Horizontal Frame?
- Thread starter unpaulie
- Start date
haugy
Well-known member
8 ft spans, you're going to want some sort of vertical support. If you run 2x4's 8', and then put OSB, that OSB better be sitting on the floor and would probably be best if run vertically.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
What you are proposing is basically horizontal girts (see detail below), a lot of barn manufacturer's have that as an option, with the girt 2 x 6 installed flat to make internal wall construction easier.
If you use 2 x 6's and you are not going to hang wall cabinets or other heavy items on the wall, then your approach won't be a problem.
You also need to keep the osb and any framing you add up off the concrete slab. This allows the slab to move independent of the building columns / girts.
Instead of using a Kreig system joint, a simple short piece of 2 x 6 nailed to the post used to support the flat 2 x 6 would be easier and provide better support.
Where is the location of this barn unpaulie?
If you use 2 x 6's and you are not going to hang wall cabinets or other heavy items on the wall, then your approach won't be a problem.
You also need to keep the osb and any framing you add up off the concrete slab. This allows the slab to move independent of the building columns / girts.
Instead of using a Kreig system joint, a simple short piece of 2 x 6 nailed to the post used to support the flat 2 x 6 would be easier and provide better support.
Where is the location of this barn unpaulie?
Last edited:
pmiranda
Well-known member
Are the posts 8 feet on center or is there an 8 foot span between posts?
Are the screws in a Krieg system meant to carry that much load in shear?
For noise and insulation, there is something to be said for framing up 2x4 walls inside of the building that rests on the slab instead of being tied to the posts... although that's more money in framing... I wonder if horizontal steel framing studs would carry more load cheaper?
Are the screws in a Krieg system meant to carry that much load in shear?
For noise and insulation, there is something to be said for framing up 2x4 walls inside of the building that rests on the slab instead of being tied to the posts... although that's more money in framing... I wonder if horizontal steel framing studs would carry more load cheaper?
Kaizen
Well-known member
they make 2.5 inch course screws for 1.5 inch wood. but WHY? why would op want to drill pocket holes in every 2x? Also although I have never seen any shear values I don't think its intended to be used like this. they are intended to be used only to pull two pieces together....tension? not support that weight. The glue is needed for that.
Just use exterior grade screws or nails toe nailed. I like the idea of making the wall and inserting it then attaching the verticals only to the posts. I prefer to build on a table as its more accurate and quicker.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Are you wanting to put the horizontals between the post so the face is flush with the post??
this is called either bookshelf or commercial girts. Blocking should be nailed to the side of the post in between each girt vertically. The OSB ties everything together. Trying to toe nail using screws is just going to split boards unless drilled which adds little strength for lots of labor. Again, toe nailing is a lousy connection method no matter how it's done.
But the real question is why do this at all?????
The top girt should have been notched in to the post and it's not. The girts should have been installed before the sheathing so the outside girts could have been screwed to the bookshelf gift. Without doing this you won't gain the only advantage of bookshelf girts which is better lateral stiffness of the wall(your making a box beam). At this point you can still add a lot of shear strength by just using 16' or 24' 2x4's girts just like the out side. Use construction screw to attach the girts if hanging cabinets later. Some construction adheasive and some construction screws or ring shank nails attaching the OSB is going to give you a strong structure.
Insulation is available in 8' rolls and installing it as such makes for much less gaps than batts between the girts.
this is called either bookshelf or commercial girts. Blocking should be nailed to the side of the post in between each girt vertically. The OSB ties everything together. Trying to toe nail using screws is just going to split boards unless drilled which adds little strength for lots of labor. Again, toe nailing is a lousy connection method no matter how it's done.
But the real question is why do this at all?????
The top girt should have been notched in to the post and it's not. The girts should have been installed before the sheathing so the outside girts could have been screwed to the bookshelf gift. Without doing this you won't gain the only advantage of bookshelf girts which is better lateral stiffness of the wall(your making a box beam). At this point you can still add a lot of shear strength by just using 16' or 24' 2x4's girts just like the out side. Use construction screw to attach the girts if hanging cabinets later. Some construction adheasive and some construction screws or ring shank nails attaching the OSB is going to give you a strong structure.
Insulation is available in 8' rolls and installing it as such makes for much less gaps than batts between the girts.
RWorth
Well-known member
? why do you want horizontal instead of vertical?
I'd use a PT 2x4 as a foot and stud with KD 2x4's
I'd use a PT 2x4 as a foot and stud with KD 2x4's
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Setting the "foot" on the concrete slab, and attaching the stud to the girts and columns?
Bad idea if the building has a slab on grade and it is located in an area where freezing and thawing occurs.
If the ground under the slab freezes, the slab will lift upward. The building won't lift because the column footers are below frost line.
With the wall on the floor the slab lifting now tries to lift up the entire building.
RWorth
Well-known member
Missed the picture, thought the wall was on a footing. Make an I joist for the foot and leave it up an inch.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I would build your walls using your standard 2x4, or 2x6 framing, starting in a corner and running your studs 16" on center, making sure that you have a nailing stud in the corners for your wall covering.
As far as the frost, it all depends on your location......If you would, put your location in your profile, so it's easier for us to answer questions like this......But as far as frost, there SHOULD be enough stone underneath to take care of any frost heave that may occur. Depending on where you are located, you may not even have to worry about frost.
And building a stud wall really isn't that expensive. Sure it's going to be more expensive than running a few horizontal girts, but I believe you would be more satisfied with the rigidity of a standard stud built wall. Plus you'll have an easier time insulating it.
As far as the frost, it all depends on your location......If you would, put your location in your profile, so it's easier for us to answer questions like this......But as far as frost, there SHOULD be enough stone underneath to take care of any frost heave that may occur. Depending on where you are located, you may not even have to worry about frost.
And building a stud wall really isn't that expensive. Sure it's going to be more expensive than running a few horizontal girts, but I believe you would be more satisfied with the rigidity of a standard stud built wall. Plus you'll have an easier time insulating it.
Nice building Paul.
Who built it?
You can get some ideas from my build in my sig.
To me, framing walls defeats the purpose of a pole building. I used 16' 2x4s, they span no problem.
The inside wall/floor detail depends on what type of wall system your planning, steel, drywall, etc.
PA, you should be able to find the large batts no problem.
Who built it?
You can get some ideas from my build in my sig.
To me, framing walls defeats the purpose of a pole building. I used 16' 2x4s, they span no problem.
The inside wall/floor detail depends on what type of wall system your planning, steel, drywall, etc.
PA, you should be able to find the large batts no problem.
Ironhorse74
MEMBER EMERITUS
Mine are horizontal 2x6 24" on center with posts 12 foot on center.