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Hot dawg HD75 Horizontal Venting quesitons

bmallak

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Central MN
I picked up a Hot dawg HD75 and got it hung. The manual says horizontal venting minimum 3' and maximum 30'. I should be around 6' linear feet with 1 45 deg elbow that adds 5' according to the manual.

1.The way I read it it calls for a drip leg/clean out cap. Is this necessary?? All I seen at menards was a tee with a cap but is this what I would use?? how do you seal the cap ?? What would the Tee be used for? There is a smaller hot dawg installed in my attached garage that has no T but is vertically vented and has been fine for 12 years.

2.Also what do I use to attach the b vent to the heater. I bought a 3" universal adapter but its to big to match the 3" on the heater.

3. The Heater is going in a pole barn with walls that are 7 1/2" so the standard thimble doesnt reach. Can I use aluminum tape on the inside to conect the two pieces or does someone make a thicker wall thimble?

Sorry for the long post but am looking for any help. Thanks.
 
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Mike007

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Dec 4, 2010
Messages
2,592
I hate to repeat myself on all these threads.....B-vent is not category III rated. You need a category III rated vent system if you want to do it correctly. There is no sense in putting any kind of tee in a B-vent flu pipe system to catch any condensate in a category III set up since B-vent is not sealed it will just leak out from the connections.
 
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bmallak

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
36
Location
Central MN
ok. both contractors I had got estimates from were also going to use b vent so that is why I was going to also. I would have to check again but I would have swore the b vent was catIII labeled. I will look further into it.
 
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dave67fd

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Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
872
Location
Southern NH
I picked up a Hot dawg HD75 and got it hung. The manual says horizontal venting minimum 3' and maximum 30'. I should be around 6' linear feet with 1 45 deg elbow that adds 5' according to the manual.

1.The way I read it it calls for a drip leg/clean out cap. Is this necessary?? All I seen at menards was a tee with a cap but is this what I would use?? how do you seal the cap ?? What would the Tee be used for? There is a smaller hot dawg installed in my attached garage that has no T but is vertically vented and has been fine for 12 years.

If it is specified by the vent manufacturer for residential installation then yes. As mentioned you need the catagory III pipe system. Recently new rules changed the catagories for horizontal venting. You can use single wall/b vent in a cat I vertical system only.All residential, horizontally vented Category III heaters must be vented with an agency certified (UL1738) Category III venting system. Agency certified Category III venting systems are available from your local vent pipe distributor. Follow the agency certified Category III vent manufacturer's instructions for installation

2.Also what do I use to attach the b vent to the heater. I bought a 3" universal adapter but its to big to match the 3" on the heater.
The 3" heater vent output will fit the 3" cat III pipe.

3. The Heater is going in a pole barn with walls that are 7 1/2" so the standard thimble doesnt reach. Can I use aluminum tape on the inside to conect the two pieces or does someone make a thicker wall thimble?
They make thimbles greater than 7 1/2" search online. Typically cat III pipe systems cant be found at the big box stores so you will have to purchase on-line or at a specialty store.
Sorry for the long post but am looking for any help. Thanks.

I was lucky when i purchased my vent system before the requirement change so i got away with double wall b vent.

Here's some helpfull info as well as a place to purchase vent components
http://www.qcsupply.com/modine-hot-dawg-heater.html?gclid=CLClos2Q0rQCFcqY4Aodc3IA3w
 

dave67fd

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Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
872
Location
Southern NH
ok. both contractors I had got estimates from were also going to use b vent so that is why I was going to also. I would have to check again but I would have swore the b vent was catIII labeled. I will look further into it.

Beleive it or not many installers don't know the new requirements but also If your installer is licensed and they are installing per local codes they can do it that way. As long as you have the written proof they installed it.

You should have them pull a permit with your town so you are covered.
 

Rod N

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Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
835
Location
Keswick, Ontario
I'm doing the exact installation and have the same questions.
My supplier is telling me they can't get the drip leg.
If my vent is shorter can I go without?
 

dave67fd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
Messages
872
Location
Southern NH
In one respect yes. In a "horizontal" vent system there needs to be the means of ridding itself of it's condensate. This can be acompished in a few different ways. 1). Slope the venting system downward to drain out a hole at the end or cap end of the system. 2) Slope the system downward towards a drip leg or Tee system or 3) Slope the system upward in a shortend vent run. The last scenario, The shortened system requires the high temp exhaust gases to "burn" off the condensate. Condensate is highly corrosive so thats why specific material or systems (specifically class III) are required installations.

All in all it comes down to your "LOCAL CODES". They take juristriction over anything. Your local codes may state that you must follow the manufacturers installation requirements than thats how you install. If your local codes state that you must follow NFPA codes then that is what you need to follow, They may say you need a licensed installer or they may even care less how you do it. If there is such a place, I'm glad i don't live there.

The heaters manual typically covers several different installations on Residential or commercial installations. Determining those will typically depend on how the land is zoned.

If you decide to foolishly skip following the codes and install however you see fit, I'm sure you wouldn't be too happy when your insurance agent tells you your liable for any losses regardless even if you think or know you have installed it properly.

If your installer is installing the system per town, state or federal codes and is licensed to do the installation the installation has to be and shall be considered correct.
 
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