Honda small engine carb

[6PTsocket]

Recently, somebody posted that it was cheaper to replace the carb on a Honda small engine than try to fix or degunk it.
I have a GX200, 6.5hp on my pressure washer. It takes the same carb as several other GX engines. I just did a search and Amazon, alone, is awash with 3rd party sellers. There are some quality complaints, in the reviews, about these Chinese carbs
I don't know if they are all the same product or not. I am looking for a recommendation. Names of any good sources or places to avoid greatly appreciated.

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[Wamsutta]

I prefer the Genuine Honda parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ho...616818&hash=item283d10541a:g:xp8AAOSwFUxZlIAy

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[Showkey]

If your capable enough to replace the carb...........there no reason not to try and clean the OEM .........it’s really not that difficult. Repair shops don’t do it because the hourly shop rate might be $70-$120. DIY shop rates is “free”.......after all this is the GJ.

Yes ..........some of the aftermarket stuff has problems........but remember the people writing the amazon reviews may not know what there doing to start with so when the carb does not fix the problem or the engine still surges or does not idle they have no idea what to do next.

I would stick with OEM if the carb is truely damaged beyond repair and cleaning.

 

[6PTsocket]

If your capable enough to replace the carb...........there no reason not to try and clean the OEM .........it’s really not that difficult. Repair shops don’t do it because the hourly shop rate might be $70-$120. DIY shop rates is “free”.......after all this is the GJ.

Yes ..........some of the aftermarket stuff has problems........but remember the people writing the amazon reviews may not know what there doing to start with so when the carb does not fix the problem or the engine still surges or does not idle they have no idea what to do next.

I would stick with OEM if the carb is truely damaged beyond repair and cleaning.

For starts, I am going to have to cut the limit cap off the idle screw. The Honda procedure is to break it off, unscrew what is left, install new screw and limit cap. I guess I could waste a lot of time and spend as much for a Honda idle screw as for a whole aftermarket carb. I had it soaking in a carb cleaner basket, a while back, got it to run but no idle. For 12 bucks I thought I had little to lose and was hoping for a recomnendation.

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[Packard V8]

The Honda carbs have some tiny passages which clog easily. Blowing them out and/or a small diameter wire is usually all that's necessary.

The worst hassle comes from the stack of shields, adapters, carb, air cleaner, which must be aligned on bolts. If Honda had used studs, it would have been much easier.

jack vines

 

[Showkey]

For starts, I am going to have to cut the limit cap off the idle screw. The Honda procedure is to break it off, unscrew what is left, install new screw and limit cap. I guess I could waste a lot of time and spend as much for a Honda idle screw as for a whole aftermarket carb. I had it soaking in a carb cleaner basket, a while back, got it to run but no idle. For 12 bucks I thought I had little to lose and was hoping for a recomnendation.

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It’s still not that difficult........if it runs but does not idle the idle circuit is still plugged. Yes, you will have a hour or two in the cleaning project and dealing with the EPA limit caps is another step. Dremmel tool can make short work of the caps. Blowing and spray carb cleaners are often better than the weak soak cleaners now in common use. That’s why the shop will replace the carb.

The recommendation was clean what you have or buy OEM because the $12 aftermarket might be worse than the dirty OEM.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I had good luck at Heartland Honda out of AZ.

 

[Local]

Usually the pilot jet is plugged and needs to be cleaning out using a small guitar string.

 

[MrGiggles]

Bowl type carbs are not hard to clean. It's the small ones on chainsaws, weed whackers, etc. that you are better off just replacing.

 

[paulm12]

I have cleaned and rebuilt a few dozen OPE bowl-type carbs, but no Hondas yet. It is straightforward with the kits. The first problem with aftermarket carbs is questionable quality, there is a reason they are $10. The second problem is different linkages. It can be a pain to get the choke, throttle, etc levers to connect up properly if not identical. If the carb kit is available, give it a try.

fyi: I clean the carb in an ultrasonic cleaner with a soap solution, then an air blow dry, then clean all of the small orifices, and a final rinse with carb cleaner spray. Has worked well so far.

 

[JABgj]

PineSol mixed with water 2:1 makes a nice soak. Soak it for a day or 3 and if you have a ultrasonic cleaner use it too. Sounds a little odd at first but it works. If I had to replace or get parts, I would use OE Honda parts if possible.

 

[paulm12]

+1 on the PineSol mix, that is what I use.

 

[laser3kw]

I got a carb for my HS520 snowblower from an online small engine parts house. New, OEM Honda carb for about $25 shipped.
here is an example (may not fit your application)
Honda parts link
If feel if an online parts house like Jack's sells an aftermarket carb, it is probably pretty good. After all, they have to deal with it if it isn't.

