Hot water heater question

[Motown 454]

Hi is there a way to run this in my garage from my house boiler with the water that's in there now without any anti freeze? Can I rap the pipes and heater some how with heat tracer from the heated side of the house? Its an attached garage.

 

[jlckmj]

If your garage is insulated, and not too large, I would think that that will keep it above freezing all by itself.

Jim

 

[LS6 Tommy]

The pump on your boiler only runs when you're calling for heat. That unit heater needs the pump to run constantly...

Tommy

 

[Motown 454]

That's what I was afraid of. That's why the idea of heat tracer wire.

 

[Streetbu]

Add another loop in your house boiler system with another Taco pump controlled by a thermostat in your garage. Problem solved and no heat tape needed.

 

[anthony666]

he's worried about frost protection i believe .. it's called a 'unit heater'

option 1 .. run the pump all time .. run the blower when the thermostat calls

option 2 .. isolate the unit with a heat exchanger, use glycol on garage side

 

[Motown 454]

Can this be run by a tankless water hater and circulator? OK just found my answer in another post.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

he's worried about frost protection i believe .. it's called a 'unit heater'

option 1 .. run the pump all time .. run the blower when the thermostat calls

option 2 .. isolate the unit with a heat exchanger, use glycol on garage side

This^^^

Tommy

 

[Radio Ron w4ron]

"Hot water heater"?
If you have hot water why would you need to heat it?

 

[Motown 454]

OKKKK! lol

 

[LS6 Tommy]

"Hot water heater"?
If you have hot water why would you need to heat it?

Been saying that literally for decades...

Tommy

 

[mygarageone]

No one has mentioned this yet but how many btu's in the unit heater your talking about ?
Depending on that info and the house demand , is your boiler going to be able handle the
X - tra load if they both call for. Heat at the same time ?

Last thing , if your garage is insulated , you most likely don't need anti freeze for the unit.
It would technically be no different than the house .

 

[Motown 454]

Good question. I waiting to hear back on how many BTUs the heater takes.

 

[BigJ5]

A simple solution (for someone who understands this)

Create a primary secondary loop system with your boiler to your house. Then create an injection circuit for your garage. So you will need 4 pumps, one for your boiler, one for your house circuit and one for your new garage heater with and injection pump from your primary loop.

Operate the garage pump 24/7 in the winter and have the injection pump duty cycled off of a line voltage stat that also calls the boiler on. This way everything is completely decoupled and can work independently without influencing the temperature of your house. So if you want to set back your garage and only turn it up when you're working it wont heat up your house and vice versa.

Also, a heads up, the reason for the constant circulation on the terminal heater is due to its low mass design, it is potentially possible to freeze the water if the garage door is open for an extended period of time without water movement. By keeping the water moving the likelyhood of it freezing reduces drastically.

Do not run this unit off of a Domestic water heater, tankless or tanked. The units is not designed for sanitary purposes nor will it hold up to constant circulation of oxygenated water.

Good luck

 

[BigJ5]

No one has mentioned this yet but how many btu's in the unit heater your talking about ?

Output will vary based on water temperature and pump flowrate, you could probably see up to 60,000 BTU/hr or more out of that kind of unit heater around 200F inlet temp at 4 GPM.

 

[mygarageone]

A simple solution (for someone who understands this)

Create a primary secondary loop system with your boiler to your house. Then create an injection circuit for your garage. So you will need 4 pumps, one for your boiler, one for your house circuit and one for your new garage heater with and injection pump from your primary loop.

Operate the garage pump 24/7 in the winter and have the injection pump duty cycled off of a line voltage stat that also calls the boiler on. This way everything is completely decoupled and can work independently without influencing the temperature of your house. So if you want to set back your garage and only turn it up when you're working it wont heat up your house and vice versa.

Also, a heads up, the reason for the constant circulation on the terminal heater is due to its low mass design, it is potentially possible to freeze the water if the garage door is open for an extended period of time without water movement. By keeping the water moving the likelyhood of it freezing reduces drastically.

Do not run this unit off of a Domestic water heater, tankless or tanked. The units is not designed for sanitary purposes nor will it hold up to constant circulation of oxygenated water.

Good luck

Way over complicating this whole issue. No need for all this.

 

[BigJ5]

Way over complicating this whole issue. No need for all this.

There are the people who do it right the first time and those that half *** it and redo it several times over....I'm the guy that does it right the first time. Who do you want to be?

Maybe you should check out something written by Siegenthaler, it could help you in the long run. Hydronics are simple, only if you understand their complexity.

Don't forget you do not want to shock the boiler with too low return temps. Spending a few hundred bucks extra to save a boiler and give you peace of mind with long term operation is good decision.

Good luck with whatever you do

 

[mygarageone]

There are the people who do it right the first time and those that half *** it and redo it several times over....I'm the guy that does it right the first time. Who do you want to be?

Maybe you should check out something written by Siegenthaler, it could help you in the long run. Hydronics are simple, only if you understand their complexity.

Don't forget you do not want to shock the boiler with too low return temps. Spending a few hundred bucks extra to save a boiler and give you peace of mind with long term operation is good decision.

Good luck with whatever you do

Hydronic's are simple if you understand it's complexity ? Oh brother do I need to learn some things.

 

[mygarageone]

Output will vary based on water temperature and pump flowrate, you could probably see up to 60,000 BTU/hr or more out of that kind of unit heater around 200F inlet temp at 4 GPM.

This is a ignorant statement, it,s a pic for reference , not the actual one .
You haven't a clue about the Btu rating from a pic and there is no way to blatenly give such advice.

Are you some kind of Engineer ? Have you ever done any field installations ?

What experience ?

 

[Motown 454]

Hi Guys I saw this Water Heater! ( For Radio Ron w4ron ) and it says it can be used for radiant heat. Does anyone know about this tank less water heater? Good or bad will help me.
As always thank you in advanced.
Wayne



The RA-28 is the most popular residential model for the whole house and for commercial applications, such as specialty restaurants, convenience stores, hotels, pet grooming shops. A perfect back-up to Solar and Geothermal passive heat recovery systems and a powerful replacement for boilers and storage tanks used in Hydronic heating and Radiant Floor heating systems. (Minimum 200 AMP Whole House Electrical Service recommended)

 

[Motown 454]

I just saw that its not UL listed for radiant heat.
I guess its a no go.