Horse Stall Mat for Toolbox Top - Question

[JeffS1125]

So I am trading up to a lightly used Snap-on Krl1022 here soon. The box doesn't have any kind of top on it. Looking at using the horse stall mats because the reviews I've read said the stuff is great for my intended purpose, and it's cheap!

So my question is; would there be some way I could raise the edges on that stuff? Kind of how the factory snap on stainless tops are where the edges are slightly raised as to not let stuff roll off the edges. If not I'm not too bummed, it's cheap enough I'm going to use it either way.

Thanks!

 

[Ign]

No. That stuff is bomber but you won't be able to form it in any way. It's a ***** to cut as it is. Search the web, tons of suggestions on how to cut it, none of them are great but something will work depending upon your tools, level of patience, etc.

 

[JeffS1125]

No. That stuff is bomber but you won't be able to form it in any way. It's a ***** to cut as it is. Search the web, tons of suggestions on how to cut it, none of them are great but something will work depending upon your tools, level of patience, etc.

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably give it a whirl while I make a butcher block for it this spring.

 

[a52-830]

we put stall mats that interlock in the barn aisles. the interlocking is great because it holds the seams down, and nothing gets under them. the bad part is both sides need to be trimmed, otherwise they are constantly catching on things (your feet, the horses' hooves)

stall mats are usually at least 1/2" thick, and made of really dense rubber. we tried everything to make cutting easier, and ended up deciding that circular saw blades like this one worked the best, by far:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IWDENA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

jig/saber saws were what was recommended to us, which would work OK for trimming small areas around drains or posts, but were completely inadequate for a cut over a couple of inches long.

 

[Sco Deac]

It will work fine for what you want. If you buy one new your shop will definitely smell like rubber for a few months. And I didn't ask how big your shop is and what the air exchange rate is. Knowing it Wouldn't change my answer.

If you are making a butcher block I assume you have access to woodworking tools. I'd think a fine tootle blade for a band saw would be the best cutting option.

 

[Ign]

If you have a vertical bandsaw I'd think a coarse tooth blade with BIG gullets. But depending upon where in the mat you're cutting I think throat depth on most bandsaws will get ya.

Plus they drape over everything like the lead jackets the dentist puts on you for X-rays, so you better have a way to support the entire mat or your cut won't be straight as it droops/sags/pulls its way off the table.

They're great, don't get me wrong. Inexpensive and nearly indestructible. The only thing I've found that can destroy them is full wolves (no joke).

 

[a52-830]

Plus they drape over everything like the lead jackets the dentist puts on you for X-rays, so you better have a way to support the entire mat or your cut won't be straight as it droops/sags/pulls its way off the table.

which is why we laid them on the floor with a strip of 1/4" plywood under where we wanted to cut, and used a circular saw set just a hair deeper that the mat was thick.

you want to make sure you cut all the way through, the last fraction of an inch was as difficult to cut as the rest of it was.

 

[JeffS1125]

Thanks for all the tips! I work in a 10 door/ 5 bay tractor trailer shop so I don't think the smell will be a problem. And between my tools from there and my step father being a carpenter / general contractor I think I should be fine on any tooling I would need.

 

[gnpenning]

Just had a thread on cutting them. Water and a utility knife is my choice. If you do use a power saw put the blade on backwards and use a metal cutting blade.