 

[sberry]

I havnt bought a carb part in so long I can't remember. Take it apart, blow it all with air and some carb cleaner. They are made so most can be field serviced if needed. I can do one/most/many in a few minutes. Same for old tractors and welders.
This is a common matter of fact job, usually do it as I want to use it now etc.

 

[Cf mtn]

i agree that that carb is easy to clean up. i've picked up a couple used machines that where just not worth the effort and probably would have never worked right, and choose to throw on a imoprt carb just to get it going. i have a g100 and a couple gx160's with those 25.00 carbs on them and they've been working well for a couple years. no complaints, i don't remember where they where ordered?

 

[Copymutt]

I've found some of the passages to be so small that unwinding the strands of very fine wire ( Think earbuds) will get you the size required to mechanically swab the passage.
Jim

 

[Jsf721]

I have replaced several carbs with units off amazon. Mostly good direct replacements. One or two did not fit. Returned them without issue.

 

[kctyphoon]

https://www.lawnsite.com/threads/honda-gx200-replace-carb-w-aftermarket-or-oem.424731/

I've got some direct from B&S cheap. The newer replacements for them are a lot lighter, and don't have access to some adjustments.. absolutely fine by me.. I've invested 2 hours into rebuilding some carbs - not second nature like it is to some guys.. buy parts - wait.. get parts, wait for time.. take the old off, disassemble clean, drop parts, waste 10 min looking for a screw or pin that fell, watch YouTube videos, reassemble, won't start, watch more vids, try to play with set screws, still won't run right.. finally say **** this..

Why waste the time and get aggravated is my opinion. Spend $30 remove 2 bolts, install new carb, starts right up, needs no tuning.. in 5 years if I do it again - fine by me.. if I do it twice over 15 years - why do I care?? Saving the time and aggravation is worth it imo.

Better yet is replacing the Honda clone engine carbs.. you get new ones for $20 identical to what's already on the engine.. change it and they run like they did out of the box, and your not "compromising" either..


Few years ago HD had a "repaired" brand new (used once) 7 or $800 Honda lawn mower, on clearance for $350.. asked about it, they said - "oh yea it runs great". My answer - I'm not leaving the store with it till somebody starts this thing.. they brought it over to tool rental - put gas in it, 4 pulls to start and it ran HORRIBLE.. backfired, shook like hell.. I said "yea obviously it runs great".. I didn't really NEED a new mower, and said I didn't want the headache.. left, went home, looked up parts - carb was like $45.. went back next day - gone.. lol.. I was almost relieved cause then I COULDNT buy it, so now I still have my craftsman and it still runs great..

But yea my OPINION - I avoid the headaches. I don't WANT more projects.. you may feel differently.

 

[6PTsocket]

The Honda carbs have some tiny passages which clog easily. Blowing them out and/or a small diameter wire is usually all that's necessary.

The worst hassle comes from the stack of shields, adapters, carb, air cleaner, which must be aligned on bolts. If Honda had used studs, it would have been much easier.

jack vines

Thanks. Maybe I'll take anothet ahot at it.

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[6PTsocket]

PineSol mixed with water 2:1 makes a nice soak. Soak it for a day or 3 and if you have a ultrasonic cleaner use it too. Sounds a little odd at first but it works. If I had to replace or get parts, I would use OE Honda parts if possible.

That's 2 parts Pinesol to 1 part water? That, I've got. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner or a guitar string. I really should get one of those jet cleaning kits. I just had to unclog a 0.7mm jet on a gas stove that got clogged with kitchen cleaner. I had to unscrew the jet. Running water and a sewing needle got the gunk out. The damn thing points straight up.

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[adbanshee]

The glue used to stick on the EPA limiter cap is heat sensitive. Heat the cap up with a large soldering iron and it will fall right off.

David

 

[On-Wheel]

Don't forget about the spring loaded idler arm that not in the carb.That had me going on my GX 390.

 

[stonesfan68]

I replaced my 10-year old carb with a new one (genuine Honda). I bought mine at Plano Power Equipment for $15. I replaced the gaskets as well.

https://planopower.com

 

[Skin]

The glue used to stick on the EPA limiter cap is heat sensitive. Heat the cap up with a large soldering iron and it will fall right off.

David

They're press fit, not glued, and the needle is tapered so it breaks if you try to pry it off. A couple of times I've taken the occasion to grind a small slot in the broken end for removal/installation and then I just use a drop of silicone to keep it in place.

The other thing you can do is very carefully grind the little tab off so it clears the stop.

I replaced my 10-year old carb with a new one (genuine Honda). I bought mine at Plano Power Equipment for $15. I replaced the gaskets as well.

https://planopower.com

GC/V carbs are dirt cheap, often $20 or less. GX/V carburetors are a bit more. OP has a GX so it will probably be more like $50-$60.

