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Household dimmer switch

vavet

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Mar 6, 2012
Messages
5,330
Location
Ashland, VA
Rental house bathroom…in one switch box are a dimmer for the lights and a timer for the fan. everything is 14 ga romex. House was built in 1994.
the box has the power coming in. It has 14/2 going to the light, it has 14/3 going to the fan with the red wire not used…not sure why 14/3 was used, perhaps it had a timer/light at some point and they were controlled separately.
it has another 14/2 that goes to the heated tile floor thermostat about 8 inches below the switch box.
all neutrals tied together in one wire nut.
all grounds tied together in a wire nut.
the fan timer switch was acting funny…had to press it in just the right way to get it to work. The dimmer switch was no problem.
I replaced the timer switch, wiring it the same way at the one that came out.
black to the incoming black.
white to all the other whites
red to the black going to the fan
ground to all the other grounds

i turned the breaker back on…the fan works, but the lights did not. The thermostat for the floor came back on. In addition, the kitchen lights (same circuit) also did not work.
I removed the dimmer switch to check nothing came loose. I thought maybe with the pushing of things back into the box that something came out of a wire nut. Nope, all wires still attached.
I disconnected the dimmer and hard wired the switch to the incoming power. Breaker back on….bathroom lights work, kitchen lights work. Fan works.
I wire the dimmer back in, but reverse the two leads between the load and line because there’s nothing to indicate it matters. Flip the breaker back on: the fan works, the bathroom lights kinda work…and the slider also dims the kitchen lights, but in an eerie flickering kind of way.

ive now bought a new dimmer switch, but haven’t tried to install it yet. everything was working fine before I replaced the timer. What is happening that the kitchen lights can be affected by this dimmer and how did replacing the timer start this?
I don’t know how the kitchen lights power is routed. It does not seem that the kitchen light power is run through the bathroom switch box based on the wire count. No other lights in the house seem to be affected.

my plan is to replace the dimmer temporarily with a on/ off switch just to see what happens.
both the timer and dimmer switches are Lutron brand with pigtails coming out of them. They do not have screw terminals like a conventional on/off switch.
 
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vavet

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Mar 6, 2012
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5,330
Location
Ashland, VA
Is the dimmer switch rated for the lights in use?
the dimmer switch has been there for 10+ years and was still working fine Until I replaced the timer.
I can’t answer your question directly as I no longer have any packaging for it. I can imagine that would be a concern with the lifespan it’s already lived. Could it?
 

sparky 1971

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Oct 9, 2018
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7,994
Location
Central Iowa
Take apart the connections for the incoming hot and neutral (black and white) and remake them by twisting the wires together with linesmans pliers before installing new wire nuts. I'd be willing to be that you have what around here we call a slipped joint and when everything is bent and shoved around just right, connection is made and everything works, move the connection around, and one wire loses it and everything goes haywire.

A bad dimmer for the bathroom lights wouldn't effect the kitchen lights.
 
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vavet

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Mar 6, 2012
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Ashland, VA
Take apart the connections for the incoming hot and neutral (black and white) and remake them by twisting the wires together with linesmans pliers before installing new wire nuts. I'd be willing to be that you have what around here we call a slipped joint and when everything is bent and shoved around just right, connection is made and everything works, move the connection around, and one wire loses it and everything goes haywire.

A bad dimmer for the bathroom lights wouldn't effect the kitchen lights.
Nailed it. The neutrals were loose.
im not entirely sure why the dimmer was affecting the kitchen lights, might’ve been coincidence with the neutral making and breaking contact as the dimmer switch was wiggling the wires just a bit.

I also figured out tonight that my assumption about which wire was which was wrong. I should’ve had my meter when I did it Sunday, but I thought it was going to be a simple remove and replace operation. I then went on to assume which wires was the incoming power line and which were the wires going to the light, fan, and heated floor thermostat. As it turns out the wire coming up from the bottom was the incoming power. The power must be run from the breaker box, down into the crawlspace, up the wall, into the heated floor thermostat, and then up the wall farther to the bathroom lights/ fan switch box, then up, over and down the other wall to the kitchen lights switch box.

I used wago nuts for the hot and neutral wires to increase my chances of making a good connection.
 

sparky 1971

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Oct 9, 2018
Messages
7,994
Location
Central Iowa
Nailed it. The neutrals were loose.
im not entirely sure why the dimmer was affecting the kitchen lights, might’ve been coincidence with the neutral making and breaking contact as the dimmer switch was wiggling the wires just a bit.

I also figured out tonight that my assumption about which wire was which was wrong. I should’ve had my meter when I did it Sunday, but I thought it was going to be a simple remove and replace operation. I then went on to assume which wires was the incoming power line and which were the wires going to the light, fan, and heated floor thermostat. As it turns out the wire coming up from the bottom was the incoming power. The power must be run from the breaker box, down into the crawlspace, up the wall, into the heated floor thermostat, and then up the wall farther to the bathroom lights/ fan switch box, then up, over and down the other wall to the kitchen lights switch box.

I used wago nuts for the hot and neutral wires to increase my chances of making a good connection.
I'm sure the Wago connections are fine, but it doesn't get any better than a pre-twisted connection with a good wire nut over it. I only use Wago's for fixture repair and conversions.
 

cybrdyke

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Sep 9, 2014
Messages
3,449
Location
USA
Dont choose or install dimmer switches until you determine what lighting you will be using in each space. When changing to LED lighting, not all dimmers are compatible with every LED fixture or lamp. Also, there are many dimmers that now require a neutral wire for proper installation. You may or may not have neutral wires available in your wall box. You should check for this before you buy anything.
Good luck,
CD
 

wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,067
Location
Modesto, CA
Dont choose or install dimmer switches until you determine what lighting you will be using in each space. When changing to LED lighting, not all dimmers are compatible with every LED fixture or lamp. Also, there are many dimmers that now require a neutral wire for proper installation. You may or may not have neutral wires available in your wall box. You should check for this before you buy anything.
Good luck,
CD
and then theres dimmers that only work with 10v dimmer control lighting... choose wisely
 
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