Horizontal Saw

[FL Guy]

I recently acquired this Grizzly saw.
For the life of me I can’t get the blade to cut straight. I either get a wavy cut or a slanted cut. The bigger the material the more pronounced it is.

Can anyone offer any tips on how to adjust the eccentric bushing?

 

[dagofast]

The instructions seem pretty clear. However, you post doesn't say if the saw is brand new or new to you. If the saw is used, then there are a lot of potential things to check. The first one being the main pivot. Is it sloppy or tight? Does the saw frame move up and down smoothly?
Is the blade new? Is the blade pitch correct for your material size? Is the tooth type and speed correct for your material type? Is the blade downfeed cylinder working correctly and set correctly? Too fast and you'll get angled cuts. Is the blade tension correct? Are the support arms adjusted correctly for your material size?

Those little bearings at the bottom of the support arms that align the blade, are they new? Old? If you remove the blade and grab the bearings do they roll smoothly? Do they have a lot of axial (side to side) slop? If those bearings are worn out, you won't ever get the saw to cut straight. They usually are not very expensive. And they live in close proximity to swarf so they tend not to last forever.

Just be methodical and check each item off as you go and you should find the problem.

 

[alfadan]

Is the blade you're using the one it came with? Blade teeth may be worn on one side causing the blade to cut an angle away from the worn side.
I've had nearly new namebrand blades lose their set after a couple of cuts.

 

[no704]

Sounds like it’s time to try a new blade!

 

[RTM]

Also check your blade for a uniform set to the teeth on each side and all the way along the band

 

[Rusted Nut]

Have you checked blade tension? My Jet calls for .004” deflection when tight.

 

[LXCam]

On top of all that make sure the blade is tensioned properly and slow down your drop feed.

 

[no704]

Plenty of saw sets available here!

 

[FL Guy]

Sorry, just saw all these replies from last week.

The instructions seem pretty clear. However, you post doesn't say if the saw is brand new or new to you. If the saw is used, then there are a lot of potential things to check. The first one being the main pivot. Is it sloppy or tight? Does the saw frame move up and down smoothly?
Is the blade new? Is the blade pitch correct for your material size? Is the tooth type and speed correct for your material type? Is the blade downfeed cylinder working correctly and set correctly? Too fast and you'll get angled cuts. Is the blade tension correct? Are the support arms adjusted correctly for your material size?

Those little bearings at the bottom of the support arms that align the blade, are they new? Old? If you remove the blade and grab the bearings do they roll smoothly? Do they have a lot of axial (side to side) slop? If those bearings are worn out, you won't ever get the saw to cut straight. They usually are not very expensive. And they live in close proximity to swarf so they tend not to last forever.

Just be methodical and check each item off as you go and you should find the problem.

I bought it used. The previous guy used it for 2-3 cuts. The saw was in mint condition. The frame moves up and down smoothly.
I did end up replacing the blade with a 8/12. Im cutting mild steel, up to 1/4" thick, but mostly 1/8". Blade speed is set I believe at 180fps.
The tension is good according to the gauge on the saw. It gives me red green and yellow.

 

[FL Guy]

Here is the new blade I purchased earlier this year. I reached out to the company that sells It, told them what I was going to be cutting and this is what they recommended. The saw is set up I believe to cut at 180 FPS.

As far as the adjusting the eccentric bushing, do I just turn one of the bolts until I see the bushing putting pressure against the blade in the direction I need it to move in?

​

 

[dagofast]

Here is the new blade I purchased earlier this year. I reached out to the company that sells It, told them what I was going to be cutting and this is what they recommended. The saw is set up I believe to cut at 180 FPS.

As far as the adjusting the eccentric bushing, do I just turn one of the bolts until I see the bushing putting pressure against the blade in the direction I need it to move in?

​

Yes. Apply enough pressure that the bearing presses firmly against the blade but not so much that after the lock nut is tightened that you can't firmly grip the bearing with your fingers and still turn it. If you can't turn the bearing even with a pair of pliers, it is way too tight and will cause premature wear of the bearings.

If you have a .001-.002" feeler gage, you can insert it between the blade and bearing, tighten until firm but just able to remove the feeler gage.