I've dealt with my fair share of Honda small engine carbs. More than most. Even after a run through the ultra sonic they generally come back or they don't and develop a permanent lean condition. I wouldn't waste much more time than 1 go through.

 

[adbanshee]

They're press fit, not glued, and the needle is tapered so it breaks if you try to pry it off. A couple of times I've taken the occasion to grind a small slot in the broken end for removal/installation and then I just use a drop of silicone to keep it in place.

The other thing you can do is very carefully grind the little tab off so it clears the stop.

It's funny, the Honda OPE motors we used at the school I taught at for 7 years WERE glued on.

 

[Skin]

Not sure what to tell you. This is what GC and GX engines have been using for many years.

 

[sberry]

I agree about waiting for and buying parts. I did a welder the other day, did it 2x, found a jet laying there after I was done, I recall removing it too. Just forgot it. The first time I had it back together in 10 mins, 2nd time 30, dropped a couple screws. Ha. But,,, part of the reason I do it is not to have to wait, I can have it running again in minutes.
It is second nature to me, automatic to take it apart, getting a new one involves shipping, waiting and added cost. I could always do that if I couldn't fix it so there is no loss and I can't even remember the last time it happened.
Seems as best i can remember I might have needed some part in a truck carb,,,, and may have even found one in an old kit.

 

[Mark v]

Here's a better alternative to the guitar string.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ACOXSQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Had the same thing happen in my gx200. Main jet from the bowl clogged. Pulled the carb, pulled the bowl and then the jet. Threaded the hole with a small file and out popped crud. Reassembled and it started on first pull again. Took 15 minutes. Didn't need a total rebuild.

 

[laser3kw]

I've found some of the passages to be so small that unwinding the strands of very fine wire ( Think earbuds) will get you the size required to mechanically swab the passage.
Jim

When I cleaned the carb on my snow blower, the idle circuit took a .0135 drill to clean it. A .0145 would not fit.
The snowblower still had the surge problem, that is when I bought a OEM carb.

 

[adbanshee]

Not sure what to tell you. This is what GC and GX engines have been using for many years.

[/QUOTE


Yup, that's the one and as stated in the service manual apply Loctite 638 to the limiter on reassembly, just like the factory uses and as stated in Loctites literature, heat to 250*C for disassembly. If I remember correctly it is a pretty shade of green.

 

[6PTsocket]

Not sure what to tell you. This is what GC and GX engines have been using for many years.

[/QUOTE


Yup, that's the one and as stated in the service manual apply Loctite 638 to the limiter on reassembly, just like the factory uses and as stated in Loctites literature, heat to 250*C for disassembly. If I remember correctly it is a pretty shade of green.

I think I would cut the limit tab off the limit cap or off the carb before reassembling. I don't see much going wrong with the needle valve, itself. Needing an oddball Loctite number just makes it worse. I will just cut the tab and reuse.

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[SilverBulletZ06]

If your capable enough to replace the carb...........there no reason not to try and clean the OEM .........it’s really not that difficult. Repair shops don’t do it because the hourly shop rate might be $70-$120. DIY shop rates is “free”.......after all this is the GJ.

Yes ..........some of the aftermarket stuff has problems........but remember the people writing the amazon reviews may not know what there doing to start with so when the carb does not fix the problem or the engine still surges or does not idle they have no idea what to do next.

I would stick with OEM if the carb is truely damaged beyond repair and cleaning.

New carb was under $20. Not even worth the time trying to troubleshoot the problem I was hving.

 

[adbanshee]

I think I would cut the limit tab off the limit cap or off the carb before reassembling. I don't see much going wrong with the needle valve, itself. Needing an oddball Loctite number just makes it worse. I will just cut the tab and reuse.

If you heat the cap as I suggested, you will find a screwdriver slot on the screw itself (You can see it in the photo posted by Skin). Dealers are required to glue the cap on after replacing the screw per EPA rules, hence the wording in the service manual and the design of the screw assembly itself. The mechanics of it... nah, heat the screw, pull off the cap, clean the carb, reassemble, adjust screw for best idle, go pressure wash something.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Yes, I want to resurrect this thread !

The most frequent problem with GX (Honda clone) carburetors is surging. This is typically caused by a clog in either air or fuel primary (a.k.a. idle) circuit. On this style carburetor this jet is under the idle speed screw. Air comes into this circuit from a passage that originates in front of the choke. The fuel passage originates internally.

Where does the air/fuel mixture enter the carburetor bore going to the engine ? There is a tiny hole downstream of the throttle called the "transition port". Is this the entry point ?