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[KnurledNut]

Right. Longer than ~4” or so and the drill wins out.

Drill all day for the longer RSS GRK’S. SO much quieter and unnecessary wear on the impact.

 

[bluedog225]

Lead framer emeritus here...
Since these are not being used for their intended purpose, it really doesn’t matter.
They are now glorified rafter ties and overkill as is.
If this was a customer request, I would nix the whole idea and get a stronger hurricane tie that is rated for the application or do a combination of them for liability reasons.
Simpson offers several different versions. They also have long rafter screws, but I wouldn’t recommend those due to the weak substrate side grain.

If these tension ties were the only option, I would have no issue drilling the holes 1/32nd bigger to accommodate the larger screws. Simpson does allow predrilling base material for the SDS screws, which I would do with a self-centering bit.
Two of these in opposition sandwiching a double plate is not a bad idea at all, especially if bearing plates are used. It would be stronger than any of the engineered rafter ties as it connects the stud and not just top plates. The smaller screws would be preferred on the stud side installation to prevent splitting.

I am guessing most of the commenters here have never personally built a home with an engineered lumber package? Its a whole different animal. LVL’s are dense. The larger screws will be less likely to break off or be compromised during installation.

I got 100 of these HTT5-3/4, along with the 3/4 simpson retrofit bolts and a bunch of other hardware for $100. Turns out I have about 50 lvl rafters I’d like to tie down better. Timberstrand studs. And while I specified SYP for the top plate, I instead got some softer SPF wood. It’s always bugged me.

I doubt I’ll drill these fittings out. The No. 10’s are so much easier. And 5,000 lbs or so per tie is sufficient.

I should have noticed I was using the wrong screws. Sometimes I just get used to things being difficult and forget to step back.