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hot water transfer pump...

dogdog

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Need to flush the steam boiler system that holds about 25 gallons water and a "hot" water heater. so water is hot dunno the temp. What transfer pump do you guys use.

Tried the HF one stainless steel, and 12V, works great until it seized when the temp got too hot. so probably not good for hot water.



the Milwaukee is rated only at 140F... not too sure if it will handle boiling temp water 212F.


only hot temp transfer pump is this wort transfer pump but slow probably weak, not sure if it will handle rusty water.

the other one is a recirculating pump, don't even know if this is appropriate for transfer pumping rusty hot water...

so what do you guys use other than a bucket and walking it to a drain up steps.
 
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Jim greengo

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Well that *****,what do you do if there's a leak or pop off valve opens?
Anyway,what about just shutting it down and letting water cool down before starting to pump it out?
 

mike93lx

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If you can't find a good option, maybe drain it into a bucket while tempering with a hose, then pump from that?
 
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dogdog

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Well that *****,what do you do if there's a leak or pop off valve opens?
Anyway,what about just shutting it down and letting water cool down before starting to pump it out?

Trying to do the work more efficient. I bucket them out so about 10 trips to flush out the boiler and water heater about the same.

Water heater wise
The good thing about this is that the safety valve is on top. So if it leaks. It will leak minimum once you turn off incoming water.
One of the reason I exercise that valve every year.
 
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dogdog

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If you can't find a good option, maybe drain it into a bucket while tempering with a hose, then pump from that?
Trying to find a good option. Yes that is what I am doing now except not pump just empty to bucket and carry to the closest drain

Taco have a pump for base board heating it will handle the temp but crazy over price now a days. 1/2 or 1 hp one
 
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dogdog

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Pressure bleed/drain via a hose?
Yes I can do that with the water heater, shut off output and leave input cold water and drain. if that is what you mean.

The boiler is steam boiler, would be hard. Normally for cast iron steam boilers, the sediment would be heavy and settle down on bottom, need to bring the water to boil or hot enough that it is moving, then drain, and refill. the first bucket or two would be heavy rust sludge... just from the pipes and the cast iron boiler chamber, I do both skim and drain then refill as well.. I am definitely sure I can't pressure bleed this thing.
 

fitter30

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I've always cleaned steam boilers with tsp poured through the relief valve opening or inspection cover fired boiler brought it up boil either turned it off or on larger boilers turn burner down. Keep the boiler hot for 2-4 hours. Then drained and fill three or four times running the water level higher. Add your treatment close it up. Tsp will clean any oil out of it. Squick a powered helps with boiler priming.
://www.silverkingmfg.com/squick.htm
 
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LopezBart

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Do you have enough pressure in the boiler to blow it out (obviously after turning off the fire :) ) ? You'll need a high temp hose....
This is how we blow out our boilers on steamboats... let the pressure drop to 20-30 psi, attach a steam hose to the blow-down valve and let 'er rip.
 
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dogdog

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Do you have enough pressure in the boiler to blow it out (obviously after turning off the fire :) ) ? You'll need a high temp hose....
This is how we blow out our boilers on steamboats... let the pressure drop to 20-30 psi, attach a steam hose to the blow-down valve and let 'er rip.
Surprisingly the run of the mill garden hose held up fine. Just trying to move the water more efficiently of cause. This is a low pressure steam generating boilers. Cuts-out at 5 psi and cuts-in at 3 psi is what I have set it. It’s a mechanical pressure-trol so the rust sometimes blocks the 1/4 pipe that the pressure-trol’s mechanical bellow need to rise to trip cut-in and cut-out one of the reason I have to flush every year. The water cutoff control also gets blocked.

So…. No tsp but it’s what ever comes with the bottle called boiler liquid…. Probably tsp inside.

Anyways trying to move those dirty hot water more efficiently. Do you guys know if a recirculating pump would work? Or is it not strong enough as a transfer pump.?
 
