seems like I won't be using it at all...

What are you planning on grinding your blanks from? Old files? New steel purchased in an annealed state? In my textual schematic I forgot to mention one critical step if you aren't working with annealed stock; normalizing. Think over it again I would really recommend reading through Steve Sells knife making lessons over at iforgeiron.

The fact that I forgot to mention normalizing made me realize that I'm not the best person to give you advice or direction on heat treating. Go have a look at what Steve has to say on the subject. He has extensive experience both at bladesmithing and teaching. He even has a book if your ILL can find you a copy.

What I know comes from experience in forging other tools. I'm no knife maker but I would hate to find out that you injured yourself or someone else was hurt by a knife that was not treated properly. Best wishes in your endeavor Michael. I don't have a need for anything more than the Opinel I carry but some of the knives I see made are works of art. When you get up and running show us your work!
 
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