Hose whips/leads

[2ndGearRubber]

I developed a leak in a hose whip feeding one of my 498 air hammers last week. The tool had ~18" of continental hose with push-lock air fittings for 1/4npt. The leak appears to be between the hose and the fitting, the fitting going into the gun, probably due to extreme vibration.

Anyways I picked up a quick replacement on Amazon, which unfortunately has a ball swivel on it so that end probably shouldn't get screwed into the air hammer. Which got me thinking, what makes for the ideal lead-in/whip hose? Are push-lock fittings inherently less reliable than crimps? Perhaps I could buy replacement push-locks and just cut my old hose down a bit?

What defines "ideal" for lead/whip hoses on high power percussion tools like impacts or air hammers?

 

[cannuck]

I have never needed to replace a push-loc fitting. Hose is another deal. Guessing your leak happened because the rubber in the hose had crept in dimension enough to no longer seal. I would just cut the end back 2" and push it back on (with some ruglyde) to re-seat. I guess it is possible that it started to loosen and tool vibration has actually worn the brass ribs on the fitting (as rubber is EXTREMELY abrasive) but have yet to see that happen.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Push lock is nice for the short term, but I'd have a crimp ring or clamp on it real quick, especially in a heavy vibration environment. Not to mention I just hate when whips whip off and start dancing around.

 

[Zewnten]

I use push lock for all my whips but I put a gates shrink fit hose clamp over the fitting and hose.

 

[speed bump]

We have crimps on our whips on all the percussion tools at work and you still replace hose fairly regularly.

 

[Beerhippie]

I have hundreds of push-fit (John Guest) fittings around the brewery. They work very well, but, yes, they do fail occasionally. Fortunately, they're cheap and easy to replace.

What more often cases leaks is the end of the hose where it goes into the fitting. These can wear or take a "set", causing them to no longer make a good seal. Just remove the hose from the fitting ad cut an inch or so off--making sure your cut is straight--lube the end with some spit of plumber's grease and reinstall.

For something that's getting removed and installed a lot, regular QR fittings are better. I use the push-fits where they're handy for maintenance and QRs for stuff that gets taken off and moved. Problem I have is finding all-stainless QRs for use in a brewery--even the best I've found--Foster--use SS for the body and collar, but have carbon steel retaining balls. I bought a bunch of stainless balls from McMC a while back and replace the balls when I get a new QR.