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dogdog

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I've always cleaned steam boilers with tsp poured through the relief valve opening or inspection cover fired boiler brought it up boil either turned it off or on larger boilers turn burner down. Keep the boiler hot for 2-4 hours. Then drained and fill three or four times running the water level higher. Add your treatment close it up. Tsp will clean any oil out of it. Squick a powered helps with boiler priming.
://www.silverkingmfg.com/squick.htm
Never known tsp was used, only used what ever comes from that $10 bottle from homedepot or lowes.
 

LopezBart

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Surprisingly the run of the mill garden hose held up fine. Just trying to move the water more efficiently of cause. This is a low pressure steam generating boilers. Cuts-out at 5 psi and cuts-in at 3 psi is what I have set it. It’s a mechanical pressure-trol so the rust sometimes blocks the 1/4 pipe that the pressure-trol’s mechanical bellow need to rise to trip cut-in and cut-out one of the reason I have to flush every year. The water cutoff control also gets blocked.

So…. No tsp but it’s what ever comes with the bottle called boiler liquid…. Probably tsp inside.

Anyways trying to move those dirty hot water more efficiently. Do you guys know if a recirculating pump would work? Or is it not strong enough as a transfer pump.?
A hydronic circ pump will do the job, but they're gonna cost some bucks:

If you pump it hot, it will flash into steam on exit.
 

fitter30

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If there's rust and corrosion there must be alot of makeup water from leaks bringing in oxygen. Are u blowing down the boiler should be done at a minimum once a week. Could get steel drum for blow down when cool then pump it out. Look at the submittal sheet. Sold by qts and gallons.
Rectorseal-68712-8-Way-Boiler-Water-Treatment?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlsGK9ZDYggMVvhKtBh0tdQxyEAQYAiABEgLZK_D_BwE
 
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dogdog

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If there's rust and corrosion there must be alot of makeup water from leaks bringing in oxygen. Are u blowing down the boiler should be done at a minimum once a week. Could get steel drum for blow down when cool then pump it out. Look at the submittal sheet. Sold by qts and gallons.
Rectorseal-68712-8-Way-Boiler-Water-Treatment?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=shopping_neutral&utm_campaign=Shopping_Neutral_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlsGK9ZDYggMVvhKtBh0tdQxyEAQYAiABEgLZK_D_BwE

I seriously thought it is just old pipes from 50+ years on some sections (its a 92 year old hose build 1929). That is another project need to be done, change out certain sections of pipping... been looking for a chain vise / tristand for a while on craigslist. Residental steam system are more of an open system at the radiators, they have a valve when steam pressure buils up, it close shut and normally are opened. Oxygen will always be in the pipes.

The boiler doesn't surge like it's having a lot of oil or rust, but once a year when I drain it, it does coat the lwco sensor and particularly blocks the pressur-trol... Thanks, I will order a case of 4 of these and give it a try.. I remember them used to sell at homedepot.....
 

fitter30

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Location
Peace Valley,mo
I seriously thought it is just old pipes from 50+ years on some sections (its a 92 year old hose build 1929). That is another project need to be done, change out certain sections of pipping... been looking for a chain vise / tristand for a while on craigslist.

The boiler doesn't surge like it's having a lot of oil or rust, but once a year when I drain it, it does coat the lwco sensor and particularly blocks the pressur-trol... Thanks, I will order a case of 4 of these and give it a try.. I remember them used to sell at homedepot.....
Pressure control piped with a pig tail above the water line? Guess u have a one pipe system condensate returns straight to the boiler.
 
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dogdog

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Pressure control piped with a pig tail above the water line? Guess u have a one pipe system condensate returns straight to the boiler.
Yes one pipe system. Water condensate down on the main line then branch off to a return line and feed back to the boiler from bottom, it’s a consider a one pipe system. The portion of the return line looks bad definitely pitted. One of the reason I have to make sure water change. Or I have to dissemble all the controls and wash off the clogged rust or dirts. I have been using the boiler system cleaner from homedepot will give that rectorseal a try. Maybe after I. Change out the pipes.
 

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dogdog

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Just a little update the hf transfer pump worked nice when the temp of water is only warm or hot not boiling. Did try it again and it flush and drain both boiler and water heater effortlessly.

IMG_2502.jpeg
 
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