Homemade long shaft buffer/wire wheel

[Scimonetti]

I was going through some stuff this weekend and found the babbit pillow blocks and shaft from my great grandfathers home made table saw.
The poured babbit is in perfect shape as is the shaft. It is 7/8" in diameter and has left hand threads on one end. I think the flange is machined into the shaft on the threaded end. The other end is smooth and has a pulley. The pulley it not being friendly coming off but I made progress on it.

I have had it for about a year and have been waiting for a project to use it on, and with the need for a beefier grinder and buffer I decided to make a buffer shaft with it. I think another homemade tool from it would be perfect. I know pillow block ball bearings would be better but I have this and want to use it.

In starting to design and gather materials I changed my idea to make it a single long shaft buffer. I don't have access to a lathe to thread and make new flanges so I'll just use the one end.



I'll post progress on design and how everything works out. I'm thinking I'll use a 3/4 or 1 HP motor mounted to a homemade pedestal stand.

 

[rsanter]

I have been wanting to do exactly that with a buffer for better access.
You can look around as they make the buffer cone mandrels that will slip onto a shaft and use Allen set screws. That way you can have a buffer cone at one end and a buffer when al the other. The buffer wheel can be swapped for the wire wheel

You can also get or make an adapter shaft that will hold a drill chuck on the other end. The drill chuck can be used to hold die grinder bits for debuting or even small wore wheels

Bob

 

[Monkey Milk]

Do you think the babbit could hold up to the speed of a 3250rpm motor? Maybe a 1750rpm and some type of oil drip system? If it does that would be a sweet buffer!

 

[Mooky]

The collars are the thrust bearing surfaces. As shown in your photo, you have no axial restraint for loads applied from the threaded end. One solution is to use a split collar against the pillow block one that end of the shaft. Be sure it is flat where it touches the bearing (lap flat on a large sharpening stone), keep it well oiled. Better solution is to use a ball bearing on one end to take the thrust load.

The babbit can certainly take the speed. Lubrication is critical, keep an eye on the temperature as it runs. An oil cup in the top hole will help:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#oil-cups/=vocg1m

 

[Zeke]

As you have already learned, buffing speeds are not meant to be real fast. Sounds like you have the right idea to me. Good advice on the thrust. Mail order bearings are cheap and available in 100's of sizes and types.

 

[Mooky]

Ball bearings are readily available in a similar pillow block arrangement. Shaft diameter will be the number to select the bearing's inner diameter, attachment is typically a light press fit with set screws on a collar to anchor it in place.

The shaft centerline to mounting flange bottom face is something you'll have to measure and attempt to match (or use spacers to keep your centerline where you need it). If you expect to put heavy axial loads on the bearing, choose one that has a higher capacity, (deep groove). Unlikely that you'll need a true thrust bearing (angular contact).

 

[454ragtop]

Grainger sells a mandrel with pillow blocks http://www.grainger.com/category/mo...m/Ntt-mandrel?nls=1&sst=subset&ts_optout=true About $20. cheaper thru Zoro. I have one on a sanding buffing machine I made many years ago, worked out well.
HTH, Jim