House wrap on a pole building

[Nick in WI]

So I recently finished up building my pole building using RRBuildings YouTube videos as my guide (documented HERE). One thing he does is install house wrap on every building he constructs touting that it's not so much for water intrusion but primarily for wind infiltration. I always wondered how much air really got through steel siding but since it couldn't be added later I figured I'd listen to the expert and spend the $400. To be honest it was a real pain in the a** to install, especially without a lift, but seeing the house wrap puff up with even a light breeze made all the struggle worth it.



Unless you're planing to do spray foam I would highly recommend installing house wrap if you have any intentions of heating your building, particularly if you are doing separate wainscot panels like is so common these days.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Lots of res[ect for RRbuildings, but the BEST thing to do to prevent air infiltration is 1"-2" of spray foam. Yes, it will cost more, but it will work MUCH better at preventing infiltration adn geive you some insulation, even if you never add more.

 

[SALIV8]

If your doing spray foam my builder recommends wrap anyways. It makes panel replacement in the future easy. Otherwise it is a pita.

[this is what he stressed. I also have my pole bldg wrapped and love it but dont have spray foam.]

 

[mrpizza]

I wrapped and sprayed, had to replace a panel (wife hit it with the mower) and they had the panel swapped in 10 minutes. No wrap and that would have been near impossible

 

[Nick in WI]

Aside from the cost my biggest issue with spray foam is that it seems so permanent. I know there will come a day when I want to add a porch, or a leanto, or a window, or a door, or an addition and spray foam makes that exponentially more difficult. I guess I suffer from commitment issues lol.

I honestly never really considered spray foam and house wrap but that at least makes panel replacement possible.

 

[kj_mustang]

I think many people are saying it is hard to pull metal off spray foam without ever trying it themselves, just repeating internet rumors. I have not pulled a whole panel off but I had to repair a dent in the bottom of one panel on my build. It has CC spray foam applied direct to the panels. I unscrewed the screws at the bottom of the panel and easily peeled the panel back from the foam to do my repair. Its smooth metal, how good a grip do you think it can get?

 

[Toomanytools?]

I think many people are saying it is hard to pull metal off spray foam without ever trying it themselves, just repeating internet rumors. I have not pulled a whole panel off but I had to repair a dent in the bottom of one panel on my build. It has CC spray foam applied direct to the panels. I unscrewed the screws at the bottom of the panel and easily peeled the panel back from the foam to do my repair. Its smooth metal, how good a grip do you think it can get?

You speak the truth, most new metal is super smooth and painted. I have witnessed the same pulled a panel and was left with a ribbed impression of the panel.
I actually wrapped my whole building in OSB, then house wrap. I'm in a dusty windy location it has helped to keep the dust down a lot.

 

[mike93lx]

Lots of res[ect for RRbuildings, but the BEST thing to do to prevent air infiltration is 1"-2" of spray foam. Yes, it will cost more, but it will work MUCH better at preventing infiltration adn geive you some insulation, even if you never add more.

Comparing wrap to spray foam is silly. The cost difference is massive.

I don't think anyone would argue that foam is more effective

 

[Nick in WI]

I think many people are saying it is hard to pull metal off spray foam without ever trying it themselves, just repeating internet rumors. I have not pulled a whole panel off but I had to repair a dent in the bottom of one panel on my build. It has CC spray foam applied direct to the panels. I unscrewed the screws at the bottom of the panel and easily peeled the panel back from the foam to do my repair. Its smooth metal, how good a grip do you think it can get?

You are completely correct, I haven't done it and just assumed it would be difficult. Either way, like I said my reasoning was more for cost and the ease of making changes down the road.

 

[Bradbilt]

One of my main reasons for going with the spray foam is so the metal does Not sweat(then rust) the tyveck does not stop the sweating

 

[Nick in WI]

One of my main reasons for going with the spray foam is so the metal does Not sweat(then rust) the tyveck does not stop the sweating

I guess for now that could be a concern, although the coating on the inside is very similar to the coating on the outside so rust isn't a big concern of mine. Once the insulation and vapor barrier is up though there will be very little water vapor in the wall cavity to condense on the inside of the side steel.

 

[Bradbilt]

I guess for now that could be a concern, although the coating on the inside is very similar to the coating on the outside so rust isn't a big concern of mine. Once the insulation and vapor barrier is up though there will be very little water vapor in the wall cavity to condense on the inside of the side steel.

When it is wet all the time from condensation it will be a concern. ANY air gap will be a temp change and form condensation

 

[MrSurly]

I think many people are saying it is hard to pull metal off spray foam without ever trying it themselves, just repeating internet rumors. I have not pulled a whole panel off but I had to repair a dent in the bottom of one panel on my build. It has CC spray foam applied direct to the panels. I unscrewed the screws at the bottom of the panel and easily peeled the panel back from the foam to do my repair. Its smooth metal, how good a grip do you think it can get?

Yes, this is becoming a pet peeve of mine. I have a foamed building, direct-applied with both open and closed cell used in different areas. The irrational fear of permanence that is assumed and repeated is 100% baseless; this fear has its roots (imho) in false marketing claims by sellers of competing products and building systems. The claims seem to make sense so they grow legs as they get repeated *but never tested* across the internet.
I have had the occasion to remove metal from both open- and closed- cell and it is stupid-easy, in fact it’s easier on closed-cell than open-.
I was surprised actually because closed-cell is a more rigid foam so I expected difficulty. In fact, this makes it come away cleaner than the open-cell which can leave small bits of foam on the metal. The open-cell leaves only a slight fuzz on the removed metal and a perfect impression of the ribs in the bare foam. I would liken it to removing Velcro. The replacement metal (or the original ) will go right back in place, slick as can be.



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[Highbeam]

A lot of the myth is supported by people using cans of spray foam and getting a drip or blob on the floor or their fingers. It is very difficult to remove.

 

[astroracer]

My pole building was built with T-111 wood siding. I resided it in 2005. Before I did we wrapped it with Tyvek. The house wrap made a huge, HUGE, difference in the air infiltration. I recommend this to anyone who is putting up a pole barn.
Mark