Horizontal fence without metal

[ProfessionalAmateur]

I'm going to build a 28 foot long fence between a neighbor's house and mine. They're buying the materials, I'm providing the labor.

Been thinking about how best to make it so that both sides look good. One thing I've seen is Slipfence, but I really don't like the look of metal. I'm wondering if I could cut grooves into 4x4s, say 1/2" deep, and accomplish the same goal as the slipfence, but without the metal.

The fence is going to be redwood, possibly tongue & groove, possibly not.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[manwithtools]

1/2" grove does not seem deep enough to me - I'd prefer at least 1", maybe 1-1/2". could you use 4x6" ?

 

[Dustball]

How tall?

Privacy or just to keep pets contained?

 

[Pen & Wrench]

Here's what we did. The fence panels are 6 ft tall, and 8 ft wide with lattice top, same on both sides. We put in 4 X 4 posts, the panels each have a 1 By 3" board on the ends, which is screwed to the posts. The fence looks exactly the same on both sides. To make it all fit like it needs to fit, after the first post was installed we set the next post after setting the panel in to know exactly where the post needed to be so it all fit the way it needed to. The picture is from today but the fence was built 7 years ago.

 

[theoldwizard1]

We cheated when we built or "shadow box" fence 30+ years ago.

First, we used PT 1x6x10' board, cut in half and "bog eared". The fence board you buy at "big box" stores are ****. They are 3/4" nominal (meaning they are about 1/2" thick).

Second, we re-used existing post holes from rotten post. These were very close to being 8' on center. Installed PT 4x4 post. Cutting a dado in the side of your posts for horizontal boards might work, but I would be concerned about the posts warping or twisting.

Third, and this is the "cheating" part. The stringer (only 2 because the fence is only 5' high) are PT 2x4. I nailed a a straight 1"x6" mending plate to each end of the stringer and then screwed them into the posts.

Last, and I think this is critical, we nailed the upright boards to the stringers. We used hot dipped galvanized twisted nails, 3 on the top stringer and 3 on the bottom stringer. These were "fencing nails", which are shorter (2"), but still have a reasonable shank and head. Very few have come out in 30+ years, and when you do have to take them out, get a crowbar.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, 4X4 Pressure treated posts, Upper, Middle and Lower rails of Pressure treated 2X4 on the flat (attach with blocks to the posts) Pickets of big box store ceder nailed to the posts and rails. Rip the starting picket on one side so the pickets are staggered so that the inevitable gaps between them don't line up. If you are serious about the fence lasting a long time paint all wood with copper naphtate on all sides, then prime for painting, prior to erection.

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

1/2" grove does not seem deep enough to me - I'd prefer at least 1", maybe 1-1/2". could you use 4x6" ?

I'd have to make one, I suspect. My local wood place (Ganahl Lumber; not HD/Lowes) has 4x4. I'm trying to use redwood for the whole thing just for consistency of look.

How tall?

Privacy or just to keep pets contained?

6 feet. It's a border fence between the neighbor and I.

Here's what we did. The fence panels are 6 ft tall, and 8 ft wide with lattice top, same on both sides. We put in 4 X 4 posts, the panels each have a 1 By 3" board on the ends, which is screwed to the posts. The fence looks exactly the same on both sides. To make it all fit like it needs to fit, after the first post was installed we set the next post after setting the panel in to know exactly where the post needed to be so it all fit the way it needed to. The picture is from today but the fence was built 7 years ago.

That's an interesting idea. They do sell 1x2 at the lumberyard. I could use them as guide for my horizontal pieces.

That looks great for 7 years old.

IMHO, 4X4 Pressure treated posts, Upper, Middle and Lower rails of Pressure treated 2X4 on the flat (attach with blocks to the posts) Pickets of big box store ceder nailed to the posts and rails. Rip the starting picket on one side so the pickets are staggered so that the inevitable gaps between them don't line up. If you are serious about the fence lasting a long time paint all wood with copper naphtate on all sides, then prime for painting, prior to erection.

Going to use redwood, which is reasonably good for bug resistance and looks good without paint. I might put something on the 4x4s that are in the concrete I'll have to put in. The existing posts I have are all rotting.